Morocco Earthquake – Reminiscences and How to Help.

The aftermath of the September 8 earthquake in Morocco has flooded me with memories and contemplation of what this endearing country has meant to me over the last few years. My days since include connecting to my beloved hoteliers and our teams. Many colleagues were in Marrakech for an annual travel conference, they shared photos, locations for donating blood, providing updates on our favorite hotels in the Atlas Mountains, which seem to be the worst hit region at the epicenter. From Kasbah Tamadot, our clients love to hike through the Atlas Mountains with the locals and stop in villages for a meal. Spending a few hours in the surroundings of the High Atlas Mountains in a uniquely traditional way with one of the properties resident mules. Passing the eucalyptus and olive groves, the path takes a a gentle ascent into a nearby village with its traditional Berber homes. A great way to experience the local culture, the hotel staff come from these villages, the hardest hit area of the earthquake.

Ait Ben Haddou is a historic ighrem or ksar along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. It is considered a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. 

It has been a time of responding to the many clients who have reached out asking if Mustapha, our favorite VIP Client liaison is ok, is his family ok?  I’ve always known Mustapha was a gem, who finds champagne in the Sahara, is my usual anecdote of his many talents. When your clients reach out long after their Journeys, it’s a testament to the nature of our dear clients, and the caring people who manage our clients in foreign countries.

Mustapha Mum, me & Auntie under the fig tree

The outpouring of love and support has been heartwarming.

Many have asked how can we help? Mustapha’s home survived, his parents whose farm is in a small village in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, lost two rooms. I was welcomed into his parents’ humble home for tea, which translated to an impromptu feast of home-grown dates, walnuts, and mint tea. Mustapha thought it unusual that I was so excited to be included – Mustapha, no one invites me in for tea in Spain, France, etc.

Many of Morocco’s buildings and mosques date from the 12th Century, most of the small countryside villages we pass through don’t look as if they could withstand a drenching rain storm, let alone an earthquake of this magnitude. The ancient culture is what I find most compelling, age old tanneries in Fez still function as a part of their every day life. One of my favorite photos was taken near the Draa Valley, famous as the date basket of Morocco, two women hauling hay with their mules, their brick home looked precarious on the steep hillside. These are typical homes all over Morocco.

Moroccan people are warm, welcoming, and extremely generous, even more so in modest communities. Never say No to Tea and be prepared to be embraced and well fed!  One of the wait staff at Dar Ahlam walked me through his tiny village and took me to his home for tea. His wife and child spoke no English, and I no Arabic- but like the love fest with Mustapha’s mum and Auntie, we communicated.

Another chance encounter where I was warmly welcomed was a lunch visit at the glorious riad Jnane Tamsna owned and run by Merryanne Loum-Martin and her American husband Gary Martin. Within minutes of sharing our mutual friends, we were embraced as instant friends and lingered at their beautiful property for lunch, and I’ve subsequently spent impromptu days in Paris with Merryanne when the Moroccan borders were shut down during the pandemic and stayed at Jname Tamsna, their stunning oasis hotel property on the fringes of Marrakech.

How to help on a direct level?  Gary Martin, a cultural anthropologist, and ethnobotanist is founder of the Global Diversity Foundation. He was a lecturer in the School of Anthropology and Conservation at the University of Kent from 1998 to 2011 and a Fellow of the Rachel Carson Center for Environment and Society from 2010 to 2012. Twice a Fulbright scholar, Gary has a PhD in anthropology from the University of California, Berkeley, and an undergraduate degree in botany. His applied research and teaching on conservation and ethnobotany has taken him to more than 50 countries over the last 30 years.

Their hotel property Jnane Tamsna is 70 km from the epicenter, he mentions that the length and intensity felt worse than an 8.0 earthquake he lived through in Mexico in 1985. There is immense loss of life and livelihoods in the High Atlas villages where they work, especially in the Ouirgane Valley, from where they are receiving reports of many fatalities and homes destroyed.

Global Diversity Foundation has established a Morocco High Atlas Earthquake Relief Fund. Global Diversity Foundation, which has been working in the High Atlas for more than a decade, is directly assisting High Atlas communities. Given our deep ties with the region, we are working on the ground with our Moroccan partners to address the most urgent needs including emergency medical services, food, water, shelter, and transport. We are committed to continue our support to assist communities with their long-term recovery.

Over 2,000 lives have been lost and countless homes, shops and other buildings have been destroyed. Displaced people in High Atlas communities need urgent assistance including clothing, food, shelter, and water. Over the long term, these communities will need to rebuild their lives and livelihoods. The emergency needs will go on way after Marrakech does not make the headlines anymore. These emergency needs will then morph into rebuilding needs while being very active on conservation and green and sustainable means.

Global Diversity Foundation has supported resilience of traditional livelihoods in the High Atlas for over a decade. Once the urgent aid work is over, we will use funds to help families rebuild their homes, incorporating earthquake-resistant construction techniques, and re-establish their traditional ways of living and working. Our approach is community-led and prioritises their pressing needs over the coming months to ensure that people’s lives and livelihoods are rehabilitated as soon as possible.

Besides our local friends in Marrakech, World Central Kitchen is on the ground as well

The NY Times offers a list of options https://www.nytimes.com/…/how-to-help-victims-morocco…

Please Donate! Or better yet, Plan a Journey to Morocco, the Atlas Mountains area has been hit hard, but the remainder of the country is waiting for Travelers!

