Chefchaouen, the Blue Pearl of Morocco

An otherworldly escape sits high up in Morocco’s Rif Mountains. Surrounded by striking green valleys which are a vibrant contrast to the beautiful blue and white houses and mosques.

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Chefchaouen, Morocco

A typical path to reach the ancient blue city known for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town; wake up in Tangier, enjoy a short two-hour drive southeast to Chefchaouen, the Blue Pearl of Morocco. Leather and weaving workshops line its steep cobbled lanes. In the shady main square of Place Outa el Hammam the red-walled Kasbah, a 15th-century fortress and dungeon.

There are endless opportunities for scenic hikes and walks in the Rif Mountains that surround Chefchaouen. Artisan shops offer traditional hand-made goods including handwoven rugs, Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and ironwork, jewelry, caftans, and woven baskets.

Known for its weaving culture, and given its cool winter climate, the ponchos, blankets, and djellabas produced in Chefchaouen are exceptional quality, my December visit, although the weather was pleasant, motivated a purchase of a snuggly wool djellaba! Its old medina is filled with local artisans who create hand-made goods ranging from woodwork to colorful woven carpets, blankets and scarves, impressive earthen round pottery and hand-painted furniture.

My stay at Lina Riad and spa – close enough to the village to walk down the stairs to the village, but above the noise and crowds. A tranquil oasis with an indoor pool, reserved privately for guests. One of the best Chicken Tajine dinners in Morocco, from my window balcony! Enjoy breathtaking views of Chefchaouen from the expansive roof terrace, perfect for relaxation.

Its heritage is rich, the inescapable Medina with its famous narrow winding alleys, is an opportunity to mingle with the local population, and to smell and taste delights: from freshly baked bread to skillfully prepared tagines. This is one of the few towns with an original public oven and an old public water fountain. There is also the Kasbah which stands in the middle of the old quarter: its lush gardens, located in the center of the city.

The essentials of Chefchaouen: crafts, the ethnographic museum, Ras Elma. The museum offers visitors an insight into the culture and history of the region through a collection of ethnographic objects. You’ll find exhibits featuring traditional costumes, jewelry, musical instruments, ancient weapons, craft tools and other artifacts that reflect daily life and local traditions.

As you explore the museum, discover the different facets of Berber, Arab and Andalusian culture that have influenced the region over the centuries. It’s a great way to learn more about the rich and diverse history of the area and its people.

Ras El Maa Waterfall is one of the most beautiful and prominent natural landmarks in the charming city. This waterfall is extremely popular with visitors and tourists from all over the world, thanks to its unique beauty and captivating natural charm.

Oasis Tiout – Morocco. A Journey Through Time

I’d never explored an Oasis; I was intrigued by the expedition offered by our dear friends at Dar Hossoun in Taroudant. 

A short drive from the property, it’s always a scenic journey in Morocco, where you pass through small villages which come to life on Market Day, I adore seeing local people going about their lives. Donkey carts trotting on the edge of the highway, their rattan baskets brimming with just harvested vegetables. Young boys riding sidesaddle atop a mule, perhaps on his way home from school. Enormous hay trucks precariously leaning to one side…loading the huge hay trucks is an art form! The adobe houses, with their ornate wooden doors, are photo worthy. Every alley has a story to tell, children playing between earthen walls, offering a glimpse into the traditional Berber way of life.

Tiout Oasis is a perfect picturesque day-trip destination from either Taroudant or Agadir, offering visitors a serene atmosphere, breathtaking natural scenery, and an authentic glimpse into Amazigh (Berber) village life. Nestled at the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, it is easily accessible by car, there are always interesting sites en route to their field trips!

Begin at the top of the hill where an ancient Kasbah is perched, dating back to the Saadian period, (16th Century). The Tiout palm grove is a maze of greenery at the foot of the Kasbah.

Kasbah in Tiout

Far from the typical tourist tracks, the Oasis is a unique blend of plantings. I’ve seen a Palm Oasis from the road, not knowing that plants or buildings were scattered amid the palm trees. The palm groves stretch endlessly, a sea of green against the dry ochre earth.

As you begin the walk or if you prefer, hire a mule and trot through the oasis! Palm trees sway in the gentle breeze, casting cool shadows over the sandy paths and tidy rows of vegetables. A loud braying donkey hides in the orchards of pomegranate, oranges and olives. Birds swoop and pluck bugs out of the air. Wander at your own pace along the winding paths through the oasis. It was surprising to see a variety of plantations, from fig and olive trees to almond trees and plots of wheat and vegetables. Every turn offers a new surprise, all under the cover of towering palms.

Tiout Oasis

At the edge of the fields, you may hear the trickle of water before you discover the centuries old cement irrigation channels, the ‘seguias’, the traditional irrigation channels. The channels have manual locks, to divert the water to various fields. An abundant water source irrigates the oasis, where many irrigation canals crisscross the landscape, families monitor the flow and take turns shutting and diverting the flow of the canals.

The oasis is a testament to the ingenuity of the Berber people who carved out the intricate irrigation channels in the midst of a desert environment. The channels are a lifeline for the thousands of palm trees and the locals who live nearby.

What a pleasant surprise to discover a few small restaurants serving traditional lunch amid the palms. Florence, the lovely owner of Dar Hossoun, made us a lunch reservation; under the tranquil shade of a large tent, the walls and floors were covered in multicolored patterns and prints, comfy cushions and low tables set the stage for an amazing Moroccan banquet. Begin with washing your hands from a small pitcher and marvel at the endless array of delectable treats delivered from the tiny kitchen. The woman and her son who own the restaurant make everything fresh, including the bread she was patiently kneading.

We encountered a few artisans along the twisting paths; I’m always an easy sell for a local artist! Along a wide clearing, one enterprising woman was renting enormous handmade blankets to visitors to use while they picnic or snooze under the palms. She had beautiful bushels of fragrant spices and herbs – again, I am a good consumer, supporting the locals everywhere I travel!

At the end of the oasis path, we discovered the piscine!  The crystal-clear waters of the pool are surrounded by lush greenery, soak in the beauty of nature!

Captivating villages, a shady oasis, locals tending to crops, donkeys, still the beasts of burden; its stepping back in time—daily scenes that still define life in Tiout today; an authentic charming atmosphere.

Highly Recommend!