Morocco beyond Marrakesh Nomadic Escape

Morocco is a land of legends and fascination, despite its closeness to the European continent, its soul lies in the cradle of its North African coastal home. A historically independent nation, it has always been a multi-cultural ancient crossroad for trade, ideas, and migratory people. There is a rhythm and beauty and an ethereal light, its charms have wooed travelers, poets, and artists, inspiring some of them to never leave. Kandinsky, Matisse, and Renoir were pleased by its evocative temptations. A heady mix of the Orient, Arabian nights, and Muslim influences.

Le Sultan du Maroc by Eugène Delacroix in Tangier

The imperial cities of Marrakesh, Rabat, Fez and Meknes offer innumerable architectural buildings left by former rulers. An enchanting country, a favorite of mine and our clients for many, many years. Besides intimate city exploration, we can include authentic desert tents along with dauntless camels to scale the dunes at sunset and sunrise…let your imagination be boundless! From the desolate deserts to domed mosques, splendid imperial palaces and tombs, the impressive tranquil Atlas Mountains, where the rich and colorful Berber culture beguiles every visitor. Morocco is truly an enticing destination. You will hear the call to prayer, Adhan, one of the finest resonances in Morocco, which takes places five times a day. Recited or sung by a muezzin at prescribed times of the day. The root of the word is ʾadhina أَذِنَ meaning “to listen’. The beauty of the call lies in its melody reverberating from the mosque minarets in the still of night or the chaos of the day. I’m captivated by it. Why not practice being quiet five times a day and be grateful for life? https://www.middleeasteye.net/discover/adhan-muslim-call-prayer-melodies-maqams

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Chefchaouen, Morocco

To truly explore, allow three weeks for a deep immersion, less time would focus on several cities and a sojourn in the Atlas Mountains. A thumbnail look at a longer Journey, follow me in autumn when I return to this charmed country of colorful souks, the melodious call to prayer and a visit to the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, where women are allowed to visit. Although it is only the 7th largest mosque in the world, Hassan II claims the title of having the largest minaret in the world. Capped with a spotlight that shines east towards Mecca, the minaret is 700-feet tall, towering above the Atlantic Ocean. 

Southern Morocco is a land of tales and legends. Khamilia home of ancient Gnawa tribe where you can stay and sing with these magicians by the fireplace, the road of the ancient Kasbahs, the Drâa Valley, Tamegrouote and its ancient library counting books from the 14th century brought by pilgrims, the dry lake of Iriki.

Tangier, Morocco

Moroccan cuisine has gained massive followers among food connoisseurs. Staples of most meals include lamb, fish, and fowl, including pigeon, which is considered a delicacy when baked in pastry, the b’stillah is a national favorite. Vegetables including tomatoes, eggplants and onions are typically served with the well known and loved couscous. Bread, or Khob, as in many Middle Eastern and North African countries is considered a deep cultural symbol as well as a daily staple. Crusty, round flattish loaves are often baked on a girdle over an open flame or earthen ovens.  Mint tea is served everywhere in dainty tulip glasses.

An ancient Moroccan proverb: “manage with bread and butter until God sends honey”.

Moroccan woman making Bread or Khob,

Home to Morocco’s primary international airport, Casablanca is the main gateway into the country for many visitors and often their first taste of the country. This city is an industry and business powerhouse and compared to the exotic charms of Marrakesh and Fez, it can’t compete. There is a European touch to much of its architecture, and the city has a modern swagger that is unseen in other parts of the country.

Although Casablanca’s tourist sights and attractions may not be as obvious as those elsewhere, you will find some gems if you dig a little deeper. The medina quarter is a charming area and much smaller and easier to navigate than those elsewhere. And the colossal Hassan II Mosque is top of the list on most sightseeing checklists. For film buffs, there is nothing more synonymous with this city than the 1942 cinematic classic Casablanca. Apart from Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, the movie’s real star was Rick’s Café, where much of the action took place.

