Exclusive Yves Saint Laurent, Dar el-Hanch – Marrakech

Join us for an Exclusive Journey in Marrakech, to the original home of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, Very few visitors are allowed in this private home, but we are! Last winter, an utterly serendipitous meeting in Morocco led me directly to the lacquered red door of the captivating owner, an American woman who owns the first home of YSL and his partner Pierre Bergé. I was giddy with excitement and enchanted after spending the morning sipping tea on a sun-filled terrace in the magical historic home. We are pen-pals and I hope to see her again in Marrakech or in the states. She is an absolute delight and a superb conversationalist.

Waiting to visit Dar el-Hanch, Marrakech!

Explore the first home of YSL, Dar el-Hanch, with our exceptional Moroccan team. It’s possible to meet the owner, it’s possible to spend a private morning sipping tea, it’s possible to organize a private sunset cocktail event or a decadent evening absorbing the energy of Yves Saint Laurent. We are thrilled to share this Exclusive Experience in Marrakech.

The Story.  It’s well-known by fashionistas that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, lived in Morocco, enjoying many happy years in Marrakech and Tangier, leaving tangible homes and gardens infused with the dazzling style and color known to YSL.

In 1966, they arrived Marrakech and for many years, lived at the now famed La Mamounia before buying their first home. La Mamounia was a much humbler, yet slightly luxurious hotel at the time.

Marrakech was an inspiration, YSL was in lust with the colors, the light and the culture. He was raised in Algeria, and some say he was reminded of the Maghreb of his youth. Marrakech was a place to recharge his batteries, an exotic city with endless inspiration. He has been quoted:  “Marrakech has opened me to colour.”

Our Exclusive Story. What most travelers are unaware of, is the story of their first modest home in Marrakech, Dar el-Hanch, Arabic for ‘House of the Serpent‘. Last winter, I had the serendipitous good fortune of spending half a day at this charming home in the Marrakech Medina with the current owner. She has lived here for years, with the original hand drawn and painted coiled serpent painting on the dining room wall, painted by YSL. A ubiquitous symbol in his work, in jewelry, note cards and fashion. The painted serpent is mesmerizing. Gardens infused with climbing vines, melodic fountains, exotic colorful tile terraces and staircases. Moroccan architecture reflecting the history of the country, even in this humble home, include open arches gazing down on colorful mosaic tile-work floors. Moroccan style isn’t lost at Dar el-Hanch, intricate patterned brick fireplaces, colorful tiled walls, a typical Moroccan home is centered around a center tiled or marbled courtyard. A cooling breeze floats through the top floor terrace, covered in blooming vines, stately palms feather in the neighbor gardens. Interior windows are framed with the intricate carved wood lattice panels, known as Mashrabiya screens, providing privacy and a cool breeze.

Dar el-Hanch, was unpretentiously furnished by YSL and Pierre Bergé. Yet it provided a true sense of liberation behind the high walls, a small garden filled with orange blossoms, flowering vines and towering palm trees. It became a meeting place of creatives: Andy Warhol, Mick and Bianca Jagger.

Make a YSL pilgrimage to Marrakech, visit the rarely open to the public, Dar el-Hanch and continue onward with a private guide for a tour of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The museum opened in 2017 to much fanfare, as the French designer regularly celebrated his love for Marrakech and the inspiration it gave his work.

You and your guide will then go next door for a tour of the famously blue Jardin Majorelle, a botanical fantasy designed by Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. It was given to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé by the city of Marrakech when they purchased Villa Oasis. The couple spent much of their time devotedly restoring the space, we can also arrange this as a private experience.

This colorful corner of Marrakech also includes the small but equally important, Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Celebrating the heritage of the original nomadic Moroccans.

Next, experience an exclusive, private visit to the exquisite retreat of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé: the Villa Oasis. The former home of the French expat artist Jacques Majorelle, Villa Oasis was acquired by the couple in the 1980s, and they spent part of every year at their treasured sanctuary until their deaths.

The villa interiors include pieces that Majorelle painted, as well as many traditional Moroccan elements such as hand painted tiled floors, coffered ceilings, and intricate stencil and metalwork and arched doors. The rooms are also home to an incredible private collection of books, paintings and works of art amassed by the couple over the years.

Linger on a hidden bench in the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle, a glamorous space decorated with rare plants in the iconic blues and yellows that are synonymous with YSL’s  life in Marrakech. Surrounded by the soft reverberations of dribbling fountains and birdsong, we can arrange a private lunch in the garden for you and your friends. We may have other local professionals who can join and share their direct knowledge of this fascinating couple.

More here, A Moroccan Passion translated by my new friend, José Abete.

In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Bergé recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. Bergé awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. Photos of Dar el-Hanch are included in this beautiful book.

Tangier Treasures, Where To Shop!

Camel Caravan Three had very specific goals: discover more old city Communal Ovens, meet basket weavers, photograph ancient communal water fountains and of course, browsing antiquarian shops and track down an exclusive cape boutique in Marrakech! The Tangier days of writers and poets and the Rolling Stones have filled tomes… Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote traveled and luxuriated in the 1950s and 1960s. If you haven’t begun your memoir on The Art of Living, you may want to contemplate a sojourn in Tangier.

