Exclusive Yves Saint Laurent, Dar el-Hanch – Marrakech

Join us for an Exclusive Journey in Marrakech, to the original home of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, Very few visitors are allowed in this private home, but we are! Last winter, an utterly serendipitous meeting in Morocco led me directly to the lacquered red door of the captivating owner, an American woman who owns the first home of YSL and his partner Pierre Bergé. I was giddy with excitement and enchanted after spending the morning sipping tea on a sun-filled terrace in the magical historic home. We are pen-pals and I hope to see her again in Marrakech or in the states. She is an absolute delight and a superb conversationalist.

Waiting to visit Dar el-Hanch, Marrakech!

Explore the first home of YSL, Dar el-Hanch, with our exceptional Moroccan team. It’s possible to meet the owner, it’s possible to spend a private morning sipping tea, it’s possible to organize a private sunset cocktail event or a decadent evening absorbing the energy of Yves Saint Laurent. We are thrilled to share this Exclusive Experience in Marrakech.

The Story.  It’s well-known by fashionistas that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, lived in Morocco, enjoying many happy years in Marrakech and Tangier, leaving tangible homes and gardens infused with the dazzling style and color known to YSL.

In 1966, they arrived Marrakech and for many years, lived at the now famed La Mamounia before buying their first home. La Mamounia was a much humbler, yet slightly luxurious hotel at the time.

Marrakech was an inspiration, YSL was in lust with the colors, the light and the culture. He was raised in Algeria, and some say he was reminded of the Maghreb of his youth. Marrakech was a place to recharge his batteries, an exotic city with endless inspiration. He has been quoted:  “Marrakech has opened me to colour.”

Our Exclusive Story. What most travelers are unaware of, is the story of their first modest home in Marrakech, Dar el-Hanch, Arabic for ‘House of the Serpent‘. Last winter, I had the serendipitous good fortune of spending half a day at this charming home in the Marrakech Medina with the current owner. She has lived here for years, with the original hand drawn and painted coiled serpent painting on the dining room wall, painted by YSL. A ubiquitous symbol in his work, in jewelry, note cards and fashion. The painted serpent is mesmerizing. Gardens infused with climbing vines, melodic fountains, exotic colorful tile terraces and staircases. Moroccan architecture reflecting the history of the country, even in this humble home, include open arches gazing down on colorful mosaic tile-work floors. Moroccan style isn’t lost at Dar el-Hanch, intricate patterned brick fireplaces, colorful tiled walls, a typical Moroccan home is centered around a center tiled or marbled courtyard. A cooling breeze floats through the top floor terrace, covered in blooming vines, stately palms feather in the neighbor gardens. Interior windows are framed with the intricate carved wood lattice panels, known as Mashrabiya screens, providing privacy and a cool breeze.

Dar el-Hanch, was unpretentiously furnished by YSL and Pierre Bergé. Yet it provided a true sense of liberation behind the high walls, a small garden filled with orange blossoms, flowering vines and towering palm trees. It became a meeting place of creatives: Andy Warhol, Mick and Bianca Jagger.

Make a YSL pilgrimage to Marrakech, visit the rarely open to the public, Dar el-Hanch and continue onward with a private guide for a tour of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The museum opened in 2017 to much fanfare, as the French designer regularly celebrated his love for Marrakech and the inspiration it gave his work.

You and your guide will then go next door for a tour of the famously blue Jardin Majorelle, a botanical fantasy designed by Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. It was given to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé by the city of Marrakech when they purchased Villa Oasis. The couple spent much of their time devotedly restoring the space, we can also arrange this as a private experience.

This colorful corner of Marrakech also includes the small but equally important, Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Celebrating the heritage of the original nomadic Moroccans.

Next, experience an exclusive, private visit to the exquisite retreat of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé: the Villa Oasis. The former home of the French expat artist Jacques Majorelle, Villa Oasis was acquired by the couple in the 1980s, and they spent part of every year at their treasured sanctuary until their deaths.

The villa interiors include pieces that Majorelle painted, as well as many traditional Moroccan elements such as hand painted tiled floors, coffered ceilings, and intricate stencil and metalwork and arched doors. The rooms are also home to an incredible private collection of books, paintings and works of art amassed by the couple over the years.

Linger on a hidden bench in the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle, a glamorous space decorated with rare plants in the iconic blues and yellows that are synonymous with YSL’s  life in Marrakech. Surrounded by the soft reverberations of dribbling fountains and birdsong, we can arrange a private lunch in the garden for you and your friends. We may have other local professionals who can join and share their direct knowledge of this fascinating couple.

