More Fever Dreams – VILLA FAYOUM Egypt

Egypt is still very busy despite the unrest in the Iran and surrounding areas. I am plotting a return visit over winter to see more of what I missed on my first Journey. My love of Morocco, which offers ancient architecture juxtaposed with modern life, iconic bustling souks, spices and traditional tea culture is mutual in Egypt. Both historically rich Northern Africa nations with vast Sahara Desert landscapes, similar vibrant Arab influenced culture and Muslim cultures. Warm hospitality is extended in both countries; I have always felt very safe traveling here.

You may have read my post on my upcoming visit to Al Moudira Hotel near Luxor. In reading and resourcing more of all that is Egypt, I’ve found another intriguing Oasis in Egypt! A sister hotel of Al Moudira in Fayoum.

A mere 2 hours from the chaos that is Cairo, discover a cool haven, peaceful and calm, the opposite of colorful Cairo. Fayoum is the largest oasis in Egypt and the closest to the Nile and to Cairo.  Lake Qarun was formed about 70,000 years ago when the Nile flooded the depression that now occupies the region of Fayoum. Today, the channels that connect it to the river feed the lake. Fayoum feels like an ancient village, another era. Walk through the open farmland, where you may meet farmers tending their land, water buffalos cooling in the irrigation channels, birds fly overhead calling and singing– the ancient rhythm hasn’t changed much over the centuries. Villagers travel by donkey carts, on horseback or in motorized tuk tuks. Tunis Village is an artistic and tranquil village in the Fayoum Oasis.

The oases have historically represented what was called “the garden of Egypt” and still today they produce a large quantity of fruit and vegetables, contributing to a particularly important percentage of the food needs of the whole of Egypt.

And where will I dream? In the charming Siwa Suite at Villa Fayoum! A magical villa in the heart of Fayoum, overlooking Qaroun Lake, where tranquility meets wonder!

VILLA FAYOUM sits in the midst of charming Tunis village just two hours South West of Cairo in Fayoum, nestled within a verdant 6000 sq meter garden. A historic 12-room villa surrounded by mature palms which shade a 16 meter golden granite and Sinai-marble pool cushioned amid abundant local flora.

There are views of the lake from the villa which, along with its adjacent houses, was sensitively restored using traditional materials and salvaged craftwork.  The villa’s interiors have also been imagined and designed by Al Moudira’s founder Zeina Aboukheir. They have the same rich and eclectic style Zeina is known for, featuring handpicked vintage textiles, art and antiques that come together effortlessly, layering different historic eras and creative global cultures.

And, as at their other property, Al Moudira, guests will eat well. The Moudira Farm Kitchen  Chef Gioconda Scott, has been brought to Villa Fayoum to craft menus and train local chefs.  Similar to Moudira’s style, ingredients will be provisioned locally. Born and raised in Andalucia, Gioconda first acquired her cooking skills assisting in the kitchen of Trasierra, her family home turned exclusive private hotel, and then studying in Italy. She worked with Argentine celebrity chef Francis Mallmann for over 4 years, running his Restaurant Garzon in Uruguay. If you haven’t dined at a Mallmann restaurant, another pilgrimage needs to be organized. Our good pals offer private experiences with the King of Fire! A true nature-to-table philosophy to life. The menus will shift with the seasons, expect delicious Middle East dishes that are simple, local, and full of character.

Tunis Village is famous for its pottery; you’ll find shop after shop with beautiful ceramics. This heritage craft began when the village was visited by a Swiss woman who lived here and began a small school to teach locals. You’ll find remnants of the potter Evelyne Porret who created an artistic hub in the 1980’s. The school led to a complete conversion to craft, and the village hosts more than twenty-five pottery workshops and showrooms, whose products are also sold in Cairo, London, and New York. Training generations of Egyptian artists, the town evolved into a contemporary pottery mecca, attracting many artists; walk through its narrow alleys decorated with abundant murals, the architecture mimics the small school that Evelyne Porret built. Whimsical glazed pottery can be found at galleries on the renamed Evelyne Street. Tucked away in Fayoum’s artistic heart, Skylark Art Gallery is a quiet gem for anyone who appreciates nature-inspired luxury. Other pottery shops with vibrant hand painted pottery and workshops line Evelyne Street near the village gate. Many famous writers, intellectuals, artists and architects visited and remained, thus was born the intellectual community that is now Tunis.

Tunis Village

Other local attractions: The Monastery of the Archangel Gabriel at Naqlun, located just 16 km southeast of Fayoum. Dating back to the 5th century, this peaceful desert retreat is still home to a small community of monks who follow centuries-old traditions. The monastery is known for its well-preserved frescoes, ancient wooden doors, and archaeological discoveries that have provided insight into early Christian life in Egypt. Visitors can explore the main church, admire its intricate carvings, and walk through the surrounding ruins of monastic cells.

Bird Watching. The lake is an important bird nesting area where thousands of migratory birds rest during their winter migration pattern, including large numbers of flamingos. Other birds that can easily be spotted in the area are kingfishers, egrets and larks, ducks, gulls, moorhens and many wintering waders at the western side of Lake Qarun. Little owls, kestrels and black winged kites are Fayoumi residents and easy to spot on palm trees or telegraph wires. Wintering Wanderers – My Love Language, like the birds…

Highly Recommend, Egypt!

Wax Room – a meditative cocoon. Dar Ahlam

Dar Ahlam “house of dreams’ near Skoura, Morocco. A hotel of fables and fanciful experiences. We walked through the dusty paths of the local village from Dar Ahlam to their newest Kasbah; the older Kasbah was destroyed in the earthquake. Although I missed the braying of the sheep and goats in their downstairs pens, the new Kasbah is a stunning replacement – with proper steps, in place of ancient wood ladders.

I was drawn by the scent, the fragrance of sweet pure wax to a delicious room that is completely walled in beeswax petals. The room smells extraordinary – like being inside a honeycomb of a beehive. A “room filled with stillness and creation,” where flowers are “transformed” into memory. It is a work that “extends time”.

This artistic endeavor is part of the hotel’s mission to offer guests a unique and poetic experience that immerses guests in local culture and heritage. At Dar Ahlam, art is not confined to a traditional gallery. It is integrated into the daily experience, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere for guests.

The wax room conjured memories of my Catholic upbringing and High Mass, beeswax candles symbolize purity and are a common part of worship. Often mixed with the fragrance of incense, typically frankincense; the smell of church, a scent steeped in centuries old traditions. Although, I don’t practice religion, I am drawn to cathedrals and I still light wax candles and whisper to my grandparents and parents. If there is a heaven, they know I haven’t forgotten them.

The Food Lab: Guided by artist and beekeeper Olivier Darné, the “Food Lab” is a living, evolving art space in the hotel’s garden. It doubles as a farm where traditional techniques are used to grow vegetables, herbs, and medicinal plants. The dishes served to their guests are inspired daily by a library of local flavors, mostly plant-based and, for the most part, grown right in the heart of the palm grove.

But today, Skoura faces a major climate challenge: a lack of water for crops. In response, they’ve deepened their commitment with the creation of a Food Lab, just a 10-minute walk from the main Kasbah.

This 2,000 meter plot is divided into around thirty sections for vegetables, aromatic herbs, and medicinal plants. Rooted in traditional farming techniques, they work hand in hand with local oasis farmers to explore methods better suited to drought conditions, helping ease the burden on local communities.

Guided by Olivier Darné, artist, beekeeper, and founder of the Parti Poétique collective, the Food Lab also carries an artistic mission: a living, evolving space where art is accessible and inspiring for all.

Highly Recommend – Dar Ahlam, Skoura