Six Degrees of Separation – Jnane Tamsna, Magic in Marrakech

Six degrees of separation is the idea that all people are six or fewer social connections away from each other. As a result, a chain of “friend of a friend” statements can be made to connect any two people in a maximum of six steps. It is also known as the six handshakes rule.

This is how I met Meryanne Loum-Martin and her husband Dr. Gary Martin the charming owners of Jnane Tamsna (Big Garden), in Marrakech. I love a story; I love connections and this meeting has blossomed into a full-blown novella!

Before I departed last November on my Moroccan 19 Day Camel Caravan, an old friend asked if I was visiting Jnane Tamsna, I wasn’t sure, my Journeys are greatly mapped out and sometimes don’t leave much time for impulsiveness in my schedule. A week in the chaos that is Marrakech had me begging for serene settings, gardens for late afternoon lunch. Amangena is always on the top of my list as is Royal Mansour and La Mamounia…when I remembered Jnane Tamsna, voila!

Arrive and meet the stunning proprietress, Meryanne, a striking natural beauty. Extending my enormous, gilded business card, I mention my bay area friends and I am quickly cloaked in a hug! Oh, you are friends with Jenny’s parents? My husband Gary was in their wedding in Berkeley!  Yes, I knew the background – I was now practically family!

Mosey through the beautiful wild gardens, and nosh at the edge of the pool on a sumptuous salad and yummy ice cream for dessert. Meryanne and Gary return to chat, she mentions she is leaving soon for Paris- Me too!  My son was planning to meet me for Thanksgiving and mounting Covid cases sent him home early. I mention I have reservations for the Alain Ducasse Pop up Dinner and the Louis Foundation exhibit – Meryanne checks calendar, and we have two dates in Paris next week! We add a delightful and delicious rainy-day lunch at Pavilion de la Reine as a guest of her friend, the owner, Jérôme Chevalier.

The story continues as I plot a month of working from Morocco before European spring travel. Three days stay at Jnane Tasmna and Meryanne consulting with one of my visiting clients. She has a design studio in the souk where one can purchase local décor, pieces which she has designed or had made by her legion of fine local craftsmen. She has an impeccable eye and amazing resources – and is frequently involved in community projects for local businesspeople.

I realized when I returned home, her book, Inside Marrakesh: Enchanting Homes and Gardens was in my library.

Jnane Tamsna blends Meryanne Loum-Martin’s splendid interior design and Gary Martin’s serene nine-acre garden. Integrating 5 houses, 5 pools and a tennis court, this unique boutique property offers 24 individual rooms, scattered about between five private villas with pools and gardens and can be reserved fully exclusive for private events. 

To describe this property as a hotel is not quite accurate, it is more like an extension of a gorgeous rambling family home. Multiple salons are connected by gardens and stunning sunny terraces. Cushy loungers, cozy corners for reading, napping or working. At six pm, an assistant wanders through the property, lighting hundreds of candles and all the fireplaces – it’s truly a magical transformation. Bubbly is served and all is well in the world at Jnane Tasmna!

Wander the paths of the botanical garden, enjoy a refreshing swim in one of the five swimming pools and savor a delicious lunch in the shade of the elegant date palms… all part of a refreshing and rejuvenating day at Jnane Tamsna. Ride a camel through the date palms, improve your back hand at tennis, cruise the medina in a sidecar …or simply lunch and lounge around the pool. My clients arrived in a horse drawn carriage for a romantic private dinner in one of the candle lit salons.

This is a very relaxed atmosphere, I could have moseyed about barefoot, but I didn’t! Located in the Palmeraie, the historic palm grove that borders Marrakech, town is not far, but the jumble of Marrakech is left behind in the quiet garden oasis. The entire property feels like a large secret garden.

The rooms vary in size and are impeccably decorated in an eclectic combination of colorful textiles, African art, all with Meryanne’s elegant boho chic sense of style. A delightful mix of Moroccan crafts with Middle Eastern furnishings and bright colorful walls, it’s beyond comfortable. Many rooms have fireplaces, most have deep soaking tubs and spacious bathrooms. It’s abundantly clear they share a deep passion and deep knowledge of Morocco and its culture.

