Join us for an Exclusive Journey in Marrakech, to the original home of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, Very few visitors are allowed in this private home, but we are! Last winter, an utterly serendipitous meeting in Morocco led me directly to the lacquered red door of the captivating owner, an American woman who owns the first home of YSL and his partner Pierre Bergé. I was giddy with excitement and enchanted after spending the morning sipping tea on a sun-filled terrace in the magical historic home. We are pen-pals and I hope to see her again in Marrakech or in the states. She is an absolute delight and a superb conversationalist.
Explore the first home of YSL, Dar el-Hanch, with our exceptional Moroccan team. It’s possible to meet the owner, it’s possible to spend a private morning sipping tea, it’s possible to organize a private sunset cocktail event or a decadent evening absorbing the energy of Yves Saint Laurent. We are thrilled to share this Exclusive Experience in Marrakech.
The Story. It’s well-known by fashionistas that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, lived in Morocco, enjoying many happy years in Marrakech and Tangier, leaving tangible homes and gardens infused with the dazzling style and color known to YSL.
In 1966, they arrived Marrakech and for many years, lived at the now famed La Mamounia before buying their first home. La Mamounia was a much humbler, yet slightly luxurious hotel at the time.
Marrakech was an inspiration, YSL was in lust with the colors, the light and the culture. He was raised in Algeria, and some say he was reminded of the Maghreb of his youth. Marrakech was a place to recharge his batteries, an exotic city with endless inspiration. He has been quoted: “Marrakech has opened me to colour.”
Our Exclusive Story. What most travelers are unaware of, is the story of their first modest home in Marrakech, Dar el-Hanch, Arabic for ‘House of the Serpent‘. Last winter, I had the serendipitous good fortune of spending half a day at this charming home in the Marrakech Medina with the current owner. She has lived here for years, with the original hand drawn and painted coiled serpent painting on the dining room wall, painted by YSL. A ubiquitous symbol in his work, in jewelry, note cards and fashion. The painted serpent is mesmerizing. Gardens infused with climbing vines, melodic fountains, exotic colorful tile terraces and staircases. Moroccan architecture reflecting the history of the country, even in this humble home, include open arches gazing down on colorful mosaic tile-work floors. Moroccan style isn’t lost at Dar el-Hanch, intricate patterned brick fireplaces, colorful tiled walls, a typical Moroccan home is centered around a center tiled or marbled courtyard. A cooling breeze floats through the top floor terrace, covered in blooming vines, stately palms feather in the neighbor gardens. Interior windows are framed with the intricate carved wood lattice panels, known as Mashrabiya screens, providing privacy and a cool breeze.
Dar el-Hanch, was unpretentiously furnished by YSL and Pierre Bergé. Yet it provided a true sense of liberation behind the high walls, a small garden filled with orange blossoms, flowering vines and towering palm trees. It became a meeting place of creatives: Andy Warhol, Mick and Bianca Jagger.
Make a YSL pilgrimage to Marrakech, visit the rarely open to the public, Dar el-Hanch and continue onward with a private guide for a tour of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The museum opened in 2017 to much fanfare, as the French designer regularly celebrated his love for Marrakech and the inspiration it gave his work.
You and your guide will then go next door for a tour of the famously blue Jardin Majorelle, a botanical fantasy designed by Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. It was given to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé by the city of Marrakech when they purchased Villa Oasis. The couple spent much of their time devotedly restoring the space, we can also arrange this as a private experience.
This colorful corner of Marrakech also includes the small but equally important, Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Celebrating the heritage of the original nomadic Moroccans.
Next, experience an exclusive, private visit to the exquisite retreat of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé: the Villa Oasis. The former home of the French expat artist Jacques Majorelle, Villa Oasis was acquired by the couple in the 1980s, and they spent part of every year at their treasured sanctuary until their deaths.
The villa interiors include pieces that Majorelle painted, as well as many traditional Moroccan elements such as hand painted tiled floors, coffered ceilings, and intricate stencil and metalwork and arched doors. The rooms are also home to an incredible private collection of books, paintings and works of art amassed by the couple over the years.
