Secret Shopping. Hidden Silver Vaults, London

Beneath the nondescript sidewalk of Chancery Lane, The London Silver Vaults offers the largest museum grade collection of antique and contemporary silver in the world. The quiet neighborhood and unassuming entrance bely the underground vaults filled with private vendors selling to collectors and Those in the Know.

I’ve made attempts to visit, for over five years, bank holidays have thwarted each attempt – they close on bank holidays. I finally made an outing, which nearly required a new suitcase to tote my treasures home, they do ship!

The London Silver Vaults is a sizable subterranean market that opened as The Chancery Lane Safe Deposit in May 1885. Originally renting out strong rooms to hold household silver, jewels and important documents it transitioned to housing silver dealers in secure premises a few years later.

With 3.9 ft. thick walls lined with steel the vaults were never broken into. The building above the vaults was struck directly with a bomb during WWII, however, this did not damage the vaults at all, despite the building being destroyed. A new building, Chancery House, was constructed ten years later, and since 1953 it has been in its present format, with shops-based underground, each in their own vault, closed each night with massive metal doors.

Descend five levels below ground by elevator to enter a massive steel door into each private seller’s vault.  All the shops have been owned for at least 50 years by the same families. It is said that it has “the largest single collection of silver for sale in the world” contained within more than forty shops, the owners enjoy sharing their knowledge and are a wealth of information on the antique objects they offer.

Pieces date from the 1600s to present day, English silverware is recognized as the finest in the world due to the quality control of silver goods since the 12th century when the trade organization, Goldsmiths Hall, invented the term ‘hallmark.’ Silver experts are well versed in the different hallmarks. From silver tableware, fine silver cutlery, unique cocktail shakers, decorative pieces and gifts to jewelry and special collector items.

On my list were silver asparagus tongs and large bread forks. What – you don’t have asparagus tongs? Asparagus tongs are a specialized form of kitchen tongs dedicated to handling asparagus at the table. There are ones for eating asparagus and for serving it. Both types have fallen out of fashion, though both can still be purchased from specialized kitchenware and dinnerware dealers. Still in fashion at my table! I was unaware of single guest asparagus tongs, a prize in its original velvet box… I left this small fortune black velvet box accessory with the shop owner.

A few favorite vendors, plan to spend a day, half of Saturday wasn’t enough to browse all the treasures. As one of the original companies to open in The London Silver Vaults, David S Shure & Co are now fourth generation silver dealers who specialize in antique and modern silverware, old Sheffield plate and cutlery. David is a renowned specialist in British silverware from the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods and holds a keen interest in designer items from the latter part of the 20th century.

Vault One. David Shure. Our first stop where we spent much time with the dealer marveling at Victorian silver biscuit boxes which unfold with the touch of a button. Note to self: pay more attention to dining scenes in English period films!

He also has a grand collection of cocktail shakers, think of the elegant Thin Man series, Nick & Nora and Asta during their cocktail hour. The Thin Man opening scene – the slightly sloshed, yet debonair, William Powell as Nick Charles instructing a bartender: “The important thing is the rhythm! Always have rhythm in your shaking. Now a Manhattan you shake to fox-trot time; a bronx to two-step time; a dry martini, you always shake to waltz time.” Cocktails equaled glamor, elegance and style. My timeless Prohibition era cocktail shaker made in 1930 by International Silver fit into my carry on.

Vault 29. Established over 60 years ago, Silstar Antiques is a family run business with a long history of working in the famous London Silver Vaults. A traditional friendly dealer who likes to build trusted, lasting relationships with their clients, Silstar is proud to supply antique and modern silver to buyers and collectors around the world. They are best known for their large stock of antique silver goblets, some of which date back to the 16th century and typically carry over 100 goblets in stock at any one time. Silstar refreshes their stock of goods continually with new arrivals weekly.

Vault 31 & 32. Wax Antiques specialize in early English and continental silver from the 1600s onwards. Their impressive collection includes rare items from the Charles II period and earlier. Members of LAPADA, Wax antiques also offer an extensive stock of Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian silverware.

Lifestyle Management – Luxury Travel and Luxurious Lifestyle.

Highly Recommend!

Tangier Treasures, Where To Shop!

Camel Caravan Three had very specific goals: discover more old city Communal Ovens, meet basket weavers, photograph ancient communal water fountains and of course, browsing antiquarian shops and track down an exclusive cape boutique in Marrakech! The Tangier days of writers and poets and the Rolling Stones have filled tomes… Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote traveled and luxuriated in the 1950s and 1960s. If you haven’t begun your memoir on The Art of Living, you may want to contemplate a sojourn in Tangier.