All the 24 rooms are light and airy, and open out onto verandahs that overlook the gardens. Decorated with Meryanne’s impeccable and eclectic style, with an amazing collection of African textiles, reflecting the Martin’s wide-ranging travels and interests. Meryanne’s flawless style is present everywhere throughout the property.

Gary Martin, a respected ethnobotanist, tends the ever-changing garden, Meryanne, a French-Senegalese designer, is responsible for the interiors and the elegant meals and an abundance of ever-changing floral bouquets.

Gary, wanders through the property greeting guests, and has an impressive CV as a cultural anthropologist and ethnobotanist. A former University lecturer, he is the founder of the Global Diversity Foundation. The Foundation is a non-profit organization that supports local communities along with agricultural, biological, and cultural diversity. Gary oversees farm gardens off property which grow herbs and crops for local restaurants.

Dinners in the salon or on a private terrace make the most of sun-ripe vegetables and pungent herbs plucked directly from the organic gardens. Meals are never in one prescribed location, and the tables are beyond spectacular in settings and décor. It’s magic, truly! Every meal I’ve enjoyed has been fresh, creative, and delicious.

 Jnane Tamsna is an enchanting oasis just outside the city of Marrakech and is far from a typical hotel property in Marrakech. Creature comforts abound, casual chic style and effortless dining in stunning salon locations or amid the garden palms, poolside. Highly Recommend for short or long visit, I can envision moving in for a month or longer!

My Enduring Moroccan Fantasy, Frolics on the Beach!

My Morocco Fantasy is to deeply explore more and more of this fascinating country, region by region. My 19 Day Camel Caravan in November took me to the interior areas, the picturesque sand dunes of the Sahara with perfectly contoured ripples and undulating crests, the rugged Atlas Mountains, miles and miles of jagged peaks, and a mesmerizing stay in the oldest royal city, the ancient fortifications of Fez. 

My recent Camel Caravan Journey II, focused on the sand and the sea. La Sultana Oualidia is the petite sister hotel of the luxury La Sultana Riad in Marrakech, described as the Sea and the City properties. This hidden gem nestled on the Atlantic coast, between Safi and El Jadida, sits above a greenish lagoon, dotted with oyster beds. The tides provide the rhythm of life for guests and the delectable oysters in a landscape of hypnotic beauty. El Jadida is a cozy little fishing town, famous for its seafood and in particular, its yummy oysters. 

La Sultana Oualidia Infinity Pool

The first “royal beach” designated by King Mohamed V when he built a palace in the 1940’s, it was eventually abandoned but has now been rediscovered by ‘those in the know’. In fact, the beach area closer to Agadir has a prime big name luxury resort under construction. The Coast is calling in Morocco! Surfers flock here for awesome waves.

On Morocco’s western coast, this sleepy sister hotel to La Sultana Marrakech rests on a prime perch of wild coast, fringed by protected birdlife and surfing beaches, with miles of sandy beaches, perfect for beach walkers. The five-star resort includes two pools, beautiful rambling gardens, an extensive spa and a wonderful restaurant featuring fish – including live lobster & crab tanks – pluck your supper directly from a tank. 

La Sultana Oualidia is designed as a family home, with private terraces, unique collections by designers, beautiful objects unearthed in markets, and contemporary paintings, guests can opt for getting away from it all, or setting off to discover nature. 

Oysters arrived to Oualidia via an innovative Frenchman in the 1950’s; observing the rich environment of the tidal lagoon and an opportunity and aspiration were born! Portuguese oysters were first raised here, giving way later in the 1970’s to a Japanese variety which is principally the type of oysters cultivated today and valued throughout Morocco.

The Concierge team at La Sultana Oualidia work their magic suggesting a wide array of activities intended to keep you active or help you plan quiet sedate activities. I opted for leisurely on property activities at a slower pace! For those who prefer movement, we can organize yoga, surfing, fishing, picnics facing the ocean, birdwatching, horse-riding. Our Moroccan team can also plan off property excursions and a Camel Caravan seaside route, which is how I travel!