More here, A Moroccan Passion translated by my new friend, José Abete.

In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Bergé recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. Bergé awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. Photos of Dar el-Hanch are included in this beautiful book.

Secret Shopping. Hidden Silver Vaults, London

Beneath the nondescript sidewalk of Chancery Lane, The London Silver Vaults offers the largest museum grade collection of antique and contemporary silver in the world. The quiet neighborhood and unassuming entrance bely the underground vaults filled with private vendors selling to collectors and Those in the Know.

I’ve made attempts to visit, for over five years, bank holidays have thwarted each attempt – they close on bank holidays. I finally made an outing, which nearly required a new suitcase to tote my treasures home, they do ship!

The London Silver Vaults is a sizable subterranean market that opened as The Chancery Lane Safe Deposit in May 1885. Originally renting out strong rooms to hold household silver, jewels and important documents it transitioned to housing silver dealers in secure premises a few years later.

With 3.9 ft. thick walls lined with steel the vaults were never broken into. The building above the vaults was struck directly with a bomb during WWII, however, this did not damage the vaults at all, despite the building being destroyed. A new building, Chancery House, was constructed ten years later, and since 1953 it has been in its present format, with shops-based underground, each in their own vault, closed each night with massive metal doors.

Descend five levels below ground by elevator to enter a massive steel door into each private seller’s vault.  All the shops have been owned for at least 50 years by the same families. It is said that it has “the largest single collection of silver for sale in the world” contained within more than forty shops, the owners enjoy sharing their knowledge and are a wealth of information on the antique objects they offer.

Pieces date from the 1600s to present day, English silverware is recognized as the finest in the world due to the quality control of silver goods since the 12th century when the trade organization, Goldsmiths Hall, invented the term ‘hallmark.’ Silver experts are well versed in the different hallmarks. From silver tableware, fine silver cutlery, unique cocktail shakers, decorative pieces and gifts to jewelry and special collector items.

On my list were silver asparagus tongs and large bread forks. What – you don’t have asparagus tongs? Asparagus tongs are a specialized form of kitchen tongs dedicated to handling asparagus at the table. There are ones for eating asparagus and for serving it. Both types have fallen out of fashion, though both can still be purchased from specialized kitchenware and dinnerware dealers. Still in fashion at my table! I was unaware of single guest asparagus tongs, a prize in its original velvet box… I left this small fortune black velvet box accessory with the shop owner.

A few favorite vendors, plan to spend a day, half of Saturday wasn’t enough to browse all the treasures. As one of the original companies to open in The London Silver Vaults, David S Shure & Co are now fourth generation silver dealers who specialize in antique and modern silverware, old Sheffield plate and cutlery. David is a renowned specialist in British silverware from the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods and holds a keen interest in designer items from the latter part of the 20th century.

Vault One. David Shure. Our first stop where we spent much time with the dealer marveling at Victorian silver biscuit boxes which unfold with the touch of a button. Note to self: pay more attention to dining scenes in English period films!

He also has a grand collection of cocktail shakers, think of the elegant Thin Man series, Nick & Nora and Asta during their cocktail hour. The Thin Man opening scene – the slightly sloshed, yet debonair, William Powell as Nick Charles instructing a bartender: “The important thing is the rhythm! Always have rhythm in your shaking. Now a Manhattan you shake to fox-trot time; a bronx to two-step time; a dry martini, you always shake to waltz time.” Cocktails equaled glamor, elegance and style. My timeless Prohibition era cocktail shaker made in 1930 by International Silver fit into my carry on.

Vault 29. Established over 60 years ago, Silstar Antiques is a family run business with a long history of working in the famous London Silver Vaults. A traditional friendly dealer who likes to build trusted, lasting relationships with their clients, Silstar is proud to supply antique and modern silver to buyers and collectors around the world. They are best known for their large stock of antique silver goblets, some of which date back to the 16th century and typically carry over 100 goblets in stock at any one time. Silstar refreshes their stock of goods continually with new arrivals weekly.

Vault 31 & 32. Wax Antiques specialize in early English and continental silver from the 1600s onwards. Their impressive collection includes rare items from the Charles II period and earlier. Members of LAPADA, Wax antiques also offer an extensive stock of Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian silverware.

Lifestyle Management – Luxury Travel and Luxurious Lifestyle.

Highly Recommend!