It’s the people you meet on the Journey – Taste Dalmatia

The people you meet while traveling can be a significant slice of each Journey. Often, some of the encounters I’ve enjoyed are more impactful memories than the scenery – amazing individuals I’ve met along the way. Chefs, home cooks or professional, guides or strangers– I collect nuggets from my random chance meetings, every Journey is transformative and the strangers who become friends are to be cherished.

Only 20 minutes from the old town of Dubrovnik is an ancient garden estate in Trsteno, known now as Trsteno Arboretum. The oldest arboretum in the Dalmatian coast doubles as the gardens in Game of Thrones. My VIP Croatia team know I love to visit home chefs and take private cooking classes, I’ve learned not to take classes in India and in kitchens where a complex menu requires serious cooking skills. I am a good cook, lesson learned in the Maldives with a Michelin chef at the yummy Indian restaurant, my kitchen skills cannot do justice to such a complicated meal. I’m quite efficient at making reservations!

Double pleasure when I dined at Taste Dalmatia, arrive at sunset to the private gate of a massive overgrown garden and walk through the Trsteno Arboretum to reach the cozy home of Katja. An exclusive offering from our VIP Croatia team. Gardens and yummy home cooked dinner! We have clients in Croatia now who will be dining in Katja’s garden this week!

In 1494, a Nobleman named Ivan Marinov Gučetić-Gozze erected a summer villa and laid out a beautiful garden at his estate in Trsteno, a small fishing town just outside Dubrovnik. Both the villa and its botanical gardens soon became a hub of Renaissance humanism in the Croatian city. The garden arboretum extends across 70 acres overlooking the Adriatic Sea and is the oldest arboretum on the Dalmatian coast. It’s home to more than 300 species of plants and trees, including many exotic types. The highlight of the collection are two rare Oriental Plane trees that are around 150 feet tall and over 500 years old.

Trsteno Arboretum came to life when the Gozze family requested the returning ship captains to bring seeds and plants from their travels. The gardens house banana trees, cactus and are decorated with ruins and sculptures including the remains of an old olive press. The scent of lavender, rosemary and fuchsia fills the air.

Stroll to the edge of the gardens and enter a small estate owned by a local family for over 250 years, a well-maintained olive grove with a stunning view of the Elafites.

Leafy winding paths lead to vegetable gardens, more olives and humble stone homes ending at the beach. The vegetable garden is amazing, the soil and sea air produce massive show stopping vegetables and flowers.

This fresh organic produce and herbs are incorporated by the home-based chef, Katja who serves dinner or brunch on her cozy terrace. Classic Home Cooking, comfort food. She offers classes or in my case, a delightful dinner and a couple of hours of cooking conversation! Her terraced garden is the perfect location to end a hot summer day in Dubrovnik. Oh, did I mention the summer cicada symphony?!

Cooking classes can include bread making as no true traditional meal in Croatia is complete without a hot loaf of bread. Baked in an iron pot with a dome called a peka, as their ancestors used to make every day. Fresh fish, her father offers catch of the day.

A bottle of Croatian wine and her special rose liquor aids in the telling of stories. Local olive oils, Adriatic salt and just picked vegetables are served in abundance.

Delicious vegetable dishes, fish from the sea, caught at dawn by her father – this is a family affair and a rare private peek into a local home with an engaging talented chef and host.

A silver crescent moon emerged over the cozy garden; I could have chatted with Katja all evening!

Rosolio. Rose Petal Liquor from Katja: Layer rose petals and sugar in a large glass jar, making sugar the last layer. Keep in the sun for 1.5 months, until the sugar melts and the rose petals begin to release their scent. Filter juice and mix it with grappa- this is the extraordinary elixir!

The wine captures the delicate floral aroma of fresh rose petals in a light and fresh summertime aperitif.  Serve over crushed ice. živjeli!

Rosolio, also known as “the liqueur of the past” for its extremely ancient origins, started spreading at the end of the 17th century. It was first produced in monasteries, where nuns used to macerate rose petals in alcohol to produce a liqueur for important guests.

Croatian food and wine are one of the most popular aspects of each travel arrangement but also a major reason for arrival for an increasing number of travelers and groups. Food and wine travel in Croatia is diverse as the country’s cultural heritage itself. From the Central European North, Hungarian influences East to Italian flavors of Istria and unique East-meets-Mediterranean on the coast. Each region has its own dishes, treasures they value and cherish.

Food and wine travel in Croatia brings these treasures closer and opens the closed doors of old konobas, wine cellars, grandmother’s kitchens and introduces the travelers to the authentic tastes of the region. The private class or dinner includes a driver to and from your five-star hotel.

Katja!

Highly Recommend!

Summer Sampler – The Pearl of the Adriatic Dubrovnik

My summer sojourn on the amazing SeaDream Yacht, if only the heat didn’t slow me down! I began my yacht odyssey in Dubrovnik, a destination our clients love and more importantly, we adore our VIP team here – Magic happens in Croatia!

