Mapping Morocco – Discovering Caravan Paths

Seven weeks in Africa, four weeks in Morocco! Yes, I am somewhat obsessed with Morocco and similar age-old raw countries! Roaming the countryside, I’m intrigued and fascinated seeing people living off the land as their ancestors did. Morocco never bores, always intrigues, and leaves you wanting more, once is not enough! Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent.

My Journey goals were planned: visit the newest hotels or riads in the booming Moroccan hospitality industry, discover additional ancient community ovens, many are still in use today; visit world heritage ksar sites and fortified graniers, also known as Igoudar. For lovers of historical heritage, multiple sites exist all over Morocco.

Plus meander the souks in search of specific antiquities, explore old gardens, and of course, dine at the newest and my best-loved restaurants! Every Journey to Marrakech includes a culinary escape to Amanjena’s spectacular grounds and the lovely Royal Mansour Le Jardin, a peaceful haven in the heart of the buzzy Ochre City with high end gastronomy! And finally, discover a true Luxury Sahara Camp!

The Journey with full posts to come! I explored a modified Camel Caravan Path in the fall. Many travelers assume they should arrive and visit Marrakech, while it is an exhilarating picturesque city, there are other paths, especially if you have visited Marrakech and think this is the only Moroccan destination! It is not, I’ve traversed Morocco several times, it’s my second home.

Morocco is on the top Travel lists; all the new hotels reflect this renaissance. The country has rebounded after the 2023 earthquake.

My path and a few of my discoveries: arrive Casablanca and mosey to the Four Seasons Casablanca – which has the best beds in the country, except for the Four Seasons Marrakech! Casablanca FS is a dry hotel, if you crave a cocktail, make reservations at Rick’s Café for dinner! I recently discovered the Four Seasons has a site for purchasing their dreamy beds!

A short three hour drive up the coast to see and stay at La Fiermontina, Ocean, isolated on the wild coast of Larache, it reminds me of an Aman type location. Discover the romantic suites and private villas with pools and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the rolling dunes. Al fresco lunch and continue north or spend a night and relish miles of beaches, relax at the sophisticated spa layered in elegant black and white marble and wander the small village. It’s a popular summer location for locals. I will stay next time, recover from the long flight with dune walks.

Drive to Tangier, stop in Asilah on the way to Tangier. It’s only 2 hours to Tangier, browse the seaside art colony in a leisurely afternoon.

New property, Villa Mabrouka, has recently opened. Transformed by the esteemed British designer Jasper Conran, once the secluded sanctuary of fashion legends Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Petite and private 12 room haven with sweeping views of the Strait of Gibraltar. Lush gardens with hush-hush niches for reading or snoozing; birdsong, and breezes at no extra charge.  Gardens of rare Mediterranean plants were designed by Madison Cox. Imagine a candlelight dinner in a charming vine covered stone gazebo on a cliff with views to die for. Walk to the nearby bustling Tangier Kasbah and medina, amble around the corner to yummy dining at famed El Morocco Club. Cozy, intimate seating upstairs or try the buzzy piano bar downstairs. Always say yes to the oysters! Tangier has an extensive list of private gardens, last winter I spent a delightful few hours meandering Umberto Pasti Rohuna Gardens.

Two points of interest and direction choices here. One: two nights in Tangier is a good first-time visit. If you haven’t wandered the famed Blue City, Chefchaouen, is 2 hours away – you must visit at least once in Morocco! Small riad with indoor pool in the middle of the medina is fine for one night.

Then onward to Fez which is four hours from Chefchaouen. I’ve visited the charming Blue City however, in our winter, it’s hard for me to say no to exploring a sunny beach, so it was onward from Tangier, where I spent three delicious days at the Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay. I’m a beach girl, any beach hotel with miles of sandy beach walking purrs a particular tune to me. An elegant all-villa hotel, this is the Hamptons of Morocco! Positioned between the rugged Rif mountains and the glistening Mediterranean Sea, the resort oozes authentic Moroccan style Villas with private pools. Full post coming soon on my delightful visit. An authentic Thai restaurant, Saffron, whose fun staff make every wish come true! Terrace dining on the edge of a bird filled estuary, the sapphire Mediterranean Sea is just beyond the bird pond. A huge infinity pool is plopped on the sand, soundtrack: lapping surf. Miles of beach for strolling or hire a pony for a gallop! Bikes at your door for an impromptu spin around the grounds or escape an off-road mountain bike excursion. The hotel is an extraordinary blend of romance and exotic Moroccan charm. I will be returning to Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay!

Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay

If you haven’t visited Fez, you must! It’s a slighter less hectic version of Marrakech. From Banyan Tree, a six-hour drive. Riad Fès is the only Palace Hotel. Must book the gorgeous suites far in advance and must enjoy sunset cocktails from the rooftop restaurant. I love three nights in Fez, its relaxed and gives you time to explore at leisure. Riad Fès combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fèz Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, salons, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.

Fez to the Sahara – an 8-hour drive – but quite scenic. Two nights in the luxury Sahara Tent camp – the quiet winter peacefulness is extraordinary, I’ve pretty much broken up with Camels after multiple experiences, but I’ve decided on my next Sahara visit, a sunset camel caravan might be worth exploring the sand dunes from the back of a camel.

And the night sky, you can practically scoop up the stars from the inky black sky. I would be happy here with a book for 2 days – active peeps can chose from multiple activities dune buggy excursions, camel crossing picnics at an oasis, or merely sit and stare at the endless horizon of untouched sand dunes. Colors change with each passing hour; drier air translates to more vivid color. Warm sunrise hues change dramatically to intense blue afternoon skies, and brilliant yellow, gold, and red hues illuminate the horizon as the sun slowly melts into the dunes.

The Sahara to Dar Ahlam, House of Dreams in Skoura – a not to be missed fantasy property… two nights at least for full immersion experience!

I carried onward to Marrakech, however, to shorten your sojourn, you can travel an hour to Ouarzazate and fly back to Casablanca for return home.

Adding on – Dar Ahlam to the Atlas Mountains Skoura to Mountains 4 – 4.5 hours to our favorite hotel properties Olinto or Kasbah Tamadot. There are only two Atlas Mountain options – very different in style, Kasbah Tamadot is a client favorite. Olinto is a completely unique experience, a respite from Marrakech, a peaceful sanctuary. New post to come on Olinto after enjoying my first restful stay..

Atlas Mountains – 90 mins to Marrakech and departure flights. I stayed in Marrakech for eight nights in multiple hotels, some new to me. I was particularly. Impressed with the Oberoi, I wasn’t prepared to love it as much as I did! I’ve stayed at Oberoi in India; they are gorgeous and quite over the top! Oberoi Marrakech is outside the city fray, a peaceful haven of private villas with plunge pools. It’s elegant, but not overdone. A peaceful oasis within minutes from the chaos that is Marrakech!

Then onward to one of my small favorites Dar al Hossoun – this is an area for deep ancient discoveries. For those who wish to move, the choice is vast: hikes, small taxis or carriages, visits to the souks, the tannery, discovery of “lost” valleys of the Upper or Anti-Altas, Berber villages… and visits of private houses and gardens .

Moving to the Atlantic Coast again, for me, a return to the beach near Agadir, to the Fairmont. I crave beach experiences and the Fairmont is the best hotel here. Amazing spa, miles of sandy beach, on a foggy twilight ramble, I spotted several camels, men in sapphire turbans beckoned me to join them for a camel adventure. There is an exotic tale everywhere in Morocco! Would you say yes?

Nearby, the ancient town of Agadir has a small laidback medina.  I discovered a new Italian built Agadir medina; the original city was mostly leveled by an earthquake in 1960. Architect Coco Polizzi, a Moroccan-Italian professional, developed a charming medina called Polizzi’s Medina, the buildings have a medieval look with many elements of traditional Moroccan architecture. Mud, wood, and stone, sourced nearby, make up the bulk of the structure. Strolling through the narrow courtyards of the medina, you’ll feel as if you’ve gone back in time, but the perfection that exudes from every corner suggests that it doesn’t date back several centuries.

