Ancient Rural Tourism Morocco with Dar al Hossoun

More exploring in Morocco, focused on the countryside, the ocean, and secret gardens. I’ve made multiple visits to the sweet riad Dar Al Hossoun, in Taroudant, three hours from Marrakech. The French owner has become a friend, and we love the engaging staff! It’s a perfect base for exploring ancient Citadels, walled villages like Kasbah Of Tizourgane and collective graneries known as Igoudars. These stacked mud buildings reflect an ancestral history and a rich culture in the area.

Dar al Hossoun

Taroudant is called the “Grandmother of Marrakech” because it is a scaled down, slower paced town that physically resembles Marrakech with its orange-colored surrounding ramparts. It has the feel of a small fortified market town on a caravan route and is known for its local crafts. Unlike Marrakech, Taroudant contains almost the whole city within its ancient walls. The thick city walls built in 1528, are almost completely intact. It’s directly south of Marrakech, about a 3-hour drive.  A little unhurried Berber town, it can be over-looked by many tourists, perfect for me! Imagine the caravan route dotted with charming communities, don’t dismiss these little hidden gems.

At Dar al Hossoun, enjoy the tranquility of the gardens, painting, taking pictures, swimming, or dining on traditional Moroccan cuisine at their cookery classes, or simply relaxing at the Spa or by the pool. For those who wish to be active while at Dar al Hossoun, there is much to choose from: hikes, or carriage rides, visits to the souks and tannery nearby, discovery of the “lost” valley of the High or Anti-Atlas region, old Berber villages and tours of private homes and gardens.

The routes between the main Anti-Atlas cities of Taroudant, Tafraoute, Tata and Tiznit make great road trips and biking areas. This area is also rich in ancient Igoudars. A few have been restored, some are easy to find!  This countryside area abounds with architectural treasures: Medinas, Walls, fortified granaries called Igoudars, Ksours and Kasbahs. A guide from Dar al Hossoun can take you to any number of these nomadic remote locations.

Last fall, I visited for the second time – specifically to discover ancient walled citadels a few hours from the property. The Souss area is abundant with exceptional hiking and there are two accessible ancient sites, we spent a day exploring both.

Off a country road, in the midday heat, we walked down a steep stone path to the granary. My initial thoughts included, how will I get back up that hill in the blazing heat. The alleyways are packed with the individual ‘safes’. Mint tea and cookies in a small mud den with the local woman who is the ‘keeper,’ provided a welcoming respite from the heat.

These are real safes for the villages of the region. Collective granaries, seen from the outside, can look like a kasbah. Some granaries are still in operation but most tend to be abandoned. Some of the most remarkable marvels of southern Moroccan architecture have been left out of the main tourist trails and guidebook highlights.

Kasbah Of Tizourgane is a few hours drive from Dar al Hossoun, it’s a small, fortified village dating from the 13th century. In the Land of Ida Ougnidif, you can spend a few hours exploring the century-old wooden doors, walk the steep stone ramparts, and narrow winding lanes, and enveloping stone walls. Welcome to the fairy-tale village of Tizourgane! Lunch at the top of the citadel with breathtaking views!

The Kasbah has been rebuilt in coordination with the original construction techniques. It has a small guest house with a roof top restaurant. In February, the argan and almond trees in bloom enhance the beauty of the austere location.

The village is being restored by descendants of the original three families who lived here. Using heritage funding and income from the on-site guest house, the communal areas of the mosque and agadir are slowly being restored providing visitors an authentic view into kasbah life.

Each hand carved wooden door is distinctive, the complex detailed rock placement in unique patterns is mostly assembled without mortar, its truly worth the hike up the steep stairs. I felt like I was in an ancient cathedral, in a quiet sense of awe.

A high wall surrounds the Kasbah, protecting approximately fifty houses and an Agadir. It can only be accessed by a single gate with a watchtower, which is approached by ascending a long stone stairway.

