Mapping Morocco – Discovering Caravan Paths

Seven weeks in Africa, four weeks in Morocco! Yes, I am somewhat obsessed with Morocco and similar age-old raw countries! Roaming the countryside, I’m intrigued and fascinated seeing people living off the land as their ancestors did. Morocco never bores, always intrigues, and leaves you wanting more, once is not enough! Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent.

My Journey goals were planned: visit the newest hotels or riads in the booming Moroccan hospitality industry, discover additional ancient community ovens, many are still in use today; visit world heritage ksar sites and fortified graniers, also known as Igoudar. For lovers of historical heritage, multiple sites exist all over Morocco.

Plus meander the souks in search of specific antiquities, explore old gardens, and of course, dine at the newest and my best-loved restaurants! Every Journey to Marrakech includes a culinary escape to Amanjena’s spectacular grounds and the lovely Royal Mansour Le Jardin, a peaceful haven in the heart of the buzzy Ochre City with high end gastronomy! And finally, discover a true Luxury Sahara Camp!

The Journey with full posts to come! I explored a modified Camel Caravan Path in the fall. Many travelers assume they should arrive and visit Marrakech, while it is an exhilarating picturesque city, there are other paths, especially if you have visited Marrakech and think this is the only Moroccan destination! It is not, I’ve traversed Morocco several times, it’s my second home.

Morocco is on the top Travel lists; all the new hotels reflect this renaissance. The country has rebounded after the 2023 earthquake.

My path and a few of my discoveries: arrive Casablanca and mosey to the Four Seasons Casablanca – which has the best beds in the country, except for the Four Seasons Marrakech! Casablanca FS is a dry hotel, if you crave a cocktail, make reservations at Rick’s Café for dinner! I recently discovered the Four Seasons has a site for purchasing their dreamy beds!

A short three hour drive up the coast to see and stay at La Fiermontina, Ocean, isolated on the wild coast of Larache, it reminds me of an Aman type location. Discover the romantic suites and private villas with pools and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the rolling dunes. Al fresco lunch and continue north or spend a night and relish miles of beaches, relax at the sophisticated spa layered in elegant black and white marble and wander the small village. It’s a popular summer location for locals. I will stay next time, recover from the long flight with dune walks.

Drive to Tangier, stop in Asilah on the way to Tangier. It’s only 2 hours to Tangier, browse the seaside art colony in a leisurely afternoon.

New property, Villa Mabrouka, has recently opened. Transformed by the esteemed British designer Jasper Conran, once the secluded sanctuary of fashion legends Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Petite and private 12 room haven with sweeping views of the Strait of Gibraltar. Lush gardens with hush-hush niches for reading or snoozing; birdsong, and breezes at no extra charge.  Gardens of rare Mediterranean plants were designed by Madison Cox. Imagine a candlelight dinner in a charming vine covered stone gazebo on a cliff with views to die for. Walk to the nearby bustling Tangier Kasbah and medina, amble around the corner to yummy dining at famed El Morocco Club. Cozy, intimate seating upstairs or try the buzzy piano bar downstairs. Always say yes to the oysters! Tangier has an extensive list of private gardens, last winter I spent a delightful few hours meandering Umberto Pasti Rohuna Gardens.

Two points of interest and direction choices here. One: two nights in Tangier is a good first-time visit. If you haven’t wandered the famed Blue City, Chefchaouen, is 2 hours away – you must visit at least once in Morocco! Small riad with indoor pool in the middle of the medina is fine for one night.

Then onward to Fez which is four hours from Chefchaouen. I’ve visited the charming Blue City however, in our winter, it’s hard for me to say no to exploring a sunny beach, so it was onward from Tangier, where I spent three delicious days at the Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay. I’m a beach girl, any beach hotel with miles of sandy beach walking purrs a particular tune to me. An elegant all-villa hotel, this is the Hamptons of Morocco! Positioned between the rugged Rif mountains and the glistening Mediterranean Sea, the resort oozes authentic Moroccan style Villas with private pools. Full post coming soon on my delightful visit. An authentic Thai restaurant, Saffron, whose fun staff make every wish come true! Terrace dining on the edge of a bird filled estuary, the sapphire Mediterranean Sea is just beyond the bird pond. A huge infinity pool is plopped on the sand, soundtrack: lapping surf. Miles of beach for strolling or hire a pony for a gallop! Bikes at your door for an impromptu spin around the grounds or escape an off-road mountain bike excursion. The hotel is an extraordinary blend of romance and exotic Moroccan charm. I will be returning to Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay!

Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay

If you haven’t visited Fez, you must! It’s a slighter less hectic version of Marrakech. From Banyan Tree, a six-hour drive. Riad Fès is the only Palace Hotel. Must book the gorgeous suites far in advance and must enjoy sunset cocktails from the rooftop restaurant. I love three nights in Fez, its relaxed and gives you time to explore at leisure. Riad Fès combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fèz Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, salons, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.

Fez to the Sahara – an 8-hour drive – but quite scenic. Two nights in the luxury Sahara Tent camp – the quiet winter peacefulness is extraordinary, I’ve pretty much broken up with Camels after multiple experiences, but I’ve decided on my next Sahara visit, a sunset camel caravan might be worth exploring the sand dunes from the back of a camel.

And the night sky, you can practically scoop up the stars from the inky black sky. I would be happy here with a book for 2 days – active peeps can chose from multiple activities dune buggy excursions, camel crossing picnics at an oasis, or merely sit and stare at the endless horizon of untouched sand dunes. Colors change with each passing hour; drier air translates to more vivid color. Warm sunrise hues change dramatically to intense blue afternoon skies, and brilliant yellow, gold, and red hues illuminate the horizon as the sun slowly melts into the dunes.

The Sahara to Dar Ahlam, House of Dreams in Skoura – a not to be missed fantasy property… two nights at least for full immersion experience!

I carried onward to Marrakech, however, to shorten your sojourn, you can travel an hour to Ouarzazate and fly back to Casablanca for return home.

Adding on – Dar Ahlam to the Atlas Mountains Skoura to Mountains 4 – 4.5 hours to our favorite hotel properties Olinto or Kasbah Tamadot. There are only two Atlas Mountain options – very different in style, Kasbah Tamadot is a client favorite. Olinto is a completely unique experience, a respite from Marrakech, a peaceful sanctuary. New post to come on Olinto after enjoying my first restful stay..

Atlas Mountains – 90 mins to Marrakech and departure flights. I stayed in Marrakech for eight nights in multiple hotels, some new to me. I was particularly. Impressed with the Oberoi, I wasn’t prepared to love it as much as I did! I’ve stayed at Oberoi in India; they are gorgeous and quite over the top! Oberoi Marrakech is outside the city fray, a peaceful haven of private villas with plunge pools. It’s elegant, but not overdone. A peaceful oasis within minutes from the chaos that is Marrakech!

Then onward to one of my small favorites Dar al Hossoun – this is an area for deep ancient discoveries. For those who wish to move, the choice is vast: hikes, small taxis or carriages, visits to the souks, the tannery, discovery of “lost” valleys of the Upper or Anti-Altas, Berber villages… and visits of private houses and gardens .

Moving to the Atlantic Coast again, for me, a return to the beach near Agadir, to the Fairmont. I crave beach experiences and the Fairmont is the best hotel here. Amazing spa, miles of sandy beach, on a foggy twilight ramble, I spotted several camels, men in sapphire turbans beckoned me to join them for a camel adventure. There is an exotic tale everywhere in Morocco! Would you say yes?

Nearby, the ancient town of Agadir has a small laidback medina.  I discovered a new Italian built Agadir medina; the original city was mostly leveled by an earthquake in 1960. Architect Coco Polizzi, a Moroccan-Italian professional, developed a charming medina called Polizzi’s Medina, the buildings have a medieval look with many elements of traditional Moroccan architecture. Mud, wood, and stone, sourced nearby, make up the bulk of the structure. Strolling through the narrow courtyards of the medina, you’ll feel as if you’ve gone back in time, but the perfection that exudes from every corner suggests that it doesn’t date back several centuries.

Back to Marrakech for newer hotel and museum experiences…

My exceptional guide took me by the hand to the oldest Hammam in Marrakech, built in 1562.  Walking underground, he introduced me to the men who feed a hot fire all day and night to heat the huge water cauldrons which produce the steam in the hammam! I love that technology has not replaced these men; ancient culture is still in place in many locations if you know where to look! In the medina, a pile of wood and smoke usually lead to a community oven or here, to the underground caldron in the oldest hammam. Astonishing – a modern city which treasures its culture and history. Traditionally, the heat for the Moroccan hammam is provided by the farnatchi, the man in charge of tending the fire beneath the bathhouse that heats its floors and walls. Many women would bring a ceramic urn known as a tanjia of a beef stew to cook outside the fire all day – one of these pots was resting at the edge of the wood stove. Tanjia is the name of both the stew and the ceramic urn it’s cooked in. Traditionally, the earthen pots are taken by families to the communal furnace ovens inside the medina, which heat water for the local hammams.

