My Enduring Moroccan Fantasy, Frolics on the Beach!

My Morocco Fantasy is to deeply explore more and more of this fascinating country, region by region. My 19 Day Camel Caravan in November took me to the interior areas, the picturesque sand dunes of the Sahara with perfectly contoured ripples and undulating crests, the rugged Atlas Mountains, miles and miles of jagged peaks, and a mesmerizing stay in the oldest royal city, the ancient fortifications of Fez. 

My recent Camel Caravan Journey II, focused on the sand and the sea. La Sultana Oualidia is the petite sister hotel of the luxury La Sultana Riad in Marrakech, described as the Sea and the City properties. This hidden gem nestled on the Atlantic coast, between Safi and El Jadida, sits above a greenish lagoon, dotted with oyster beds. The tides provide the rhythm of life for guests and the delectable oysters in a landscape of hypnotic beauty. El Jadida is a cozy little fishing town, famous for its seafood and in particular, its yummy oysters. 

La Sultana Oualidia Infinity Pool

The first “royal beach” designated by King Mohamed V when he built a palace in the 1940’s, it was eventually abandoned but has now been rediscovered by ‘those in the know’. In fact, the beach area closer to Agadir has a prime big name luxury resort under construction. The Coast is calling in Morocco! Surfers flock here for awesome waves.

On Morocco’s western coast, this sleepy sister hotel to La Sultana Marrakech rests on a prime perch of wild coast, fringed by protected birdlife and surfing beaches, with miles of sandy beaches, perfect for beach walkers. The five-star resort includes two pools, beautiful rambling gardens, an extensive spa and a wonderful restaurant featuring fish – including live lobster & crab tanks – pluck your supper directly from a tank. 

La Sultana Oualidia is designed as a family home, with private terraces, unique collections by designers, beautiful objects unearthed in markets, and contemporary paintings, guests can opt for getting away from it all, or setting off to discover nature. 

Oysters arrived to Oualidia via an innovative Frenchman in the 1950’s; observing the rich environment of the tidal lagoon and an opportunity and aspiration were born! Portuguese oysters were first raised here, giving way later in the 1970’s to a Japanese variety which is principally the type of oysters cultivated today and valued throughout Morocco.

The Concierge team at La Sultana Oualidia work their magic suggesting a wide array of activities intended to keep you active or help you plan quiet sedate activities. I opted for leisurely on property activities at a slower pace! For those who prefer movement, we can organize yoga, surfing, fishing, picnics facing the ocean, birdwatching, horse-riding. Our Moroccan team can also plan off property excursions and a Camel Caravan seaside route, which is how I travel!

La Sultana Oualidia offers 12 stylish rooms and suites, with private terraces and Jacuzzis, a newish small cabin suite is perched like a mini-bird house in the trees, a dreamy infinity pool floats on the edge of the lagoon, a heated indoor pool, a small but well-equipped gym, an authentic Hammam and spa, several restaurants, and a delectable oyster-bar with views of the sandy lagoon. For a petite property, many offerings. This is the Montauk of Morocco!

Sheltered from the wind, thanks to the lagoon, the temperature is mild all year long. I would suggest off season as summer is buzzy and the size of the property is conducive to quieter months. My March visit was perfect – lovely beach weather, warm star-studded evenings, and very few guests!

La Sultana Oualidia Dreamy Evening View

The concierge organized a lavish private picnic on a secluded Atlantic beach. Crossing the lagoon in a fisherman’s rustic boat and visiting the oyster beds, I hopped out and hiked through a flower filled field to the top of a hill – to gaze down at a long sandy beach and the crashing Atlantic Ocean. A transformative change in scenery, two hotel staff provided a soccer ball, and a kite for play. The breeze rippled the canvas shelter, I sat watching kids explore tide pools. Sipping a glass of chilled Moroccan white wine, lost in thought and plotting more Moroccan Fantasies!

Fresh crab, little langoustines and just caught fish were barbecued by the staff, multiple courses of salad and couscous emerged from big straw baskets, an opulent beach banquet! A customary Moroccan nap under the undulating canvas concluded my enchanting picnic before crossing the lagoon at high tide! 

La Sultana Oualidia Lagoon

The striking main building of La Sultana Oualidia, is a stone casbah-like building with turrets protruding toward sky. Suites are traditional in style, featuring stained-glass windows decorated with Moroccan symbols. The property is studded with greenery, gardens merge with small pools, wooden bridges span Koi filled pools. Birdsong, bees, and sea birds compliment the gardens. 

Breakfast is served in a small pavilion, or as I do, brekkie delivered to bed! Highly recommend the homemade vanilla yoghurt and tender clouds of scrambled eggs. The green ‘restorative juice’ must have been sent by the Champagne Police! Wander below the terraces to a jetty which serves local oysters. Slurp a dish of briny oysters with a chilled flute of bubbly!

