More Fever Dreams – VILLA FAYOUM Egypt

Egypt is still very busy despite the unrest in the Iran and surrounding areas. I am plotting a return visit over winter to see more of what I missed on my first Journey. My love of Morocco, which offers ancient architecture juxtaposed with modern life, iconic bustling souks, spices and traditional tea culture is mutual in Egypt. Both historically rich Northern Africa nations with vast Sahara Desert landscapes, similar vibrant Arab influenced culture and Muslim cultures. Warm hospitality is extended in both countries; I have always felt very safe traveling here.

You may have read my post on my upcoming visit to Al Moudira Hotel near Luxor. In reading and resourcing more of all that is Egypt, I’ve found another intriguing Oasis in Egypt! A sister hotel of Al Moudira in Fayoum.

A mere 2 hours from the chaos that is Cairo, discover a cool haven, peaceful and calm, the opposite of colorful Cairo. Fayoum is the largest oasis in Egypt and the closest to the Nile and to Cairo.  Lake Qarun was formed about 70,000 years ago when the Nile flooded the depression that now occupies the region of Fayoum. Today, the channels that connect it to the river feed the lake. Fayoum feels like an ancient village, another era. Walk through the open farmland, where you may meet farmers tending their land, water buffalos cooling in the irrigation channels, birds fly overhead calling and singing– the ancient rhythm hasn’t changed much over the centuries. Villagers travel by donkey carts, on horseback or in motorized tuk tuks. Tunis Village is an artistic and tranquil village in the Fayoum Oasis.

The oases have historically represented what was called “the garden of Egypt” and still today they produce a large quantity of fruit and vegetables, contributing to a particularly important percentage of the food needs of the whole of Egypt.

And where will I dream? In the charming Siwa Suite at Villa Fayoum! A magical villa in the heart of Fayoum, overlooking Qaroun Lake, where tranquility meets wonder!

VILLA FAYOUM sits in the midst of charming Tunis village just two hours South West of Cairo in Fayoum, nestled within a verdant 6000 sq meter garden. A historic 12-room villa surrounded by mature palms which shade a 16 meter golden granite and Sinai-marble pool cushioned amid abundant local flora.

There are views of the lake from the villa which, along with its adjacent houses, was sensitively restored using traditional materials and salvaged craftwork.  The villa’s interiors have also been imagined and designed by Al Moudira’s founder Zeina Aboukheir. They have the same rich and eclectic style Zeina is known for, featuring handpicked vintage textiles, art and antiques that come together effortlessly, layering different historic eras and creative global cultures.

And, as at their other property, Al Moudira, guests will eat well. The Moudira Farm Kitchen  Chef Gioconda Scott, has been brought to Villa Fayoum to craft menus and train local chefs.  Similar to Moudira’s style, ingredients will be provisioned locally. Born and raised in Andalucia, Gioconda first acquired her cooking skills assisting in the kitchen of Trasierra, her family home turned exclusive private hotel, and then studying in Italy. She worked with Argentine celebrity chef Francis Mallmann for over 4 years, running his Restaurant Garzon in Uruguay. If you haven’t dined at a Mallmann restaurant, another pilgrimage needs to be organized. Our good pals offer private experiences with the King of Fire! A true nature-to-table philosophy to life. The menus will shift with the seasons, expect delicious Middle East dishes that are simple, local, and full of character.

Tunis Village is famous for its pottery; you’ll find shop after shop with beautiful ceramics. This heritage craft began when the village was visited by a Swiss woman who lived here and began a small school to teach locals. You’ll find remnants of the potter Evelyne Porret who created an artistic hub in the 1980’s. The school led to a complete conversion to craft, and the village hosts more than twenty-five pottery workshops and showrooms, whose products are also sold in Cairo, London, and New York. Training generations of Egyptian artists, the town evolved into a contemporary pottery mecca, attracting many artists; walk through its narrow alleys decorated with abundant murals, the architecture mimics the small school that Evelyne Porret built. Whimsical glazed pottery can be found at galleries on the renamed Evelyne Street. Tucked away in Fayoum’s artistic heart, Skylark Art Gallery is a quiet gem for anyone who appreciates nature-inspired luxury. Other pottery shops with vibrant hand painted pottery and workshops line Evelyne Street near the village gate. Many famous writers, intellectuals, artists and architects visited and remained, thus was born the intellectual community that is now Tunis.

Tunis Village

Other local attractions: The Monastery of the Archangel Gabriel at Naqlun, located just 16 km southeast of Fayoum. Dating back to the 5th century, this peaceful desert retreat is still home to a small community of monks who follow centuries-old traditions. The monastery is known for its well-preserved frescoes, ancient wooden doors, and archaeological discoveries that have provided insight into early Christian life in Egypt. Visitors can explore the main church, admire its intricate carvings, and walk through the surrounding ruins of monastic cells.

