Rocco Forte Villa Igiea: Experience Sicily’s Majestic Heritage.

Sicily’s history is long and complex, marked by its strategic location in the Mediterranean which made it a coveted prize for many empires. It was first colonized by Phoenicians and Greeks, then conquered by Rome, and later ruled by Vandals, Ostrogoths, the Byzantine Empire, and Arab caliphates. The Normans conquered the island in the 11th century, followed by Angevin, Aragonese, and Spanish rulers, and it was eventually incorporated into the unified Kingdom of Italy in 1860 following a revolt led by Giuseppe Garibaldi.  My attempts at staying at Rocco Forte Vila Igiea property has met with almost as much complexity!

If you’ve read The Leopard, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, you may remember the most famous quote “If we want things to stay as they are, things will have to change.” Over 2,500 years at the strategic crossroads of the western world have left Sicily with an unparalleled historical legacy.

Nowhere else have Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, Italians and even the British left such an indelible impression. Whether you are more attracted by Greek temples, Roman villas and aqueducts, Norman cathedrals or Baroque churches, Sicily offers a range of historical sites that are not easily matched.

On my last visit to Sicily, it was the Summer of HEAT – the hottest on record, heat & fires..the airport catching fire was the last straw, I decided to escape the simmering Island after my sea sojourn on the lovely SeaDream yacht and pivot to Rabat – a minimum 20 degrees cooler! My dreamy cruise in the Tyrrhenian seas, included stopping on the tiny Aeolian islands, buying fresh oregano in a tiny vegetable grocery in Lipari, enjoying the nightly volcanic fireworks of Stromboli.

Many years ago, at a cooking class with David Tanis in Sicily at Anna Tasca Lanza cooking school, my goal was to stay at the Rocco Forte Sicilian gem, Villa Igiea, in Palermo, however it was closed for refurbishing. I am hoping Third Time is the Charm.

Rocco Forte Igiea, Palermo. A fabled 19th Century Palazzo in Palermo. Discover history, majesty and serenity at Villa Igiea: a turn-of-the-century palazzo at the perimeter of vivid Palermo, the foot of Mount Pellegrino and the Gulf of Palermo.

A long-loved seaside-meets-city sanctuary for royalty, dignitaries and Hollywood luminaries, trace their paths through tiered villa gardens that sweep down to the port and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea; on excursions to Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and ancient sites, or yacht trips along its picturesque coast; and through Villa Igiea’s Italian restaurants, atmospheric bars and palatial Art Nouveau interior, revitalized as a Rocco Forte hotel. This grand, Liberty-style palazzo has enchanted high-profile guests since its commission by the Florio dynasty in the late 1800s. Trace their paths through tiered villa gardens that sweep down to the port and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea and explore Palermo’s bustling markets, Baroque palaces and ancient sites. 

A great place to start any adventure on this magical island is the regional capital, Palermo. Here, a honey-colored maze of grand buildings recalls a golden age of lavish operas, decadent parties and grand 19th-century palazzos. The particularly magnificent example of Villa Igiea, built for the influential Florio dynasty. Their powerful sense of glamour endures in this beloved idyll, which has welcomed royalty and Hollywood luminaries including Sophia Loren and Queen Victoria. 

An easy day trip from Palermo is Mondello, which is separated from the capital by the soaring Monte Pellegrino hill. A fishing village turned summer hotspot, Mondello is home to a stretch of white sandy beach and plenty of buzzing bars and restaurants to fuel a day’s sightseeing and sunbathing. Over on the south coast, sites of historical intrigue abound. There’s the impressive Villa Romana del Casale, an elaborate Roman villa near the town of Piazza Armerina. There’s also the striking Valley of the Temples, considered among the most important vestiges of ancient classical culture in Sicily, as well as the dazzling Scala dei Turchi cliff

Known as the ‘Pearl of the Mediterranean’, Sicily has lured travelers since antiquity. Next summer, after the usual summer travelers depart, I will make an attempt to stay again!

