Morocco beyond Marrakesh Nomadic Escape

Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent, its soul lies in the cradle of its North African coastal home. A historically independent nation, it has always been a multi-cultural ancient crossroad for trade, ideas, and migratory people. There is a rhythm and beauty and an ethereal light, its charms have wooed travelers, poets, and artists, inspiring some of them to never leave. Kandinsky, Matisse, and Renoir were pleased by its evocative temptations. A heady mix of the Orient, Arabian nights, and Muslim influences.

Le Sultan du Maroc by Eugène Delacroix in Tangier

The imperial cities of Marrakesh, Rabat, Fez and Meknes offer innumerable architectural buildings left by former rulers. An enchanting country, a favorite of mine and our clients for many, many years. Besides intimate city exploration, we can include authentic desert tents along with dauntless camels to scale the dunes at sunset and sunrise…let your imagination be boundless! From the desolate deserts to domed mosques, splendid imperial palaces and tombs, the impressive tranquil Atlas Mountains, where the rich and colorful Berber culture beguiles every visitor. Morocco is truly an enticing destination. You will hear the call to prayer, Adhan, one of the finest resonances in Morocco, which takes places five times a day. Recited or sung by a muezzin at prescribed times of the day. The root of the word is ʾadhina أَذِنَ meaning “to listen’. The beauty of the call lies in its melody reverberating from the mosque minarets in the still of night or the chaos of the day. I’m captivated by it. Why not practice being quiet five times a day and be grateful for life? https://www.middleeasteye.net/discover/adhan-muslim-call-prayer-melodies-maqams

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Chefchaouen, Morocco

To truly explore, allow three weeks for a deep immersion, less time would focus on several cities and a sojourn in the Atlas Mountains. A thumbnail look at a longer Journey, follow me in autumn when I return to this charmed country of colorful souks, the melodious call to prayer and a visit to the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, where women are allowed to visit. Although it is only the 7th largest mosque in the world, Hassan II claims the title of having the largest minaret in the world. Capped with a spotlight that shines east towards Mecca, the minaret is 700-feet tall, towering above the Atlantic Ocean. 

Southern Morocco is a land of tales and legends. Khamilia home of ancient Gnawa tribe where you can stay and sing with these magicians by the fireplace, the road of the ancient Kasbahs, the Drâa Valley, Tamegrouote and its ancient library counting books from the 14th century brought by pilgrims, the dry lake of Iriki.

Tangier, Morocco

Moroccan cuisine has gained massive followers among food connoisseurs. Staples of most meals include lamb, fish, and fowl, including pigeon, which is considered a delicacy when baked in pastry, the b’stillah is a national favorite. Vegetables including tomatoes, eggplants and onions are typically served with the well known and loved couscous. Bread, or Khob, as in many Middle Eastern and North African countries is considered a deep cultural symbol as well as a daily staple. Crusty, round flattish loaves are often baked on a girdle over an open flame or earthen ovens.  Mint tea is served everywhere in dainty tulip glasses.

An ancient Moroccan proverb: “manage with bread and butter until God sends honey”.

Moroccan woman making Bread or Khob,

Home to Morocco’s primary international airport, Casablanca is the main gateway into the country for many visitors and often their first taste of the country. This city is an industry and business powerhouse and compared to the exotic charms of Marrakesh and Fez, it can’t compete. There is a European touch to much of its architecture, and the city has a modern swagger that is unseen in other parts of the country.

Although Casablanca’s tourist sights and attractions may not be as obvious as those elsewhere, you will find some gems if you dig a little deeper. The medina quarter is a charming area and much smaller and easier to navigate than those elsewhere. And the colossal Hassan II Mosque is top of the list on most sightseeing checklists. For film buffs, there is nothing more synonymous with this city than the 1942 cinematic classic Casablanca. Apart from Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, the movie’s real star was Rick’s Café, where much of the action took place.

TGV to Tangier and Chefchaouen. Tangier has long been romanticized by artists, writers, and esoteric Beat poets, who arrived at its lively shores chasing escapades. On the Northern tip of Morocco, Tangier, an ancient white walled seaside city is the crossroads to Europe.  In the 1920’s to the 1950’s it was long known as a haven to bohemian artists and an avant-garde literary community. Known for its brightly tiled interiors and in particular, a rambling estate garden of legendary Italian horticulturist and writer Umberto Pasti and his celebrated garden Rohuna. Like Matisse and Delacroix before you, wander through streets lined with whitewashed houses and allow yourself to be transported by the dreamy atmosphere of the city. With wide boulevards, a medina revealing Moorish craftsmanship, and European colonial influences, Tangier retains an enduring eccentricity, and an undeniable charm.