So many reasons to visit Croatia and in particular, the southern city of Dubrovnik. It is the most visited city in the country. As one of the last remaining walled towns in the world, stroll the cobbled streets and walk through time. Dubrovnik’s weather and stunning views and an easy town to wander, make it an amazing destination. Oh, continue on for the best hotel notes.

Rooftop Prosciutto and Wine Bar Villa Dubrovnik Croatia

A city of red-tiled roof tops, beautiful architecture, stone walls, ancient churches, the city has regained its grandeur after the horrific Balkan war. A medieval town along the breathtaking Adriatic coast, the old stone fortress and defensive wall, very walkable limestone streets are a perfect combination of an old town in a fairy tale like picture book.

The size of Dubrovnik is ideal, small enough if you want to visit its beautiful old town in one day by just walking around. And large enough if you want more and like to be active. You can hike the Sdr hill – take the cable car one way up and then walk down to admire the stunning, bird’s eye view over the old town as well as the many islands dotting the crystal clear, azure Adriatic Sea. Active travelers will be entertained and challenged with kayaking, hiking, or cycling. One of my guides commanded: you must swim every day, the water is a tonic to youth – the purity has no comparisons.

Croatian writer Predrag Matvejević wrote:The Atlantic and the Pacific are seas of distance, the Mediterranean a sea of propinquity, the Adriatic a sea of intimacy. – Mediterranean: a cultural landscape.

swan dive into the Adriatic Sea from the cliff side beach club!

Cross the massive threshold through the wooden gates into the old town, to the main street, Stradun., known locally as Placa. One.three miles of stone walls built between the 11th and 13th centuries offer breathtaking views. The main square has a church or palace on almost every corner. Spectacular churches and palaces include St. Savior Church, Dubrovnik Cathedral and Rector’s Palace. My Jewish guide, former professor, noted that the Synagogue was closed today and there is a small Muslim Temple nearby. Fallen Catholic girls still shell out Euros for candles, just in case their parents and grandparents are in heaven. Do consider a late afternoon hike up the 175 steps to explore the Lovrijenac Fortress, built atop a 100-foot rock looking out toward Venice.

My favorite time of the day is late afternoon – the tourists take a break before dinner and the labyrinth of streets are quieter, the sun sparkles off the limestone buildings the street cafes are chic and inviting, a quiet place to contemplate life in an ancient walled town. Game of Thrones added a certain cachet – I didn’t engage, much was filmed here if you are an enthusiast.

Hotels – In my humble opinion, there is only one place to stay. Villa Dubrovnik – there aren’t many five-star properties, I feel the location and setting are perfect!

My summer trek, like many others wasn’t easy – a malfunctioning Air France jet delayed me in Paris, however, the captain said he would commandeer the next arriving jet and with some delay, we did depart CDG. Best act of macho aviation navigation I’ve ever witnessed!

My itin had a wee note: roof top Cocktail Bar at Villa Dubrovnik – I had a mission! Their Michelin restaurant, Pjerin, is multiple courses and is best saved for another evening! Drop bags and straight up to moon gaze, framed by Dubrovniks Old Town and the sea. Prosciutto and Wine Bar is stylishly adorned with comfy sofas under a canopied pagoda, champagne finally, after the globe hopping. It was my end of day perch during my all to brief visit.

A modernist gem of a hotel in the historic heart of the Adriatic. Set into the rocky cliffs on the most magical stretch of Dalmatian coast, Villa Dubrovnik is a stylish retreat for travelers in need of deluxe privacy and first-class hospitality. It’s not walking distance to Old Town, we have drivers, not to worry! The seaside setting is calm, quiet and exquisite.

The hotel’s pristine white architecture is a stunning contrast to the rocky landscape and sapphire Adriatic. Super yachts drift impressively on the immediate horizon, the island of Lokrum is the post card perfect backdrop. Afternoon soundtrack: splash of divers braving the rocky cliffs, motorboats puttering past, melting ice cubes crackling in fizzy drinks…endless summer from the rocky cliffs.

Vilal Dubrovnik, Croatia

The property’s clean, nautical lines evoke an understated refinement, and the modern decor is matched by an out-of-this-world Michelin gastronomic experience that revisits rich culinary traditions of the Mediterranean in a contemporary style.

Villa Dubrovnik

An infinity pool at the edge of the sea and a cliff side beach club dares guests to swan dive from the rocky perch. Me, under the big white umbrella, captivated for hours by the daunting divers and swimmers lazing and lapping about the pristine sea.

My coffee is always delivered, without the first bowl of coffee, I can barely utter a sentence let alone try to find the on button on those pod. machines – some love them, not I. Then amble up to the al fresco bar restaurant Giardino. The relaxing outdoor bistro is set against the historical parapet that overlooks Old City walls and island of Lokrum. Doze under the shade of maritime pines, it’s an ideal location for brunch or a late afternoon lunch serving fresh salads to fresh local sea food. Oh, great people watching as well.

Villa Dubrovnik closed at end of summer for a top to bottom refurnishing, but already has bookings for most of June 2024…don’t tarry!

Oh, Highly Recommend, Villa Dubrovnik!