VENICE – TOUR EAT SHOP SIP READ VIEW

It was eons ago when I last visited Venice, we have clients who enjoy an annual summer sojourn, requesting the same sumptuous suite at the same hotel. I could have easily spent five days to wander without purpose, it won’t take me eons again for my return.

When was your last Visit to Venice?

A sea arrival is etherial, local life unfolds as you make your way by wooden boat through the water lapped maze of canals to the lagoon and the Grand Canal.  The floating city is one of the most recognizable places in the world, I felt like I was seeing Venice for the first time again. There is truly something alluring about a city surrounded by water, marshes and small islands in the sea, unlike resort islands, the city is truly floating on ancient piles of wood. It’s magical, a lure most visitors won’t deny.

Venice is built on piles of oak or larch prized by ship builders for centuries and surrounded by white Istrian stone, but really, it’s dreamlike. The city’s iconic 400 bridges bind layers of history dating back more than 1500 years.

Spring visits might be wet, the rain didn’t dampen my spirits, the city is extremely walkable with endless sights and narrow mazes of walkways, bridges, breathtaking Palazzos, adorned with flower boxes. At every bend there is beauty, life on the winding canals is fascinating, small barges pass laden with cartons, Amazon delivery by sea, flatboats piled high with construction supplies or baskets of fresh food, boat deliveries are the norm.

Venice is a collection of 118 islands connected by over 400 bridges. The city also has almost 200 canals and about 125 piazzas. There are alleys that are not on the canals, but they tend to be narrow, a calle as in Spain is a street; a rio, Spanish for rivers is a canal, riva is a street that runs along a canal. As elsewhere in Italy, a campo is a small square, but sometimes a piscina. Venice has only one piazza, that of San Marco.

The Grand Canal is the city’s most important and largest waterway, on which the noble families loved to build their remarkable palazzi. It’s the principal waterway dividing the city in two. Step back in time to view the endless roster of imposing Palazzo’s. Some are Gothic in style, built in grey or red stone, beautifully etched in gold.

Touring, shopping and dining with expert recommendations from our exceptional fun guides. A few suggestions: St Mark’s Basilica and the 15th-century Doge’s Palace. Go behind the scenes, uncover the hidden chambers where the Doge administered the republic. Enormous lion figures, Byzantine domes, angels and enormous stone columns dot the skyline.

The main attraction on San Giorgio Maggiore, a small island next to Giudecca, is the 16th Century Bendectin church designed by Andrea Palladio, which has a bell tower with some of the best views in the city.

The translation of Teatro La Fenice, a landmark opera house, is “The Phoenix”— It is one of the most famous and renowned landmarks in the history of Italian Theatre and in the history of opera as a whole.  

Explore the narrow passageways early in the morning, stroll to the Rialto fruit and vegetable and fish market near the Rialto Bridge. Where local chefs and home chefs stock their kitchens with line caught fish and the freshest of vegetables.

The Ghetto of Venice is Europe’s first “ghetto,” the ancient Jewish quarter in the center of the city. Its origins and historical events have made it glamorous over time, with its tall buildings in warm and welcoming colors overlooking wide spaces, surrounded by canals. Its uniqueness is due to its five synagogues. Two of them are open to public and worth a visit. The Ghetto area still houses all the religious and administrative institutions of the Jewish Community of Venice.

No traveler coming to Venice should fail to visit this small but unique universe and trace its fascinating history. For almost three centuries, Jewish life animated the Ghetto, and Jews interacted with the city contributing with their prolific activities to the life and economy of the Serenissima.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection. This squat palazzo Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal in Venice was once the home of the eccentric gallerist and collector Peggy Guggenheim. The Collection is one of the most important museums of European and North American art of the twentieth century in Italy.

Don’t miss an opportunity to glide in a gondola, an only in Venice experience.

Take a day trip to Murano, Burano and end with a Michelin lunch, far away from the tourist hordes, at Venissa. With its notable brightly colorful houses, Burano is an island dependent on tourism. Age old traditions still exist, you shouldn’t miss lacemaking and linen at Emilia Burano or Martina Vidal. Nibble on the famous S shaped Venetian Butter Cookies, Burano’s essi at the small local bakery, Pasticceria Costantini. Murano is the island of hand-blown glass.

