Exclusive Yves Saint Laurent, Dar el-Hanch – Marrakech

Join us for an Exclusive Journey in Marrakech, to the original home of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, Very few visitors are allowed in this private home, but we are! Last winter, an utterly serendipitous meeting in Morocco led me directly to the lacquered red door of the captivating owner, an American woman who owns the first home of YSL and his partner Pierre Bergé. I was giddy with excitement and enchanted after spending the morning sipping tea on a sun-filled terrace in the magical historic home. We are pen-pals and I hope to see her again in Marrakech or in the states. She is an absolute delight and a superb conversationalist.

Waiting to visit Dar el-Hanch, Marrakech!

Explore the first home of YSL, Dar el-Hanch, with our exceptional Moroccan team. It’s possible to meet the owner, it’s possible to spend a private morning sipping tea, it’s possible to organize a private sunset cocktail event or a decadent evening absorbing the energy of Yves Saint Laurent. We are thrilled to share this Exclusive Experience in Marrakech.

The Story.  It’s well-known by fashionistas that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, lived in Morocco, enjoying many happy years in Marrakech and Tangier, leaving tangible homes and gardens infused with the dazzling style and color known to YSL.

In 1966, they arrived Marrakech and for many years, lived at the now famed La Mamounia before buying their first home. La Mamounia was a much humbler, yet slightly luxurious hotel at the time.

Marrakech was an inspiration, YSL was in lust with the colors, the light and the culture. He was raised in Algeria, and some say he was reminded of the Maghreb of his youth. Marrakech was a place to recharge his batteries, an exotic city with endless inspiration. He has been quoted:  “Marrakech has opened me to colour.”

Our Exclusive Story. What most travelers are unaware of, is the story of their first modest home in Marrakech, Dar el-Hanch, Arabic for ‘House of the Serpent‘. Last winter, I had the serendipitous good fortune of spending half a day at this charming home in the Marrakech Medina with the current owner. She has lived here for years, with the original hand drawn and painted coiled serpent painting on the dining room wall, painted by YSL. A ubiquitous symbol in his work, in jewelry, note cards and fashion. The painted serpent is mesmerizing. Gardens infused with climbing vines, melodic fountains, exotic colorful tile terraces and staircases. Moroccan architecture reflecting the history of the country, even in this humble home, include open arches gazing down on colorful mosaic tile-work floors. Moroccan style isn’t lost at Dar el-Hanch, intricate patterned brick fireplaces, colorful tiled walls, a typical Moroccan home is centered around a center tiled or marbled courtyard. A cooling breeze floats through the top floor terrace, covered in blooming vines, stately palms feather in the neighbor gardens. Interior windows are framed with the intricate carved wood lattice panels, known as Mashrabiya screens, providing privacy and a cool breeze.

Dar el-Hanch, was unpretentiously furnished by YSL and Pierre Bergé. Yet it provided a true sense of liberation behind the high walls, a small garden filled with orange blossoms, flowering vines and towering palm trees. It became a meeting place of creatives: Andy Warhol, Mick and Bianca Jagger.

Make a YSL pilgrimage to Marrakech, visit the rarely open to the public, Dar el-Hanch and continue onward with a private guide for a tour of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The museum opened in 2017 to much fanfare, as the French designer regularly celebrated his love for Marrakech and the inspiration it gave his work.

You and your guide will then go next door for a tour of the famously blue Jardin Majorelle, a botanical fantasy designed by Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. It was given to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé by the city of Marrakech when they purchased Villa Oasis. The couple spent much of their time devotedly restoring the space, we can also arrange this as a private experience.

This colorful corner of Marrakech also includes the small but equally important, Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Celebrating the heritage of the original nomadic Moroccans.

Next, experience an exclusive, private visit to the exquisite retreat of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé: the Villa Oasis. The former home of the French expat artist Jacques Majorelle, Villa Oasis was acquired by the couple in the 1980s, and they spent part of every year at their treasured sanctuary until their deaths.

The villa interiors include pieces that Majorelle painted, as well as many traditional Moroccan elements such as hand painted tiled floors, coffered ceilings, and intricate stencil and metalwork and arched doors. The rooms are also home to an incredible private collection of books, paintings and works of art amassed by the couple over the years.