In the 1930’s, the French army would have seized the citadel, but they failed.  Soldiers camped around the ramparts for weeks, cutting off all water sources. Legend has it that an old woman soaked her clothes in oil before laying them out in the sight of the soldiers. Believing that it was laundry, and that water was abundant at the citadel, the attackers became discouraged and left the village.   

The Igoudars. These stacked mud buildings reflect an ancestral history and a rich culture in the area. Consisting of shops, a local gathering place, and a strong sanctuary were important to the original tribes. This Agadir, built entirely of dry mud and stone, is one of the region’s oldest community granaries, dating back to the 17th century. It is notable by a wide corridor that divides it into two blocks of three stories. There are over 100 storage compartments, with the highest accessible via flat stones embedded in the walls.  Walking across the uneven ground, one can imagine the old life here – the call to prayer, mules laden with vegetables, chickens running free…

An agadir is usually placed on top of a mountain or carved into the rocks of dramatic escarpments, strategically located on higher ground beyond settlements, with good vantage points. Although each granary is remarkable in design, their bee hive like labyrinth interiors of interconnecting tunnels and passageways holding padlocked chambers collectively resemble a style of architecture of mystical Middle Earth. Most of the igoudar that remain are thought to date to the 16th and 17th century, although the tradition of building and using collective granaries is estimated to be as old as a millennia; evolving from a time when many southern Amazigh tribes were still nomadic. 

Kasbah Tizourgane

Communal granaries – often fortified – were constructed in pisé – rammed mud, in the hilltop villages to store and keep safe a long list of items. Made from the local earth, an Agadir, as they are known in the local Berber, – the plural is igoudar.  Each tribe or family would have their own compartment, an elaborate wooden key and lock protects the goods from plunderers. Sections were stacked on top of each other, many are built up over three stories with wooden doors, a wooden ladder is necessary to gain access.  

A handful of families may have formed each village, so there was a shared incentive to protect the Agadir. Each village appointed a guardian, the Agadir I visited was guarded by the son and widow wife of the last guardian. She excitedly shared the enormous wooden key that easily fit into an ancient hand carved wooden lock.

The crops which are agriculturally viable amid the dramatic climate conditions of the Anti Atlas, such as saffron, almonds, and argan are high in value, with saffron only offering a short annual harvesting window and the stigmas needing optimum storage conditions to preserve life span. 

Everything from important documents, money and jewelry to the seasons harvest could be stored inside the locked chambers. These well ventilated, shaded rooms built from thick stone walls remain at cool temperatures during high heat. It is possible for grains to be stored in some agadir chambers for up to 25 years, and natural butter for 10 (which is also believed to have medicinal qualities after being preserved for such a long period of time). The structures weren’t only built for storing harvests, medicines and possessions; the Amazigh (Berber), ancestors also constructed them to function as an ancient form of a high security bank vault. The strategic planning of each granaries location meant only one security guard, amin, was needed to ‘man the fort’ at any one time. The amin was also responsible for holding the keys to the main door and all the chambered storage rooms inside, a tradition which is still kept alive today. This responsibility has always been a well respected role within the local communities. 

The agadir was also a method of defense, tribesmen stored their arms inside. The central courtyard could be used to shelter women and children and their livestock.

In peaceful times, strategically placed igoudar could increase their revenue from the transitory camel caravans, offering nightly shelter and bartering. Some agadir included shared facilities such as a small mosque, a council chamber or a blacksmith and are thus recognized as early urbanization of the Berbers.

This 64 year old woman’s husband was the ‘amin’ and she and her son are now appointed by the village to guard the granary.

Dar al Hossoun guides can organize this day tour, hiking and other off property adventures!

Highly Recommend!

