I’d never explored an Oasis; I was intrigued by the expedition offered by our dear friends at Dar Hossoun in Taroudant.
A short drive from the property, it’s always a scenic journey in Morocco, where you pass through small villages which come to life on Market Day, I adore seeing local people going about their lives. Donkey carts trotting on the edge of the highway, their rattan baskets brimming with just harvested vegetables. Young boys riding sidesaddle atop a mule, perhaps on his way home from school. Enormous hay trucks precariously leaning to one side…loading the huge hay trucks is an art form! The adobe houses, with their ornate wooden doors, are photo worthy. Every alley has a story to tell, children playing between earthen walls, offering a glimpse into the traditional Berber way of life.
Morocco
Morocco
Morocco
Morocco
Morocco
Tiout Oasis is a perfect picturesque day-trip destination from either Taroudant or Agadir, offering visitors a serene atmosphere, breathtaking natural scenery, and an authentic glimpse into Amazigh (Berber) village life. Nestled at the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, it is easily accessible by car, there are always interesting sites en route to their field trips!
Begin at the top of the hill where an ancient Kasbah is perched, dating back to the Saadian period, (16th Century). The Tiout palm grove is a maze of greenery at the foot of the Kasbah.
Kasbah in Tiout
Far from the typical tourist tracks, the Oasis is a unique blend of plantings. I’ve seen a Palm Oasis from the road, not knowing that plants or buildings were scattered amid the palm trees. The palm groves stretch endlessly, a sea of green against the dry ochre earth.
As you begin the walk or if you prefer, hire a mule and trot through the oasis! Palm trees sway in the gentle breeze, casting cool shadows over the sandy paths and tidy rows of vegetables. A loud braying donkey hides in the orchards of pomegranate, oranges and olives. Birds swoop and pluck bugs out of the air. Wander at your own pace along the winding paths through the oasis. It was surprising to see a variety of plantations, from fig and olive trees to almond trees and plots of wheat and vegetables. Every turn offers a new surprise, all under the cover of towering palms.
Tiout Oasis
At the edge of the fields, you may hear the trickle of water before you discover the centuries old cement irrigation channels, the ‘seguias’, the traditional irrigation channels. The channels have manual locks, to divert the water to various fields. An abundant water source irrigates the oasis, where many irrigation canals crisscross the landscape, families monitor the flow and take turns shutting and diverting the flow of the canals.
The oasis is a testament to the ingenuity of the Berber people who carved out the intricate irrigation channels in the midst of a desert environment. The channels are a lifeline for the thousands of palm trees and the locals who live nearby.
Aqueducts Tiout Oasis
Tiout Oasis
Tiout Oasis
Tiout Oasis
Tiout Oasis
What a pleasant surprise to discover a few small restaurants serving traditional lunch amid the palms. Florence, the lovely owner of Dar Hossoun, made us a lunch reservation; under the tranquil shade of a large tent, the walls and floors were covered in multicolored patterns and prints, comfy cushions and low tables set the stage for an amazing Moroccan banquet. Begin with washing your hands from a small pitcher and marvel at the endless array of delectable treats delivered from the tiny kitchen. The woman and her son who own the restaurant make everything fresh, including the bread she was patiently kneading.
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
Lunch in the Tiout Oasis
We encountered a few artisans along the twisting paths; I’m always an easy sell for a local artist! Along a wide clearing, one enterprising woman was renting enormous handmade blankets to visitors to use while they picnic or snooze under the palms. She had beautiful bushels of fragrant spices and herbs – again, I am a good consumer, supporting the locals everywhere I travel!
Tiout OasisTiout OasisTiout Oasis
At the end of the oasis path, we discovered the piscine! The crystal-clear waters of the pool are surrounded by lush greenery, soak in the beauty of nature!
Tiout PiscineTiout PiscineTiout Piscine
Captivating villages, a shady oasis, locals tending to crops, donkeys, still the beasts of burden; its stepping back in time—daily scenes that still define life in Tiout today; an authentic charming atmosphere.
