Category Archives: Jewels and Gems

A Moorish Dream in Luxor Al Moudira Hotel

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Where I want to go…my end of year Journey to Papua New Guinea concluded with a dramatic cyclone which set me off on a 25 hour schlepp home, my thirst for travel has not diminished one teeny bit!

Travel feeds my soul, a six-week Journey or longer is perfect for me…I build in down time, jet lag feels more manageable and I cover thousands of miles seeking out the newest hotels, guides and exclusive experiences.

On my diary list, a return to Egypt, like Morocco, its raw customs lure me back. Both countries share a complex cultural past woven from a tapestry of history, heritage and in Egypt, historical figures including pharaohs and queens. Known for monumental building projects and political leadership and military campaigns.

A Moorish Dream: Al Moudira Hotel, in Luxor, is calling to me!! In Arabic, Al Moudira is feminine for ‘the boss’, the name workers and artisans gave to Zeina Aboukheir, who in 1999, originally conceived this haven of tranquility. Situated on a lush estate of almost 8 hectares on Luxor’s west bank, Relais & Châteaux, Al Moudira Hotel is in close proximity to the renowned Valley of the Kings. Its spacious guest rooms and suites furnished with an eclectic mix of treasures sourced throughout the Middle East, open onto enchanting courtyards featuring trickling fountains. Beyond the ornate patios, stroll through shady gardens of palm trees, lemon trees and hibiscus toward the marble-clad swimming pool and hammam. Enjoy meals in either the beautiful Ottoman room, in the main courtyard or at the poolside pavilion, prepared using the freshest ingredients from Al Moudira’s own farm. Time slows down, matching the gentle flow of the River Nile.

Only 54 suites, rooms and new Villas on property, on the quieter west bank. No two rooms are the same, the newish Villas designed by Egyptian architect Olivier Sednaoui and a small army of local artisans, built a mini village of Moorish mansions, which feel authentically ancient. One of which, Villa Zeina, was Aboukheir’s home for 22 years, and boasts the hand-painted frescoes that make so many of the hotel’s rooms charmingly unique.

Modern Luxor is also known as the world’s greatest open-air museum. It contains the ruins of the temples of Karnak and Luxor. The Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, ancient burial grounds, lie nearby – these are where the ritual burials of the Pharaohs took place. To avoid feeling rushed in Luxor, you’ll need at least two days to explore its treasures. 

Although I cruised the Nile to Luxor, I was on board during my visit to the Valley of the Kings. Luxor’s airport is a convenient 40 minutes away.

Nile Travel: Set Nefru, their 37-metre dahabiya, a traditional Nile sailing boat, is moored nearby and ready for your private charter. One of the few early 20th century boats still in service on the Nile, Set Nefru has recently been lovingly restored. The boat now boasts five luxury cabins, is fully crewed and is available as a private charter for long or short cruises.

Egypt: Highly Recommend! More than once!

Moroccan storytelling, the tradition of Hikayat.

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Moroccan storytelling, the tradition of Hikayat, is a rich oral tradition with a history of over 1,000 years, where performers in public squares and circles share tales that impart morals, lessons, and cultural values. These stories, like parables, have diverse influences from Arab, Sub-Saharan African, and Berber cultures. The tradition, is experiencing a revival through initiatives like the World Storytelling Cafe in Marrakech and yearly festivals.

Some stories were recorded, and other stories are passed orally. Today this form of entertainment in danger of becoming extinct. Previously, hikayat was found in cities throughout Morocco, but today Marrakech’s Jema el-Fna’a Square is one of the last places to find the old stories and there are fewer and fewer storytellers. Cafe Clock offers a new venue and an opportunity for young Moroccans to train in this ancient art.

We believe in personal experiences, what is luxury after all? A five-star hotel or layers of personal experiences?  Our local team has organized a private story telling evening for me several times and for clients, in one of the intimate extravagantly decorated private salons at Villa des Orangers  – it is pure theatre with two actors reciting ancient Moroccan stories, with the backdrop of a wood burning fire and the sound of an ancient oud played by a local musician. Heaven, truly heaven!

Villa des Orangers, In the heart of the medina, not far from the entry to the souks and the main square, two French brothers have transformed a historic riad, just twenty seven rooms and suites nestled in a rambling garden and small pools. Opening onto two courtyards—one of which has a swimming pool—the rooms and suites, each named for a local spice – think saffron, nutmeg, and turmeric, and decorated in rich gem shades.

Unpacking List: It’s not the things you take with you that define your Journey; it’s the experiences you have and the memories you bring home.