TGV to Tangier and Chefchaouen. Tangier has long been romanticized by artists, writers, and esoteric Beat poets, who arrived at its lively shores chasing escapades. On the Northern tip of Morocco, Tangier, an ancient white walled seaside city is the crossroads to Europe.  In the 1920’s to the 1950’s it was long known as a haven to bohemian artists and an avant-garde literary community. Known for its brightly tiled interiors and in particular, a rambling estate garden of legendary Italian horticulturist and writer Umberto Pasti and his celebrated garden Rohuna. Like Matisse and Delacroix before you, wander through streets lined with whitewashed houses and allow yourself to be transported by the dreamy atmosphere of the city. With wide boulevards, a medina revealing Moorish craftsmanship, and European colonial influences, Tangier retains an enduring eccentricity, and an undeniable charm.

Two hours southeast of Tangier, is Chefchaouen, the Blue City, the Blue Pearl of Morocco, an otherworldly escape sits high up in Morocco’s Rif Mountains. Surrounded by striking green valleys which are a vibrant contrast to the beautiful blue and white houses and mosques. There are endless opportunities for scenic hikes and walks in the Rif Mountains that surround Chefchaouen. Artisan shops offer traditional hand-made goods including handwoven rugs, Moroccan lamps, Berber textiles and ironwork, jewelry, caftans, and woven baskets.

Further south lies Fez, Morocco’s spiritual and cultural capital. Fez vies with Marrakesh for the title of Morocco’s most exotic city. This is the country’s spiritual capital, and despite the encroachment of modernity, it has maintained its authentic appeal down through the ages, holding onto its stately bearing as an Imperial City. Its minaret and dome-punctured skyline and timeless, crumbling Islamic architecture are top things to see for travelers.

Only one suggestion of the multiple exclusive torus we can offer here. Architecture and Islamic garden Tours Lose yourself in the gardens of ancient palaces and exotic Riads perfumed with orange blossoms, citrus, blood red roses and the sweetest jasmine. The tour combines an overview of the fascinating and beautiful world of Moroccan Architecture which showcases all the main ornamentation and decorative techniques from floral motifs, geometry, ceramics to calligraphy, symbolic of the rich cultural heritage of the vast Islamic empire and uncovers the mysteries of the Islamic concept of Chahar-bagh, the four-fold garden and leads us to discover earthly paradise revisited.

Overnight at Riad Fes Restored to its original glory, this Relais & Châteaux property is in the Medina, in the heart of the ancient city of Fez. Riad Fès is renowned for its luxury, impeccable service, and fine restaurant, it has been restored to its original glory in the heart of the ancient city, a serene atmosphere with decor reminiscent of Arabian Nights. 

Sahara Desert. Overnight Desert Luxury Camp

Skoura. Surprisingly lush and abrupt as it springs from the tawny landscape, Skoura deserves a lingering look for its kasbahs and its rich concentration of date palm, olive, fig, and almond trees. Pathways tunnel through the vegetation from one kasbah to another within this fertile island—a true oasis, perhaps the most intensely verdant in Morocco. Skoura is such a magical place, that if you’re on a grand tour of the Great Oasis Valleys, think about basing yourself here.

Stay Dar Ahlam. On the fringes of the Moroccan desert, shaded by the palms, lies Dar Ahlam. Terracotta colored stone meets cerulean skies as this traditional Kasbah cuts an imposing shape across the landscape. Experience a land of adventure from this Kasbah near Ouarzazate, gateway to the Moroccan desert. Unwind in a haven of manicured lawns and fragrant almond blossom. Or step out into the wilderness of the desert for a night under the stars, where you will soak up the elegant beauty in the privacy of your own luxury tent. Secluded by palm groves and almond trees at the edge of the Moroccan desert, this two-hundred-year-old rammed earth Kasbah the color of Champagne is an original maison des rêves. Gracefully made over with all modern comforts and the necessary technology, this singular fourteen room hideaway overlooks the Atlas Mountains, with a palm shaded swimming pool, hammam and candle-lit massage room. Dar Ahlam is not so much a hotel as a team of over 100 people dedicated entirely to you. Meals are customized and served to you among a selection of distinct, private settings like their flourishing gardens by Louis Benech, the gifted designer of the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris and the Bosquet du Théâtre d’Eau at Versailles.

