Out of Africa – Karen, Kenya A Safari, Chapter One

My first safari was over 25 years ago. One of my lasting memories is the vast wide-open blue skies and the infinite horizons. The seemingly edge of the earth thrusting itself up to graze the pale sky. The sky in Africa always seems bigger than anywhere else in the world, an endless horizon stretches forever. Occasionally peppered with billowing pristine white clouds, it’s like IMax scenery!

I’ve enjoyed numerous Journeys to Kenya, a last-minute invitation on a business Safari, known as a Fam, was impossible to resist! A Fam is industry vernacular for a Familiarization trip to explore hotels or lodges – with a small group of like-minded agency owners – usually an arduous schedule to enjoy ten days of adventure jam-packed into five days! Morocco was already on my schedule, change flights and I’m in Kenya.

My month in Morocco allowed a few days of down time before meeting the Fam group. Arriving in Nairobi at 3 am via Istanbul, I woke up in a familiar property, Hemingways in Karen, Kenya. The suites are enormous, terraces open to the expansive always green garden, a pond gurgles and swells with dragon flies, mynah birds speak their own language – coffee delivered to my sunny terrace – a marvelous way to wake up in Kenya!

Agenda: repack Morocco bags, safari gear into green canvas and leather satchels, swim and run a few errands with Sammy, my local driver. Sammy intent on reteaching me Swahili!

Who can complain about African November heat, follow the sun, avoid winter. Two days of Hemingways, move to Manzili House to meet the Fam, after a few days, FAM could have been altered to FAMILY.  I rarely go on Fams, if I want to visit a property, I go. One must play well with others for a week or so, and there is no escape! Turns out this group was beyond swell, hugs and tears upon departure!

Karen, Kenya properties are primarily reserved for pre and post safari. I’ve stayed at all the five-star options, Manzili House was new to me. Owned by a local family, Vanessa and George Roumeguere,  it’s a comfy luxury homestay – home away from home. Karen is a leafy quiet Nairobi suburb, Manzili House is on a family property, designed and built by the owners. My arrival with four 60-pound bags raised eyebrows – a month roaming Morocco was my only explanation! One of the guests arrived with a small duffel, the look…Uh oh – she didn’t get the safari bag memo.

Manzili House proved to be an enchanting choice for our group, as each traveler wandered in from international flights. A charming 4-bedroom home with individual suites and a separate 2-bedroom house with a full kitchen separated by a pool and garden, the ideal location for a small group. Acacia trees, flowering vines surround the garden property.

Perfect central base for exploring, it’s a stone’s throw from Nairobi National Park and the local must-see galleries, shops, Sheldricks Elephant Orphanage, and the Giraffe Center.

The main house is light and airy, beautifully decorated in distinctive Swahili architecture and impressive accessories- I felt at home! The owner’s son, Louie, plays host with the butler – who does anything and everything at a moment’s notice! Hospitality is in their genes.

I asked about the antiques and art – I mentioned we could be friends- I have a few of these pieces! Relaxing at the pool, a charming woman with tiny puppy greets me, I assume one of our Fam group. It’s Vanessa, the owner of Manzili House. Within minutes, we are fast friends! She’s French, married a French man whose French anthropologist mother married a Maasai, and he grew up with 100+ step brothers and sisters in Kenya. This is Karen, Kenya, after all. Google the legendary history of Karen…it’s quite interesting!

We chat and Vanessa exclaims, we must go visit my artist friend – let’s go, you will adore him! Puppy in tow, we traverse a few blocks through rural Karen – think Montecito or Beverly Hills landscaping, although you can’t see homes behind the massive shrubs and enormous trees and substantial gates. Some gates have local tribesmen as guards.

Indeed, we visit her friend, the artist Anthony Russell, in his over-the-top studio. Truly, it is more like a museum of antiquities merged with his enormous expressive art collages and photographs. Anthony, engaging and amusing, is a local legend, it turns out he owns a property formerly known as Shampoli, I stayed on one of my first Kenyan safaris. After an hour studio tour, he asked what are you doing in Karen?  I’m meeting a group of agency owners- he ponders and says – you are coming here tomorrow to meet me! Sneak peek with Vanessa! He also has a Masai Mara based Art Camp, no talent required, he is inspirational!

Vanessa and Louie and team host cocktails at the pool; bush babies leap from leafy limb to limb above. It’s Africa, after all! They are screechers, my first BB encounter was in a tree house lodge in Tanzania, I was terrified assuming they were the size of lions, preparing to invade my tree house and eat me.

