More Fever Dreams – VILLA FAYOUM Egypt

Egypt is still very busy despite the unrest in the Iran and surrounding areas. I am plotting a return visit over winter to see more of what I missed on my first Journey. My love of Morocco, which offers ancient architecture juxtaposed with modern life, iconic bustling souks, spices and traditional tea culture is mutual in Egypt. Both historically rich Northern Africa nations with vast Sahara Desert landscapes, similar vibrant Arab influenced culture and Muslim cultures. Warm hospitality is extended in both countries; I have always felt very safe traveling here.

You may have read my post on my upcoming visit to Al Moudira Hotel near Luxor. In reading and resourcing more of all that is Egypt, I’ve found another intriguing Oasis in Egypt! A sister hotel of Al Moudira in Fayoum.

A mere 2 hours from the chaos that is Cairo, discover a cool haven, peaceful and calm, the opposite of colorful Cairo. Fayoum is the largest oasis in Egypt and the closest to the Nile and to Cairo.  Lake Qarun was formed about 70,000 years ago when the Nile flooded the depression that now occupies the region of Fayoum. Today, the channels that connect it to the river feed the lake. Fayoum feels like an ancient village, another era. Walk through the open farmland, where you may meet farmers tending their land, water buffalos cooling in the irrigation channels, birds fly overhead calling and singing– the ancient rhythm hasn’t changed much over the centuries. Villagers travel by donkey carts, on horseback or in motorized tuk tuks. Tunis Village is an artistic and tranquil village in the Fayoum Oasis.

The oases have historically represented what was called “the garden of Egypt” and still today they produce a large quantity of fruit and vegetables, contributing to a particularly important percentage of the food needs of the whole of Egypt.

And where will I dream? In the charming Siwa Suite at Villa Fayoum! A magical villa in the heart of Fayoum, overlooking Qaroun Lake, where tranquility meets wonder!

VILLA FAYOUM sits in the midst of charming Tunis village just two hours South West of Cairo in Fayoum, nestled within a verdant 6000 sq meter garden. A historic 12-room villa surrounded by mature palms which shade a 16 meter golden granite and Sinai-marble pool cushioned amid abundant local flora.

There are views of the lake from the villa which, along with its adjacent houses, was sensitively restored using traditional materials and salvaged craftwork.  The villa’s interiors have also been imagined and designed by Al Moudira’s founder Zeina Aboukheir. They have the same rich and eclectic style Zeina is known for, featuring handpicked vintage textiles, art and antiques that come together effortlessly, layering different historic eras and creative global cultures.

And, as at their other property, Al Moudira, guests will eat well. The Moudira Farm Kitchen  Chef Gioconda Scott, has been brought to Villa Fayoum to craft menus and train local chefs.  Similar to Moudira’s style, ingredients will be provisioned locally. Born and raised in Andalucia, Gioconda first acquired her cooking skills assisting in the kitchen of Trasierra, her family home turned exclusive private hotel, and then studying in Italy. She worked with Argentine celebrity chef Francis Mallmann for over 4 years, running his Restaurant Garzon in Uruguay. If you haven’t dined at a Mallmann restaurant, another pilgrimage needs to be organized. Our good pals offer private experiences with the King of Fire! A true nature-to-table philosophy to life. The menus will shift with the seasons, expect delicious Middle East dishes that are simple, local, and full of character.

Tunis Village is famous for its pottery; you’ll find shop after shop with beautiful ceramics. This heritage craft began when the village was visited by a Swiss woman who lived here and began a small school to teach locals. You’ll find remnants of the potter Evelyne Porret who created an artistic hub in the 1980’s. The school led to a complete conversion to craft, and the village hosts more than twenty-five pottery workshops and showrooms, whose products are also sold in Cairo, London, and New York. Training generations of Egyptian artists, the town evolved into a contemporary pottery mecca, attracting many artists; walk through its narrow alleys decorated with abundant murals, the architecture mimics the small school that Evelyne Porret built. Whimsical glazed pottery can be found at galleries on the renamed Evelyne Street. Tucked away in Fayoum’s artistic heart, Skylark Art Gallery is a quiet gem for anyone who appreciates nature-inspired luxury. Other pottery shops with vibrant hand painted pottery and workshops line Evelyne Street near the village gate. Many famous writers, intellectuals, artists and architects visited and remained, thus was born the intellectual community that is now Tunis.

