Nomadic Lifestyle – Luxury in Morocco

Look for me here, my Nomadic cravings for Morocco will soon be realized. Always on the move, just as a desert camel roams, I will be exploring the finest hotels and experiences to share with our clients. Searching for wide open spaces, places to breathe and roam freely – Morocco is the destination!

Imperial Suite Ocean room with bed, corner windows with Atlantic Ocean views
Four Seasons Casablanca
White lounge chairs around outdoor swimming pool, tropical plants
Four Seasons, Casablanca

Looking forward to my epic adventure across Morocco, beginning on the Atlantic Coast of Tangier and leisurely making my way across Central Morocco to the Atlas Mountains and Marrakech. The spine of Morocco, separating the Atlantic from the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains soar up to the snowy summit of Mount Toubkal, and comprise the High, Middle and Anti-Atlas. 

This Journey can be designed for culture and art aficionados, photography bugs, and hikers – to include day treks in untouched wilderness, this is more than souks and the Sahara. Mountain biking has become more and more popular in small groups, take on the cols and gorges in the High Atlas Mountains. Pedal through the cedar forests of Ifrane National Park. Water sports can be enjoyed on the El Abid River and falls provide the perfect location for canyoning and walking the gorges. Morocco offers something for every desire. The Four Seasons Casablanca will catch me on arrival before I mosey out the next day. Begin with a fine hotel in a city and move toward the vast deserts with endless horizons.

Tangier, Morocco

In the heart of the Kasbah on the highest point of the Medina of Tangier with panoramic views across the Straits of Gibraltar you will find the little gem property La Tangerina. La Tangerina has a real feeling of inner sanctum yet you are just yards from the souk and a short walk from the port and seafront.

La Tangerina

Typical to my travel, I stay at multiple hotels, seeing glossy photos online is not quite the same as bed hopping, visiting spas, ordering meals – it truly is an experience which a website nor a brochure provide. And there is a hotel for every taste, our unique fingerprints are indicative of our individual must haves in a hotel.

The distinctive soundscape of the five times daily call to prayer, adhan, will echo throughout the cities and villages.  Tangier, a white-walled city perched between Morocco and Europe, was long a haven for the literary and artistic avant-garde—and black sheep—of Europe and America. Poets, artists, and lovers have wandered the streets, enhanced the villas, and designed the hidden gardens for eons. Rohuna, Umberto Pasti’s horticultural paradise will be my first morning expedition in Tangier; capturing stunning vistas and verdant fields, Rohuna, was twenty years in the making mingling spectacular views and cultivated gardens and outdoor rooms within the vast garden. The Spirit of Eden, A Garden in Northern Morocco by Umberto Pasti  was published in October by Rizzoli.

Eden Revisited: A Garden in Northern Morocco: Pasti, Umberto, Ngo, Ngoc  Minh, Sartogo, Martina Mondadori: 9780847864805: Amazon.com: Books

Wake up to Tangier, then on to Chefchaouen, the ancient blue city known for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town. The Blue Pearl of Morocco. Leather and weaving workshops line its steep cobbled lanes. In the shady main square of Place Outa el Hammam the red-walled Kasbah, a 15th-century fortress and dungeon.

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Chefchaouen Photo by Hiroki Ogawa

Stopping in the ancient city of Fes, absorbing the rich culture along the way. The overland Journey continues onward to Riad Fes, a Relais & Chateaux property, luxury within the riad, a proper five-star hotel composed of five noble houses interconnected by marble staircases and dimly lit candlelit corridors.  The property is situated amid a private walled in garden off the maze of narrow streets, 13th Century buildings and busy markets. Fez, founded in the 9th Century, is Morocco’s best preserved old royal city. Donkeys and mules are commonly used for transportation in the old city’s maze of narrow streets.

