On my first visit to Mérida passing Plaza Mayor, we slowly circled through a vast cemetery, the oldest in Mérida, Cementerio General. If you like moseying through old cemeteries, this one is a particular treasure. It is the largest and oldest in Mérida and is graced with a few very spectacular headstones and mausoleums of wealthy Hacienda owners.
I am fascinated by cemeteries all over the world, a treasure trove of stories reside in these quiet reverential final burial places. Filled with history, ornate graves and personal stories. There is a word to describe people drawn to cemeteries: taphophile. The word cemetery is from Greek etymology – derived from a word which literally means sleeping chamber or burial place. Cemeteries are often considered places of peace; it has always been conveyed that they are places of rest and serenity.
A resting place, built in 1821 and is the largest cemetery in Mérida, lined with tree filled avenues and over 25,000 ornate burial sites. It is a historic, culturally rich cemetery known for its impressive mausoleums, striking architecture, and stories of famous local. The life size intricately carved stone, was mostly carved by accomplished stone cutters from Europe. The Cementerio mimics community life, the wide main avenue is lined by the houses/mausoleums of the wealthy, the casta divina families. Many historic people are buried here, and its memorials are built in Greek, Gothic or French neoclassic styles, often from stone or granite brought from Europe by local wealthy families. They range from classically beautiful to over-the-top displays of wealth, and deeper in the back you will find simple but colorful houses of the dead, all filled with restos – remains. The more humble resting place of the local folk.
Humberto, my guide, led me to a remarkable mausoleum, a shrine to a wealthy Hacienda patron. An enormous full size bed, layered with rippled linen sheets of hand carved marble, is elevated about five feet off the ground. Standing alongside the bed is a elegantly dressed woman, Rosa Benet, gently lifting the corner of the sheet to gaze at her husband, Alvaro Medina Rodriguez, who passed away while she was at a gala. The story is that he had persuaded her to go and enjoy the evening, she protested, but went and missed saying a last goodbye to her beloved husband. The work was an imitation of the work of Mexican sculptor Almo Strenta.
Rosa Benet, gazing at her husband, Alvaro Medina Rodriguez, Cementerio General – Mérida 1905
Mérida Cemetery
Mérida Cemetery
Often described as beautiful but also somewhat haunting, offering a glimpse into Mérida’s history and societal divisions. One surprise was the grave of an intrepid American woman, Alma Reed, who had a love affair with Governor Felipe Carillo Puerte. He, a Socialist, doing much to reform and improve the lives of the Mayan workers, was assassinated with some of his brothers and Socialist colleagues. His mausoleum is on a large circular corner, the “Rotonda de los Hombres Ilustres” (Rotunda of Illustrious Men). It includes a memorial area for prominent socialists. His fiancée, journalist Alma Reed, is buried directly across the corner. Imagine in 1924, a single woman traveling by train from San Francisco to the Yucatán coast.
The Governor was in the midst of a divorce and was engaged to Alma, who was a writer for several New York and San Francisco newspapers. Alma was in San Francisco buying her wedding dress when he was assassinated. Crushed by the death of her lover and fiancée, she asked to be buried near him. Her grave is across the street from his, lovers separated by a wide road. Her story is quite unique, I encourage you to read her story or in the several books published about her life.
Alma Reed
Many of the graves were designed and built to mirror the very European style of the homes of the deceased. The wealthy Mérida residents replicated their residences offering a gentle transition from life to the ever after. Much of the materials like the grand old buildings came from Europe. Intricate crosses, statues of figures pointing skyward, angels of silence, all symbolic.
Reports of wandering ghosts of the deceased are popular. Day of the Dead in October is celebrated for days with elaborate recreations of favorite foods of the deceased. Other posts on Mérida. Highly Recommend!
Not many of our Mexico aficionados have explored the Yucatán. If you are mesmerized by culture and history and pyramids without crowds, Mérida founded by the Spanish in the 1500’s and constructed by stones from Mayan ruins should be on your travel list! My first Journey was in 2017 and I am anxious to return and explore more.