Two hours southeast of Tangier, is Chefchaouen, the Blue City, the Blue Pearl of Morocco, an otherworldly escape sits high up in Morocco’s Rif Mountains. Surrounded by striking green valleys which are a vibrant contrast to the beautiful blue and white houses and mosques. There are endless opportunities for scenic hikes and walks in the Rif Mountains that surround Chefchaouen. Artisan shops offer traditional hand-made goods including handwoven rugs, Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and ironwork, jewelry, caftans, and woven baskets.

Further south lies Fez, Morocco’s spiritual and cultural capital. Fez vies with Marrakesh for the title of Morocco’s most exotic city. This is the country’s spiritual capital, and despite the encroachment of modernity, it has maintained its authentic appeal down through the ages, holding onto its stately bearing as an Imperial City. Its minaret and dome-punctured skyline and timeless, crumbling Islamic architecture are top things to see for travelers.

Only one suggestion of the multiple exclusive torus we can offer here. Architecture and Islamic garden Tours Lose yourself in the gardens of ancient palaces and exotic Riads perfumed with orange blossoms, citrus, blood red roses and the sweetest jasmine. The tour combines an overview of the fascinating and beautiful world of Moroccan Architecture which showcases all the main ornamentation and decorative techniques from floral motifs, geometry, ceramics to calligraphy, symbolic of the rich cultural heritage of the vast Islamic empire and uncovers the mysteries of the Islamic concept of Chahar-bagh, the four-fold garden and leads us to discover earthly paradise revisited.

Overnight at Riad Fes Restored to its original glory, this Relais & Châteaux property is in the Medina, in the heart of the ancient city of Fez. Riad Fès is renowned for its luxury, impeccable service, and fine restaurant, it has been restored to its original glory in the heart of the ancient city, a serene atmosphere with decor reminiscent of Arabian Nights. 

Sahara Desert. Overnight Desert Luxury Camp

Skoura. Surprisingly lush and abrupt as it springs from the tawny landscape, Skoura deserves a lingering look for its kasbahs and its rich concentration of date palm, olive, fig, and almond trees. Pathways tunnel through the vegetation from one kasbah to another within this fertile island—a true oasis, perhaps the most intensely verdant in Morocco. Skoura is such a magical place, that if you’re on a grand tour of the Great Oasis Valleys, think about basing yourself here.

Stay Dar Ahlam. On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Terracotta colored stone meets cerulean skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Experience a land of adventure from this Kasbah near Ouarzazate, gateway to the Moroccan desert. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty in the privacy of your own luxury tent. Secluded by palm groves and almond trees at the edge of the Moroccan desert, this two-hundred-year-old rammed earth Kasbah the color of Champagne is an original maison des rêves. Gracefully made over with all modern comforts and the necessary technology, this singular fourteen room hideaway overlooks the Atlas Mountains, with a palm shaded swimming pool, hammam and candle-lit massage room. Dar Ahlam is not so much a hotel as a team of over 100 people dedicated entirely to you. Meals are customized and served to you among a selection of distinct, private settings like their flourishing gardens by Louis Benech, the gifted designer of the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris and the Bosquet du Théâtre d’Eau at Versailles.

Trek into the Valley of Roses, explore among the corn stalks and pomegranate trees of a nearby palmeraie and drive to the hilltop vestiges of a 12th century Berber village for a traditional tea ceremony at dusk.

Off to the High Atlas Mountains at indulgent and magical Kasbah Tamadot, where days are spent hiking to nearby villages, doing sunrise yoga, and immersing oneself in the unique Berber culture. Situated in the spectacular Atlas Mountains in Morocco, the award-winning Kasbah Tamadot is owned by Sir Richard Branson. This 28-bedroom hotel is perched at the top of a valley with views up to Mount Toubkal and over to some of the traditional Berber villages that dot around the region. Postcards soon from my Berber tent, the private deck is equipped with loungers to soak up the views and where I will enjoy outdoor dining under an ebony sky bursting with a thousand stars.  My Berber Tent Suite is awaiting my arrival!

In the Berber language, Kasbah Tamadot means ‘soft breeze’. It’s easy to imagine you’re a million miles away from it all in the gorgeous surroundings of Kasbah Tamadot. Located in Asni, a little village and marketplace in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, an area inhabited by the friendly Berbers,

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Berber Village in the Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Depart the magical Kasbah for a short ride through the mountains to Marrakech. The maze of souks must be explored in the covered bazar, I wouldn’t navigate without a guide, pedestrian movement can be interrupted by beasts of burden, mostly donkeys; the scent tells you of the wares. Every type of similar object sits side by side, the leather merchants rest on mounds of bags, prices aren’t marked, it’s a plucky game of negotiation. The Spice Traders Square is the epicenter of the medina, the fabric covered market tables groan under the weight of conical towers of pungent spices. Mysterious herbalist concoctions, baskets brimming with rose petals, this is the best place to purchase the well-known ras el hanout, the famous Moroccan spice blend. Argan oil is best found in a pharmacy as it is a staple product.  Open air vendors will tempt you with their colorful wares and snake charmers do exist on the famed Jamaa el Fna Square, in the Marrakech medina quarter.

Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle is a must visit, designed in 1920 by famed French painter Jacques Majorelle. Historic museums, surfing on the coast and trekking in the great Atlas Mountains are only a few of the striking and authentic offerings. Private visits can be arranged to the Yves Saint Laurent home, Villa Oasis, followed by a privately guided tour to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, where guests are taken into two worlds dear to Yves Saint Laurent’s heart: fashion and Morocco. This awe-inspiring museum exhibits a significant part of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent’s collection, and is a legacy to Marrakech, a city that held such a crucial place in Yves Saint Laurent’s life. The Museum of African Contemporary Art is the first museum dedicated to African Art in Morocco, giving a voice to young, emerging, and established artists, to be proud of their roots in their continent.

Many exclusive tour options but two I am interested in doing besides roaming the souks and private gardens. Calligraphy means “beautiful writing” and Arabic calligraphy (or more properly, Islamic calligraphy) is considered a high art form in the Arab world and is increasingly gaining recognition and appreciation worldwide. Evening Cocktails with Private Storytelling The Moroccan tradition of Hikayat, or storytelling dates back almost 1, 000 years. Some stories were recorded and other stories are passed orally. Hikayat was used as a way to pass on cultural beliefs, such as moral lessons to children and to entertain people on long winter nights. This form of entertainment was found in cities throughout Morocco but today Marrakech’s Jemaa El Fna square is the only city that’s keeping this tradition alive. Reserve one evening to enjoy a private session of this dying art in the comfort and peace of your hotel with the master Storyteller Ahmed Ezzarghani in both Arabic and English before dinner.

Moroccan Tradition of Storytelling Revives in Marrakech

In Marrakech as in other larger metropolitan cities, there are two choices for hotels, authentic chic riads within the walls of the ancient medina for a truly cultural mix or at larger hotels outside the medina. Or stay in both, enjoy the medina culture in the old walled city, where you can walk everywhere amid the fascinating maze of streets or escape the constant activity and slumber outside the walls in luxurious five star hotels. Something for every taste.

Activities have been carefully designed to provide our clients with some of the best experiences that are available in Morocco. We can tailor the activities to your needs, creating full day programs and include meals, fun elements or romantic touches to make your stay in this exotic country truly magical and memory making! An awe-inspiring country with a solid sense of culture.

“As a young child I wanted to be a writer because writers were rich and famous. They lounged around Singapore and Rangoon smoking opium in a yellow pongee silk suit. They sniffed cocaine in Mayfair and they penetrated forbidden swamps with a faithful native boy and lived in the native quarter of Tangier smoking hashish and languidly caressing a pet gazelle.”

— William S. Burroughs

In Need of Beach Therapy? Mosey to Malibu Beach Inn.

Why do we Travel? Many reasons to seek out foreign locales, lately the logistics seem challenging, but the idea of immersing myself in other cultures helps me appreciate and understand and maybe even modify personal perspectives. We travel to discover and come home with a new outlook, broaden horizons as well as creating precious memories, and for me, thousands of new photos!

For each traveler, participation is varied, do you feel a monumental shift in a historic location ie Petra or Egypt. Sometimes the experience stops you in your tracks, other times it’s just a short blip on your travel sensor. At this point, after the dead stop to most travel, perhaps it is time to look at destinations where we can renew and restore some balance and try to center ourselves in the ever-changing pandemic news.

Personally, I find beach therapy the most soul soothing. According to science, the beach is one of the best places to alleviate stress and heal your brain. The calming sound of the ocean waves, the misty salty air, the calmness of a low tide which produces gentle lapping sounds as the waves slowly roll across the sand. It produces a meditative state; a repetitive sound of lapping waves lulls me to sleep. I once stayed at a beach house with friends and one morning someone complained of the pounding surf and the need of ear plugs – I was stunned, assuming everyone loved the soothing sea lullaby.

I popped down to my favorite Malibu Beach Inn, ostensibly to see a few rental Villas, but within hours, I knew I needed to stay longer. The tug of the sea infected me quickly, at dinner with my dear friend and hotel rep, I blurted out, I don’t want to go home! She understood!  Laptop work from the beach is not quite as easy as from my giant monitor, but it is certainly worth staying longer at the beach, especially at Malibu Beach Inn.