Linger on a hidden bench in the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle, a glamorous space decorated with rare plants in the iconic blues and yellows that are synonymous with YSL’s life in Marrakech. Surrounded by the soft reverberations of dribbling fountains and birdsong, we can arrange a private lunch in the garden for you and your friends. We may have other local professionals who can join and share their direct knowledge of this fascinating couple.
In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Bergé recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. Bergé awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. Photos of Dar el-Hanch are included in this beautiful book.
Seven weeks in Africa, four weeks in Morocco! Yes, I am somewhat obsessed with Morocco and similar age-old raw countries! Roaming the countryside, I’m intrigued and fascinated seeing people living off the land as their ancestors did. Morocco never bores, always intrigues, and leaves you wanting more, once is not enough! Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent.
My Journey goals were planned: visit the newest hotels or riads in the booming Moroccan hospitality industry, discover additional ancient community ovens, many are still in use today; visit world heritage ksar sites and fortified graniers, also known as Igoudar. For lovers of historical heritage, multiple sites exist all over Morocco.
Plus meander the souks in search of specific antiquities, explore old gardens, and of course, dine at the newest and my best-loved restaurants! Every Journey to Marrakech includes a culinary escape to Amanjena’s spectacular grounds and the lovely Royal Mansour Le Jardin, a peaceful haven in the heart of the buzzy Ochre City with high end gastronomy! And finally, discover a true Luxury Sahara Camp!
The Journey with full posts to come! I explored a modified Camel Caravan Path in the fall. Many travelers assume they should arrive and visit Marrakech, while it is an exhilarating picturesque city, there are other paths, especially if you have visited Marrakech and think this is the only Moroccan destination! It is not, I’ve traversed Morocco several times, it’s my second home.
Morocco is on the top Travel lists; all the new hotels reflect this renaissance. The country has rebounded after the 2023 earthquake.
My path and a few of my discoveries: arrive Casablanca and mosey to the Four Seasons Casablanca– which has the best beds in the country, except for the Four Seasons Marrakech! Casablanca FS is a dry hotel, if you crave a cocktail, make reservations at Rick’s Café for dinner! I recently discovered the Four Seasons has a site for purchasing their dreamy beds!
A short three hour drive up the coast to see and stay at La Fiermontina, Ocean, isolated on the wild coast of Larache, it reminds me of an Aman type location. Discover the romantic suites and private villas with pools and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the rolling dunes. Al fresco lunch and continue north or spend a night and relish miles of beaches, relax at the sophisticated spa layered in elegant black and white marble and wander the small village. It’s a popular summer location for locals. I will stay next time, recover from the long flight with dune walks.
La Fiermontina Ocean. LaracheLa Fiermontina Ocean. Larache
Drive to Tangier, stop in Asilah on the way to Tangier. It’s only 2 hours to Tangier, browse the seaside art colony in a leisurely afternoon.
New property, Villa Mabrouka, has recently opened. Transformed by the esteemed British designer Jasper Conran, once the secluded sanctuary of fashion legends Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Petite and private 12 room haven with sweeping views of the Strait of Gibraltar. Lush gardens with hush-hush niches for reading or snoozing; birdsong, and breezes at no extra charge. Gardens of rare Mediterranean plants were designed by Madison Cox. Imagine a candlelight dinner in a charming vine covered stone gazebo on a cliff with views to die for. Walk to the nearby bustling Tangier Kasbah and medina, amble around the corner to yummy dining at famed El Morocco Club. Cozy, intimate seating upstairs or try the buzzy piano bar downstairs. Always say yes to the oysters! Tangier has an extensive list of private gardens, last winter I spent a delightful few hours meandering Umberto Pasti Rohuna Gardens.
Two points of interest and direction choices here. One: two nights in Tangier is a good first-time visit. If you haven’t wandered the famed Blue City, Chefchaouen, is 2 hours away – you must visit at least once in Morocco! Small riad with indoor pool in the middle of the medina is fine for one night.