NOTO HOTEL 2026

Postcards From Palermo

Oasis Tiout – Morocco. A Journey Through Time

I’d never explored an Oasis; I was intrigued by the expedition offered by our dear friends at Dar Hossoun in Taroudant. 

A short drive from the property, it’s always a scenic journey in Morocco, where you pass through small villages which come to life on Market Day, I adore seeing local people going about their lives. Donkey carts trotting on the edge of the highway, their rattan baskets brimming with just harvested vegetables. Young boys riding sidesaddle atop a mule, perhaps on his way home from school. Enormous hay trucks precariously leaning to one side…loading the huge hay trucks is an art form! The adobe houses, with their ornate wooden doors, are photo worthy. Every alley has a story to tell, children playing between earthen walls, offering a glimpse into the traditional Berber way of life.

Tiout Oasis is a perfect picturesque day-trip destination from either Taroudant or Agadir, offering visitors a serene atmosphere, breathtaking natural scenery, and an authentic glimpse into Amazigh (Berber) village life. Nestled at the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, it is easily accessible by car, there are always interesting sites en route to their field trips!

Begin at the top of the hill where an ancient Kasbah is perched, dating back to the Saadian period, (16th Century). The Tiout palm grove is a maze of greenery at the foot of the Kasbah.

Kasbah in Tiout

Far from the typical tourist tracks, the Oasis is a unique blend of plantings. I’ve seen a Palm Oasis from the road, not knowing that plants or buildings were scattered amid the palm trees. The palm groves stretch endlessly, a sea of green against the dry ochre earth.

As you begin the walk or if you prefer, hire a mule and trot through the oasis! Palm trees sway in the gentle breeze, casting cool shadows over the sandy paths and tidy rows of vegetables. A loud braying donkey hides in the orchards of pomegranate, oranges and olives. Birds swoop and pluck bugs out of the air. Wander at your own pace along the winding paths through the oasis. It was surprising to see a variety of plantations, from fig and olive trees to almond trees and plots of wheat and vegetables. Every turn offers a new surprise, all under the cover of towering palms.

Tiout Oasis

At the edge of the fields, you may hear the trickle of water before you discover the centuries old cement irrigation channels, the ‘seguias’, the traditional irrigation channels. The channels have manual locks, to divert the water to various fields. An abundant water source irrigates the oasis, where many irrigation canals crisscross the landscape, families monitor the flow and take turns shutting and diverting the flow of the canals.

The oasis is a testament to the ingenuity of the Berber people who carved out the intricate irrigation channels in the midst of a desert environment. The channels are a lifeline for the thousands of palm trees and the locals who live nearby.

What a pleasant surprise to discover a few small restaurants serving traditional lunch amid the palms. Florence, the lovely owner of Dar Hossoun, made us a lunch reservation; under the tranquil shade of a large tent, the walls and floors were covered in multicolored patterns and prints, comfy cushions and low tables set the stage for an amazing Moroccan banquet. Begin with washing your hands from a small pitcher and marvel at the endless array of delectable treats delivered from the tiny kitchen. The woman and her son who own the restaurant make everything fresh, including the bread she was patiently kneading.

We encountered a few artisans along the twisting paths; I’m always an easy sell for a local artist! Along a wide clearing, one enterprising woman was renting enormous handmade blankets to visitors to use while they picnic or snooze under the palms. She had beautiful bushels of fragrant spices and herbs – again, I am a good consumer, supporting the locals everywhere I travel!

At the end of the oasis path, we discovered the piscine!  The crystal-clear waters of the pool are surrounded by lush greenery, soak in the beauty of nature!

Captivating villages, a shady oasis, locals tending to crops, donkeys, still the beasts of burden; its stepping back in time—daily scenes that still define life in Tiout today; an authentic charming atmosphere.

Highly Recommend!