Until recently, seaside sun seekers had zero options for a five-star hotel in Malibu. Pacific Coast getaway on ‘Billionaire Beach’ changed dramatically a few years ago with the opening of The Malibu Beach Inn. This is truly cocooning while ‘camped’ right on the shore. Malibu Beach Inn is a petite gem on the famed stretch of beach.

Malibu Beach Inn has 47 rooms and suites, each with a private balcony, all perched oceanfront above the sea on exclusive Carbon Beach. Once a surf side motel, this petite jewel was transformed under a full renovation, cozy Scandinavian style rooms are furnished with a fireplace, chic custom furniture in subtle tones of blue and grey, the ultimate in comfort providing an amazing view of the sparkling sea. The ocean views are varied from each room, I once stayed in a third-floor corner suite which had vistas of the south facing beach and the Malibu Pier. There are a couple of larger suites with a living room and separate bedroom. The bathrooms are streamlined in pale tan and white tones and contain the definitive loo, with blinking lights, acknowledging your presence…i.e. the vital Toto appliance. I’m surprised it didn’t speak my name.

This visit, I was a bit north on the second floor, I turn off the ac and never close the sliding glass doors.  From my bed or sofa, it was if I was on an ocean liner, the horizon in the distance, white caps, soaring sea birds and pods of flying dolphins were the only distractions.

Service – Staff at your beck and call, casual as a beach hotel should be, but efficient and friendly. Despite the pandemic, the hotel is humming, outside restaurant guests are limited, to give staff a break and tend to hotel guests.  

Snug indoor cocktail lounge and cozy dining room, but the ‘must dine’ location is on the cantilevered curved oceanfront terrace. Heaters and shade umbrellas perched for your pleasure, wooly blankets flung at a moment’s notice. If you must leave, Nobu is a two-minute amble, the Malibu outpost of Soho House is minutes away by foot. Personally, I wouldn’t leave the hotel, the dining is terrific!

Malibu Pier is a short stroll away, offering casual dining and a couple of trendy gift shops, a bit farther afield by foot is the Adamson House. A garden estate, originally home to the family who owned Malibu Potteries, a short-lived yet still influential tile company that produced authentic versions of Mayan, Moorish, Moroccan, Saracen, and Persian designs. Although the State of California, who now runs the property, should capitalize on the gardens, the Spanish Colonial Revival home is worth the docent tour. Built in 1929, it occupies one of the most idyllic oceanfront spots in all of Southern California. Situated near the Malibu Pier between popular Surfrider Beach, where Gidget frolicked and surfed with Moondoggie, and the Malibu Lagoon, the house boasts an exotic mix of Spanish and Moorish influences with dazzling displays of decorative tiles and one-of-a-kind craftsmanship including hand-carved doors, hand-painted frescoes, molded ceilings, distinctive cast ironwork and lead-framed bottle glass windows. Equally compelling is the story of the close-knit family who once lived here and whose aura continues to permeate the interior, where most of their original furnishings remain. Do sign up for a docent tour and donate to the restoration fund!

Malibu

The hotel art collection is bright and whimsical, all nodding to the resolute message: you are on vacation, chill, savor the moment and embrace the soothing ambiance. Pieces of the owner’s personal collection include a few Jasper John lithographs; and the iconic Poppy pieces by Donald Sultan which animate the restaurant. I love a property that takes time to create a small guest catalog describing their art; details do make a difference!

Beach – the all important sand stroll, this marvelous stretch of the Coast Hwy is home to some of the most notable movers and shakers and although California beaches are designated as public, you won’t encounter many other walkers. A grand stretch of walkable beach is the picture-perfect sunrise and sunset workout.

Beach staff place loungers, supply towels and serve cocktails and snacks from an exclusive Beach menu on the sand. Umbrellas toted to shade you if requested. The surf is very swimmable, and for a Northern Californian raised on the Southern California beaches, the temperature was divine. One of the locals told me it was too cold for swimming, ha, try dipping a toe into the Northern California Ocean, it is sublime!

The ideal secluded escape; unplug, tote a massive book, snooze under an umbrella on the sand loungers in the afternoons, amble downstairs to a delicious feast and fall asleep to the soothing surf…wake up, repeat and indulge in hours of beach walks.

If you need to unplug and you relish beach ambling, ocean swimming, and delish dining this is the picture-perfect location.

Trust Science- “There are all these cognitive and emotional benefits that we derive every time we spend time by water” said Wallace J. Nichols, a marine biologist and best-selling author of the Blue Mind. “Once you get into it, you realize that it’s chemistry, it’s biology, it’s physiology. It’s deeply personal but it’s also strong science.”

Effortless, relaxed and laid back. In a word, Scrumptious! Cocoon on Carbon Beach at the Malibu Beach Inn. Ring me, perhaps I will join you. I will return, Highly Recommend!