One&Only, Portonovi – Seaside Sanctuary- Montenegro Jewel

Where the open waters of the Adriatic meet Montenegro’s Black Mountains, the sheltered haven of Boka Bay provides an idyllic setting for the first European property of the renowned resorts managed by One&Only.

A recent day spent at this resort reaffirmed my love of the One&Only brand of luxury resorts. The only resort of its kind in theMediterranean,  One&Only Portonovi is a portal into true escapism, with dramatic coastlines and quaint medieval towns of Herceg Novi, Perast and Kotor. It is the perfect hopscotch from visiting Dubrovnik and the seaside town of Kotor. Opening in 2021, barely an hour from Dubrovnik, it is a breathtaking stunner. Mountains of pine filled forests plunge to the clean clear water, beautifully preserved medieval UNESCO towns dot the shore and small islets with petite twin churches.  A modern take on Venetian architecture, pastel hued facades, plush interiors in all the rooms and suites. The grand lobby of Persian rugs sets the stage for the sweeping views of the royal blue bay.

One&Only Portonovi is a portal into true escapism, with dramatic coastlines and quaint medieval towns of Herceg Novi, Perast and Kotor. It is the perfect hopscotch from visiting Dubrovnik and the seaside town of Kotor. Opened in 2021, barely an hour from Dubrovnik, it is a breathtaking stunner. Mountains of pine filled forests plunge to the clean clear sea, beautifully preserved medieval UNESCO towns dot the shore and small islets with petite twin churches.  A modern take on Venetian architecture, pastel hued facades, plush interiors in all the rooms and suites. The grand lobby of Persian rugs sets the stage for the sweeping views of the royal blue bay.

I enjoyed a marvelous day at One&Only Portnovi in Montenegro. Plopped on the shores of the glistening Adriatic, this luxury seaside hotel is OTT glamorous!  Renowned for rejuvenating wellness in the hotel’s Chenot Espace medical spa, a capital D – Destination. Just a few moments with the spa director, I was convinced I need a month’s stay! Casual day spa or embark on a three-to-six-day program of health. High tech assessments with onsite team of doctors with treatments overseen with a Chenot diet.

This is Europe’s first One&Only. A luxurious seaside property offering multiple restaurants of casual and gourmet dining, a rare sandy beach with water sports, kayaks, SUP, water polo and volley ball. Outdoor pools, tennis, and a fun kids’ club. Experiences include private sailing or sleek Nesey speed boats cruising across the glistening Kotor Bay, wine tasting and sightseeing in medieval-walled Kotor town, the ancient submarine caves can also be visited. One of the best hidden attractions in the Bay of Kotor are the submarine tunnels near the village of Rose. There are 3 submarine tunnels in the Bay, and they are worth visiting.  The tunnels are fascinating piece of military heritage, and they are also a great place for swimming and snorkeling.

Rooms, suites and ten exclusive private Villas located on the waterfront complete with beach and some have private pools. One&Only Portonovi’s private villas undoubtedly offer the finest accommodation in Montenegro. Each expansive standalone villa is set in its own blooming garden with a private swimming pool, hydrotherapy pool, six massage stations, and incredible sunset views over the Adriatic Sea. Complemented with attentive, holistic service from a dedicated team of butlers and private chefs.Residences with three and four bedrooms. From Suite One, dramatic sea and mountain views unfold in a family magnificent suite, made for celebrations. Whether it’s al fresco dining on the terrace or a sophisticated soirée with family and friends, this oversized suite can comfortably seat 12, both indoors and out. With a dedicated lift, a separate private entrance, and a service lift for the butler, Suite One can be connected to neighboring rooms, becoming Suite Two or Suite Three.

Swimmers’ paradise: the Adriatic Sea along Croatia and Montenegro is one of the best places to swim in Europe, the Riviera of Montenegro. The water is crystal clear, warm in the summer, not too choppy, it is often sheltered and there are wind-protected places that can be found easily, especially when you have a boat. The Adriatic coast enjoys a Mediterranean climate of cool, rainy winters and hot, dry summers, think of at least a 5 to 7 day stay. This is the equivalent of Europe’s Mexican beaches, ultra-refined! Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor, hike the pristine forests.

By the pool, Tapasake Club serves contemporary pan-Asian tapas-style fusion cuisine and sake, and the largest lobsters I’ve ever seen! Lunch here was amazing with sweet Nadja Djordjevic, a dear who came in on Sunday to host me. The two significant dining emporiums are beachside Sabia, from Michelin- starred   Italian star Giorgio Locatelli, and Tapasake Club from former Nobu chef, Yannick Bayjoo. Too many choices for lunch, as typical with all our beloved hoteliers, our table was an abundance of fresh fish, spring rolls, fish tacos, and tall cocktails, all delicious!

Feet In Sand Dining: A starry night upon golden sand in one of the world’s most beautiful bays – it doesn’t get much better than this. Chef comes to you, craft the perfect menu and team serves your dinner under the stars!

Grateful to our fabulous Croatia Dream Team who arranged my land tours, and a One&Only speedboat for my return to port. What better finale, bouncing across Boka Bay on a blistering hot afternoon!

Highly Recommend!

PABLO NERUDA: AN ‘EXILE IN CAPRI’

Not everyone knows that Capri is also renowned as the ‘Island of exiles’. Emperor Tiberius came here to rule the Empire far from the influence of the Senate – which in turn construed the official representation of the Emperor as lascivious, depraved and violent.

The Roman historians Tacitus and Suetonius, who stood for the values of the old Republic and the role that the Senate played in the Republican age, were the first to construe such image. The ill-famed cliff where the Emperor’s villa is located, ‘Tiberius Leap’ (‘Salto di Tiberio’) is named after Suetonius’ story about Emperor Tiberius throwing his victims from the precipice.

Chilean writer and Nobel Prize Pablo Neruda was one of these prominent personalities. Neruda publicly denounced President Gabriel Gonzalez Videla for the violent repression of the miners’ uprising in 1947, many of whom were sent to concentration camps. Videla issued an arrest warrant against Neruda, who was then forced to go into exile.He came to Capri in 1952, where he wrote ‘The Captain’s verses – awarding him the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1971.

The Italian historian Edwin Cerio hosted him in his Villa in Via Tragara. Years later, in 1985, Neruda’s stay in Capri became the subject of Antonio Skarmeta’s novel ‘Ardiente Paciencia’ (‘Ardent Patience’, later known as ‘El cartero de Neruda’, or ‘Neruda’s Postman’). The novel has inspired Michael Redford’s moving film ‘Il Postino’, ‘The Postman’ – Italian actor Massimo Troisi interpreting the postman, and Philippe Noiret playing the role of Neruda.