Dar al Hossoun – Hidden Garden Oasis

Exploring more of Morocco, focused on the countryside, the ocean and hidden gardens, my Camel Caravan Chapter Two departed Marrakech on a cold drizzly March morning, headed to Dar al Hossoun in Taroudant.  Taroudant is a former capital of Morocco, built by the Saadian dynasty as a base to attack the Portuguese on the Atlantic Coast, eventually the capital was moved to Marrakech. The thick city walls built in 1528, are almost completely intact. Geographically, it’s directly south of Marrakech, and about a 3-hour drive. From the coast of Agadir, draw a line directly east to run into Taroudant. A little unhurried Berber town, it can be over-looked by many tourists, perfect for me! Imagine the caravan route dotted with surprising enclaves, don’t dismiss these little hidden gems.

Dar al Hossoun Pool

On a rainy muddy day, the outlying area did not appear promising, it was already mid-day, and as we hesitantly drove through a rutted flooded dirt road, my protests became more animated. We must be lost, hoping my never to get lost driver might concede. There is nothing suitable here for anyone, I lamented. We should turn around. And then like so often in Morocco, we came upon a massive metal gate with a small sign Dar al Hossoun, pressed an obscure button, waited and the gate rumbled open to a concealed riad.

A Seventy-two-day Caravan traversing winter and spring, a camel would collapse with my massive baggage! In the cozy office I asked if there was an extra room for my trusted driver, he who would be touring with me the next few days. I’ve learned its best to keep driver nearby and viewing the bleak muddy neighborhood, I was adamant. Plus, I am often the only person who doesn’t speak French…driver wears at least 24 hats, translator is merely one hat. Case in point, one of the two men in the office only spoke French.

Lunch – please! Amble over a stone path to an upstairs glass salon amid an amazing garden. A welcome fire burned, cozy chairs, fluffy window seats propped with colorful pillows. Pure white tablecloths sprinkled with white bougainvillea blossoms; it was enchanting! Who was sniveling to turn around just moments ago?

Moroccan hospitality is legendary, platters of olives, baskets of warm bread and house olive oil were artfully placed on the white blossom strewn tablecloth. Mushroom Risotto is the perfect rainy day comfort food, combined with Champagne, water-logged roads forgotten!

I counted at least 5 cats mewing and peering in the glass walls, sunshine and birds appeared. The garden appeared massive, the cobble stone walk was lined with immense pots of greenery and quirky sculpture, a long narrow pool reflected swaying bamboo, exotic palms, banana plants and brilliant red blossoms. An abundance of tropical greenery intermixed with ancient cactus.

At first glance, this was an overgrown jungle of sorts. Later to discover it is a well-defined ancient garden created by two French garden masters. Designed by the world acclaimed landscape architects Eric Ossart and Arnaud Maurières, Dar al Hossoun’s prestigious gardens are bursting with all types of unusual and rare desert vegetation.  The two landscape architects collected plants in their extended travels in many deserts and dry areas around the world. The garden holds some of the most rare and interesting plants in the world. International Garden Club members flock here in caravans.

Dar al Hossoun has an extensive assortment of kalanchoes, agaves, aloes, cacti and euphorbias, a truly unique collection – some of the enormous cacti are 40 feet high, reaching to the sky like giant wild sculptures. The property is divided into several gardens, the sunken garden teeming with palms, shade the heat sensitive plants below, it’s a natural form of low water gardening.

The sixteen rooms and suites are dotted throughout the rambling property, from the central overgrown terrace to the fragrant citrus garden. Each room is unique, all are decorated with locally made shaggy rugs, vibrant woven Moroccan kilims and thick blankets in bright hues and prints, original art, and handcrafted local celadon glazed ceramics. Multiple areas of secret garden seating in courtyards and elevated terraces, bins of logs are stocked for warm fires in the chilly evenings.

The rooms and rambling buildings blend traditional and modern aesthetics, the property was crafted by local artisans utilizing raw natural materials and ancient building techniques. The owner, a collector of everything and a master of staging. There is something interesting to catch your eye in every corner inside and outside.

Many of the rooms have shallow fireplaces which are tended to every night and morning by a man who just builds fires, he visited my little fireplace often which kept my living room cozy and warm.