Riad Fes combines a subtle mix of Andalusian sumptuousness and Moroccan art de vivre, the Riad Fès reflects its prestigious past and the refined civilization to which it belongs. This majestic palace is an authentic example of Hispanic-Moorish architecture. It offers panoramic views of the magical spectacle of the sun rising over the Fès Medina, and the Atlas Mountains. Hammams and massages, fountains, smoking-rooms, sophisticated cuisine, and a trendy lounge bar.

Riad Fes is renowned for luxury, dining, and refined service.  Guests enjoy the splendor of the ancient noble Fes families, in a one thousand-and one-nights Andalusian-style atmosphere.

I’m looking forward to a sunset aperitif on the roof top with the ethereal muezzin call to prayer in the background. The panoramic view of the Fez medina and the Atlas Mountains on the horizon.

After three days exploring Fez, I will continue my Journey, my private driver, Mustapha, is with me for the duration of this overland expedition!  With a stop at Sahara Desert Luxury Camp, under the jet-black star-studded skies, nights are spent around a bonfire, entertainment provided by local nomads swaying to traditional music.  At night, glamping in a luxury tent with a magnificent blend of a traditional Moroccan style and contemporary decor.

Two nights at Dar Ahlam. On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Located in Skoura, a charming remote traditional Berber village in the South on Morocco – Province of Ouarzazate, away from the touristic paths. Terracotta colored stone meets sapphire skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty. Activities are created by the visionary founder Thierry Teyssie, Dar Ahlam, which more than lives up to its Arabic translation as the ‘House of Dreams’. Bringing a sense of showmanship learned during his days as a French actor to his Moroccan Kasbah, all the world’s a stage for Thierry when it comes to creating unique experiences for his guests. Can’t wait to see what his dreams produce for my stay!

The décor changes with the seasons, sumptuous fabrics and colors bringing the environment to life. Days at Dar Ahlam are long and luxurious. Without the distractions of television and technology, you can really unwind. Instead, indulge in a massage under the olive trees or head off for refreshments by the river. Spend a balmy evening atop the Kasbah, aperitif in hand, before feasting on a freshly prepared supper under the vast sky. Meals are served in surprise locations; activities are designed around your tastes and delightful diversions are typically offered daily to each guest.

Exotic and exhilarating, Berber culture has its oldest roots in the Atlas Mountains. Follow my path to the award-winning Kasbah Tamadot. Sir Richard Branson’s stunning retreat nestled in Morocco’s beautiful Atlas Mountains.

Divided into the three sections, the High Atlas in central Morocco, south of Marrakech, are home to Mt. Toubkal and the eponymous national park, the highest peak in North Africa. These drop down to the lower peaks of the Anti-Atlas further south, where you can hike to peaks such as Jebel Aklim with spectacular views across to the highest in the north. The Middle Atlas in the far northwest are the backdrop for Fez and Meknes, more set up for day trips than full on mountain immersion.

One common denominator, all the mountain ranges have in common: The Berber people. Berbers are a welcoming people with strong traditions, it’s more than dates and rosewater. Traditional subsistence farming is the norm in the Atlas Mountains, with small farms producing nuts and fruits, local sheep and goat herders can be seen along the roads.

And eventually reaching Marrakech to explore luxury hotels and charming riads in the medina. On the way, a brief escape to the coast, to Essaouira, and another lovely Relais & Chateaux property, L’Heure Bleue.

Heure Bleue Palais, Essouira

Situated on the Atlantic coast 2.5hrs from Marrakech is the laid-back fishing village of Essouira, famous for its Gnaoua music and artistic scene.  Many local and foreign artists have settled here continuing the vibe that attracted visitors such as Jimmy Hendrix and Cat Stevens (Yousuf Islam) in the 1960’s.

Once an old Portuguese fishing village, Essouira is a perfect place for those who wish to wander the souks for wooden carvings that it is famous for, to stop and enjoy fresh seafood and local wine while watching the fishermen come in with their daily catch.  For a more active alternative the kite and board surfing is excellent here and there is horse riding, camel riding and golf available. 