Tangier, a city located at the northern tip of Morocco, is a captivating fusion of North African, Spanish, Portuguese, and French influences, making it a true crossroads of cultures with a rich Jewish heritage. Tangier medina, by Medina standards, has been restored and updated, it’s still a maze of shops, but the lack of motorbikes and fewer mules trotting the maze of alleyways make exploring a bit more civilized, still a mesmerizing array of goods, but you won’t feel trampled or run over!

The souk of straw weavers apparently closed after Covid, there was a small, scruffy block of shops opening after my departure, my initial disappointment was abated by our amazing guide, Mohammed. A former schoolteacher of history, we were immediately, Simpatico. Mustapha had resourced the brilliant Mohammed, he expressed my extreme disappointment on the straw weavers and shared my other interests…In Marrakech, just behind the Jenaa El Fna square, pass the snake charmers, spice vendors and street vendors, you will find a courtyard of straw weavers with every type of basket, placemats, bottle covers, a plethora of hand made straw objects. Every Wish must be Rewarded!

A short block of shops in Rue de la Liberte, across from the oldest hotel in Tangier produced delighted smiles. I planned to peek inside this famed historic hotel, and the two shops, owned by brothers, on my list, Galerie Tindouf and Bazar Tindouf were across the street.

Bazar Tindouf is in an ancient building which once housed the oldest Jewish bank in Tangier, black and white marble floors are visible, a maze of room upon rooms upstairs and hidden downstairs, holds many secrets. Galerie Tindoff is piled with Moroccan textiles, rarefied art, china and glassware – prepare to be overwhelmed and dusty by the glorious selection!

Mohammed advised me on the provenance of many paintings and steered me away from any non-Moroccan objects. The Galerie is a bit more organized; the Bazar is exactly as it sounds…think multiple floors, hallways piled with Spanish Art Nouveau tiles, small cavern like rooms crammed with pottery, textiles, silver, leather bags… I now know where the fabulous El Fenn finds their beautiful décor. I could have filled a crate. If you’ve perused Umberto Pasti’s beautiful architectural books on his Moroccan homes, you will be familiar with these decadent objects.

Poor Mustapha waits patiently while I rapturously poke through piles of vintage Berber jewelry and dust off antique silver objects. Besides a wonderful African beaded object – also seen at El Fenn, I uncovered an enormous silver ring with a carnelian intaglio surface of etched Arabic figures. Centuries before longhand, signet rings were the first tool nobility and aristocracy used to seal their names on letters and documents. Mohammed assisted in my bargaining, the well known owner is very knowledgeable and kind!

The venerable, El Minzah Hotel, across the street, is a historic location, once the top hotel in Tangier, was a favorite hotel of many dignitaries, politicians, and Hollywood stars. Its architecture, fountains and orange trees create a charming atmosphere. Pop in for an afternoon mint tea, soak in the sunshine and enjoy clear views of the Gibraltar Strait and the coast of Spain from the garden terrace. A refreshing sit down after treasure hunting! The Bazar owner’s daughter has a contemporary gallery closer to the medina.

Kasbah Collective. Opened in 2021, Kasbah Collective mixes Moroccan crafts and textiles, fashion, and homewares – hip and chic. Kasbah Collective is more than just a concept store and gallery nestled in Tangier’s emerging, vibrant neighborhood. Their statement of purpose: a haven of curated beauty and art, a dynamic space standing proudly at the intersection of Bab el Kasbah and Rue Kacem Geunnoun. Their mission: to champion authentic artistry and conscious consumption, bridging the gap between local artisans.

Boutique Majid. Opened in 1970, the three story, Boutique Majid, is much more than just an antique boutique. It is a rare and informed collection of textiles and jewelry, silk, and glass, be prepared to delve into the deep histories of Tangier and Morocco. Carpets stacked to the ceiling; the treasures can be overwhelming! Owned by the legendary and knowledgeable, Abdelmajid Rais El Fenni, this boutique reflects travelling and exploring with passion.

Las Chicas. Just outside the old Medina walls, the two-story shop named Las Chicas after the two innovative women who opened the first concept store in Tangier. Shop till you drop here and visit the tearoom cafe for a respite! Elegant and colorful lanterns and candles, pillows and blankets, vintage jewelry, brilliant hued kaftans, tassels, and woven leather handbags.

Madini Fragrance. Where else can you find the heavenly scent of orange blossoms, dates, and jasmine oils? Tangier in a bottle of oil, recreate the experience when you are home.  Near the Café de Paris.

Topolina. Just down a narrow passageway from my dining favorite El Morocco Club café, you will find a whitewashed building with a hot pink interior! The owner, French designer Isabelle Topolina, is passionate about color! You’ll find fun fabrics, a collection of vintage fabrics in clothes for men and women. The Tangier outpost consists of three small rooms bursting with exuberant hues and quirky fashions. 

Reading List Tangier An inspired collection to inspire your Journey!