A dynamic fusion of colonial influences and Maya heritage makes the Yucatán Peninsula a wonderfully diverse destination. The delightful state capital is Mérida, a gorgeous colonial city of traditional markets, idyllic squares, and a commercial hub. Catedral de San Ildefonso, one of the oldest churches in the Americas dating back to 1598). The Yucatán’s capital, Mérida, is an unhurried city of pastel crayon colored 19th Century Spanish Colonial mansions and traditional squares accented by popular public parks. One of the safest cities in Mexico, not only is it an architectural gem, it treasures its Mayan heritage. Folk dancing takes place on the closed off historic square on Saturday nights, and bike riding can be enjoyed in Paseo Montejo, which is closed to cars on Sundays. Mérida was founded in 1542 and was named after the town of Mérida in Extremadura Spain. The city was built on the site of the Maya city of “Tho.” Tho had been a center of Mayan culture for centuries and because of this, some historians consider Mérida the oldest continually occupied city in the Americas.
In the wider area, visitors can explore some of the world’s best archaeological sites including New Wonder of the World, Chichen Itza. Outdoors adventures come in the form of freshwater, underground cenotes and the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, home to a diverse range of tropical wildlife. Paradise is in the white sands and blue seas of Yucatan’s Caribbean coast. Stay at our recommended hotels for easy access to Mérida’s museum and fine dining and then add a week at a private Hacienda.
Merida
Merida
Merida
Merida
Merida
I stayed at the biosphere resort Chablé Yucatán (or at least dine at their fabulous Ix’im restaurant). On the Riviera Maya, there’s also Hotel Esencia and Maroma. In town, in the heart of Mérida, we recommend Casa Lecanda: a stunning restoration project in the heart of Mérida, this hotel exudes historic charm and is elegantly designed to bring the tranquility of the Caribbean to your stay in the city. Built around a central courtyard with a beautiful pool, the entire property seems to flow from one space to the next. There are also luscious gardens throughout, an elegant dining space (where breakfast is served), and various hammocks strategically placed throughout where an afternoon siesta can easily be enjoyed.
Maya civilization is one of the seven founding cultures of mankind, along with Babylon, Egypt, and Greece. The Mayans created a writing system and documented astronomical cycles, the history of lineages, and their worldview. More than two thousand archeological remains are buried in the tropical forest, showing us the sophisticated architecture they had.
We would suggest starting your Journey here and ending in a restored private Hacienda. Our haciendas and villas are destinations themselves. Endowed with expansive spaces and a delightful atmosphere and will make you feel at home. Secluded in the Mayan forest, the haciendas provide a dialogue between old and modern architecture. Privacy and warm attention, garden-to-table cuisine, and a catalog of soothing activities are some of the treats of this scenario.
At the turn of the century, merchants who had grown rich on the trade in sisal rope brought great wealth to Mérida. The city retains a European feel, with many of the older buildings built from French bricks and tiles, brought over as ballast in trading ships. Like the rest of the peninsula, it had little effective contact with central Mexico until the 1960s and looked to Europe for influence, thus the stark difference in character and style from most of other popular Mexican cities. From colonial times through the mid-19th century, Mérida was a walled city intended to protect the residents from periodic revolts by the indigenous Maya. Three of the original seven old Spanish city gates survive, but modern day Mérida has expanded well beyond the old city walls. The exposed brick streets were originally brought from Spain as ballast in the sailing ships, sailors replaced the ballast with ink wood harvested in Mérida.
A few days in Mérida itinerary: day one, enjoy a walking tour of Mérida, a city where a fascinating history and a vibrant culture seamlessly come together. Your journey commences at the renowned Plaza Grande, which is encompassed by colonial-style architecture and the awe-inspiring Mérida Cathedral. As you meander through the lively Mercado Lucas de Gálvez, you will be treated to a sensory feast of vibrant colors and enticing aromas, showcasing the local crafts and cuisine. Your exploration continues along the elegant Paseo de Montejo, adorned with majestic mansions and sculptures that echo the city’s opulent past.
Lastly, you will have the opportunity to admire the Monumento a la Patria, a monumental tribute to the rich history of Mexico, located along the Paseo de Montejo. You will later be returned to your hotel.
