Wax Room – a meditative cocoon. Dar Ahlam

Dar Ahlam “house of dreams’ near Skoura, Morocco. A hotel of fables and fanciful experiences. We walked through the dusty paths of the local village from Dar Ahlam to their newest Kasbah; the older Kasbah was destroyed in the earthquake. Although I missed the braying of the sheep and goats in their downstairs pens, the new Kasbah is a stunning replacement – with proper steps, in place of ancient wood ladders.

I was drawn by the scent, the fragrance of sweet pure wax to a delicious room that is completely walled in beeswax petals. The room smells extraordinary – like being inside a honeycomb of a beehive. A “room filled with stillness and creation,” where flowers are “transformed” into memory. It is a work that “extends time”.

This artistic endeavor is part of the hotel’s mission to offer guests a unique and poetic experience that immerses guests in local culture and heritage. At Dar Ahlam, art is not confined to a traditional gallery. It is integrated into the daily experience, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere for guests.

The wax room conjured memories of my Catholic upbringing and High Mass, beeswax candles symbolize purity and are a common part of worship. Often mixed with the fragrance of incense, typically frankincense; the smell of church, a scent steeped in centuries old traditions. Although, I don’t practice religion, I am drawn to cathedrals and I still light wax candles and whisper to my grandparents and parents. If there is a heaven, they know I haven’t forgotten them.

The Food Lab: Guided by artist and beekeeper Olivier Darné, the “Food Lab” is a living, evolving art space in the hotel’s garden. It doubles as a farm where traditional techniques are used to grow vegetables, herbs, and medicinal plants. The dishes served to their guests are inspired daily by a library of local flavors, mostly plant-based and, for the most part, grown right in the heart of the palm grove.

But today, Skoura faces a major climate challenge: a lack of water for crops. In response, they’ve deepened their commitment with the creation of a Food Lab, just a 10-minute walk from the main Kasbah.

This 2,000 meter plot is divided into around thirty sections for vegetables, aromatic herbs, and medicinal plants. Rooted in traditional farming techniques, they work hand in hand with local oasis farmers to explore methods better suited to drought conditions, helping ease the burden on local communities.

Guided by Olivier Darné, artist, beekeeper, and founder of the Parti Poétique collective, the Food Lab also carries an artistic mission: a living, evolving space where art is accessible and inspiring for all.

Highly Recommend – Dar Ahlam, Skoura

Oasis Tiout – Morocco. A Journey Through Time

I’d never explored an Oasis; I was intrigued by the expedition offered by our dear friends at Dar Hossoun in Taroudant. 

A short drive from the property, it’s always a scenic journey in Morocco, where you pass through small villages which come to life on Market Day, I adore seeing local people going about their lives. Donkey carts trotting on the edge of the highway, their rattan baskets brimming with just harvested vegetables. Young boys riding sidesaddle atop a mule, perhaps on his way home from school. Enormous hay trucks precariously leaning to one side…loading the huge hay trucks is an art form! The adobe houses, with their ornate wooden doors, are photo worthy. Every alley has a story to tell, children playing between earthen walls, offering a glimpse into the traditional Berber way of life.

Tiout Oasis is a perfect picturesque day-trip destination from either Taroudant or Agadir, offering visitors a serene atmosphere, breathtaking natural scenery, and an authentic glimpse into Amazigh (Berber) village life. Nestled at the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, it is easily accessible by car, there are always interesting sites en route to their field trips!

Begin at the top of the hill where an ancient Kasbah is perched, dating back to the Saadian period, (16th Century). The Tiout palm grove is a maze of greenery at the foot of the Kasbah.

Kasbah in Tiout

Far from the typical tourist tracks, the Oasis is a unique blend of plantings. I’ve seen a Palm Oasis from the road, not knowing that plants or buildings were scattered amid the palm trees. The palm groves stretch endlessly, a sea of green against the dry ochre earth.

As you begin the walk or if you prefer, hire a mule and trot through the oasis! Palm trees sway in the gentle breeze, casting cool shadows over the sandy paths and tidy rows of vegetables. A loud braying donkey hides in the orchards of pomegranate, oranges and olives. Birds swoop and pluck bugs out of the air. Wander at your own pace along the winding paths through the oasis. It was surprising to see a variety of plantations, from fig and olive trees to almond trees and plots of wheat and vegetables. Every turn offers a new surprise, all under the cover of towering palms.

Tiout Oasis

At the edge of the fields, you may hear the trickle of water before you discover the centuries old cement irrigation channels, the ‘seguias’, the traditional irrigation channels. The channels have manual locks, to divert the water to various fields. An abundant water source irrigates the oasis, where many irrigation canals crisscross the landscape, families monitor the flow and take turns shutting and diverting the flow of the canals.

The oasis is a testament to the ingenuity of the Berber people who carved out the intricate irrigation channels in the midst of a desert environment. The channels are a lifeline for the thousands of palm trees and the locals who live nearby.

What a pleasant surprise to discover a few small restaurants serving traditional lunch amid the palms. Florence, the lovely owner of Dar Hossoun, made us a lunch reservation; under the tranquil shade of a large tent, the walls and floors were covered in multicolored patterns and prints, comfy cushions and low tables set the stage for an amazing Moroccan banquet. Begin with washing your hands from a small pitcher and marvel at the endless array of delectable treats delivered from the tiny kitchen. The woman and her son who own the restaurant make everything fresh, including the bread she was patiently kneading.

We encountered a few artisans along the twisting paths; I’m always an easy sell for a local artist! Along a wide clearing, one enterprising woman was renting enormous handmade blankets to visitors to use while they picnic or snooze under the palms. She had beautiful bushels of fragrant spices and herbs – again, I am a good consumer, supporting the locals everywhere I travel!

At the end of the oasis path, we discovered the piscine!  The crystal-clear waters of the pool are surrounded by lush greenery, soak in the beauty of nature!

Captivating villages, a shady oasis, locals tending to crops, donkeys, still the beasts of burden; its stepping back in time—daily scenes that still define life in Tiout today; an authentic charming atmosphere.

Highly Recommend!