Hotel
Heure Bleue Palais, Essouira

Along the path, I will visit a rare Moroccan winery, as you know, a Muslim country does not indulge in spirits. The Val d’Argan winery, which is nestled in a valley between the sea and inland plain, the Val d’Argan area benefits from the mixed climate of ocean breeze and Saharan heat, producing wines with unexpected flavors. The 30ha property includes olive and Argan trees, from which the domain has taken its name. These trees grow only in Morocco and yield an olive-like fruit. The estate also produces Argan oil.

The Heure Bleue Palais is not an ordinary hotel, it is a house steeped in history but also men and women serving their guests. Like a pearl in an exceptional setting, the Heure Bleue Palais welcomes you in Essaouira. At the heart of the bay of the ancient Mogador, this palace has for word of order the well-being of its guests. The Blue Hour Palace lives in the heart of Essaouira and its Medina World Heritage Site by Unesco. Heure Bleue Palais has an extraordinary location: at the gates of the historic old city known as the Medina, the hotel is also just minutes away from the beach and surrounds of the city. 

hotel
Heure Bleue Palais Premium Suite

For many years the main square, streets and lanes of the Medina come alive with Essaouira’s calendar of musical festivals, including the Gnaoua & World Music festival, the Alizés musicale and the Andalusies Atlantiques festival. 

Hotel

It’s time to dream again, borders are open, boosters are available, the world is anxious to welcome travelers and we are excited to begin curating Journeys again for our dear clients! Several epic Journeys are in planning stages, time to escape!

“To get away from one’s working environment is, in a sense, to get away from one’s self; and this is often the chief advantage of travel and change.” ~Charles Horton Cool

Where Will You Go? First Steps, Cotswolds Gardens

A garden isn’t meant to be useful. It’s for joy. Rumer Godden
I’m not sure what will be the most appealing escape after Shelter in Place, Social Distancing – my first foray out to the real world again.

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Will we be cautious, will our first expedition be to throw ourselves in to a busy bellowing city oozing with activity or will crowds remind us of the dangers of the pandemic.

Perhaps a gentle ease into civilization at a countryside estate and gardens. The Cotswold’s are merely 50 minutes from London, so perhaps a mix of both and if the city unnerves you, mosey back to the verdant emerald estates. The Cotswold’s is renowned for its destination gardens including The Royal Garden at Highgrove, the garden of Prince Charles, open for tours by appointment. Perhaps begin with a private Champagne Tea Tour, so VV proper and British.

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Royal Gardens at Highgrove

Royal Gardens at Highgrove comprise a varied collection of landscapes, from the genteel environs of the Sundial Garden to the unstructured beauty of the Wildflower Meadow. There is much to discover in this extraordinary collection, a garden over 35 years in the making, created with passion, vision and dedication by HRH The Prince of Wales.

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Royal Gardens at Highgrove

The gardens encapsulate the unique ambience of Highgrove and showcase its rich variety of landscaping and flora and fauna. Separated into multiple area including The Sundial garden, The Stumpery, Thyme Walk, Wildflower Meadow and the Cottage Garden. The Stumpery is a tranquil corner of the garden, a rich habitat for a variety of wildlife, the Stumpery is an atmospheric garden that draws inspiration from the Victorian concept of growing ferns amongst upturned tree stumps. An enchanting space that highlights the sculptural qualities of wood, the Stumpery features a series of remarkable natural structures, including two classical temples crafted from green oak and cut to resemble stone, at the base of which sits David Wynne’s sculpture of the Goddess of the Wood.
https://www.highgrovegardens.com/pages/the-gardens