You come to Oualidia to relax! End a day as I did with a private Berber Tent dinner on the beach at sunset. Fire-pits illuminate the cozy space at the edge of the lagoon restaurant. A lobster trifecta feast sated me over my three nights – live lobster from the tank, barbecue lobster under the Berber tent and Lobster Paella on the sand.

Birdwatching is very popular in spring and autumn when migrating flocks travel from Europe to Africa. Exotic birds including graceful flamingos, white egrets and huge storks are just a few of the flying feathered creatures. 

La Sultana Oualidia is 2.5-hour drive from Marrakech and a 2.5-hour drive from Casablanca airport. The two-lane road from Marrakech is well paved and has many turnouts to break the drive, peer over the edge of the tall cliffs and observe massive waves rolling in from an infinite horizon. A windy day transforms one into a human kite or a wobbly windmill tilting in the breeze on the edge of the steep precipices. Mother Nature owns her world on these windy bluffs. Surfing and windsurfing aficionados revere these beach areas, not far from the secluded lagoon of La Sultana Oualidia. 

There is a weekly market on the weekends if you desire a souk stroll. Moroccans from the village and surrounding areas come for their shopping. Wander the stalls tasting gorgeous produce and home goods. 

Who can resist fluffy Flamingos, succulent lobster, an indoor plunge under a glass gazebo, an authentic Hammam, bountiful beach picnics, Berber Tent dinners under a jet black sky, and the wild untamed Atlantic beckoning along the coast?  Oh, did I mention the briny oysters!?

La Sultana, Oualidia a coastal Moroccan sanctuary, feed your fantasies.

Irresistible and I Highly Recommend! 

Morocco beyond Marrakesh Nomadic Escape

Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent, its soul lies in the cradle of its North African coastal home. A historically independent nation, it has always been a multi-cultural ancient crossroad for trade, ideas, and migratory people. There is a rhythm and beauty and an ethereal light, its charms have wooed travelers, poets, and artists, inspiring some of them to never leave. Kandinsky, Matisse, and Renoir were pleased by its evocative temptations. A heady mix of the Orient, Arabian nights, and Muslim influences.

Le Sultan du Maroc by Eugène Delacroix in Tangier

The imperial cities of Marrakesh, Rabat, Fez and Meknes offer innumerable architectural buildings left by former rulers. An enchanting country, a favorite of mine and our clients for many, many years. Besides intimate city exploration, we can include authentic desert tents along with dauntless camels to scale the dunes at sunset and sunrise…let your imagination be boundless! From the desolate deserts to domed mosques, splendid imperial palaces and tombs, the impressive tranquil Atlas Mountains, where the rich and colorful Berber culture beguiles every visitor. Morocco is truly an enticing destination. You will hear the call to prayer, Adhan, one of the finest resonances in Morocco, which takes places five times a day. Recited or sung by a muezzin at prescribed times of the day. The root of the word is ʾadhina أَذِنَ meaning “to listen’. The beauty of the call lies in its melody reverberating from the mosque minarets in the still of night or the chaos of the day. I’m captivated by it. Why not practice being quiet five times a day and be grateful for life?

Chefchaouen, Morocco

To truly explore, allow three weeks for a deep immersion, less time would focus on several cities and a sojourn in the Atlas Mountains. A thumbnail look at a longer Journey, follow me in autumn when I return to this charmed country of colorful souks, the melodious call to prayer and a visit to the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, where women are allowed to visit. Although it is only the 7th largest mosque in the world, Hassan II claims the title of having the largest minaret in the world. Capped with a spotlight that shines east towards Mecca, the minaret is 700-feet tall, towering above the Atlantic Ocean. 

Southern Morocco is a land of tales and legends. Khamilia home of ancient Gnawa tribe where you can stay and sing with these magicians by the fireplace, the road of the ancient Kasbahs, the Drâa Valley, Tamegrouote and its ancient library counting books from the 14th century brought by pilgrims, the dry lake of Iriki.

Tangier, Morocco

Moroccan cuisine has gained massive followers among food connoisseurs. Staples of most meals include lamb, fish, and fowl, including pigeon, which is considered a delicacy when baked in pastry, the b’stillah is a national favorite. Vegetables including tomatoes, eggplants and onions are typically served with the well known and loved couscous. Bread, or Khob, as in many Middle Eastern and North African countries is considered a deep cultural symbol as well as a daily staple. Crusty, round flattish loaves are often baked on a girdle over an open flame or earthen ovens.  Mint tea is served everywhere in dainty tulip glasses.

An ancient Moroccan proverb: “manage with bread and butter until God sends honey”.

