For no particular reason, eco-lodge is not high on my radar, ancient buildings with luxury amenities are more my comfort level. However, an oasis narrative does speak to me, my Moroccan wanderings have led me to a few lush locations, most without a ‘proper’ hotel. Let’s make it clear, Glamping is appealing, but comfort is essential to me. I camped as a kid with fond memories, I can probably still bait a hook and gut a trout. But I crave a cushy bed in that Tent!

My first Journey to Egypt checked almost every box, I voyaged down the Nile, up at sunrise with my camera; awed by seeing men in their ankle length, colorful Galabeya (or jalabiya), a bundle of hay wrapped in a vibrant blanket, quietly feeding their cows. Every morning in the cool dawn hours, I sat transfixed on the bow of our boat motoring from Aswan to Luxor – the photos appear to be from Biblical times. What I missed was sailing on Dahabeeyah.

I’m plotting a return to explore Alexandria, a place card for one of my ultimate destinations, Siwa Oasis. Siwa Oasis is one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements with a population of about 33,000 people, mostly Berbers, who developed a unique and isolated desert culture and a language called Siwi; they are also fluent in the Egyptian dialect of Arabic which is called “Masry” meaning Egyptian. It’s a trek, if you don’t charter a jet, a road Journey of close to nine hours, but I’m determined to visit. The greatest adventure is what lies ahead – each day brings unknown possibilities. You might remember my Wadi Rum adventure – roaming with our driver, I realized the dangling colorful photo from my drivers mirror was of Saddam Hussein; he gave Jordan free oil, anxiety alarm; but it is also where I enjoyed tea in a massive black goat hair tent owned by a Bedouin shop keeper. 

For centuries Alexandria was arguably the most important city in the world, at the heart of developments in sciences and philosophy, and repository of the greatest collection of knowledge in the world, the famous Library. For such a noteworthy place, precious little of the old Alexandria remains – Pompey’s Pillar and the catacombs as well as assorted artifacts in the Graeco-Roman Museum. Lucky for me, one of my favorite comfy beds will be waiting for me at The Four Seasons Alexandria!

At this point in my Journeys, I am besotted by raw culture, ancient civilizations which haven’t seemed to have changed in hundreds of years. Adrere Amellal Eco-Lodge in a very remote oasis of Siwa is calling me!  Imagine the quiet under the inky black skies, blanketed by millions of stars. With Biblical views of reeds and palms outlining the pounded mud structure. Each one of the hand-built 40 rooms is unique, combining distinction and authenticity. Earth hued buildings blend naturally into the landscape. All the furniture and crafts pay tribute to nature and to talented local artisanship

Adrère Amellal in Siwa, is a distinctive and exclusive far-flung location. Each of their hand-built 40 rooms is unique. Handcrafted from salt rock and mudbrick, blending seamlessly into the desert landscape, the lodge resembles a traditional Siwan village. Unapologetically off grid, with no electricity, and only a few distractions. The rooms glow with a dozen beeswax candles and the brilliance of the starry desert sky. The property was designed by the Egyptian environmentalist owner with a Paris based architect India Mahdavi.

A 15-minute drive brings you to Siwa town’s souks and cafes — ideal for local dining and shopping and a museum. Enjoy Siwan dishes, a mix of Egyptian and Moroccan cuisine. Enjoy traditional Siwan dishes cooked in honey glazed pots with all the herbs and vegetables hand-picked from the local organic garden. Signature dishes: organic tomatoes stuffed with herb garden peas, hibiscus Risotto, date cigars.

You might not expect to find a refined museum a mile from the main lodge, dedicated to the work of American photographer, Peter Beard. The museum is titled Eye of the Desert: The Peter Beard Museum Siwa. A permanent home for his iconic large-scale photographs, often embellished by his Kenyan Hog Ranch Art Department, as well as pages from his notorious diaries and family photos. A wing is also dedicated to Lee Miller, who lived in Cairo with her first husband. You may remember the 2023 film: Lee with Kate Winslet. The museums are purposely built without electricity and are illuminated by candlelight at night. Beard was introduced to the museums founder. In 2001 he made a trip to Siwa and returned several times. Egypt was one of the countries he traveled to with his family.

The museum and lodge were conceived and built by Dr. Mounir Neamatalla, the Egyptian environmentalist and founder of Environmental Quality International (EQI), who has worked on sustainable development and ecotourism projects across Africa and the Middle East since 1981.