Day two: after breakfast, meet your guide and proceed towards cenote Kankirixche and Yalutzil, where enthralling underground expeditions await. As the sun’s rays gently penetrate the dense foliage of the jungle, you make your way down into the cavern’s refreshing depths, unveiling a captivating pool with a mesmerizing turquoise hue. Delicate stalactites gracefully hang from the cave’s ceiling, casting an otherworldly ambiance. The pristine waters, transparent as crystal, entice you for a revitalizing swim, while the abundant and diverse wildlife that envelops the cenote only enhances its irresistible charm. After time for lunch, you’ll make your way to Uxmal, one of many exquisite Mayan splendors. As you wander amidst the impeccably conserved temples, become fully engrossed in the architectural wonders of the Pyramid of the Magician, Governor’s Palace, and Nunnery Quadrangle. The intricately carved stones and elaborate designs proudly display the remarkable engineering and artistic skills of the Mayan civilization. You will end today back at your hotel for the rest of the day at leisure.
Get ready to step into a world of vibrant color and rich history as you journey to Izamal, affectionately known as “The Yellow City” of Yucatán. Nestled in the heart of the Yucatán Peninsula, Izamal beckons with its striking colonial architecture, ancient Mayan pyramids, and warm hospitality. You’ll visit the Convento de San Antonio, a remarkable colonial monastery, as well as the enchanting pyramid. The streets paved with cobblestones emit a serene allure, beckoning visitors to explore the nearby markets and artisanal boutiques. After some time for lunch, immerse yourself in the vibrant creativity of Izamal’s artistic community, where past and present converge in celebration of imagination and skill. The amiable locals and the town’s distinctive fusion of Mayan and colonial elements combine to offer an indelible encounter, rendering Izamal a concealed treasure yearning to be unearthed.
Delving into the mysterious Loltun Caves is a mesmerizing expedition into the depths of Mayan history. The softly illuminated caverns unveil breathtaking stalactite formations, exposing the age-old mysteries hidden within the limestone walls. Explorers navigate through the subterranean passages, immersing themselves in the enchanting atmosphere. These caves act as a time capsule, providing a glimpse into the spiritual and ceremonial customs of the Mayan civilization, transforming this visit into an enlightening educational journey.
Continue on a trip to Hacienda Tabi in the southern region of Yucatán, which offers a captivating experience of both history and natural beauty. Nestled amidst vibrant foliage and remarkable architectural structures, this hacienda provides an immersive encounter with the cultural legacy of the Yucatán Peninsula. Delve into the ancient citrus groves, where you can marvel at the abundance of orange, lime, and tangerine trees. To culminate your visit, join a local family in the preparation of a delectable traditional Yucatecan delicacy: Cochinita Pibil, crafted with locally sourced organic ingredients.
The following day begin with the majestic pyramid, El Castillo, dominates the expansive archaeological site of Chichen Itzá, showcasing elaborate carvings and remarkable astronomical accuracy. Exploring the Great Ball Court and marveling at the enigmatic Caracol observatory offers valuable glimpses into the ancient Mayan civilization. Additionally, the Temple of the Warriors impresses with its grand columns, while the sacred Cenote Sagrado adds an element of intrigue.
Uxmal, The Pyramid of the Magician
Valladolid is a charming colonial city nestled in the heart of the Yucatán Peninsula. This small, yet vibrant city is known for its colonial architecture, including the San Servacio Church and the Convent of San Bernardino de Siena. Valladolid presents a diverse fusion of historical and cultural elements. Exploring the city center, you’ll encounter colorful colonial-era architecture, cobbled streets,and picturesque plazas. The local gastronomy, showcasing Yucatecan delicacies, further enriches the cultural immersion.
On your way back you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy Cenote Yokdzonot, a stunning natural sinkhole located near the town of Yokdzonot, approximately 7 kilometers south of the city of Valladolid. Cenote Yokdzonot is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. The cenote is nestled within a cenote ecotourism park, where visitors can enjoy the tranquility of the natural surroundings. Afterward, you’ll continue back to Merida for the rest of the day at leisure.
Not only is Mérida a wonderful draw on its own, the central location is the perfect starting point to explore the Mayan Route of ruins, cenotes (underwater sinkholes with crystal clear water), and refurbished haciendas. Some of the haciendas are private residences and we have access to the best of the best!
HOW TO GET TO Mérida & Yucatán. Visitors can fly into Merida International Airport, which is situated just over 10km from Mérida city center. The journey should take around 20 minutes by car.
Are Mérida & Yucatán Safe? The US. Department of State has said travel to Yucatán is okay.
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