Seven weeks in Africa, four weeks in Morocco! Yes, I am somewhat obsessed with Morocco and similar age-old raw countries! Roaming the countryside, I’m intrigued and fascinated seeing people living off the land as their ancestors did. Morocco never bores, always intrigues, and leaves you wanting more, once is not enough! Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent.
My Journey goals were planned: visit the newest hotels or riads in the booming Moroccan hospitality industry, discover additional ancient community ovens, many are still in use today; visit world heritage ksar sites and fortified graniers, also known as Igoudar. For lovers of historical heritage, multiple sites exist all over Morocco.
Plus meander the souks in search of specific antiquities, explore old gardens, and of course, dine at the newest and my best-loved restaurants! Every Journey to Marrakech includes a culinary escape to Amanjena’s spectacular grounds and the lovely Royal Mansour Le Jardin, a peaceful haven in the heart of the buzzy Ochre City with high end gastronomy! And finally, discover a true Luxury Sahara Camp!
The Journey with full posts to come! I explored a modified Camel Caravan Path in the fall. Many travelers assume they should arrive and visit Marrakech, while it is an exhilarating picturesque city, there are other paths, especially if you have visited Marrakech and think this is the only Moroccan destination! It is not, I’ve traversed Morocco several times, it’s my second home.
Morocco is on the top Travel lists; all the new hotels reflect this renaissance. The country has rebounded after the 2023 earthquake.
My path and a few of my discoveries: arrive Casablanca and mosey to the Four Seasons Casablanca– which has the best beds in the country, except for the Four Seasons Marrakech! Casablanca FS is a dry hotel, if you crave a cocktail, make reservations at Rick’s Café for dinner! I recently discovered the Four Seasons has a site for purchasing their dreamy beds!
A short three hour drive up the coast to see and stay at La Fiermontina, Ocean, isolated on the wild coast of Larache, it reminds me of an Aman type location. Discover the romantic suites and private villas with pools and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the rolling dunes. Al fresco lunch and continue north or spend a night and relish miles of beaches, relax at the sophisticated spa layered in elegant black and white marble and wander the small village. It’s a popular summer location for locals. I will stay next time, recover from the long flight with dune walks.
La Fiermontina Ocean. LaracheLa Fiermontina Ocean. Larache
Drive to Tangier, stop in Asilah on the way to Tangier. It’s only 2 hours to Tangier, browse the seaside art colony in a leisurely afternoon.
New property, Villa Mabrouka, has recently opened. Transformed by the esteemed British designer Jasper Conran, once the secluded sanctuary of fashion legends Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Petite and private 12 room haven with sweeping views of the Strait of Gibraltar. Lush gardens with hush-hush niches for reading or snoozing; birdsong, and breezes at no extra charge. Gardens of rare Mediterranean plants were designed by Madison Cox. Imagine a candlelight dinner in a charming vine covered stone gazebo on a cliff with views to die for. Walk to the nearby bustling Tangier Kasbah and medina, amble around the corner to yummy dining at famed El Morocco Club. Cozy, intimate seating upstairs or try the buzzy piano bar downstairs. Always say yes to the oysters! Tangier has an extensive list of private gardens, last winter I spent a delightful few hours meandering Umberto Pasti Rohuna Gardens.
Two points of interest and direction choices here. One: two nights in Tangier is a good first-time visit. If you haven’t wandered the famed Blue City, Chefchaouen, is 2 hours away – you must visit at least once in Morocco! Small riad with indoor pool in the middle of the medina is fine for one night.
Then onward to Fez which is four hours from Chefchaouen. I’ve visited the charming Blue City however, in our winter, it’s hard for me to say no to exploring a sunny beach, so it was onward from Tangier, where I spent three delicious days at the Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay. I’m a beach girl, any beach hotel with miles of sandy beach walking purrs a particular tune to me. An elegant all-villa hotel, this is the Hamptons of Morocco! Positioned between the rugged Rif mountains and the glistening Mediterranean Sea, the resort oozes authentic Moroccan style Villas with private pools. Full post coming soon on my delightful visit. An authentic Thai restaurant, Saffron, whose fun staff make every wish come true! Terrace dining on the edge of a bird filled estuary, the sapphire Mediterranean Sea is just beyond the bird pond. A huge infinity pool is plopped on the sand, soundtrack: lapping surf. Miles of beach for strolling or hire a pony for a gallop! Bikes at your door for an impromptu spin around the grounds or escape an off-road mountain bike excursion. The hotel is an extraordinary blend of romance and exotic Moroccan charm. I will be returning to Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay!
Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay
If you haven’t visited Fez, you must! It’s a slighter less hectic version of Marrakech. From Banyan Tree, a six-hour drive. Riad Fès is the only Palace Hotel. Must book the gorgeous suites far in advance and must enjoy sunset cocktails from the rooftop restaurant. I love three nights in Fez, its relaxed and gives you time to explore at leisure. Riad Fès combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fèz Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, salons, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.
Fez to the Sahara – an 8-hour drive – but quite scenic. Two nights in the luxury Sahara Tent camp – the quiet winter peacefulness is extraordinary, I’ve pretty much broken up with Camels after multiple experiences, but I’ve decided on my next Sahara visit, a sunset camel caravan might be worth exploring the sand dunes from the back of a camel.
Sahara Luxury Tent Camp
And the night sky, you can practically scoop up the stars from the inky black sky. I would be happy here with a book for 2 days – active peeps can chose from multiple activities dune buggy excursions, camel crossing picnics at an oasis, or merely sit and stare at the endless horizon of untouched sand dunes. Colors change with each passing hour; drier air translates to more vivid color. Warm sunrise hues change dramatically to intense blue afternoon skies, and brilliant yellow, gold, and red hues illuminate the horizon as the sun slowly melts into the dunes.
The Sahara to Dar Ahlam, House of Dreams in Skoura – a not to be missed fantasy property… two nights at least for full immersion experience!
I carried onward to Marrakech, however, to shorten your sojourn, you can travel an hour to Ouarzazate and fly back to Casablanca for return home.
Adding on – Dar Ahlam to the Atlas Mountains Skoura to Mountains 4 – 4.5 hours to our favorite hotel properties Olinto or Kasbah Tamadot. There are only two Atlas Mountain options – very different in style, Kasbah Tamadot is a client favorite. Olinto is a completely unique experience, a respite from Marrakech, a peaceful sanctuary. New post to come on Olinto after enjoying my first restful stay..
Olinto, Morocco
Olinto, Morocco
Olinto, Morocco
Atlas Mountains – 90 mins to Marrakech and departure flights. I stayed in Marrakech for eight nights in multiple hotels, some new to me. I was particularly. Impressed with the Oberoi, I wasn’t prepared to love it as much as I did! I’ve stayed at Oberoi in India; they are gorgeous and quite over the top! Oberoi Marrakech is outside the city fray, a peaceful haven of private villas with plunge pools. It’s elegant, but not overdone. A peaceful oasis within minutes from the chaos that is Marrakech!
Then onward to one of my small favorites Dar al Hossoun – this is an area for deep ancient discoveries. For those who wish to move, the choice is vast: hikes, small taxis or carriages, visits to the souks, the tannery, discovery of “lost” valleys of the Upper or Anti-Altas, Berber villages… and visits of private houses and gardens .
Moving to the Atlantic Coast again, for me, a return to the beach near Agadir, to the Fairmont. I crave beach experiences and the Fairmont is the best hotel here. Amazing spa, miles of sandy beach, on a foggy twilight ramble, I spotted several camels, men in sapphire turbans beckoned me to join them for a camel adventure. There is an exotic tale everywhere in Morocco! Would you say yes?
Nearby, the ancient town of Agadir has a small laidback medina. I discovered a new Italian built Agadir medina; the original city was mostly leveled by an earthquake in 1960. Architect Coco Polizzi, a Moroccan-Italian professional, developed a charming medina called Polizzi’s Medina, the buildings have a medieval look with many elements of traditional Moroccan architecture. Mud, wood, and stone, sourced nearby, make up the bulk of the structure. Strolling through the narrow courtyards of the medina, you’ll feel as if you’ve gone back in time, but the perfection that exudes from every corner suggests that it doesn’t date back several centuries.