Trek into the Valley of Roses, explore among the corn stalks and pomegranate trees of a nearby palmeraie and drive to the hilltop vestiges of a 12th century Berber village for a traditional tea ceremony at dusk.

Off to the High Atlas Mountains at indulgent and magical Kasbah Tamadot, where days are spent hiking to nearby villages, doing sunrise yoga, and immersing oneself in the unique Berber culture. Situated in the spectacular Atlas Mountains in Morocco, the award-winning Kasbah Tamadot is owned by Sir Richard Branson. This 28-bedroom hotel is perched at the top of a valley with views up to Mount Toubkal and over to some of the traditional Berber villages that dot around the region. Postcards soon from my Berber tent, the private deck is equipped with loungers to soak up the views and where I will enjoy outdoor dining under an ebony sky bursting with a thousand stars.  My Berber Tent Suite is awaiting my arrival!

In the Berber language, Kasbah Tamadot means ‘soft breeze’. It’s easy to imagine you’re a million miles away from it all in the gorgeous surroundings of Kasbah Tamadot. Located in Asni, a little village and marketplace in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, an area inhabited by the friendly Berbers,

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Berber Village in the Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Depart the magical Kasbah for a short ride through the mountains to Marrakech. The maze of souks must be explored in the covered bazar, I wouldn’t navigate without a guide, pedestrian movement can be interrupted by beasts of burden, mostly donkeys; the scent tells you of the wares. Every type of similar object sits side by side, the leather merchants rest on mounds of bags, prices aren’t marked, it’s a plucky game of negotiation. The Spice Traders Square is the epicenter of the medina, the fabric covered market tables groan under the weight of conical towers of pungent spices. Mysterious herbalist concoctions, baskets brimming with rose petals, this is the best place to purchase the well-known ras el hanout, the famous Moroccan spice blend. Argan oil is best found in a pharmacy as it is a staple product.  Open air vendors will tempt you with their colorful wares and snake charmers do exist on the famed Jamaa el Fna Square, in the Marrakech medina quarter.

Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle is a must visit, designed in 1920 by famed French painter Jacques Majorelle. Historic museums, surfing on the coast and trekking in the great Atlas Mountains are only a few of the striking and authentic offerings. Private visits can be arranged to the Yves Saint Laurent home, Villa Oasis, followed by a privately guided tour to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, where guests are taken into two worlds dear to Yves Saint Laurent’s heart: fashion and Morocco. This awe-inspiring museum exhibits a significant part of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent’s collection, and is a legacy to Marrakech, a city that held such a crucial place in Yves Saint Laurent’s life. The Museum of African Contemporary Art is the first museum dedicated to African Art in Morocco, giving a voice to young, emerging, and established artists, to be proud of their roots in their continent.

Many exclusive tour options but two I am interested in doing besides roaming the souks and private gardens. Calligraphy means “beautiful writing” and Arabic calligraphy (or more properly, Islamic calligraphy) is considered a high art form in the Arab world and is increasingly gaining recognition and appreciation worldwide. Evening Cocktails with Private Storytelling The Moroccan tradition of Hikayat, or storytelling dates back almost 1, 000 years. Some stories were recorded and other stories are passed orally. Hikayat was used as a way to pass on cultural beliefs, such as moral lessons to children and to entertain people on long winter nights. This form of entertainment was found in cities throughout Morocco but today Marrakech’s Jemaa El Fna square is the only city that’s keeping this tradition alive. Reserve one evening to enjoy a private session of this dying art in the comfort and peace of your hotel with the master Storyteller Ahmed Ezzarghani in both Arabic and English before dinner.