My upstairs suite had a massive terrace overlooking one of the two pools. Furnished with loungers and chairs, it would be a delightful haven during warm weather. Cats curled up outside, a pride of peacock’s strut and called out from an upper rooftop. Initially, I was convinced a mewing cat was stuck in my suite, until I realized it was the call of the peacocks.

Dar al Hossoun

Touring nearby: the city of Taroudant has the feel of a small fortified market town on a caravan route and is known for its local crafts, including jewelry and carpets. Unlike Marrakesh, almost the entire town is located inside its walls. Visit the medina and ramparts in a horse-drawn carriage before returning to the riad for an afternoon nap. Moroccans love their naps and I’ve become a convert!

The late Chilean hyperrealist artist Claudio Bravo built a superb palace Palais Claudio Bravo Camus, in the countryside near the riad. The palace features Bravo’s work, multiple collections as well as pieces by his artist friends, including Picasso. We visited the beautifully furnished interiors and the courtyard with gardens meandering to the lake for tea and exquisite views. As if it were another century, two very large, majestic horses trotted around the lake.  

With its stunning gardens, Dar Al Hossoun is a haven of tranquility near the medieval town. The age-old ochre ramparts of Taroudant are a mere five-minute drive away. Surrounded by swathes of ancient olive groves the quaint riad blends with the landscape.

The property has a wonderfully serene atmosphere, with multiple indoor and outdoor areas to relax and contemplate your Journey. Alfresco naps amid the fragrant jasmine, or on the edge of one of the gin-clear swimming pools, or in the interconnecting garden of the enormous, rare cactus. There is a spa onsite offering clay wraps and massages, while those feeling more adventuresome can venture outside the gates for hikes, bike rides or visits to authentic Berber villages. 

Meals: Breakfast is served until a leisurely 11 am in an upstairs dining room or alfresco on the terrace, or as I do, in bed. Seasonal fruit, warm from the oven bread, homemade jams, pastries, crepes and fresh eggs. The Moroccan-meets-Mediterranean lunch and dinner menus offer seasonal produce from the organic garden, grilled meat, fish, and Moroccan specialties such as tagines and couscous, steak and fish. The young chef was formerly at Morimoto’s. Have a poolside cocktail or champers in the garden under the sun or amid the palms under the st

Dinner in a private salon at Dar Al Hossoun

I never dined in the same space. Arrival lunch was served in a glass box warmed by a wood fire, rain dribbling down the glass overlooking the sunken garden. Cocktails served every evening in the cozy bar, where we taught the bartender to make my summer sipper, an Aviation! One late night supper was served in a glorious salon warmed by a wood fire, the room decorated with antique African masks and pottery. It inspired hours of intimate conversation, the chef popped in to describe the menu, the owner visited to say hello, I didn’t want to depart!

Dar Al Hossoun is a magical hidden oasis, an hour’s drive from the Agadir international airport and three hours from Marrakech. No stoplights, no big-name hotels, no tiring tourist traffic, just a sleepy haven for relaxation amid a landscape of over 900 plant species, birdsong, strutting peacocks, and an abundance of friendly cats.

A plethora of outings, including the medieval forgotten fortress Iguiliz, an architectural heritage site, can be arranged by staff. Nestled in the foothills of the Anti-Atlas chain , an excursion offers you an opportunity to hike for hours on a mule track that leads to the bottom of a beautiful canyon. Palm groves of over 20,00 palms are located in Tiout, where Biblical landscapes, a rural pace of 7 hamlets and 300 families living nearby, in these centuries old groves. Enjoy a traditional lunch of Berber cuisine on carpets under a nomadic tent in the heart of the palm grove.

Don’t let a rainy muddy day dissuade you, there is a Garden of Eden paradise behind the bulky gates! Highly Recommend Dar Al Hossoun!

Dar al Hossoun Spring Blossoms