Moving around the African continent with several 60 pound suitcases is not a vacation, people assume I am on vacation for seven weeks, au contraire! In Marrakech, I stayed at six different hotels. If I don’t stay, how can I advise a client, you will love it! I had read much about Beldi Country Club – the hotel souks are authentic and are brimming with lovely handmade Moroccan treasures. Plopped amidst stunning gardens, the large suites are well furnished, however, the concept of Country Club is not what we imply as a country club – it was the perfect location after 21 days of meandering; lounging and slumbering in 90-degree weather, absorbed in my book. There is no butler button for pool service or coffee delivered to bed – the pool time was delicious, but I need a teeny bit more service!

Never miss a stay or pool lunch at my brilliant friend Meryanne Loum-Martin’s, Jnane Tamsna property. If I don’t stay, I dine several times with her, we giggle and gossip and share travel gems – she knows everyone and everything! Her property is an enchanted garden of small villas, salons, pool, tennis courts and mesmerizing dining experiences. Plus a new Souk!

I’ve always thought I wanted to stay in the medina – two brief nights in a messy medina confirmed being in the middle will not cure my lack of direction! Mustapha gives me strict locations on where to stand when he is fetching me for day excursions…don’t stray from here or you will be lost! I do stray when he gets distracted…not allowed! In the tiny Taroudant medina, I strayed and unearthed enormous amber beads and a small metal box with bone inlay! I text: I’m in souk next door, come help me negotiate!

Clients love Villa des Orangers and with the newly added white marble and white linen shiny bright suites, I love it even more. This palace hotel makes me think I am in the medina, to find my sparkling suite, I memorized this passageway: from the pool, walk until you see the bowl of ostrich eggs in the distinctive green enamel Tamegroute urn, turn left, pass the sexy bar, left through an interior courtyard with pond, right at white stairway to my upper floor suite! Two heated pools, numerous salons for intimate cozy meals or story telling performances.

The Four Seasons in Marrakech is usually my go to last hotel – my glorious suite provides enough room to repack, sort my treasures, laundry done in hours, and I love the spa, pools, and dining – it’s where I regroup to return home or on this Journey, continue onward to Kenya and South Africa.

The best of Morocco can be discovered with our marvelous guides and fearless driver; these trusted companions with the tales of the complex medieval history, the final, if needed, bargaining point in the souks, a guide to tasting the best spices, finding vendors selling indigenous music, facilitating introductions in a small school in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, sourcing traditional Moroccan handicrafts, obtaining reservations in the best local restaurants and ultimately our VIP Client Liaison who is a resource for all needs while traveling to Morocco, we travel with these experts to make certain our clients will enjoy The VV Best Journey.

Unpacking List: It’s not the things you take with you that define your Journey; it’s the experiences you have and the memories you bring home.

Morocco Earthquake – Reminiscences and How to Help.

The aftermath of the September 8 earthquake in Morocco has flooded me with memories and contemplation of what this endearing country has meant to me over the last few years. My days since include connecting to my beloved hoteliers and our teams. Many colleagues were in Marrakech for an annual travel conference, they shared photos, locations for donating blood, providing updates on our favorite hotels in the Atlas Mountains, which seem to be the worst hit region at the epicenter. From Kasbah Tamadot, our clients love to hike through the Atlas Mountains with the locals and stop in villages for a meal. Spending a few hours in the surroundings of the High Atlas Mountains in a uniquely traditional way with one of the properties resident mules. Passing the eucalyptus and olive groves, the path takes a a gentle ascent into a nearby village with its traditional Berber homes. A great way to experience the local culture, the hotel staff come from these villages, the hardest hit area of the earthquake.

Ait Ben Haddou is a historic ighrem or ksar along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. It is considered a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. 