Back to Marrakech for newer hotel and museum experiences…

My exceptional guide took me by the hand to the oldest Hammam in Marrakech, built in 1562.  Walking underground, he introduced me to the men who feed a hot fire all day and night to heat the huge water cauldrons which produce the steam in the hammam! I love that technology has not replaced these men; ancient culture is still in place in many locations if you know where to look! In the medina, a pile of wood and smoke usually lead to a community oven or here, to the underground caldron in the oldest hammam. Astonishing – a modern city which treasures its culture and history. Traditionally, the heat for the Moroccan hammam is provided by the farnatchi, the man in charge of tending the fire beneath the bathhouse that heats its floors and walls. Many women would bring a ceramic urn known as a tanjia of a beef stew to cook outside the fire all day – one of these pots was resting at the edge of the wood stove. Tanjia is the name of both the stew and the ceramic urn it’s cooked in. Traditionally, the earthen pots are taken by families to the communal furnace ovens inside the medina, which heat water for the local hammams.

Moving around the African continent with several 60 pound suitcases is not a vacation, people assume I am on vacation for seven weeks, au contraire! In Marrakech, I stayed at six different hotels. If I don’t stay, how can I advise a client, you will love it! I had read much about Beldi Country Club – the hotel souks are authentic and are brimming with lovely handmade Moroccan treasures. Plopped amidst stunning gardens, the large suites are well furnished, however, the concept of Country Club is not what we imply as a country club – it was the perfect location after 21 days of meandering; lounging and slumbering in 90-degree weather, absorbed in my book. There is no butler button for pool service or coffee delivered to bed – the pool time was delicious, but I need a teeny bit more service!

Never miss a stay or pool lunch at my brilliant friend Meryanne Loum-Martin’s, Jnane Tamsna property. If I don’t stay, I dine several times with her, we giggle and gossip and share travel gems – she knows everyone and everything! Her property is an enchanted garden of small villas, salons, pool, tennis courts and mesmerizing dining experiences. Plus a new Souk!

I’ve always thought I wanted to stay in the medina – two brief nights in a messy medina confirmed being in the middle will not cure my lack of direction! Mustapha gives me strict locations on where to stand when he is fetching me for day excursions…don’t stray from here or you will be lost! I do stray when he gets distracted…not allowed! In the tiny Taroudant medina, I strayed and unearthed enormous amber beads and a small metal box with bone inlay! I text: I’m in souk next door, come help me negotiate!

Clients love Villa des Orangers and with the newly added white marble and white linen shiny bright suites, I love it even more. This palace hotel makes me think I am in the medina, to find my sparkling suite, I memorized this passageway: from the pool, walk until you see the bowl of ostrich eggs in the distinctive green enamel Tamegroute urn, turn left, pass the sexy bar, left through an interior courtyard with pond, right at white stairway to my upper floor suite! Two heated pools, numerous salons for intimate cozy meals or story telling performances.

The Four Seasons in Marrakech is usually my go to last hotel – my glorious suite provides enough room to repack, sort my treasures, laundry done in hours, and I love the spa, pools, and dining – it’s where I regroup to return home or on this Journey, continue onward to Kenya and South Africa.

The best of Morocco can be discovered with our marvelous guides and fearless driver; these trusted companions with the tales of the complex medieval history, the final, if needed, bargaining point in the souks, a guide to tasting the best spices, finding vendors selling indigenous music, facilitating introductions in a small school in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, sourcing traditional Moroccan handicrafts, obtaining reservations in the best local restaurants and ultimately our VIP Client Liaison who is a resource for all needs while traveling to Morocco, we travel with these experts to make certain our clients will enjoy The VV Best Journey.

Unpacking List: It’s not the things you take with you that define your Journey; it’s the experiences you have and the memories you bring home.

Nomadic Lifestyle – Luxury in Morocco

Look for me here, my Nomadic cravings for Morocco will soon be realized. Always on the move, just as a desert camel roams, I will be exploring the finest hotels and experiences to share with our clients. Searching for wide open spaces, places to breathe and roam freely – Morocco is the destination!

Imperial Suite Ocean room with bed, corner windows with Atlantic Ocean views
Four Seasons Casablanca
White lounge chairs around outdoor swimming pool, tropical plants
Four Seasons, Casablanca

Looking forward to my epic adventure across Morocco, beginning on the Atlantic Coast of Tangier and leisurely making my way across Central Morocco to the Atlas Mountains and Marrakech. The spine of Morocco, separating the Atlantic from the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains soar up to the snowy summit of Mount Toubkal, and comprise the High, Middle and Anti-Atlas. 