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Royal Gardens at Highgrove

Barnsley House, near Cirencester. Redesigned by Rosemary Verey in the 1950’s. Straight from a storybook, the magical country gardens feel like a fairytale. Time seems to stand still here and there’s something special and unique with each changing season. The famous Laburnum Walk has become iconic and there are surprises at every turn. Explore a kitchen garden and you’ll discover how fresh their produce really is. And you’ll no doubt come across our talented gardeners who lovingly nurture the flowers, plants and produce to keep everything looking lovely all year-round. Once the home of renowned garden designer Rosemary Verey, the gardens of this luxury hotel remain a highlight. Produce picked by the chefs take pride of place in dishes such as tangy Barnsley House pickled beetroot, creamy goat’s cheese curd and candied hazelnuts. Created by the revered garden designer Rosemary Verey, the gardens at Barnsley House are a classic example of an English country garden. With knot gardens, the Laburnum Walk, statues by Simon Verity and the bountiful kitchen garden growing much of the produce that you’ll find on our menus, these sublime and timeless gardens are sure to make a lasting impression. www.barnsleyhouse.com

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Barnsley House
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Barnsley House

Hidcote Manor, near Chipping Camden Hidcote Manor Garden is a garden in the United Kingdom, located at the village of Hidcote Bartrim, near Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire. It is one of the best-known and most influential Arts and Crafts gardens in Britain, with its linked “rooms” of hedges, rare trees, shrubs and herbaceous borders. A collection of garden areas including The Bathing Pool Garden, The Pillar Garden, The Red Borders and Gazebos gardens. The Pillar Garden is something special, the vast yew pillars dominate this verdant space. The strong tall columns are so architectural it creates the effect of walking through classical ruins. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hidcote

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Sezincote Gardens. Near Moreton in Marsh Sezincote is a Mughal Indian palace set in the Cotswold Hills, created by the nabob Charles Cockerell in 1805. The house is surmounted by a copper dome and minarets and set in a picturesque water garden with seven pools, waterfalls, a grotto and a temple to Surya, the Hindu Sun God. A curving Orangery frames the Persian Garden of Paradise. The house was the whim of Colonel John Cockerell, grandson of the diarist Samuel Pepys, who returned to England having amassed a fortune in the East India Company. John died in 1798, three years after his return, and the estate passed to his youngest brother Charles, who had also worked for the company. He commissioned his brother Samuel, an architect, to design and build an Indian house in the Mogul style of Rajasthan, complete with minarets, peacock-tail windows, jali-work railings and pavilions.

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Sezincote Gardens. Near Moreton in Marsh

Once completed, Sezincote dazzled all who came. When the Prince Regent visited in 1807, an event commemorated in a Daniell painting owned by the family, he was so impressed that he went on to change his plans for the Royal Pavilion in Brighton. Designed by John Nash, it echoed the exotic Indian style he’d admired at Sezincote. Samuel Pepys Cockerell, younger brother of the owner, was the architect, with the artist Thomas Daniell advising on classical Indian architecture. Repton consulted on landscaping the grounds. https://www.sezincote.co.uk/

Batsford Park Arboretum, near Moreton Marsh In 1886 the estate was inherited, indirectly, by Algernon Bertram Freeman-Mitford, later to become the 1st Lord Redesdale in 1905. During the 1860s he worked for the foreign office in Russia, Japan and China. An accomplished linguist and recognised authority on Chinese and Japanese culture and politics, Mitford fell in love with the oriental landscape – a passion which directly influenced his design for the arboretum. On inheriting the estate, Mitford moved permanently to the Cotswolds and between 1886 and the early 1890’s, he knocked down the old Georgian mansion which stood in the grounds and built the neo-Tudor house you see today, designed by Earnest George (possibly with Harold Peto) and now privately owned. Mitford’s influence on the gardens was equally radical. He all but erased any trace of the old layout and created a wild garden of naturalistic planting derived from his observations in China and Japan. By now an accomplished plants man and authority on bamboos, he created one of the foremost collections of the time – some of which remain to this day. Following his death in 1916, Batsford Park was inherited by David Mitford – who moved into the house with his infamous family. Their time at Batsford was short though. The huge costs associated with running such a large house meant they were forced to sell it after World War I.