Save your appetite for lunch on the small nearby island of Mazzorbo. Situated in a small walled vineyard dating back to the Middle Ages – Venissa, a Michelin restaurant, is complete with a 14C belltower.  A magical setting which is perfect for a short stroll before settling down to dine on the fringe of the vines, the oldest Vineyard in Venice. Rich in history and beauty. Its main richness, the agriculture: on the island you can find hundreds of artichoke fields, as well as vineyards and fruit trees. Another important tradition of this island is the wine.

EAT

Harry’s Bar. Famous for several reasons. Firstly, it is considered the birthplace of the Bellini cocktail, a drink made with fresh white peach puree and Prosecco, which was created by the founder Giuseppe Cipriani, in 1948. Perched along a canal just off St. Mark’s Square, this legendary bar and restaurant channels the club-like atmosphere of Europe’s historic cafes. Reserve a table downstairs at the back for the best people watching. Beef carpaccio drizzled with a zingy, creamy sauce is the signature dish. Other classics include tagliatelle with fresh lobster and warm strawberries marinated in white port.

Afternoon views and lunch at Restaurant Terrazza Danieli
 Opulent, rooftop dining room in Hotel Danieli serving classic Venetian cuisine overlooking the city. The outdoor terrace is open between May and October, with its 180° views of the lagoon and islands that is its crowning glory.

Aman Arva Select few outside reservations are accepted, best to just stay and enjoy the over-the-top aspect of this stunning Palazzi. Arva is Aman’s tribute to Italy’s rich culinary heritage – an inventive and sustainable approach to cooking using the finest ingredients of the season. Its name is taken from the Latin term for ‘cultivated land’, a reflection of the kitchen’s philosophy of making the best of land and sea.

Da Ivo. Cozy canal side eatery decorated with brass pans, turning out classic Tuscan & Venetian dishes. Founded in 1976 by the Tuscan-born Ivo Natali, this restaurant made a name for itself by serving dishes that originated in both Venice and Tuscany. Serving traditional Venetian dishes such as spider crab or spaghetti with clams live in harmony with a good Fiorentina steak. The friendly atmosphere is a plus – one reason it is popular with actors and celebrities during the Venice Film Festival.

Antiche Carampane. Hidden in the little streets and charming squares between the famous Rialto fish market and Campo San Polo, one doesn’t arrive by chance. Frequented by locals and the lucky tourist who can find it amid the long narrow alleys.

Al Covo Authentic family hospitality for this renowned restaurant, tucked away behind Riva degli Schiavoni. Bread sticks and butter appear the moment you perch, the menu is read to you as if you are a regular. Al Covo entices connoisseurs from Venice and the world. Refined, updated Venetian classics in a charming, rustic-style restaurant, with outside tables. Anthony Bourdain dined here.

SHOP

Giuliana Longo Hats has been handcrafting and importing hats in this compact boutique for decades.

PiedàTerre, a pocket-sized boutique hidden behind a market stall near the Rialto bridge is the top place to buy furlane, the chic gondolier slippers that have become a sort of hallmark of low-key Italian style.

Gianni Basso Stampatore, an old-school stationery atelier, is one of the city’s most charming institutions. The shop makes everything—including custom correspondence cards, invitations, bookplates, and business cards—by hand on vintage letterpresses, then ships the designs all over the world.

Gondolier Uniform stripes stripes stripes! Emilio Ceccato brand with its historic shop at the basis of Rialto bridge, is the official dealer for the iconic uniforms of gondoliers. The gondoliers can choose between blue and red. In the earliest days of the Gondola, Gondoliers were mostly Moorish slaves.

Nardi Jewelry is synonymous with glamour and luxury and loved for its incomparable design aesthetic and finely crafted Venetian jewelry. Hand-crafted with precision and passion, it’s a testament to the artisanal mastery for which Nardi has been proudly renowned for almost a century.

DRINK

Aman Bar Overlooking the secret garden beside the Grand Canal, Aman Venice’s Bar serves drinks, tea, late-night snacks and light meals – including Aman’s take on classic Venetian cicchetti – from midday until midnight. A homage to Lord Byron, it’s a warm and inviting space. Explore the largest selection of gins in Venice or request a bespoke cocktail from the award-winning resident mixologist.

