Category Archives: Travel Tales

Mirador Basin Ancient Mayan Civilization

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In conjunction with Global Heritage Fund and Dr. Richard Hansen we can organize a private visit to the Pre-classic Mayan city in the Mirador Basin. Dr. Hansen is a specialist on the early Maya and is the Director of the Mirador Basin Project in northern Guatemala.

Climb to the top of highest pyramid in the Americas; stoop and gingerly make your way through the inner chamber tunnel to view original orange pigment carvings and ancient mythic images of jaguars and sacred animals. Over 880,000 acres of tropical forests, archeological sites and wildlife habitat is under the stewardship of Global Heritage Fund.

This is a rare treat to hike through the deep tropical forest with Dr. Hansen, sleep in a very rustic tent and live as the Mayans once did in this very spiritual site. Howler monkeys, poisonous snakes, one of the last virgin rain forests, and raw Mayan pyramids, not seen by many – this is not a tourist spot open to the public.

An intricate Mayan built capital El Mirador, was constructed centuries before Christ. Much of it is still buried under a deep growth of jungle, however many of the landmark origins of the enormous complex of dwellings, water causeways and tall temples are still visible today. The Mayan community that numbered in the 100,000’s, inexplicably abandoned the city about 150 a.d., however much can be seen still today amid the dense jungle.

Including the semi intact La Danta, one of the worlds largest pyramids; enormous mottled white stucco sculptures of jaguars and macaws; a 21 foot high stone wall behind the temple that is 2,000-years-old, and a collection of ancient tools and urns.

This amazing visit can be combined with a visit to Antigua or Tikal. A delightful World Heritage Spanish colonial town, Antigua is a wonderful base for day travel. Religious holidays are celebrated here in amazing colorful pageantry.

Helicopter to coffee plantations for a picnic lunch, soar over the luxurious rain forests and tall volcanoes that ring Lake Atitlán. Sail fishing, off road exploration, amazing activities, river rafting…the list is long, including meeting with shamans.

Shop for native crafts in the colorful Mayan market at Chichicastenango, stay in exotic jungle retreats and explore the towering temples of Tikal with expert guides.

Global Heritage Fund, GHF is dedicated to ensuring that Mirador tourism is responsible and sustainable and that local communities benefit directly. GHF-sponsored conservation and training employs over 220 Guatemalans each year, providing meaningful employment and an alternative to logging, poaching, looting and other illegal activities.

Conservation Science 
Conservation efforts are aimed at stabilizing and preserving some of the most significant monuments within the archaeological site of El Mirador, with the complex of La Danta, the pyramid of El Tigre and the building known as Structure 34 (“Jaguar Paw Temple”) receiving particular attention with oversight and guidance provided by leaders in the field of conservation science.

This slice of Guatemala is very suitable for families with older children – the jungle experience is primitive, however if I managed to spend a night in a pup tent in this raw jungle, anyone can manage it – and how often can you explore a remote rain forest with the esteemed project director, Dr. Richard Hansen, at Mirador Basin?

Captivating Cuba

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Thanks to President Obama, who modified the restrictive Cuba travel policy, throngs of visitors are making their way to the island. The change is designed to encourage more contact between Americans and citizens of the Communist-ruled island, the Treasury Department  grants so-called “people-to-people” licenses, which greatly expand travel opportunities for Cuba-bound visitors. However, one still cannot just hop on a plane and visit as an independent traveler.

Boys on the street – a universal scene cool boys & even cooler cars.

Cuba is realistically set in a time warp – the cars are decades old; 1950’s big Buick’s, Oldsmobile’s and Chevy’s – replacement parts, of course are not available, but the drivers amazingly seem to have kept them running. Evident in a door handle workings: almost hidden, a bent nail and some wire; many of the cars are lacking the interior panels – safety is not relevant – style, reflecting a vintage culture is of importance, amazingly the streets are clogged with traffic of another era.

Crumbling buildings, once elegant and refined European dwellings look like they are on their last legs; majestic marble staircases lead to apartments and restaurants – mixed housing development is clearly acceptable. Walking up the three flights of a graceful wide marble stairway to a hip restaurant, one can easily peer into the bedrooms of the apartment dwellers. A scene out of the Honeymooners television hit.

The Malecón waterfront is beautiful and if commerce is allowed to return, it should be a stunning location for rebuilding these fallen treasures. Old Havana is filled with lovely churches, central parks and leafy tree lined squares, cafes brimming with lively musicians and European tourists.  Architecture evoked by Southern Spain, despite the crumbling, one can imagine another time, a time of an elegance and hope.

A trip to the Hemingway Museum is definitely best taken in a vintage convertible, the bumpy ride produces a big smile. Finca Vigia, which means lookout farm, was the name of Hemingway’s residence when he lived there. The Hemingway Museum provides a glimpse of the daily life of Ernest and his wife; the pleasant surroundings and original furnishings make this a must see for anyone interested in the life and works of Ernest Hemingway.

Hotel Saratoga Havana

National Museum of Fine Arts Havana – Museo Nacional De Bellas Artes. The Museum of Fine Arts in two impressive buildings, one dedicated to Cuban Arts and Universal Arts. Beautifully organized, view the work of master Cuban painters – including, Adigio. His work can also be seen in his small studio, paintings stacked three deep in his apartment. Despite the language barrier, he enthusiastically shared his latest work, since my visit he has passed away.

Havana is a very fascinating place to visit, and I recommend it for a fun, safe, and utterly unique travel experience in the Caribbean, especially if you’re interested in history, architecture, the contradictory effects of socialism, lively music and great dining. We enjoyed our best meal at family run La Casa a celebrity dining destination.  Although the Tropicana night club show is a bit campy, it is definitely a fun cabaret evening. Launched in 1939, it quickly spread the spicy Latin culture to the world, the Tropicana showgirls described as “Las Diosas de Carne” or “Flesh Goddesses”, were celebrated for their curvaceous figures and their embellished feather-and-sparkly sequin costumes. Tropicana Club inspired musical revues in New York, Las Vegas and Paris.

Trinidad Cuba

Trinidad – a UNESCO World Heritage site is a picturesque town filled with small taverns and ice cream shops. The Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad is the finest lodging and overlooks the charming Plaza Mayor, strolled by the locals on Sunday afternoons. A gathering spot for conga drums, animated singers and percussionists who participate in small impromptu festivals. Don’t miss the Museo Romantico, a 19th-century colonial mansion with period furniture and textiles, evidence of the once opulent lifestyle of this city. Sunday street vendors offer crafts and local cuisine.

Tobacco Farmer, Vinales

Yes, we survived the taxi ride – despite the lack of interior panels and the ancient driver!

Paseo del Prado, Havana

At the Hemingway Museum

And how do you spend a cold stormy day? Spanish Scrabble with your waiter..Mojito, Si! Yes, he won!

Postcards mailed, but never received in the US.

Monthly rations

Trinidad – colorful and curious

Imagine no cell phones ringing on the street, no one walking down the avenues, head down tapping on a keyboard, no billboards or advertising – quite pure in an odd sense. You will see political signs elevating Fidel Castro and other national heroes. A brief visit, not necessarily a place to spend a lifetime. Still one must be a member of an organized tour group to visit.