It has been a time of responding to the many clients who have reached out asking if Mustapha, our favorite VIP Client liaison is ok, is his family ok?  I’ve always known Mustapha was a gem, who finds champagne in the Sahara, is my usual anecdote of his many talents. When your clients reach out long after their Journeys, it’s a testament to the nature of our dear clients, and the caring people who manage our clients in foreign countries.

Mustapha Mum, me & Auntie under the fig tree

The outpouring of love and support has been heartwarming.

Many have asked how can we help? Mustapha’s home survived, his parents whose farm is in a small village in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, lost two rooms. I was welcomed into his parents’ humble home for tea, which translated to an impromptu feast of home-grown dates, walnuts, and mint tea. Mustapha thought it unusual that I was so excited to be included – Mustapha, no one invites me in for tea in Spain, France, etc.

Many of Morocco’s buildings and mosques date from the 12th Century, most of the small countryside villages we pass through don’t look as if they could withstand a drenching rain storm, let alone an earthquake of this magnitude. The ancient culture is what I find most compelling, age old tanneries in Fez still function as a part of their every day life. One of my favorite photos was taken near the Draa Valley, famous as the date basket of Morocco, two women hauling hay with their mules, their brick home looked precarious on the steep hillside. These are typical homes all over Morocco.

Moroccan people are warm, welcoming, and extremely generous, even more so in modest communities. Never say No to Tea and be prepared to be embraced and well fed!  One of the wait staff at Dar Ahlam walked me through his tiny village and took me to his home for tea. His wife and child spoke no English, and I no Arabic- but like the love fest with Mustapha’s mum and Auntie, we communicated.

Another chance encounter where I was warmly welcomed was a lunch visit at the glorious riad Jnane Tamsna owned and run by Merryanne Loum-Martin and her American husband Gary Martin. Within minutes of sharing our mutual friends, we were embraced as instant friends and lingered at their beautiful property for lunch, and I’ve subsequently spent impromptu days in Paris with Merryanne when the Moroccan borders were shut down during the pandemic and stayed at Jname Tamsna, their stunning oasis hotel property on the fringes of Marrakech.

How to help on a direct level?  Gary Martin, a cultural anthropologist, and ethnobotanist is founder of the Global Diversity Foundation. He was a lecturer in the School of Anthropology and Conservation at the University of Kent from 1998 to 2011 and a Fellow of the Rachel Carson Center for Environment and Society from 2010 to 2012. Twice a Fulbright scholar, Gary has a PhD in anthropology from the University of California, Berkeley, and an undergraduate degree in botany. His applied research and teaching on conservation and ethnobotany has taken him to more than 50 countries over the last 30 years.

Their hotel property Jnane Tamsna is 70 km from the epicenter, he mentions that the length and intensity felt worse than an 8.0 earthquake he lived through in Mexico in 1985. There is immense loss of life and livelihoods in the High Atlas villages where they work, especially in the Ouirgane Valley, from where they are receiving reports of many fatalities and homes destroyed.

Global Diversity Foundation has established a Morocco High Atlas Earthquake Relief Fund. Global Diversity Foundation, which has been working in the High Atlas for more than a decade, is directly assisting High Atlas communities. Given our deep ties with the region, we are working on the ground with our Moroccan partners to address the most urgent needs including emergency medical services, food, water, shelter, and transport. We are committed to continue our support to assist communities with their long-term recovery.

Over 2,000 lives have been lost and countless homes, shops and other buildings have been destroyed. Displaced people in High Atlas communities need urgent assistance including clothing, food, shelter, and water. Over the long term, these communities will need to rebuild their lives and livelihoods. The emergency needs will go on way after Marrakech does not make the headlines anymore. These emergency needs will then morph into rebuilding needs while being very active on conservation and green and sustainable means.

Global Diversity Foundation has supported resilience of traditional livelihoods in the High Atlas for over a decade. Once the urgent aid work is over, we will use funds to help families rebuild their homes, incorporating earthquake-resistant construction techniques, and re-establish their traditional ways of living and working. Our approach is community-led and prioritises their pressing needs over the coming months to ensure that people’s lives and livelihoods are rehabilitated as soon as possible.

Besides our local friends in Marrakech, World Central Kitchen is on the ground as well

The NY Times offers a list of options https://www.nytimes.com/…/how-to-help-victims-morocco…

Please Donate! Or better yet, Plan a Journey to Morocco, the Atlas Mountains area has been hit hard, but the remainder of the country is waiting for Travelers!