One&Only, Portonovi – Seaside Sanctuary- Montenegro Jewel

Where the open waters of the Adriatic meet Montenegro’s Black Mountains, the sheltered haven of Boka Bay provides an idyllic setting for the first European property of the renowned resorts managed by One&Only.

A recent day spent at this resort reaffirmed my love of the One&Only brand of luxury resorts. The only resort of its kind in theMediterranean,  One&Only Portonovi is a portal into true escapism, with dramatic coastlines and quaint medieval towns of Herceg Novi, Perast and Kotor. It is the perfect hopscotch from visiting Dubrovnik and the seaside town of Kotor. Opening in 2021, barely an hour from Dubrovnik, it is a breathtaking stunner. Mountains of pine filled forests plunge to the clean clear water, beautifully preserved medieval UNESCO towns dot the shore and small islets with petite twin churches.  A modern take on Venetian architecture, pastel hued facades, plush interiors in all the rooms and suites. The grand lobby of Persian rugs sets the stage for the sweeping views of the royal blue bay.

One&Only Portonovi is a portal into true escapism, with dramatic coastlines and quaint medieval towns of Herceg Novi, Perast and Kotor. It is the perfect hopscotch from visiting Dubrovnik and the seaside town of Kotor. Opened in 2021, barely an hour from Dubrovnik, it is a breathtaking stunner. Mountains of pine filled forests plunge to the clean clear sea, beautifully preserved medieval UNESCO towns dot the shore and small islets with petite twin churches.  A modern take on Venetian architecture, pastel hued facades, plush interiors in all the rooms and suites. The grand lobby of Persian rugs sets the stage for the sweeping views of the royal blue bay.

I enjoyed a marvelous day at One&Only Portnovi in Montenegro. Plopped on the shores of the glistening Adriatic, this luxury seaside hotel is OTT glamorous!  Renowned for rejuvenating wellness in the hotel’s Chenot Espace medical spa, a capital D – Destination. Just a few moments with the spa director, I was convinced I need a month’s stay! Casual day spa or embark on a three-to-six-day program of health. High tech assessments with onsite team of doctors with treatments overseen with a Chenot diet.

This is Europe’s first One&Only. A luxurious seaside property offering multiple restaurants of casual and gourmet dining, a rare sandy beach with water sports, kayaks, SUP, water polo and volley ball. Outdoor pools, tennis, and a fun kids’ club. Experiences include private sailing or sleek Nesey speed boats cruising across the glistening Kotor Bay, wine tasting and sightseeing in medieval-walled Kotor town, the ancient submarine caves can also be visited. One of the best hidden attractions in the Bay of Kotor are the submarine tunnels near the village of Rose. There are 3 submarine tunnels in the Bay, and they are worth visiting.  The tunnels are fascinating piece of military heritage, and they are also a great place for swimming and snorkeling.

Rooms, suites and ten exclusive private Villas located on the waterfront complete with beach and some have private pools. One&Only Portonovi’s private villas undoubtedly offer the finest accommodation in Montenegro. Each expansive standalone villa is set in its own blooming garden with a private swimming pool, hydrotherapy pool, six massage stations, and incredible sunset views over the Adriatic Sea. Complemented with attentive, holistic service from a dedicated team of butlers and private chefs.Residences with three and four bedrooms. From Suite One, dramatic sea and mountain views unfold in a family magnificent suite, made for celebrations. Whether it’s al fresco dining on the terrace or a sophisticated soirée with family and friends, this oversized suite can comfortably seat 12, both indoors and out. With a dedicated lift, a separate private entrance, and a service lift for the butler, Suite One can be connected to neighboring rooms, becoming Suite Two or Suite Three.

Swimmers’ paradise: the Adriatic Sea along Croatia and Montenegro is one of the best places to swim in Europe, the Riviera of Montenegro. The water is crystal clear, warm in the summer, not too choppy, it is often sheltered and there are wind-protected places that can be found easily, especially when you have a boat. The Adriatic coast enjoys a Mediterranean climate of cool, rainy winters and hot, dry summers, think of at least a 5 to 7 day stay. This is the equivalent of Europe’s Mexican beaches, ultra-refined! Wander the cobbled streets and fresco-filled churches of neighboring Medieval towns like Perast and Kotor, hike the pristine forests.

By the pool, Tapasake Club serves contemporary pan-Asian tapas-style fusion cuisine and sake, and the largest lobsters I’ve ever seen! Lunch here was amazing with sweet Nadja Djordjevic, a dear who came in on Sunday to host me. The two significant dining emporiums are beachside Sabia, from Michelin- starred   Italian star Giorgio Locatelli, and Tapasake Club from former Nobu chef, Yannick Bayjoo. Too many choices for lunch, as typical with all our beloved hoteliers, our table was an abundance of fresh fish, spring rolls, fish tacos, and tall cocktails, all delicious!

Feet In Sand Dining: A starry night upon golden sand in one of the world’s most beautiful bays – it doesn’t get much better than this. Chef comes to you, craft the perfect menu and team serves your dinner under the stars!

Grateful to our fabulous Croatia Dream Team who arranged my land tours, and a One&Only speedboat for my return to port. What better finale, bouncing across Boka Bay on a blistering hot afternoon!

Highly Recommend!