Bird Watching. The lake is an important bird nesting area where thousands of migratory birds rest during their winter migration pattern, including large numbers of flamingos. Other birds that can easily be spotted in the area are kingfishers, egrets and larks, ducks, gulls, moorhens and many wintering waders at the western side of Lake Qarun. Little owls, kestrels and black winged kites are Fayoumi residents and easy to spot on palm trees or telegraph wires. Wintering Wanderers – My Love Language, like the birds…

Highly Recommend, Egypt!

Local Food – Flora Bar – New York

Local Food You really get to know a city by tasting Local Food.

New York- restaurants change by the minute in the Big Apple; luckily my 212 friends are unabashed foodies thus my visits result in nightly expeditions to the latest hottest Dining Temples. One of my long time colleagues and her daughter belong to this ‘Food Tribe’ and they, knowing my lack of geographic prowess, often attempt to meet me at the hottest restaurant near my hotel and they always make sure I am in a taxi back to whatever hotel I might be in that particular night…I had heard of Flora Bar and they agreed, hot and they hadn’t visited yet…

Flora Bar – New York

So I asked my friend, David Tanis if he knew the owners – why yes, would you like a reservation? Please! As I made my way toward the Met Breuer where Flora Bar is located, Jen called me and said the Maître D wants to know HOW you know David Tanis? Really, they made quite a fuss when she checked in under his name. I arrived and said, you may not believe this, but I am David Tanis – instant third degree – How do YOU know David Tanis?? You may sit at any table, what suits you best? Again, who knew David Tanis was King of New York, I do now.

Famous chefs all communicate in a secret society.

Flora Bar – New York

Flora Bar in the Met Breuer. Knowing that Ignacio Mattos was a Chez Panisse alum and had cooked with the famed Francis Mallmann in Argentina, is all I needed to know. Yum, as usual when we are presented with small plates, we over order, where is the Chef tonight to guide us? Five guests, 15 plates? Each sharable bite is presented as a circle or a perfect square. Executive chef Jake Nemmers dazzles and delights. A simple circle of lobster crudo with chopped shiso arrives with a dab of flavored mayonnaise. The scrumptious tuna tartare was topped with toasted flax seeds and crunchy fried shallots, what one would think of as an odd combination hits the mark perfectly. We loved the thin slices of steak lathered in dribbles of Béarnaise. Blue shrimp were equally as heavenly in a spicy cocktail sauce. The menu is similar to a tapas bar, small bites meant to be shared.

Flora Bar – New York

Flora Bar – New York

The museum space is as dramatic as the dining. Downstairs from the Met Breuer, floor to ceiling windows look out at the patio.Wait staff are attired in blue jackets that I have now seen worn by some of my hip designer friends. To me, they looked like blue mechanics jackets, but I am not overly hip.

History – Restaurateur Thomas Carter and chef Ignacio Mattos, the partners behind Estela and Café Altro Paradiso, opened Flora Bar and Flora Coffee at The Met Breuer in Fall 2016. Flora Bar takes inspiration from lively, approachable restaurants in New York and Europe and is open beyond museum hours. The menu emphasizes seafood and vegetables and strives to be tasty and playful. You can stop in for a full dinner, a small bite or a drink at the long bar—anything you want, really.

Carter, Mattos, and their Matter House team aim to create an atmosphere of accessibility and fun similar to what they’ve cultivated downtown. The partnership with the museum came about from The Met’s desire to bring the Estela team’s light and ethereal tone—and perhaps foremost its sensitivity to the setting and location of a space—to the iconic Breuer building.

Thomas Carter
Co-Owner and Director of Beverage and Service
Before Estela and Café Altro, Thomas was beverage director at the award-wining Blue Hill at Stone Barns for six years. He has also worked in wine service for Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, and as a cook at New York restaurants including Le Bernardin, Mercer Kitchen and Union Pacific. He holds degrees from Columbia College Chicago and the Culinary Institute of America. Thomas found Ig through a truffle guy.

Flora Bar – New York

Ignacio Mattos
Co-Owner and Chef
Ignacio was born in Uruguay and learned to cook in the kitchens of grilling master Francis Mallmann and Slow Food legend Alice Waters. At Estela, he has earned acclaim for bold, Mediterranean-inspired cooking. With Altro, Ignacio returns to Italian cuisine, which was his focus for several years as the chef of Il Buco. Ignacio was nominated for a James Beard Best Chef: New York award in 2014. In that same year, Bon Appétit declared that “you’ll see and taste his influence on American cooking for years to come.”

Highly Recommend- do go with a Foodie Tribe, so you can taste everything on the menu!