Tangier, a city located at the northern tip of Morocco, is a captivating fusion of North African, Spanish, Portuguese, and French influences, making it a true crossroads of cultures with a rich Jewish heritage. Tangier medina, by Medina standards, has been restored and updated, it’s still a maze of shops, but the lack of motorbikes and fewer mules trotting the maze of alleyways make exploring a bit more civilized, still a mesmerizing array of goods, but you won’t feel trampled or run over!

The souk of straw weavers apparently closed after Covid, there was a small, scruffy block of shops opening after my departure, my initial disappointment was abated by our amazing guide, Mohammed. A former schoolteacher of history, we were immediately, Simpatico. Mustapha had resourced the brilliant Mohammed, he expressed my extreme disappointment on the straw weavers and shared my other interests…In Marrakech, just behind the Jenaa El Fna square, pass the snake charmers, spice vendors and street vendors, you will find a courtyard of straw weavers with every type of basket, placemats, bottle covers, a plethora of hand made straw objects. Every Wish must be Rewarded!

A short block of shops in Rue de la Liberte, across from the oldest hotel in Tangier produced delighted smiles. I planned to peek inside this famed historic hotel, and the two shops, owned by brothers, on my list, Galerie Tindouf and Bazar Tindouf were across the street.

Bazar Tindouf is in an ancient building which once housed the oldest Jewish bank in Tangier, black and white marble floors are visible, a maze of room upon rooms upstairs and hidden downstairs, holds many secrets. Galerie Tindoff is piled with Moroccan textiles, rarefied art, china and glassware – prepare to be overwhelmed and dusty by the glorious selection!

Mohammed advised me on the provenance of many paintings and steered me away from any non-Moroccan objects. The Galerie is a bit more organized; the Bazar is exactly as it sounds…think multiple floors, hallways piled with Spanish Art Nouveau tiles, small cavern like rooms crammed with pottery, textiles, silver, leather bags… I now know where the fabulous El Fenn finds their beautiful décor. I could have filled a crate. If you’ve perused Umberto Pasti’s beautiful architectural books on his Moroccan homes, you will be familiar with these decadent objects.

Poor Mustapha waits patiently while I rapturously poke through piles of vintage Berber jewelry and dust off antique silver objects. Besides a wonderful African beaded object – also seen at El Fenn, I uncovered an enormous silver ring with a carnelian intaglio surface of etched Arabic figures. Centuries before longhand, signet rings were the first tool nobility and aristocracy used to seal their names on letters and documents. Mohammed assisted in my bargaining, the well known owner is very knowledgeable and kind!

The venerable, El Minzah Hotel, across the street, is a historic location, once the top hotel in Tangier, was a favorite hotel of many dignitaries, politicians, and Hollywood stars. Its architecture, fountains and orange trees create a charming atmosphere. Pop in for an afternoon mint tea, soak in the sunshine and enjoy clear views of the Gibraltar Strait and the coast of Spain from the garden terrace. A refreshing sit down after treasure hunting! The Bazar owner’s daughter has a contemporary gallery closer to the medina.

Kasbah Collective. Opened in 2021, Kasbah Collective mixes Moroccan crafts and textiles, fashion, and homewares – hip and chic. Kasbah Collective is more than just a concept store and gallery nestled in Tangier’s emerging, vibrant neighborhood. Their statement of purpose: a haven of curated beauty and art, a dynamic space standing proudly at the intersection of Bab el Kasbah and Rue Kacem Geunnoun. Their mission: to champion authentic artistry and conscious consumption, bridging the gap between local artisans.

Boutique Majid. Opened in 1970, the three story, Boutique Majid, is much more than just an antique boutique. It is a rare and informed collection of textiles and jewelry, silk, and glass, be prepared to delve into the deep histories of Tangier and Morocco. Carpets stacked to the ceiling; the treasures can be overwhelming! Owned by the legendary and knowledgeable, Abdelmajid Rais El Fenni, this boutique reflects travelling and exploring with passion.

Las Chicas. Just outside the old Medina walls, the two-story shop named Las Chicas after the two innovative women who opened the first concept store in Tangier. Shop till you drop here and visit the tearoom cafe for a respite! Elegant and colorful lanterns and candles, pillows and blankets, vintage jewelry, brilliant hued kaftans, tassels, and woven leather handbags.

Madini Fragrance. Where else can you find the heavenly scent of orange blossoms, dates, and jasmine oils? Tangier in a bottle of oil, recreate the experience when you are home.  Near the Café de Paris.

Topolina. Just down a narrow passageway from my dining favorite El Morocco Club café, you will find a whitewashed building with a hot pink interior! The owner, French designer Isabelle Topolina, is passionate about color! You’ll find fun fabrics, a collection of vintage fabrics in clothes for men and women. The Tangier outpost consists of three small rooms bursting with exuberant hues and quirky fashions. 

Reading List Tangier An inspired collection to inspire your Journey!