Harry’s Bar Bellini The Bellini is a perfect long drink for the summer. It’s part of the family of sparkling cocktails, made with fresh white peaches mixed with sparkling brut wine or Prosecco. A refined and delicious Italian cocktail, the structure and freshness of the sparkling wine blend perfectly with the flavor and aroma of the peaches.

WATCH

A Haunting In Venice

Don’t Look Now

The Merchant of Venice h

Death In Venice

The Talented Mr. Ripley

READ

The World of Venice By Jan Morris

Venice Observed

Italian Neighbors

What To Read and Watch By Smithsonian

Bellini Cocktail Recipe

As for the proportions, the ratio of ingredients is 1 to 2: there must be double the amount of sparkling wine compared to peach nectar. This is especially important if you have to prepare jugs of cocktails for summer parties.

​½ cup Prosecco

¼ cup fresh white peach purée

For the peach purée Peel 1 pound of white peaches and gradually place them in 1 cup of water with 1/8 cup lemon juice. Blend the mixture with 4 ice cubes and 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar to balance the sugar content of the fruit. Add 2 raspberries to get the typical color (if the peaches aren’t pink enough).

Complete the Bellini Pour the white peach purée into flutes and slowly add the Prosecco.
Stir gently using a bar spoon.

Highly Recommend a Return to Venice!

Not Your Ordinary Wine Tasting! Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery, Exceptional!

Secluded and exclusive Alexander Valley, off the beaten path, excitedly on my way to an afternoon at a private vineyard. Who hasn’t done vino tastings in the wine country? But who has visited an ancient estate set on terraced hillsides amid deep-rooted olive trees, not as ancient as the Puglia old as Jesus olive trees, but nonetheless impressive!

Blue Rock Vineyard & Winery offers private tastings in a hidden Alexander Valley landscape, lush and very European in style. Gorgeous gardens teeming with energetic hummingbirds captivated by fragrant banks of lavender, two adorable vineyard dogs, Oreo and Finnigan, and a beautifully reconstructed stone house first built in 1880, the original site of Villa Maria Winery.

A most elegant and delicious welcome, wine in hand the moment we alight! Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery

There’s wine tasting and then there is wine hospitality, this Thursday jaunt is a delightful combination of both. As you probably know, private experience vineyards are booming and it’s not just a response to the pandemic.  Believe me there are still people who load up a limo and traverse the wine trail, sip and taste and move on to another soulless wine tasting experience. Visit downtown Healdsburg, or zip down the coast to Los Olivos, packed with carousers with a check list of buzzy destinations. Not quite my scene, nor our clients!

Like our travel itineraries, we prefer authentic experiences, not drink and dash. Those who prefer sight-lines of rows and rows of grapes, the terroir as they say, would love an afternoon lunch and tasting experience at Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery. A gaggle of girlfriends joined me, we left Hotel Healdsburg with a driver, 15 minutes from town, turning off the main road in a valley of pale golden hillsides stacked with hay bales toward a long sandy driveway to the vineyard. The restored winery and flowering gardens provide an idyllic background for a refined visit.  Welcomed by two friendly pups and the affable owner, Kenny Khan, who was flanked by staff offering glasses of chilled wine! Barely out of the car, a pleasant warm greeting and instant tasting, enchanting from the get-go! Our clients know I am a nut case on the arrival – set the stage for the perfect visit!

Hospitality is high on the list at Blue Rock.

Kenny led us through the picturesque gardens toward the stone cottage, stopping under a towering shady stone pine, his conversation flowed, sharing his love of wine making and how he came from a humble background in Tennessee to a glorious estate vineyard. He’s friendly and fun, sharing experiences. We toured the stone Vintner’s Cottage which is sometimes available for overnight stays. Restored with antiques, a full gourmet kitchen, an outdoor fireplace and a 130-year-old bocce court and heated pool, it’s a delightful spot for the initial tasting with Kenny and Managing Director, Carla Jeffries. Both Kenny and Carla are relaxed engaging hosts, their passion for wine and this unique estate is evident in their conversation. The refreshing plunge is for weekend guests. Relax on a shaded terrace or lounge in the tranquil sitting room of the naturally cool stone house, dogs on laps, we enjoyed tasting a few different varietals.

