Luxury Hotels Rwanda

Gorilla Trekking is not a last minute Journey. A gorilla permit must be reserved and purchased months in advance. There are only about 600 mountain gorillas in existence today, and the Rwanda Park service only issues 10 permits per gorilla family per day.

There are ten groups/families of habituated gorillas in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. A gorilla trek varies from day to day, you may trek for an easy hour or two through the bamboo canopied rain forest to meet your troop or you may hike 6 to 8 arduous hours; trailing machete yielding guides hacking their way though the dense rain forest straight up an 8500 foot peak. And on occasion, trekking in drizzly or pouring rain resulting in muddy slick trails.

We hiked the trifecta trek – clear robin egg blue skies, a cool misty day and a mud trek – all conditions worth every step to share an hour with the protected giants. Treks are limited to a maximum of eight guests and a strict hour of observing is enforced. The gorilla trackers have alerted your guides and porters of the gorilla location and hopefully the gorillas are happy in their setting, otherwise you continue until they have been sighted again – an awesome adventure.

Whacking through the brush, the next gap reveals black woolly masses under the green canopy – gorillas scampering and swinging from thin bamboo poles. Initially, it is frightening, although you have anticipated seeing them, a massive silverback 10 feet away is a sight that produces a gasp and an initial bolt of fear. As the giant gorilla sauntered toward me, our guide commanded: Don’t Run – she, a mind reader! A knuckle walk pass by brushed my knees and the powerful Silverback secured another lush bamboo snack. Exhilarating, captivating and mesmerizing – after a short while, your initial fear subsides.

Don’t mind me, just passing by!

Toddler gorillas roll and romp, thump their chests in play, nuzzle a mom and pick at the matted hair of a Silverback, who ignores them, he was more interested in picking at his massive padded palms, hands and feet which so resemble ours.

Watching the gorilla families eat, play and preen is an absolutely majestic experience. Nothing compares with a gaze from one of these imperial creatures; an enormous Silverback casually strips and chews on a stalk of bamboo while watching you intently. Powerful and so closely human, sharing 98% of our DNA, they were very comfortable with us in their home habitat.

We trekked for three days, and each family we visited was very different in personality. A rainy day yielded the largest Silverback in the community – his enormous outstretched arms resembled tree trunks – Godzilla was small in comparison.

The last 15 minutes of our final trek was spent viewing a mom, her toddler son and a 2-day-old infant. Baby cuddled in her arms and nursing, the toddler sibling gazed intently at this very human looking baby.

Best place to stay is Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – luxurious in a gorgeous garden setting, and very close to the park headquarters. Tucked high into the foothills of the Virunga Mountain range, the only five-star lodge in the remote area features individual cottages with patios and fireplaces. Wake each morning when your butler delivers coffee, rolls and cookies and helps you adjust your trekking gear.

Arrive back to the lodge for lunch where your guards help you up the steep jungle lined path to the lodge and the manager warmly greets you. Trays of chilled lemonade are passed; while you rest near the warming fire, your butler is there to quickly remove your mud caked boots and provides a foot massage! We lucked out meeting the visiting General Manager from the sister property, Governors Camp. Mike Kirungi seemed never to rest, always inquiring on our well being, opening the gift shop during his dinner – truly a congenial manager who understands the welcome!

Highly recommend!

I’ve always held high respect for safari guards; the Swahil term is Askari. In Rwanda, the Kinyarwanda word is Umuzamu. They patrol African lodge grounds, braving the random Cape buffalo or hippo, who in the cover of darkness, meander into camp to forage on grassy landscapes. Long ago at Governors Camp, two hippos brushed the edges of my tent and bellowed to each other in greeting; hippos have a chilling deep guttural roar and next to my tent in the dead of night, I was certain of imminent death. I called a dear friend to say goodbye. He was surprised to have his Chinese dinner interrupted by a near death call! Through the dark canvas, I saw the dim arc of the Askari flashlight arching above my tent – warning the hippos – head back to the pond. Saved by Askari!

My recent visit to Rwanda for gorilla trekking through the deep rain-forests introduced me to a marvelous group of Umuzamu at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge. http://www.governorscamp.com/property-descriptions/silverback-lodge-parc-national-des-volcans-rwanda

Umuzamu at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge

Not only do these local Rwandan guards protect you from stray wild animals, they provide addditional important responsibilities on property. Situated in the foothills of the Virungas Volcano chain, the lodge itself is perched at around 8000 feet; on arrival, guests make their way to the lodge in the dense vegetation. The walk is up a steep stone path, which when raining, is slippery – my Villa, was of course, at the highest location on the property; so from the lodge, I had a another stunningly beautiful treacherous climb home after dinner and a long day of trekking. Imagine rainy foggy climbs with our luggage balanced on the heads of the guards – traveling light has never been a description applied to me. Umuzamu trekking uphill with bags atop their heads in fog and mist, no complaints from me on the initial passage!

Each day Pascal and his cadre of guards were my heroes. My initial dawn trek in the dark for breakfast at the lodge; late afternoon return trek up to the lodge and my villa following an arduous 4-6 hour gorilla trek and again in the evening – keeping me upright in the dark on the damp and steep path to dinner and later back up to bed. I didn’t look forward to the last trek to my Villa in the dark after dinner.

Pascal keeping me safe!

Pascal and I found a comfortable conversation pattern; I was either sleepy on the dawn walk or beyond exhausted after the gorilla trek following dinner. Chatting about his life was a marvelous distraction up and down the slippery path – before I knew it we arrived at each location – honestly, some trekking days, I wasn’t certain I could climb to the lodge, let alone my Villa. Clinging to his arm kept me upright, rain pounding on his umbrella; Pascal was surefooted, calm and happy to share his story. In his spare time, he studies languages and after a work week, he bicycles two hours to his home to see his family. I learned much about local customs and his family life…layers, I always encourage chatting with locals and understanding their culture.

Pascal was also the ultimate fire builder – my Villa fire roared and crackled all night; fire and a toasty hot water bottle at the foot of my bed guaranteed a comfy warm sleep…until the crack of dawn 6 am coffee wake-up at my villa. Gorillas are waiting in the mist.