Then onward to Fez which is four hours from Chefchaouen. I’ve visited the charming Blue City however, in our winter, it’s hard for me to say no to exploring a sunny beach, so it was onward from Tangier, where I spent three delicious days at the Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay. I’m a beach girl, any beach hotel with miles of sandy beach walking purrs a particular tune to me. An elegant all-villa hotel, this is the Hamptons of Morocco! Positioned between the rugged Rif mountains and the glistening Mediterranean Sea, the resort oozes authentic Moroccan style Villas with private pools. Full post coming soon on my delightful visit. An authentic Thai restaurant, Saffron, whose fun staff make every wish come true! Terrace dining on the edge of a bird filled estuary, the sapphire Mediterranean Sea is just beyond the bird pond. A huge infinity pool is plopped on the sand, soundtrack: lapping surf. Miles of beach for strolling or hire a pony for a gallop! Bikes at your door for an impromptu spin around the grounds or escape an off-road mountain bike excursion. The hotel is an extraordinary blend of romance and exotic Moroccan charm. I will be returning to Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay!
Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay
If you haven’t visited Fez, you must! It’s a slighter less hectic version of Marrakech. From Banyan Tree, a six-hour drive. Riad Fès is the only Palace Hotel. Must book the gorgeous suites far in advance and must enjoy sunset cocktails from the rooftop restaurant. I love three nights in Fez, its relaxed and gives you time to explore at leisure. Riad Fès combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fèz Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, salons, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.
Fez to the Sahara – an 8-hour drive – but quite scenic. Two nights in the luxury Sahara Tent camp – the quiet winter peacefulness is extraordinary, I’ve pretty much broken up with Camels after multiple experiences, but I’ve decided on my next Sahara visit, a sunset camel caravan might be worth exploring the sand dunes from the back of a camel.
Sahara Luxury Tent Camp
And the night sky, you can practically scoop up the stars from the inky black sky. I would be happy here with a book for 2 days – active peeps can chose from multiple activities dune buggy excursions, camel crossing picnics at an oasis, or merely sit and stare at the endless horizon of untouched sand dunes. Colors change with each passing hour; drier air translates to more vivid color. Warm sunrise hues change dramatically to intense blue afternoon skies, and brilliant yellow, gold, and red hues illuminate the horizon as the sun slowly melts into the dunes.
The Sahara to Dar Ahlam, House of Dreams in Skoura – a not to be missed fantasy property… two nights at least for full immersion experience!
I carried onward to Marrakech, however, to shorten your sojourn, you can travel an hour to Ouarzazate and fly back to Casablanca for return home.
Adding on – Dar Ahlam to the Atlas Mountains Skoura to Mountains 4 – 4.5 hours to our favorite hotel properties Olinto or Kasbah Tamadot. There are only two Atlas Mountain options – very different in style, Kasbah Tamadot is a client favorite. Olinto is a completely unique experience, a respite from Marrakech, a peaceful sanctuary. New post to come on Olinto after enjoying my first restful stay..
Olinto, Morocco
Olinto, Morocco
Olinto, Morocco
Atlas Mountains – 90 mins to Marrakech and departure flights. I stayed in Marrakech for eight nights in multiple hotels, some new to me. I was particularly. Impressed with the Oberoi, I wasn’t prepared to love it as much as I did! I’ve stayed at Oberoi in India; they are gorgeous and quite over the top! Oberoi Marrakech is outside the city fray, a peaceful haven of private villas with plunge pools. It’s elegant, but not overdone. A peaceful oasis within minutes from the chaos that is Marrakech!
Then onward to one of my small favorites Dar al Hossoun – this is an area for deep ancient discoveries. For those who wish to move, the choice is vast: hikes, small taxis or carriages, visits to the souks, the tannery, discovery of “lost” valleys of the Upper or Anti-Altas, Berber villages… and visits of private houses and gardens .
Moving to the Atlantic Coast again, for me, a return to the beach near Agadir, to the Fairmont. I crave beach experiences and the Fairmont is the best hotel here. Amazing spa, miles of sandy beach, on a foggy twilight ramble, I spotted several camels, men in sapphire turbans beckoned me to join them for a camel adventure. There is an exotic tale everywhere in Morocco! Would you say yes?
Nearby, the ancient town of Agadir has a small laidback medina. I discovered a new Italian built Agadir medina; the original city was mostly leveled by an earthquake in 1960. Architect Coco Polizzi, a Moroccan-Italian professional, developed a charming medina called Polizzi’s Medina, the buildings have a medieval look with many elements of traditional Moroccan architecture. Mud, wood, and stone, sourced nearby, make up the bulk of the structure. Strolling through the narrow courtyards of the medina, you’ll feel as if you’ve gone back in time, but the perfection that exudes from every corner suggests that it doesn’t date back several centuries.