Simple solitude, black skies featuring dazzling stars, stunning vistas and a unique natural environment with exceptional geological features; 230 natural freshwater springs fed by the Nubian aquifer. Thousands of palm trees and olive trees make Siwa a rare destination, the cultural capital of the oases of the Egyptian Sahara on the immense expanse of the sand dunes named the Great Sand Sea.

Siwa Oasis is one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements with about 33,000 people, mostly Berbers, my few Berber words might be helpful! Famed as the location of the Oracle of Amon, whom Alexander the Great consulted before continuing his Persian conquest, Siwa exists today much as it always has, boasting majestic rock formations, lush groves and brilliant salt lakes throughout the oasis. Once a vital stop on trans-Saharan trade routes, Siwa’s history stretches back to prehistoric times, with its crowning jewel — the Temple of the Oracle of Amun — drawing seekers of prophecy, including Alexander the Great himself.

Today, Siwa remains a cultural enclave where Amazigh traditions thrive amid palm groves, salt lakes, and mud-brick architecture. You can float effortlessly in shimmering salt pools, explore the haunting Mountain of the Dead. Siwan Pottery (foghar in Arabic) was traditionally used in the household. A variety of pots, each with their own designs and decorations, were used for purposes like storing water, cooking, burning incense. In Siwa two types of clay were used: a dry desert clay and garden clay or ‘edible clay’ which used to be eaten by pregnant women, as people believed it had many health benefits. Traditionally, women were making clay pots at home and the patterns used for decoration, though simpler, are similar to the lines and symbols of the Siwa embroidery.

Even if you’ve Journeyed to other deserts, nothing will prepare you for being encircled by infinite rolling mounds of talcum-powder-quality sand. Sights in town and nearby include Shali Fortress, Tombs of Jabal el Mawta, The Temple of the Oracle of Amun, and Cleopatra’s,Water Spring, Alexander the Great.

Excursions: Shali Fortress The magnificent relic at the center of Siwa’s main town. According to ancient Siwan scriptures, 40 Siwans built the fortress in 1203 A.D. to protect the community against raiding Bedouin tribes. Now it is a remarkable landmark and protected historic site in the center of Shali town.

The Temple of the Oracle of Amun The Temple has attracted many visitors over the history of ancient civilizations, the most prominent being Alexander the Great. Alexander the Great came in 331 BC to consult the Oracle of Amun in order to seek confirmation that he was the son of the gods and consequently the legitimate Pharaoh of Egypt.

Tombs of
Jabal el Mawta This great mountain is also known as “Mountain of the Dead” in which graves were dug dating back to the Greco-Roman period. The limestone hill is home to over 700 Roman and four 26th Dynasty tombs carved into the rock face. The four 26th Dynasty tombs are open to the public and feature well-maintained mural drawings.

Cleopatra’s Water Spring The spring is one of many in the area and is located on the path that leads to the Temple of Amun. It is a stone pool fed by natural spring water, and probably the best known bath in the area. With its cool, clear waters gushing from underground natural aquifers, Cleopatra Spring is a sanctuary for both locals and visitors looking to relax and swim.

Fatnas Island Another favorite bathing spot for locals and tourists in Siwa. Also known as “Fantasy Island,” the spot is located 6 km from Siwa Town on the salt lake of Birket Siwa in a beautiful surrounding of palm trees and beautiful scenery. This was reputed to be one of the best places in Siwa to watch the sun go down, in the middle of this oasis in the Egyptian desert.

Jabal Dakrour This Mountain is most famous for the traditional Siwan therapeutic treatments given to calm the ailments of Rheumatism and Arthritis. The Sand Bath treatments consist of burial in the desert sand, up to the neck, whereby a small tent shades the face from the hot sun. Afterwards, a slow cooling process is given with herbal tea.

Bir Wahed A very special excursion with 4×4 vehicles into the outer dunes of the Great Sand Sea, to Bir Wahed, 12km southwest of town. It’s a magical feeling, a hot pool the size of a large Jacuzzi, into which sulphurous water gushes and the run-off irrigates a garden around the pool.

“I started a New Life at The Foot of this Mountain” quote of owner Mounir Neamatalla.

Travel to Siwa by car or charter flight – no Camel Caravans, as far as I know!