Linger on a hidden bench in the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle, a glamorous space decorated with rare plants in the iconic blues and yellows that are synonymous with YSL’s  life in Marrakech. Surrounded by the soft reverberations of dribbling fountains and birdsong, we can arrange a private lunch in the garden for you and your friends. We may have other local professionals who can join and share their direct knowledge of this fascinating couple.

More here, A Moroccan Passion translated by my new friend, José Abete.

In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Bergé recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. Bergé awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. Photos of Dar el-Hanch are included in this beautiful book.

Mérida – Spices, Mayan Ruins, Cemeteries & Dining!

I’m still obsessing over Mérida, Mexico! Mérida is the capital of the state of Yucatán, in the far east of Mexico. The Maya people have survived invasion, enslavement, disease and oppression and make up a substantial part of the population. Situated in the north east of the flat Yucatán peninsula, this can be a stop-off from the Caribbean beaches several hours away, and is close to the world-famous Mayan Indian ruins at Chichen Itz and Uxmal. It is a city of narrow streets, shady park squares, concealed courtyards and crumbling colonial buildings.

Mérida, Mexico!

One mustn’t miss the Central Plaza with the charming park square. Plaza Mayor, which is flanked by some of the city’s oldest and most impressive buildings, is closed off to traffic on Sundays, except for horse-drawn buggies and tourists riding in cycle rickshaws. Elderly women and young teens queue to sit at simple cafes and eat warm tortillas stuffed with blackened turkey, refried beans and salsa. On hot afternoons, patrons line up at the oldest ice-cream shop below the shaded colonnade.

Not far from the Plaza Mayor, don’t miss an exploration of Mérida’s main market, a massive covered, but not air conditioned, market. In two immense joined halls plus rows of ancillary stalls around the periphery, more than two thousand vendors sell their wares. It’s an interesting collection of vendors, from freshly hacked-up cows, pigs and fish to hand-tooled leather shoes and bags to numerous varieties of spices, vegetables, fruits, and home housewares; truly an exotic collection of everything a local might need, all under a massive covered field of small stalls. Arrive before noon to avoid the heat and to see the most abundant piles of vegetables and fruits. It is massive and should be explored with a guide if you have a particular need in mind. I always search for local spices or honey.

Spices from Mérida’s main market

The Mayan ruins of Uxmal

The Mayan ruins of Uxmal

And, of course, a few hours out of town lie some of the country’s most spectacular Mayan sites. I spent a few days with the most amazing guides and driver – one day wandering Mérida and the new Mondo Maya Museum, the winding brick lined streets of the old town, lunching at an authentic restaurant and perusing a few local shops. One day should be devoted to seeing the ruins of Uxmal and then perhaps lunching and swimming at a nearby private Hacienda.

Mérida, Mexico Cementerio General

As we drove to the Plaza Mayor, we slowly passed through a vast cemetery, the  oldest Cementerio General. If you like moseying through old cemeteries, this one is a particular treasure. It is the largest and oldest in Mérida and is graced with a few very spectacular headstones and mausoleums of wealthy Hacienda owners. One surprise was the grave of an intrepid American woman, Alma Reed, who had a love affair with Governor Felipe Carillo Puerte. He, a Socialist, doing much to reform the and improve the lives of the Mayan workers, was assassinated with some of his brothers and Socialist colleagues. Alma who was a writer for several New York and San Francisco newspapers, was in San Francisco buying her wedding dress when he was assassinated. Crushed by the death of her lover and fiance, she asked to be buried near him. Her grave is across the street from his, lovers separated by a wide road. Her story is quite unique, I encourage you to  find her story online or in the several books published about her life. Fully post on this amazing Cemetery.

Mérida is also becoming a capital for foodie’s. Roberto Solis who cooks at and owns Nectar has trod the kitchens of famed Noma, Per Se and traveled to Japan to work under the famed Chef Narisawa. His small restaurant is big on creative delicious cuisine, described as The New Yucatecan Cuisine, incorporating local spices and regional specialties. Highly recommend!

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Nectar Restaurant Merida