Henry and their private chef serve a divine dinner, Vanessa, her husband George, and Louie are our hosts. Fire blazing in fireplace, dessert and after dinner drinks, we all linger despite some travelers having flown overnight.  Manzili House feels like home, with charming and engaging hosts.  

Manzili House Karen Kenya

We spent a delightful day visiting my favorite Karen haunts: bead shops, antiques, art, Giraffe feeding, and a scrumptious lunch at Cultiva!

Morning, we are Wheels Up from the private Wilson Airport. Our Fam is hosted by my dear friend and her teams: Scenic Air, Cottars Safari Camp and Ol Jogi Lodge.

The advantage of flying over Kenya with a private charter, is the joy of landing on an airstrip for an impromptu brekkie or lunch! Our amazing pilot, Kim, had a superb soundtrack for each route! Swooping low over volcanic landscapes, miles of untouched sand dunes, small village bomas, and of course, all the wildlife! It’s the only way to fly, Scenic Air lives up to its name!

Highly Recommend Manzili House!

Go To Chapter Two The Lodges.

Magnificent Mountain Gorillas

Gorilla Trekking is not a last minute Journey. A gorilla permit must be reserved and purchased months in advance. There are only about 600 mountain gorillas in existence today, and the Rwanda Park service only issues 10 permits per gorilla family per day.

There are ten groups/families of habituated gorillas in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. A gorilla trek varies from day to day, you may trek for an easy hour or two through the bamboo canopied rain forest to meet your troop or you may hike 6 to 8 arduous hours; trailing machete yielding guides hacking their way though the dense rain forest straight up an 8500 foot peak. And on occasion, trekking in drizzly or pouring rain resulting in muddy slick trails.

We hiked the trifecta trek – clear robin egg blue skies, a cool misty day and a mud trekall conditions worth every step to share an hour with the protected giants. Treks are limited to a maximum of eight guests and a strict hour of observing is enforced. The gorilla trackers have alerted your guides and porters of the gorilla location and hopefully the gorillas are happy in their setting, otherwise you continue until they have been sighted again – an awesome adventure.

Whacking through the brush, the next gap reveals black woolly masses under the green canopy – gorillas scampering and swinging from thin bamboo poles. Initially, it is frightening, although you have anticipated seeing them, a massive silverback 10 feet away is a sight that produces a gasp and an initial bolt of fear. As the giant gorilla sauntered toward me, our guide commanded: Don’t Run – she, a mind reader! A knuckle walk pass by brushed my knees and the powerful Silverback secured another lush bamboo snack. Exhilarating, captivating and mesmerizing – after a short while, your initial fear subsides.

Don't mind me, just passing by!

Don’t mind me, just passing by!

Toddler gorillas roll and romp, thump their chests in play, nuzzle a mom and pick at the matted hair of a Silverback, who ignores them, he was more interested in picking at his massive padded palms, hands and feet which so resemble ours.

Watching the gorilla families eat, play and preen is an absolutely majestic experience. Nothing compares with a gaze from one of these imperial creatures; an enormous Silverback casually strips and chews on a stalk of bamboo while watching you intently. Powerful and so closely human, sharing 98% of our DNA, they were very comfortable with us in their home habitat.

We trekked for three days, and each family we visited was very different in personality. A rainy day yielded the largest Silverback in the community – his enormous outstretched arms resembled tree trunks – Godzilla was small in comparison.

The last 15 minutes of our final trek was spent viewing a mom, her toddler son and a 2-day-old infant. Baby cuddled in her arms and nursing, the toddler sibling gazed intently at this very human looking baby.

Best place to stay is Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – luxurious in a gorgeous garden setting, and very close to the park headquarters. Tucked high into the foothills of the Virunga Mountain range, the only five-star lodge in the remote area features individual cottages with patios and fireplaces. Wake each morning when your butler delivers coffee, rolls and cookies and helps you adjust your trekking gear.

Arrive back to the lodge for lunch where your guards help you up the steep jungle lined path to the lodge and the manager warmly greets you. Trays of chilled lemonade are passed; while you rest near the warming fire, your butler is there to quickly remove your mud caked boots and provides a foot massage! We lucked out meeting the visiting General Manager from the sister property, Governors Camp. Mike Kirungi seemed never to rest, always inquiring on our well being, opening the gift shop during his dinner – truly a congenial manager who understands the welcome!

Highly recommend!