La Sultana Oualidia offers 12 stylish rooms and suites, with private terraces and Jacuzzis, a newish small cabin suite is perched like a mini-bird house in the trees, a dreamy infinity pool floats on the edge of the lagoon, a heated indoor pool, a small but well-equipped gym, an authentic Hammam and spa, several restaurants, and a delectable oyster-bar with views of the sandy lagoon. For a petite property, many offerings. This is the Montauk of Morocco!

Sheltered from the wind, thanks to the lagoon, the temperature is mild all year long. I would suggest off season as summer is buzzy and the size of the property is conducive to quieter months. My March visit was perfect – lovely beach weather, warm star-studded evenings, and very few guests!

La Sultana Oualidia Dreamy Evening View

The concierge organized a lavish private picnic on a secluded Atlantic beach. Crossing the lagoon in a fisherman’s rustic boat and visiting the oyster beds, I hopped out and hiked through a flower filled field to the top of a hill – to gaze down at a long sandy beach and the crashing Atlantic Ocean. A transformative change in scenery, two hotel staff provided a soccer ball, and a kite for play. The breeze rippled the canvas shelter, I sat watching kids explore tide pools. Sipping a glass of chilled Moroccan white wine, lost in thought and plotting more Moroccan Fantasies!

Fresh crab, little langoustines and just caught fish were barbecued by the staff, multiple courses of salad and couscous emerged from big straw baskets, an opulent beach banquet! A customary Moroccan nap under the undulating canvas concluded my enchanting picnic before crossing the lagoon at high tide! 

La Sultana Oualidia Lagoon

The striking main building of La Sultana Oualidia, is a stone casbah-like building with turrets protruding toward sky. Suites are traditional in style, featuring stained-glass windows decorated with Moroccan symbols. The property is studded with greenery, gardens merge with small pools, wooden bridges span Koi filled pools. Birdsong, bees, and sea birds compliment the gardens. 

Breakfast is served in a small pavilion, or as I do, brekkie delivered to bed! Highly recommend the homemade vanilla yoghurt and tender clouds of scrambled eggs. The green ‘restorative juice’ must have been sent by the Champagne Police! Wander below the terraces to a jetty which serves local oysters. Slurp a dish of briny oysters with a chilled flute of bubbly!

You come to Oualidia to relax! End a day as I did with a private Berber Tent dinner on the beach at sunset. Fire-pits illuminate the cozy space at the edge of the lagoon restaurant. A lobster trifecta feast sated me over my three nights – live lobster from the tank, barbecue lobster under the Berber tent and Lobster Paella on the sand.

Birdwatching is very popular in spring and autumn when migrating flocks travel from Europe to Africa. Exotic birds including graceful flamingos, white egrets and huge storks are just a few of the flying feathered creatures. 

La Sultana Oualidia is 2.5-hour drive from Marrakech and a 2.5-hour drive from Casablanca airport. The two-lane road from Marrakech is well paved and has many turnouts to break the drive, peer over the edge of the tall cliffs and observe massive waves rolling in from an infinite horizon. A windy day transforms one into a human kite or a wobbly windmill tilting in the breeze on the edge of the steep precipices. Mother Nature owns her world on these windy bluffs. Surfing and windsurfing aficionados revere these beach areas, not far from the secluded lagoon of La Sultana Oualidia. 

There is a weekly market on the weekends if you desire a souk stroll. Moroccans from the village and surrounding areas come for their shopping. Wander the stalls tasting gorgeous produce and home goods. 

Who can resist fluffy Flamingos, succulent lobster, an indoor plunge under a glass gazebo, an authentic Hammam, bountiful beach picnics, Berber Tent dinners under a jet black sky, and the wild untamed Atlantic beckoning along the coast?  Oh, did I mention the briny oysters!?

La Sultana, Oualidia a coastal Moroccan sanctuary, feed your fantasies.

Irresistible and I Highly Recommend!