Tunis Village

Other local attractions: The Monastery of the Archangel Gabriel at Naqlun, located just 16 km southeast of Fayoum. Dating back to the 5th century, this peaceful desert retreat is still home to a small community of monks who follow centuries-old traditions. The monastery is known for its well-preserved frescoes, ancient wooden doors, and archaeological discoveries that have provided insight into early Christian life in Egypt. Visitors can explore the main church, admire its intricate carvings, and walk through the surrounding ruins of monastic cells.

Bird Watching. The lake is an important bird nesting area where thousands of migratory birds rest during their winter migration pattern, including large numbers of flamingos. Other birds that can easily be spotted in the area are kingfishers, egrets and larks, ducks, gulls, moorhens and many wintering waders at the western side of Lake Qarun. Little owls, kestrels and black winged kites are Fayoumi residents and easy to spot on palm trees or telegraph wires. Wintering Wanderers – My Love Language, like the birds…

Highly Recommend, Egypt!

A Moorish Dream in Luxor Al Moudira Hotel

Where I want to go…my end of year Journey to Papua New Guinea concluded with a dramatic cyclone which set me off on a 25 hour schlepp home, my thirst for travel has not diminished one teeny bit!

Travel feeds my soul, a six-week Journey or longer is perfect for me…I build in down time, jet lag feels more manageable and I cover thousands of miles seeking out the newest hotels, guides and exclusive experiences.

On my diary list, a return to Egypt, like Morocco, its raw customs lure me back. Both countries share a complex cultural past woven from a tapestry of history, heritage and in Egypt, historical figures including pharaohs and queens. Known for monumental building projects and political leadership and military campaigns.

A Moorish Dream: Al Moudira Hotel, in Luxor, is calling to me!! In Arabic, Al Moudira is feminine for ‘the boss’, the name workers and artisans gave to Zeina Aboukheir, who in 1999, originally conceived this haven of tranquility. Situated on a lush estate of almost 8 hectares on Luxor’s west bank, Relais & Châteaux, Al Moudira Hotel is in close proximity to the renowned Valley of the Kings. Its spacious guest rooms and suites furnished with an eclectic mix of treasures sourced throughout the Middle East, open onto enchanting courtyards featuring trickling fountains. Beyond the ornate patios, stroll through shady gardens of palm trees, lemon trees and hibiscus toward the marble-clad swimming pool and hammam. Enjoy meals in either the beautiful Ottoman room, in the main courtyard or at the poolside pavilion, prepared using the freshest ingredients from Al Moudira’s own farm. Time slows down, matching the gentle flow of the River Nile.

Only 54 suites, rooms and new Villas on property, on the quieter west bank. No two rooms are the same, the newish Villas designed by Egyptian architect Olivier Sednaoui and a small army of local artisans, built a mini village of Moorish mansions, which feel authentically ancient. One of which, Villa Zeina, was Aboukheir’s home for 22 years, and boasts the hand-painted frescoes that make so many of the hotel’s rooms charmingly unique.

Modern Luxor is also known as the world’s greatest open-air museum. It contains the ruins of the temples of Karnak and Luxor. The Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, ancient burial grounds, lie nearby – these are where the ritual burials of the Pharaohs took place. To avoid feeling rushed in Luxor, you’ll need at least two days to explore its treasures. 

Although I cruised the Nile to Luxor, I was on board during my visit to the Valley of the Kings. Luxor’s airport is a convenient 40 minutes away.

Nile Travel: Set Nefru, their 37-metre dahabiya, a traditional Nile sailing boat, is moored nearby and ready for your private charter. One of the few early 20th century boats still in service on the Nile, Set Nefru has recently been lovingly restored. The boat now boasts five luxury cabins, is fully crewed and is available as a private charter for long or short cruises.

Egypt: Highly Recommend! More than once!