Moroccan woman making Bread or Khob,

Home to Morocco’s primary international airport, Casablanca is the main gateway into the country for many visitors and often their first taste of the country. This city is an industry and business powerhouse and compared to the exotic charms of Marrakesh and Fez, it can’t compete. There is a European touch to much of its architecture, and the city has a modern swagger that is unseen in other parts of the country.

Although Casablanca’s tourist sights and attractions may not be as obvious as those elsewhere, you will find some gems if you dig a little deeper. The medina quarter is a charming area and much smaller and easier to navigate than those elsewhere. And the colossal Hassan II Mosque is top of the list on most sightseeing checklists. For film buffs, there is nothing more synonymous with this city than the 1942 cinematic classic Casablanca. Apart from Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, the movie’s real star was Rick’s Café, where much of the action took place.

TGV to Tangier and Chefchaouen. Tangier has long been romanticized by artists, writers, and esoteric Beat poets, who arrived at its lively shores chasing escapades. On the Northern tip of Morocco, Tangier, an ancient white walled seaside city is the crossroads to Europe.  In the 1920’s to the 1950’s it was long known as a haven to bohemian artists and an avant-garde literary community. Known for its brightly tiled interiors and in particular, a rambling estate garden of legendary Italian horticulturist and writer Umberto Pasti and his celebrated garden Rohuna. Like Matisse and Delacroix before you, wander through streets lined with whitewashed houses and allow yourself to be transported by the dreamy atmosphere of the city. With wide boulevards, a medina revealing Moorish craftsmanship, and European colonial influences, Tangier retains an enduring eccentricity, and an undeniable charm.

Two hours southeast of Tangier, is Chefchaouen, the Blue City, the Blue Pearl of Morocco, an otherworldly escape sits high up in Morocco’s Rif Mountains. Surrounded by striking green valleys which are a vibrant contrast to the beautiful blue and white houses and mosques. There are endless opportunities for scenic hikes and walks in the Rif Mountains that surround Chefchaouen. Artisan shops offer traditional hand-made goods including handwoven rugs, Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and ironwork, jewelry, caftans, and woven baskets.

Further south lies Fez, Morocco’s spiritual and cultural capital. Fez vies with Marrakesh for the title of Morocco’s most exotic city. This is the country’s spiritual capital, and despite the encroachment of modernity, it has maintained its authentic appeal down through the ages, holding onto its stately bearing as an Imperial City. Its minaret and dome-punctured skyline and timeless, crumbling Islamic architecture are top things to see for travelers.

Only one suggestion of the multiple exclusive torus we can offer here. Architecture and Islamic garden Tours Lose yourself in the gardens of ancient palaces and exotic Riads perfumed with orange blossoms, citrus, blood red roses and the sweetest jasmine. The tour combines an overview of the fascinating and beautiful world of Moroccan Architecture which showcases all the main ornamentation and decorative techniques from floral motifs, geometry, ceramics to calligraphy, symbolic of the rich cultural heritage of the vast Islamic empire and uncovers the mysteries of the Islamic concept of Chahar-bagh, the four-fold garden and leads us to discover earthly paradise revisited.

Overnight at Riad Fes Restored to its original glory, this Relais & Châteaux property is in the Medina, in the heart of the ancient city of Fez. Riad Fès is renowned for its luxury, impeccable service, and fine restaurant, it has been restored to its original glory in the heart of the ancient city, a serene atmosphere with decor reminiscent of Arabian Nights. 

Sahara Desert. Overnight Desert Luxury Camp

Skoura. Surprisingly lush and abrupt as it springs from the tawny landscape, Skoura deserves a lingering look for its kasbahs and its rich concentration of date palm, olive, fig, and almond trees. Pathways tunnel through the vegetation from one kasbah to another within this fertile island—a true oasis, perhaps the most intensely verdant in Morocco. Skoura is such a magical place, that if you’re on a grand tour of the Great Oasis Valleys, think about basing yourself here.

Stay Dar Ahlam. On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Terracotta colored stone meets cerulean skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Experience a land of adventure from this Kasbah near Ouarzazate, gateway to the Moroccan desert. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty in the privacy of your own luxury tent. Secluded by palm groves and almond trees at the edge of the Moroccan desert, this two-hundred-year-old rammed earth Kasbah the color of Champagne is an original maison des rêves. Gracefully made over with all modern comforts and the necessary technology, this singular fourteen room hideaway overlooks the Atlas Mountains, with a palm shaded swimming pool, hammam and candle-lit massage room. Dar Ahlam is not so much a hotel as a team of over 100 people dedicated entirely to you. Meals are customized and served to you among a selection of distinct, private settings like their flourishing gardens by Louis Benech, the gifted designer of the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris and the Bosquet du Théâtre d’Eau at Versailles.