Dating back to 1880, the 100-acre Blue Rock Vineyard & Winery estate tells the story of how European winemaking came to Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Italian immigrants brought with them olive trees, vine cuttings, and knowledge of grape growing. The region’s undulating golden hills and idyllic vistas even look reminiscent of Tuscany itself. Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery was first settled by Italians who worked at the Italian-Swiss Colony winery just down the road. The original stone house was once Villa Maria winery, which closed its doors during the Prohibition Era. Acquired by Kenny and Cheryl Kahn in 1987, the Estate maintains much of its old-world character. It even maintains its original olive trees that are now over 140 years old.

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Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery

Adding onto the property, Cheryl and Kenny imported additional olive tree cuttings from Luca, Italy where some of the world’s best oil is produced. You’ll also discover organic vegetable gardens and surrounding hillsides that offer incredible vistas. The hills are also inhabited by wild turkeys, feral pigs, and abundant wildlife. And now, they are making and selling Blue Rock olive oil, it’s delectable, with a pungent finish.

Traversing 46 acres, the hillside vineyard is planted to the five Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. In 1993, an additional three acres of Syrah were planted on an extreme hillside. The cool mornings and warm days that characterize the Alexander Valley allow Blue Rock’s Bordeaux varietals to develop clarity and finesse.

Handcrafted on site, each vintage maintains its unique personality and charm without the interference of excessive oak or other winemaking techniques found in mass quantity production.

We moseyed up the stone steps to a newer building which was equally charming as the stone cottage. Several unique rooms to enjoy a four-course lunch – oh, you don’t think we just sipped wine, we relished a scrumptious duck confit, a crunchy grain salad and fresh lettuces from the garden, still tasting distinctive wines and chatting about ‘experiences.’ Finishing with balsamic laced vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries! Wandering out, we made a quick visit to an elegant private Club room, where a few gentlemen were savoring a spirited afternoon private Reserve Wine Tasting. I’m certain they were headed outdoors for cigars afterwards, it looked like a convivial party!

Don’t take my word for it, do look at the wine press evaluations which average 93+ points for many of the varietals. Best Barrels is their limited production, flagship wine. True to the name, it just what it sounds like: Best Barrels is made only when the vintner finds something that is both unique and better than anything else. Best Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon is crafted from the oldest vines planted on the Blue Rock Estate in 1987. These chosen Cabernet barrels exhibited deep, rich flavors and aromas, and were loaded with special complexity from the beginning. It is a stunner. Summer whites – Baby Blue Blanc is a delicate combination of Bordeaux white grapes of Sauvignon Blanc. Adding a small, amount of Viognier gives Baby Blue Blanc an aromatic “pop”! This just says Summer Sipping! The Chardonnay was a group favorite and judging by the cases packed into our car, everyone said Yes, Please!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery distinctive experience is not your typical tasting. If you are looking to enjoy the unexpected and an experiential vineyard, we highly recommend reaching out to Blue Rock and make an appointment for a decadent afternoon, or let us know and we will personally introduce you!  We can organize car service from downtown Healdsburg and a room reservation or jet up to the nearby Santa Rosa airport for a leisurely afternoon amid the grapes. Do mention the Gaggle of Girls who departed with multiple cases of wine and olive oil!. We would have taken the adorable dogs as well!

Exclusive to our clients, if you are interested in visiting – several options. Private tour and tasting. Vintner’s Table for lunch: two or four course lunch with tastings. Vintner’s Table four course dinner with appetizers and tastings – late afternoon arrival. Mosey the grounds, linger and nosh on appetizers in the lavender garden and enjoy a chef prepared dinner. The property is also available for intimate celebrations!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery
The Gaggle of Girl’s, it’s how we roll!

Blue Rock Vineyard and Winery hits all the balanced notes: gracious hospitality, refined tasting environment at a leisurely pace, scrumptious dining and an excellent selection of complex flavorful wines. We will have to return for winter reds! This is what an elegant tasting experience looks like.

Highly Recommend!