Rocco Forte Villa Igiea: Experience Sicily’s Majestic Heritage.

Sicily’s history is long and complex, marked by its strategic location in the Mediterranean which made it a coveted prize for many empires. It was first colonized by Phoenicians and Greeks, then conquered by Rome, and later ruled by Vandals, Ostrogoths, the Byzantine Empire, and Arab caliphates. The Normans conquered the island in the 11th century, followed by Angevin, Aragonese, and Spanish rulers, and it was eventually incorporated into the unified Kingdom of Italy in 1860 following a revolt led by Giuseppe Garibaldi.  My attempts at staying at Rocco Forte Vila Igiea property has met with almost as much complexity!

If you’ve read The Leopard, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, you may remember the most famous quote “If we want things to stay as they are, things will have to change.” Over 2,500 years at the strategic crossroads of the western world have left Sicily with an unparalleled historical legacy.

Nowhere else have Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, Italians and even the British left such an indelible impression. Whether you are more attracted by Greek temples, Roman villas and aqueducts, Norman cathedrals or Baroque churches, Sicily offers a range of historical sites that are not easily matched.

On my last visit to Sicily, it was the Summer of HEAT – the hottest on record, heat & fires..the airport catching fire was the last straw, I decided to escape the simmering Island after my sea sojourn on the lovely SeaDream yacht and pivot to Rabat – a minimum 20 degrees cooler! My dreamy cruise in the Tyrrhenian seas, included stopping on the tiny Aeolian islands, buying fresh oregano in a tiny vegetable grocery in Lipari, enjoying the nightly volcanic fireworks of Stromboli.

Many years ago, at a cooking class with David Tanis in Sicily at Anna Tasca Lanza cooking school, my goal was to stay at the Rocco Forte Sicilian gem, Villa Igiea, in Palermo, however it was closed for refurbishing. I am hoping Third Time is the Charm.

Rocco Forte Igiea, Palermo. A fabled 19th Century Palazzo in Palermo. Discover history, majesty and serenity at Villa Igiea: a turn-of-the-century palazzo at the perimeter of vivid Palermo, the foot of Mount Pellegrino and the Gulf of Palermo.

A long-loved seaside-meets-city sanctuary for royalty, dignitaries and Hollywood luminaries, trace their paths through tiered villa gardens that sweep down to the port and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea; on excursions to Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and ancient sites, or yacht trips along its picturesque coast; and through Villa Igiea’s Italian restaurants, atmospheric bars and palatial Art Nouveau interior, revitalized as a Rocco Forte hotel. This grand, Liberty-style palazzo has enchanted high-profile guests since its commission by the Florio dynasty in the late 1800s. Trace their paths through tiered villa gardens that sweep down to the port and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea and explore Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and ancient sites. 

A great place to start any adventure on this magical island is the regional capital, Palermo. Here, a honey-colored maze of grand buildings recalls a golden age of lavish operas, decadent parties and grand 19th-century palazzos. The particularly magnificent example of Villa Igiea, built for the influential Florio dynasty. Their powerful sense of glamour endures in this beloved idyll, which has welcomed royalty and Hollywood luminaries including Sophia Loren and Queen Victoria. 

An easy day trip from Palermo is Mondello, which is separated from the capital by the soaring Monte Pellegrino hill. A fishing village turned summer hotspot, Mondello is home to a stretch of white sandy beach and plenty of buzzing bars and restaurants to fuel a day’s sightseeing and sunbathing. Over on the south coast, sites of historical intrigue abound. There’s the impressive Villa Romana del Casale, an elaborate Roman villa near the town of Piazza Armerina. There’s also the striking Valley of the Temples, considered among the most important vestiges of ancient classical culture in Sicily, as well as the dazzling Scala dei Turchi cliff

Known as the ‘Pearl of the Mediterranean’, Sicily has lured travelers since antiquity. Next summer, after the usual summer travelers depart, I will make an attempt to stay again!

NOTO HOTEL 2026

Postcards From Palermo

Epicurean Gem – Dining with David Tanis at Lulu Restaurant

My recent foray to Beverly Hills included a delightful, delicious lunch at Lulu at the Hammer Museum in Westwood. The museum exhibition was ho-hum, our leisurely déjeuner in the open-air courtyard was superb! A new exhibition based on Joan Didion opens October 11, scurry to LA for the perfect recipe of delectable dining and museum afternoon! I may have to make a return trip. Or ignore the museum altogether and just enjoy dining in a very special location.

Not far from downtown Beverly Hills, the newish Lulu’s is a collaboration between famed chef, New York Times writer and prolific cookbook author David Tanis and the Bay Area’s Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. David, who is well-known for his New York Times cooking column, worked at Chez Panisse, on and off for nearly 25 years. They are old chums, enjoying decades of friendship and a mutual love of cooking and sustainability. When approached by UCLA to open the restaurant, David was Alices’ only choice as a partner.

Lulu is committed to prioritizing sustainability through local, regenerative food and design. If you follow David on Instagram, his Farmers Market selections provide inspiration for the daily menu. Lulu’s mission focuses on procuring food directly from small, nearby farms practicing regenerative organic agriculture, which results in wholesome, delicious food grown using methods that combat the climate crisis. The Lulu website lists numerous small farms who supply chef and kitchen team with seasonal fruit and vegetables. And of course, there is a lovely wine and cocktail menu.

The restaurant is named after a wise Provencal cook, Lulu Peyraud, whose cooking and hospitality at Domaine Tempier in Bandol, France has always inspired David and Alice.

At lunch, Lulu offers a popular three-course $45 prix fixe menu as well as an à la carte selection of salads, soups, sandwiches, light lunch fare, coffee, tea, and desserts. For supper, Lulu offers an à la carte selection of small bites, appetizers, entrées, and desserts curated around the produce in season. Staying true to their ethos of “market cooking,” the menus change daily depending on what is the very best available from local farms.

The outdoor setting under a canopy of umbrellas and dangling paper lanterns is perfect. Massive raw salvaged wood planks are stacked with bowls of gorgeous fresh apples and persimmons, whatever is seasonal. Simple and clean, the message is abundantly clear in the design and decor. Dating the menu is symbolic of the narrative, it’s fresh from the market or farm.

The menu will change constantly. The a la carte menu may offer a combination of soups and salads and sandwiches; three-course prix fixe allows David to shape meals with a gastronomic narrative. Like all the recipes from David’s cookbooks, the dishes are designed to be straightforward and uncomplicated. One year, David personally signed his cookbooks as a gift to our clients.

Our meal choices were based on David’s recommendation and for me, trying an option from one of his cookbooks. I adored a starter of Jumbo Medjool Dates, his roasted rosemary almonds served with a jagged chunk of Parmesan cheese.. the perfect bite to peruse the menu. David transforms simple to glorious! My Chicken a la Milanese was scrumptious, as was a shared plate of farm ripened Caprese salad with black olive toast. We also shared a satisfying plate of Ricotta gnocchi with zucchini and squash blossoms. All yummy! Sticking with the seasonal menu for dessert, we scooped up every bite of the gooey Nectarine blackberry crumble.

Lulu serves lunch and supper Tuesday through Sunday – check website for hours and directions.

Highly Recommend Lulu and we can reserve the perfect Beverly Hills hotel, tell David you are dining – and perhaps you will enjoy a hello with Alice and a tour of the kitchen with David, as I did!

Thank you, dear David, for the special attention. Your follower and friend, Gwen

Hammer Museum upcoming Exhibit –  Joan Didion: What She Means