Agadir Medina Polizzi’s MedinaAgadir Beach
Back to Marrakech for newer hotel and museum experiences…
My exceptional guide took me by the hand to the oldest Hammam in Marrakech, built in 1562. Walking underground, he introduced me to the men who feed a hot fire all day and night to heat the huge water cauldrons which produce the steam in the hammam! I love that technology has not replaced these men; ancient culture is still in place in many locations if you know where to look! In the medina, a pile of wood and smoke usually lead to a community oven or here, to the underground caldron in the oldest hammam. Astonishing – a modern city which treasures its culture and history. Traditionally, the heat for the Moroccan hammam is provided by the farnatchi, the man in charge of tending the fire beneath the bathhouse that heats its floors and walls. Many women would bring a ceramic urn known as a tanjia of a beef stew to cook outside the fire all day – one of these pots was resting at the edge of the wood stove. Tanjia is the name of both the stew and the ceramic urn it’s cooked in. Traditionally, the earthen pots are taken by families to the communal furnace ovens inside the medina, which heat water for the local hammams.
Communal Oven
Oldest Marrakech Hammam heated by fire
Oldest Marrakech Hammam heated by fire
Moving around the African continent with several 60 pound suitcases is not a vacation, people assume I am on vacation for seven weeks, au contraire! In Marrakech, I stayed at six different hotels. If I don’t stay, how can I advise a client, you will love it! I had read much about Beldi Country Club – the hotel souks are authentic and are brimming with lovely handmade Moroccan treasures. Plopped amidst stunning gardens, the large suites are well furnished, however, the concept of Country Club is not what we imply as a country club – it was the perfect location after 21 days of meandering; lounging and slumbering in 90-degree weather, absorbed in my book. There is no butler button for pool service or coffee delivered to bed – the pool time was delicious, but I need a teeny bit more service!
Never miss a stay or pool lunch at my brilliant friend Meryanne Loum-Martin’s, Jnane Tamsnaproperty. If I don’t stay, I dine several times with her, we giggle and gossip and share travel gems – she knows everyone and everything! Her property is an enchanted garden of small villas, salons, pool, tennis courts and mesmerizing dining experiences. Plus a new Souk!
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech
Jnane Tamsna,Marrakech
I’ve always thought I wanted to stay in the medina – two brief nights in a messy medina confirmed being in the middle will not cure my lack of direction! Mustapha gives me strict locations on where to stand when he is fetching me for day excursions…don’t stray from here or you will be lost! I do stray when he gets distracted…not allowed! In the tiny Taroudant medina, I strayed and unearthed enormous amber beads and a small metal box with bone inlay! I text: I’m in souk next door, come help me negotiate!
Clients love Villa des Orangers and with the newly added white marble and white linen shiny bright suites, I love it even more. This palace hotel makes me think I am in the medina, to find my sparkling suite, I memorized this passageway: from the pool, walk until you see the bowl of ostrich eggs in the distinctive green enamel Tamegroute urn, turn left, pass the sexy bar, left through an interior courtyard with pond, right at white stairway to my upper floor suite! Two heated pools, numerous salons for intimate cozy meals or story telling performances.
Villa des Orangers Villa des Orangers Villa des Orangers
The Four Seasons in Marrakech is usually my go to last hotel – my glorious suite provides enough room to repack, sort my treasures, laundry done in hours, and I love the spa, pools, and dining – it’s where I regroup to return home or on this Journey, continue onward to Kenya and South Africa.
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
Moroccan Crafts
The best of Morocco can be discovered with our marvelous guides and fearless driver; these trusted companions with the tales of the complex medieval history, the final, if needed, bargaining point in the souks, a guide to tasting the best spices, finding vendors selling indigenous music, facilitating introductions in a small school in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, sourcing traditional Moroccan handicrafts, obtaining reservations in the best local restaurants and ultimately our VIP Client Liaison who is a resource for all needs while traveling to Morocco, we travel with these experts to make certain our clients will enjoy The VV Best Journey.
Unpacking List: It’s not the things you take with you that define your Journey; it’s the experiences you have and the memories you bring home.
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