My Enduring Moroccan Fantasy, Frolics on the Beach!

My Morocco Fantasy is to deeply explore more and more of this fascinating country, region by region. My 19 Day Camel Caravan in November took me to the interior areas, the picturesque sand dunes of the Sahara with perfectly contoured ripples and undulating crests, the rugged Atlas Mountains, miles and miles of jagged peaks, and a mesmerizing stay in the oldest royal city, the ancient fortifications of Fez. 

My recent Camel Caravan Journey II, focused on the sand and the sea. La Sultana Oualidia is the petite sister hotel of the luxury La Sultana Riad in Marrakech, described as the Sea and the City properties. This hidden gem nestled on the Atlantic coast, between Safi and El Jadida, sits above a greenish lagoon, dotted with oyster beds. The tides provide the rhythm of life for guests and the delectable oysters in a landscape of hypnotic beauty. El Jadida is a cozy little fishing town, famous for its seafood and in particular, its yummy oysters. 

La Sultana Oualidia Infinity Pool

The first “royal beach” designated by King Mohamed V when he built a palace in the 1940’s, it was eventually abandoned but has now been rediscovered by ‘those in the know’. In fact, the beach area closer to Agadir has a prime big name luxury resort under construction. The Coast is calling in Morocco! Surfers flock here for awesome waves.

On Morocco’s western coast, this sleepy sister hotel to La Sultana Marrakech rests on a prime perch of wild coast, fringed by protected birdlife and surfing beaches, with miles of sandy beaches, perfect for beach walkers. The five-star resort includes two pools, beautiful rambling gardens, an extensive spa and a wonderful restaurant featuring fish – including live lobster & crab tanks – pluck your supper directly from a tank. 

La Sultana Oualidia is designed as a family home, with private terraces, unique collections by designers, beautiful objects unearthed in markets, and contemporary paintings, guests can opt for getting away from it all, or setting off to discover nature. 

Oysters arrived to Oualidia via an innovative Frenchman in the 1950’s; observing the rich environment of the tidal lagoon and an opportunity and aspiration were born! Portuguese oysters were first raised here, giving way later in the 1970’s to a Japanese variety which is principally the type of oysters cultivated today and valued throughout Morocco.

The Concierge team at La Sultana Oualidia work their magic suggesting a wide array of activities intended to keep you active or help you plan quiet sedate activities. I opted for leisurely on property activities at a slower pace! For those who prefer movement, we can organize yoga, surfing, fishing, picnics facing the ocean, birdwatching, horse-riding. Our Moroccan team can also plan off property excursions and a Camel Caravan seaside route, which is how I travel!

La Sultana Oualidia offers 12 stylish rooms and suites, with private terraces and Jacuzzis, a newish small cabin suite is perched like a mini-bird house in the trees, a dreamy infinity pool floats on the edge of the lagoon, a heated indoor pool, a small but well-equipped gym, an authentic Hammam and spa, several restaurants, and a delectable oyster-bar with views of the sandy lagoon. For a petite property, many offerings. This is the Montauk of Morocco!

Sheltered from the wind, thanks to the lagoon, the temperature is mild all year long. I would suggest off season as summer is buzzy and the size of the property is conducive to quieter months. My March visit was perfect – lovely beach weather, warm star-studded evenings, and very few guests!

La Sultana Oualidia Dreamy Evening View

The concierge organized a lavish private picnic on a secluded Atlantic beach. Crossing the lagoon in a fisherman’s rustic boat and visiting the oyster beds, I hopped out and hiked through a flower filled field to the top of a hill – to gaze down at a long sandy beach and the crashing Atlantic Ocean. A transformative change in scenery, two hotel staff provided a soccer ball, and a kite for play. The breeze rippled the canvas shelter, I sat watching kids explore tide pools. Sipping a glass of chilled Moroccan white wine, lost in thought and plotting more Moroccan Fantasies!

Fresh crab, little langoustines and just caught fish were barbecued by the staff, multiple courses of salad and couscous emerged from big straw baskets, an opulent beach banquet! A customary Moroccan nap under the undulating canvas concluded my enchanting picnic before crossing the lagoon at high tide! 

La Sultana Oualidia Lagoon

The striking main building of La Sultana Oualidia, is a stone casbah-like building with turrets protruding toward sky. Suites are traditional in style, featuring stained-glass windows decorated with Moroccan symbols. The property is studded with greenery, gardens merge with small pools, wooden bridges span Koi filled pools. Birdsong, bees, and sea birds compliment the gardens. 

Breakfast is served in a small pavilion, or as I do, brekkie delivered to bed! Highly recommend the homemade vanilla yoghurt and tender clouds of scrambled eggs. The green ‘restorative juice’ must have been sent by the Champagne Police! Wander below the terraces to a jetty which serves local oysters. Slurp a dish of briny oysters with a chilled flute of bubbly!

You come to Oualidia to relax! End a day as I did with a private Berber Tent dinner on the beach at sunset. Fire-pits illuminate the cozy space at the edge of the lagoon restaurant. A lobster trifecta feast sated me over my three nights – live lobster from the tank, barbecue lobster under the Berber tent and Lobster Paella on the sand.