Agadir Medina Polizzi’s MedinaAgadir Beach
Back to Marrakech for newer hotel and museum experiences…
My exceptional guide took me by the hand to the oldest Hammam in Marrakech, built in 1562. Walking underground, he introduced me to the men who feed a hot fire all day and night to heat the huge water cauldrons which produce the steam in the hammam! I love that technology has not replaced these men; ancient culture is still in place in many locations if you know where to look! In the medina, a pile of wood and smoke usually lead to a community oven or here, to the underground caldron in the oldest hammam. Astonishing – a modern city which treasures its culture and history. Traditionally, the heat for the Moroccan hammam is provided by the farnatchi, the man in charge of tending the fire beneath the bathhouse that heats its floors and walls. Many women would bring a ceramic urn known as a tanjia of a beef stew to cook outside the fire all day – one of these pots was resting at the edge of the wood stove. Tanjia is the name of both the stew and the ceramic urn it’s cooked in. Traditionally, the earthen pots are taken by families to the communal furnace ovens inside the medina, which heat water for the local hammams.
Communal Oven
Oldest Marrakech Hammam heated by fire
Oldest Marrakech Hammam heated by fire
Moving around the African continent with several 60 pound suitcases is not a vacation, people assume I am on vacation for seven weeks, au contraire! In Marrakech, I stayed at six different hotels. If I don’t stay, how can I advise a client, you will love it! I had read much about Beldi Country Club – the hotel souks are authentic and are brimming with lovely handmade Moroccan treasures. Plopped amidst stunning gardens, the large suites are well furnished, however, the concept of Country Club is not what we imply as a country club – it was the perfect location after 21 days of meandering; lounging and slumbering in 90-degree weather, absorbed in my book. There is no butler button for pool service or coffee delivered to bed – the pool time was delicious, but I need a teeny bit more service!
Never miss a stay or pool lunch at my brilliant friend Meryanne Loum-Martin’s, Jnane Tamsnaproperty. If I don’t stay, I dine several times with her, we giggle and gossip and share travel gems – she knows everyone and everything! Her property is an enchanted garden of small villas, salons, pool, tennis courts and mesmerizing dining experiences. Plus a new Souk!
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna,Marrakech
I’ve always thought I wanted to stay in the medina – two brief nights in a messy medina confirmed being in the middle will not cure my lack of direction! Mustapha gives me strict locations on where to stand when he is fetching me for day excursions…don’t stray from here or you will be lost! I do stray when he gets distracted…not allowed! In the tiny Taroudant medina, I strayed and unearthed enormous amber beads and a small metal box with bone inlay! I text: I’m in souk next door, come help me negotiate!
Clients love Villa des Orangers and with the newly added white marble and white linen shiny bright suites, I love it even more. This palace hotel makes me think I am in the medina, to find my sparkling suite, I memorized this passageway: from the pool, walk until you see the bowl of ostrich eggs in the distinctive green enamel Tamegroute urn, turn left, pass the sexy bar, left through an interior courtyard with pond, right at white stairway to my upper floor suite! Two heated pools, numerous salons for intimate cozy meals or story telling performances.
Villa des Orangers Villa des Orangers Villa des Orangers
The Four Seasons in Marrakech is usually my go to last hotel – my glorious suite provides enough room to repack, sort my treasures, laundry done in hours, and I love the spa, pools, and dining – it’s where I regroup to return home or on this Journey, continue onward to Kenya and South Africa.
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
The best of Morocco can be discovered with our marvelous guides and fearless driver; these trusted companions with the tales of the complex medieval history, the final, if needed, bargaining point in the souks, a guide to tasting the best spices, finding vendors selling indigenous music, facilitating introductions in a small school in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, sourcing traditional Moroccan handicrafts, obtaining reservations in the best local restaurants and ultimately our VIP Client Liaison who is a resource for all needs while traveling to Morocco, we travel with these experts to make certain our clients will enjoy The VV Best Journey.
Unpacking List: It’s not the things you take with you that define your Journey; it’s the experiences you have and the memories you bring home.
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