Trek into the Valley of Roses, explore among the corn stalks and pomegranate trees of a nearby palmeraie and drive to the hilltop vestiges of a 12th century Berber village for a traditional tea ceremony at dusk.

Off to the High Atlas Mountains at indulgent and magical Kasbah Tamadot, where days are spent hiking to nearby villages, doing sunrise yoga, and immersing oneself in the unique Berber culture. Situated in the spectacular Atlas Mountains in Morocco, the award-winning Kasbah Tamadot is owned by Sir Richard Branson. This 28-bedroom hotel is perched at the top of a valley with views up to Mount Toubkal and over to some of the traditional Berber villages that dot around the region. Postcards soon from my Berber tent, the private deck is equipped with loungers to soak up the views and where I will enjoy outdoor dining under an ebony sky bursting with a thousand stars.  My Berber Tent Suite is awaiting my arrival!

In the Berber language, Kasbah Tamadot means ‘soft breeze’. It’s easy to imagine you’re a million miles away from it all in the gorgeous surroundings of Kasbah Tamadot. Located in Asni, a little village and marketplace in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, an area inhabited by the friendly Berbers,

File:Berber village Atlas.jpg
Berber Village in the Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Depart the magical Kasbah for a short ride through the mountains to Marrakech. The maze of souks must be explored in the covered bazar, I wouldn’t navigate without a guide, pedestrian movement can be interrupted by beasts of burden, mostly donkeys; the scent tells you of the wares. Every type of similar object sits side by side, the leather merchants rest on mounds of bags, prices aren’t marked, it’s a plucky game of negotiation. The Spice Traders Square is the epicenter of the medina, the fabric covered market tables groan under the weight of conical towers of pungent spices. Mysterious herbalist concoctions, baskets brimming with rose petals, this is the best place to purchase the well-known ras el hanout, the famous Moroccan spice blend. Argan oil is best found in a pharmacy as it is a staple product.  Open air vendors will tempt you with their colorful wares and snake charmers do exist on the famed Jamaa el Fna Square, in the Marrakech medina quarter.

Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle is a must visit, designed in 1920 by famed French painter Jacques Majorelle. Historic museums, surfing on the coast and trekking in the great Atlas Mountains are only a few of the striking and authentic offerings. Private visits can be arranged to the Yves Saint Laurent home, Villa Oasis, followed by a privately guided tour to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, where guests are taken into two worlds dear to Yves Saint Laurent’s heart: fashion and Morocco. This awe-inspiring museum exhibits a significant part of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent’s collection, and is a legacy to Marrakech, a city that held such a crucial place in Yves Saint Laurent’s life. The Museum of African Contemporary Art is the first museum dedicated to African Art in Morocco, giving a voice to young, emerging, and established artists, to be proud of their roots in their continent.

Many exclusive tour options but two I am interested in doing besides roaming the souks and private gardens. Calligraphy means “beautiful writing” and Arabic calligraphy (or more properly, Islamic calligraphy) is considered a high art form in the Arab world and is increasingly gaining recognition and appreciation worldwide. Evening Cocktails with Private Storytelling The Moroccan tradition of Hikayat, or storytelling dates back almost 1, 000 years. Some stories were recorded and other stories are passed orally. Hikayat was used as a way to pass on cultural beliefs, such as moral lessons to children and to entertain people on long winter nights. This form of entertainment was found in cities throughout Morocco but today Marrakech’s Jemaa El Fna square is the only city that’s keeping this tradition alive. Reserve one evening to enjoy a private session of this dying art in the comfort and peace of your hotel with the master Storyteller Ahmed Ezzarghani in both Arabic and English before dinner.

Moroccan Tradition of Storytelling Revives in Marrakech

In Marrakech as in other larger metropolitan cities, there are two choices for hotels, authentic chic riads within the walls of the ancient medina for a truly cultural mix or at larger hotels outside the medina. Or stay in both, enjoy the medina culture in the old walled city, where you can walk everywhere amid the fascinating maze of streets or escape the constant activity and slumber outside the walls in luxurious five star hotels. Something for every taste.

Activities have been carefully designed to provide our clients with some of the best experiences that are available in Morocco. We can tailor the activities to your needs, creating full day programs and include meals, fun elements or romantic touches to make your stay in this exotic country truly magical and memory making! An awe-inspiring country with a solid sense of culture.

“As a young child I wanted to be a writer because writers were rich and famous. They lounged around Singapore and Rangoon smoking opium in a yellow pongee silk suit. They sniffed cocaine in Mayfair and they penetrated forbidden swamps with a faithful native boy and lived in the native quarter of Tangier smoking hashish and languidly caressing a pet gazelle.”

— William S. Burroughs