Batsford Park Arboretum, near Moreton Marsh

The estate was bought by Gilbert Alan Hamilton Wills, later the 1st Lord Dulverton who, along with his wife, Lady Victoria took a great interest in the gardens, particularly the more formal areas and the walled garden. Best in spring to enjoy the 50-magnolia species in flower or in autumn for fiery fall colors. There is also Cotswold Archery experiences for all abilities 8 years and up. The Cotswold Falconry Centre is right next to Batsford Arboretum and home to around 150 Birds of Prey – many of which can be seen in free-flying demonstrations each day. http://www.batsarb.co.uk/

Kiftsgate Court, Near Chiping Camden Kiftsgate Court Gardens is situated above the village of Mickleton in the county of Gloucestershire, England, in the far north of the county close to the county border with both Worcestershire and Warwickshire. The gardens, famed for its roses, are the creation of three generations of women gardeners. The gardens, famed for its roses, are the creation of three generations of women gardeners. Started by Heather Muir in the 1920s, continued by Diany Binny from 1950 and now looked after by Anne Chambers and her husband. Kiftsgate Court is now the home of the Chambers family. http://www.kiftsgate.co.uk/

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Kiftsgate Court, Near Chiping Camden

Gorgeous Gardens – Tours run from April to mid-October with all profits benefitting the Prince of Wales’ Charitable Foundation.https://www.greatbritishgardens.co.uk/

Luxury Manor House we can recommend: Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa.
Set in rolling Cotswold countryside two hours from London (one and a half hours from Heathrow), Whatley Manor & Spa is a beautifully restored 19th-century honey-colored manor house with 15 large rooms and eight spacious suites.  Most of the rooms have views across the stunning 12-acre gardens. This is luxury and service on a very special level. In the two Michelin-starred restaurant, head chef Niall Keating’s 10-course tasting menu might include combinations such as delicate cod with subtly fermented cauliflower, and mackerel with preserved raspberry. The extensive spa offers a hydrotherapy pool, aromatic thermal suites, sauna and more. A range of innovative treatments includes facials that take place in an oxygen tent. Chef Niall Keating gained his Michelin star in less than a year at Whatley’s restaurant, The Dining Room, and he just received a second Michelin star in October 2019.  His cooking is light and fresh with some Asian influence.  He also oversees the more casual Grey’s Brasserie and The Green Room offering expertly crafted small plates. The large, luxurious spa was the first hotel spa in the UK to offer treatments in a Natura Bissé Air Bubble Suite — very good for jetlag! 
https://www.whatleymanor.com/

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Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa

Barnsley House as mentioned in gardens also offers rooms. With its golden stone, gables and mullion windows this is a dreamily romantic house. It’s a place you immediately relax into ‒ with casual-chic furnishings and cozy log fires. The building, though, is magnificently upstaged by its garden. There are four acres of formal gardens including a laburnum avenue and a potager. Beyond is a terrific vegetable garden along with outlying meadows that back on to a dairy farm. The Arcadian space was the near-legendary creation of Rosemary Verey who owned the house from 1952 until her death in 2001. Thereafter Barnsley House became a hotel, and is now part of the Calcot Collection of elegant, luxury accommodation.

Gardens and flowers have a way of bringing people together, drawing them from their homes.
― Clare Ansberry, The Women of Troy Hill: The Back-Fence Virtues of Faith and Friendship

Autochrome Gardens you might enjoy this link of early English Gardens, photographed in the early 20th Century using the pioneering Autochrome Lumière process.
From the terraced house to country estates, from domestic gardens to public parks, our homes and gardens hold a wealth of history that help tell the story of England. Drawn from a remarkable collection of colour images at the Historic England Archive, https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/autochrome-gardens/TALCI4lCWUfkKA