Birdwatching is very popular in spring and autumn when migrating flocks travel from Europe to Africa. Exotic birds including graceful flamingos, white egrets and huge storks are just a few of the flying feathered creatures. 

La Sultana Oualidia is 2.5-hour drive from Marrakech and a 2.5-hour drive from Casablanca airport. The two-lane road from Marrakech is well paved and has many turnouts to break the drive, peer over the edge of the tall cliffs and observe massive waves rolling in from an infinite horizon. A windy day transforms one into a human kite or a wobbly windmill tilting in the breeze on the edge of the steep precipices. Mother Nature owns her world on these windy bluffs. Surfing and windsurfing aficionados revere these beach areas, not far from the secluded lagoon of La Sultana Oualidia. 

There is a weekly market on the weekends if you desire a souk stroll. Moroccans from the village and surrounding areas come for their shopping. Wander the stalls tasting gorgeous produce and home goods. 

Who can resist fluffy Flamingos, succulent lobster, an indoor plunge under a glass gazebo, an authentic Hammam, bountiful beach picnics, Berber Tent dinners under a jet black sky, and the wild untamed Atlantic beckoning along the coast?  Oh, did I mention the briny oysters!?

La Sultana, Oualidia a coastal Moroccan sanctuary, feed your fantasies.

Irresistible and I Highly Recommend! 

House of Dreams – Dar Ahlam

There’s little about this 19th-century Kasbah that won’t leave you wanting to return. Dar Ahlam the House of Dreams. Relish a land of adventure from this Kasbah near Ouarzazate, the gateway to the Moroccan desert. One of the most luxurious properties in Morocco, in a 19th Century Kasbah.

Dar Ahlam, Skoura

On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Pale terracotta colored stone meets brilliant blue skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Perched between the town of Skoura and the imposing Atlas Mountains, in what was once the hunting grounds of a Sultan. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom, olive groves, dates, and oranges. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty in the privacy of your own luxury tent.

The décor changes with the seasons, sumptuous fabrics and colors bringing the environment to life. Days at Dar Ahlam are long and luxurious. Without the distractions of television and technology, you can truly unwind. Instead, indulge in a massage under the olive trees or head off for refreshments by the river. A perfect blend of French antiques, African art, create the perfect harmony of old-world charm and modern luxury comforts. Spend a balmy evening atop the Kasbah, aperitif in hand, before feasting on a freshly prepared supper under the vast endless sky.

Beyond the walls of Dar Ahlam lies all the mystery of the desert. Explore the dunes on camelback for a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience, surrounding yourself with the golden sands of the Sahara as you’re pampered in your private luxury tent for a night under the stars.

Kasbah where I enjoyed a private lunch

Dar Ahlam does not allocate the suites in advance, but all are spacious, with air-conditioning, fireplaces, roomy bathrooms, and a view of the Atlas Mountains. The 1920s Kasbah building has 18 rooms, some inside the seductively dark main building; others, with intimate terraces sit amid the gorgeous gardens. I circled around the Kasbah amid the vast chambers of cool tadelakt plaster walls to locate my suite, hidden behind a massive arched wooden door that quietly slid closed. The interiors are muted tones of sand and earthy grey which repeat the neutral, natural furniture materials, local Berber rugs warm up the floors.
 
There’s a sapphire tone to the outdoor heated pool, which has massive Roman steps and is surrounded by comfy sun loungers, request an umbrella and it instantly appears. I read one morning as birds fluttered and chirped around me, I have very fond memories of my days here at the Kasbah.
 
Vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen are grown on the grounds and there is also a large patch of olive trees that are harvested by locals.
 
Meals are an enchanting daily surprise: tables are set up in different locations depending on the day’s theme. The menu combines traditional Moroccan specialties and the latest culinary innovations. My meal locations ranged from an olive tree shaded garden table to a private lunch in a nearby ancient Kasbah. The call to prayer sounded nearby, I closed my eyes and could imagine an ancient village with sounds of wooden donkey carts, and the clippty clop of horses. One particularly enchanting private dinner was set amid a thousand candles in a ruby red room, it was exquisite. The first evening sunset found me at the top of the highest hill, enjoying an exclusive tea ceremony, a bonfire outlined the darkening sky as a poet recited sonnets.

A traditional hammam and spa offers authentic scrubbings.  Make your way down dim, candlelit corridors to discover small, tiled treatment rooms. Say yes to full body scrub, shampoo and dry!

One common denominator, all the mountain ranges have in common: The Berber people. Berbers are a welcoming people with strong traditions, it’s more than dates and rosewater. Traditional subsistence farming is the norm in the Atlas Mountains, with small farms producing nuts and fruits, local sheep and goat herders can be seen along the roads.
 
I would return in a heartbeat to enjoy morning hikes in the Atlas Mountains and afternoons basking poolside. I left a piece of my heart at Dar Ahlam.
 

Sunset Tea Ceremony with a Poet