This Journey can be designed for culture and art aficionados, photography bugs, and hikers – to include day treks in untouched wilderness, this is more than souks and the Sahara. Mountain biking has become more and more popular in small groups, take on the cols and gorges in the High Atlas Mountains. Pedal through the cedar forests of Ifrane National Park. Water sports can be enjoyed on the El Abid River and falls provide the perfect location for canyoning and walking the gorges. Morocco offers something for every desire. The Four Seasons Casablanca will catch me on arrival before I mosey out the next day. Begin with a fine hotel in a city and move toward the vast deserts with endless horizons.

Tangier, Morocco

In the heart of the Kasbah on the highest point of the Medina of Tangier with panoramic views across the Straits of Gibraltar you will find the little gem property La Tangerina. La Tangerina has a real feeling of inner sanctum yet you are just yards from the souk and a short walk from the port and seafront.

La Tangerina

Typical to my travel, I stay at multiple hotels, seeing glossy photos online is not quite the same as bed hopping, visiting spas, ordering meals – it truly is an experience which a website nor a brochure provide. And there is a hotel for every taste, our unique fingerprints are indicative of our individual must haves in a hotel.

The distinctive soundscape of the five times daily call to prayer, adhan, will echo throughout the cities and villages.  Tangier, a white-walled city perched between Morocco and Europe, was long a haven for the literary and artistic avant-garde—and black sheep—of Europe and America. Poets, artists, and lovers have wandered the streets, enhanced the villas, and designed the hidden gardens for eons. Rohuna, Umberto Pasti’s horticultural paradise will be my first morning expedition in Tangier; capturing stunning vistas and verdant fields, Rohuna, was twenty years in the making mingling spectacular views and cultivated gardens and outdoor rooms within the vast garden. The Spirit of Eden, A Garden in Northern Morocco by Umberto Pasti  was published in October by Rizzoli.

Eden Revisited: A Garden in Northern Morocco: Pasti, Umberto, Ngo, Ngoc  Minh, Sartogo, Martina Mondadori: 9780847864805: Amazon.com: Books

Wake up to Tangier, then on to Chefchaouen, the ancient blue city known for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town. The Blue Pearl of Morocco. Leather and weaving workshops line its steep cobbled lanes. In the shady main square of Place Outa el Hammam the red-walled Kasbah, a 15th-century fortress and dungeon.

Chaouen Morocco - panoramio (12).jpg
Chefchaouen Photo by Hiroki Ogawa

Stopping in the ancient city of Fes, absorbing the rich culture along the way. The overland Journey continues onward to Riad Fes, a Relais & Chateaux property, luxury within the riad, a proper five-star hotel composed of five noble houses interconnected by marble staircases and dimly lit candlelit corridors.  The property is situated amid a private walled in garden off the maze of narrow streets, 13th Century buildings and busy markets. Fez, founded in the 9th Century, is Morocco’s best preserved old royal city. Donkeys and mules are commonly used for transportation in the old city’s maze of narrow streets.

Riad Fes combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad Fès reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fès Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, smoking-rooms, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.

Riad Fes is renowned for luxury, dining, and refined service.  Guests enjoy the splendor of the ancient noble Fes families, in a one thousand-and one-nights Andalusian-style atmosphere.

I’m looking forward to a sunset aperitif on the roof top with the ethereal muezzin call to prayer in the background. The panoramic view of the Fez medina and the Atlas Mountains on the horizon.

After three days exploring Fez, I will continue my Journey, my private driver, Mustapha, is with me for the duration of this overland expedition!  With a stop at Sahara Desert Luxury Camp, under the jet-black star-studded skies, nights are spent around a bonfire, entertainment provided by local nomads swaying to traditional music.  At night, glamping in a luxury tent with a magnificent blend of a traditional Moroccan style and contemporary decor.

Two nights at Dar Ahlam. On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Located in Skoura, a charming remote traditional Berber village in the South on Morocco – Province of Ouarzazate, away from the touristic paths. Terracotta colored stone meets sapphire skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty. Activities are created by the visionary founder Thierry Teyssie, Dar Ahlam, which more than lives up to its Arabic translation as the ‘House of Dreams’. Bringing a sense of showmanship learned during his days as a French actor to his Moroccan Kasbah, all the world’s a stage for Thierry when it comes to creating unique experiences for his guests. Can’t wait to see what his dreams produce for my stay!