Moroccan Tradition of Storytelling Revives in Marrakech

In Marrakech as in other larger metropolitan cities, there are two choices for hotels, authentic chic riads within the walls of the ancient medina for a truly cultural mix or at larger hotels outside the medina. Or stay in both, enjoy the medina culture in the old walled city, where you can walk everywhere amid the fascinating maze of streets or escape the constant activity and slumber outside the walls in luxurious five star hotels. Something for every taste.

Activities have been carefully designed to provide our clients with some of the best experiences that are available in Morocco. We can tailor the activities to your needs, creating full day programs and include meals, fun elements or romantic touches to make your stay in this exotic country truly magical and memory making! An awe-inspiring country with a solid sense of culture.

“As a young child I wanted to be a writer because writers were rich and famous. They lounged around Singapore and Rangoon smoking opium in a yellow pongee silk suit. They sniffed cocaine in Mayfair and they penetrated forbidden swamps with a faithful native boy and lived in the native quarter of Tangier smoking hashish and languidly caressing a pet gazelle.”

— William S. Burroughs

Not Your Ordinary Wine Tasting! Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery, Exceptional!

Secluded and exclusive Alexander Valley, off the beaten path, excitedly on my way to an afternoon at a private vineyard. Who hasn’t done vino tastings in the wine country? But who has visited an ancient estate set on terraced hillsides amid deep-rooted olive trees, not as ancient as the Puglia old as Jesus olive trees, but nonetheless impressive!

Blue Rock Vineyard & Winery offers private tastings in a hidden Alexander Valley landscape, lush and very European in style. Gorgeous gardens teeming with energetic hummingbirds captivated by fragrant banks of lavender, two adorable vineyard dogs, Oreo and Finnigan, and a beautifully reconstructed stone house first built in 1880, the original site of Villa Maria Winery.

A most elegant and delicious welcome, wine in hand the moment we alight! Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery

There’s wine tasting and then there is wine hospitality, this Thursday jaunt is a delightful combination of both. As you probably know, private experience vineyards are booming and it’s not just a response to the pandemic.  Believe me there are still people who load up a limo and traverse the wine trail, sip and taste and move on to another soulless wine tasting experience. Visit downtown Healdsburg, or zip down the coast to Los Olivos, packed with carousers with a check list of buzzy destinations. Not quite my scene, nor our clients!

Like our travel itineraries, we prefer authentic experiences, not drink and dash. Those who prefer sight-lines of rows and rows of grapes, the terroir as they say, would love an afternoon lunch and tasting experience at Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery. A gaggle of girlfriends joined me, we left Hotel Healdsburg with a driver, 15 minutes from town, turning off the main road in a valley of pale golden hillsides stacked with hay bales toward a long sandy driveway to the vineyard. The restored winery and flowering gardens provide an idyllic background for a refined visit.  Welcomed by two friendly pups and the affable owner, Kenny Khan, who was flanked by staff offering glasses of chilled wine! Barely out of the car, a pleasant warm greeting and instant tasting, enchanting from the get-go! Our clients know I am a nut case on the arrival – set the stage for the perfect visit!

Hospitality is high on the list at Blue Rock.

Kenny led us through the picturesque gardens toward the stone cottage, stopping under a towering shady stone pine, his conversation flowed, sharing his love of wine making and how he came from a humble background in Tennessee to a glorious estate vineyard. He’s friendly and fun, sharing experiences. We toured the stone Vintner’s Cottage which is sometimes available for overnight stays. Restored with antiques, a full gourmet kitchen, an outdoor fireplace and a 130-year-old bocce court and heated pool, it’s a delightful spot for the initial tasting with Kenny and Managing Director, Carla Jeffries. Both Kenny and Carla are relaxed engaging hosts, their passion for wine and this unique estate is evident in their conversation. The refreshing plunge is for weekend guests. Relax on a shaded terrace or lounge in the tranquil sitting room of the naturally cool stone house, dogs on laps, we enjoyed tasting a few different varietals.

Dating back to 1880, the 100-acre Blue Rock Vineyard & Winery estate tells the story of how European winemaking came to Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Italian immigrants brought with them olive trees, vine cuttings, and knowledge of grape growing. The region’s undulating golden hills and idyllic vistas even look reminiscent of Tuscany itself. Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery was first settled by Italians who worked at the Italian-Swiss Colony winery just down the road. The original stone house was once Villa Maria winery, which closed its doors during the Prohibition Era. Acquired by Kenny and Cheryl Kahn in 1987, the Estate maintains much of its old-world character. It even maintains its original olive trees that are now over 140 years old.

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Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery

Adding onto the property, Cheryl and Kenny imported additional olive tree cuttings from Luca, Italy where some of the world’s best oil is produced. You’ll also discover organic vegetable gardens and surrounding hillsides that offer incredible vistas. The hills are also inhabited by wild turkeys, feral pigs, and abundant wildlife. And now, they are making and selling Blue Rock olive oil, it’s delectable, with a pungent finish.

Traversing 46 acres, the hillside vineyard is planted to the five Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. In 1993, an additional three acres of Syrah were planted on an extreme hillside. The cool mornings and warm days that characterize the Alexander Valley allow Blue Rock’s Bordeaux varietals to develop clarity and finesse.

Handcrafted on site, each vintage maintains its unique personality and charm without the interference of excessive oak or other winemaking techniques found in mass quantity production.

We moseyed up the stone steps to a newer building which was equally charming as the stone cottage. Several unique rooms to enjoy a four-course lunch – oh, you don’t think we just sipped wine, we relished a scrumptious duck confit, a crunchy grain salad and fresh lettuces from the garden, still tasting distinctive wines and chatting about ‘experiences.’ Finishing with balsamic laced vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries! Wandering out, we made a quick visit to an elegant private Club room, where a few gentlemen were savoring a spirited afternoon private Reserve Wine Tasting. I’m certain they were headed outdoors for cigars afterwards, it looked like a convivial party!

Don’t take my word for it, do look at the wine press evaluations which average 93+ points for many of the varietals. Best Barrels is their limited production, flagship wine. True to the name, it just what it sounds like: Best Barrels is made only when the vintner finds something that is both unique and better than anything else. Best Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon is crafted from the oldest vines planted on the Blue Rock Estate in 1987. These chosen Cabernet barrels exhibited deep, rich flavors and aromas, and were loaded with special complexity from the beginning. It is a stunner. Summer whites – Baby Blue Blanc is a delicate combination of Bordeaux white grapes of Sauvignon Blanc. Adding a small, amount of Viognier gives Baby Blue Blanc an aromatic “pop”! This just says Summer Sipping! The Chardonnay was a group favorite and judging by the cases packed into our car, everyone said Yes, Please!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery distinctive experience is not your typical tasting. If you are looking to enjoy the unexpected and an experiential vineyard, we highly recommend reaching out to Blue Rock and make an appointment for a decadent afternoon, or let us know and we will personally introduce you!  We can organize car service from downtown Healdsburg and a room reservation or jet up to the nearby Santa Rosa airport for a leisurely afternoon amid the grapes. Do mention the Gaggle of Girls who departed with multiple cases of wine and olive oil!. We would have taken the adorable dogs as well!

Exclusive to our clients, if you are interested in visiting – several options. Private tour and tasting. Vintner’s Table for lunch: two or four course lunch with tastings. Vintner’s Table four course dinner with appetizers and tastings – late afternoon arrival. Mosey the grounds, linger and nosh on appetizers in the lavender garden and enjoy a chef prepared dinner. The property is also available for intimate celebrations!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery
The Gaggle of Girl’s, it’s how we roll!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery hits all the balanced notes: gracious hospitality, refined tasting environment at a leisurely pace, scrumptious dining and an excellent selection of complex flavorful wines. We will have to return for winter reds! This is what an elegant tasting experience looks like.

Highly Recommend!