The décor changes with the seasons, sumptuous fabrics and colors bringing the environment to life. Days at Dar Ahlam are long and luxurious. Without the distractions of television and technology, you can really unwind. Instead, indulge in a massage under the olive trees or head off for refreshments by the river. Spend a balmy evening atop the Kasbah, aperitif in hand, before feasting on a freshly prepared supper under the vast sky. Meals are served in surprise locations; activities are designed around your tastes and delightful diversions are typically offered daily to each guest.

Exotic and exhilarating, Berber culture has its oldest roots in the Atlas Mountains. Follow my path to the award-winning Kasbah Tamadot. Sir Richard Branson’s stunning retreat nestled in Morocco’s beautiful Atlas Mountains.

Divided into the three sections, the High Atlas in central Morocco, south of Marrakech, are home to Mt. Toubkal and the eponymous national park, the highest peak in North Africa. These drop down to the lower peaks of the Anti-Atlas further south, where you can hike to peaks such as Jebel Aklim with spectacular views across to the highest in the north. The Middle Atlas in the far northwest are the backdrop for Fez and Meknes, more set up for day trips than full on mountain immersion.

One common denominator, all the mountain ranges have in common: The Berber people. Berbers are a welcoming people with strong traditions, it’s more than dates and rosewater. Traditional subsistence farming is the norm in the Atlas Mountains, with small farms producing nuts and fruits, local sheep and goat herders can be seen along the roads.

And eventually reaching Marrakech to explore luxury hotels and charming riads in the medina. On the way, a brief escape to the coast, to Essaouira, and another lovely Relais & Chateaux property, L’Heure Bleue.

Heure Bleue Palais, Essouira

Situated on the Atlantic coast 2.5hrs from Marrakech is the laid-back fishing village of Essouira, famous for its Gnaoua music and artistic scene.  Many local and foreign artists have settled here continuing the vibe that attracted visitors such as Jimmy Hendrix and Cat Stevens (Yousuf Islam) in the 1960’s.

Once an old Portuguese fishing village, Essouira is a perfect place for those who wish to wander the souks for wooden carvings that it is famous for, to stop and enjoy fresh seafood and local wine while watching the fishermen come in with their daily catch.  For a more active alternative the kite and board surfing is excellent here and there is horse riding, camel riding and golf available. 

Hotel
Heure Bleue Palais, Essouira

Along the path, I will visit a rare Moroccan winery, as you know, a Muslim country does not indulge in spirits. The Val d’Argan winery, which is nestled in a valley between the sea and inland plain, the Val d’Argan area benefits from the mixed climate of ocean breeze and Saharan heat, producing wines with unexpected flavors. The 30ha property includes olive and Argan trees, from which the domain has taken its name. These trees grow only in Morocco and yield an olive-like fruit. The estate also produces Argan oil.

The Heure Bleue Palais is not an ordinary hotel, it is a house steeped in history but also men and women serving their guests. Like a pearl in an exceptional setting, the Heure Bleue Palais welcomes you in Essaouira. At the heart of the bay of the ancient Mogador, this palace has for word of order the well-being of its guests. The Blue Hour Palace lives in the heart of Essaouira and its Medina World Heritage Site by Unesco. Heure Bleue Palais has an extraordinary location: at the gates of the historic old city known as the Medina, the hotel is also just minutes away from the beach and surrounds of the city. 

hotel
Heure Bleue Palais Premium Suite

For many years the main square, streets and lanes of the Medina come alive with Essaouira’s calendar of musical festivals, including the Gnaoua & World Music festival, the Alizés musicale and the Andalusies Atlantiques festival. 

Hotel

It’s time to dream again, borders are open, boosters are available, the world is anxious to welcome travelers and we are excited to begin curating Journeys again for our dear clients! Several epic Journeys are in planning stages, time to escape!

“To get away from one’s working environment is, in a sense, to get away from one’s self; and this is often the chief advantage of travel and change.” ~Charles Horton Cool