Do you know how many men it took to make your leather bag? Chouara Tannery, Fez.

The punishing labor required to create leather handbags and shoes is accomplished in one of the most well-known tanneries in Fez, Morocco. The city is Morocco’s third largest city and home to one of the most interesting medinas in the country. Workers stretch hides and dye leather in 95 F heat to ultimately produce coats, handbags, babouche, and other leather goods such as poufs, belts, and hats. Goat skins more readily absorb dyes than sheep or cowhides, which is why the colors of Moroccan leather are richer and more saturated.

Chouara Tannery, Fez.

Many of the items will be exported to France, Spain, and India; much will end up in the local souks to tempt travelers. Fez is home to three ancient tanneries, but the most famous is Chouara which is almost a thousand years old.

With over 9,000 maze like alleyways filled to the brim with shops selling just about everything, one needs a guide to lead you to the hidden tannery. We walked through narrow crowded path to enter a leather shop and climbed the stairs to an outdoor terrace overlooking the vats. A sprig of mint under my Pandemic mask camouflaged the strong acrid stench. The tannery consists of a honeycomb layout stretching across a huge courtyard of sorts, stone vats filled with various dyes and foul-smelling fluid.

Centuries old technique requires workers to soak the skins in cow urine for several days; later, workers use pigeon excrement to smooth the leather. Workers stand barefoot in vats kneading and soaking the skins, the kneading softens the skins. Three days of treatment includes skinning any leftover hair and fat on the skins.

Standing in the vats, the workers go about their duties, ending up with their own skin dyed in various colors as a result.

Chouara Tannery, Fez.

Various fresh products are used to produce the different hues. Mint, for example, is used to achieve a green color; cedar wood for brown; henna for orange; saffron for yellow; indigo for blue; and poppy flower for red. Olive oil is also sometimes used to give the leather a shiny gloss.

Afterwards, the products are dried on the roofs of the Medina – and then, to market.

The hard work, all done manually, is carried out by men only – a skill that is passed down from generation to generation.

Chouara Tannery, Fez.

The ancient tannery is one of three in the Old Medina, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981.

Bhutan – The Happiest Country – What You Need Now!

The National Memorial Chorten is a Tibetan style stupa also known as “jangchub chorten” is one of the cities tallest structures, an iconic landmark near the center of Thimphu. The memorial chorten is visible from almost all corners of Thimphu and it is one of the most interesting sights in Thimphu. The Chorten, held in great religious fervor, is circumambulated only in a clockwise direction, while reciting prayers and gently whirling the large red prayer wheels. This prayer pattern is the rule for any religious structures in Bhutan. It’s a stunning vision of pristine white against the backdrop of the brilliant sapphire sky.

National Memorial Chorten, Bhutan.

The Chorten attracts many elderly Bhutanese on a daily basis who slowly circle the chorten, whirl the large red prayer wheels and pray at the shrine. Long beaded rosaries in their gnarled hands, they may spend the entire day here praying and socializing with the predominately elder locals. At the many prayer wheels, you might see ancient looking women and men sitting beneath the prayer wheels fingering their beads, praying, counting the repetition on the beads. They may be visiting or staying with their adult children and are dropped off for the day- a ritualistic life of praying for themselves and others. They may sit there all day on a cushion, in layers of clothing for warmth, it’s also a social outing as most of the people sitting and praying appear quite elderly. Although when asked their age, many are in their early to mid 60’s. they amble clockwise around the prayer wheel complex, gently pushing the worn wooden handles in a clockwise turn, making their rounds all day long, praying and counting their prayers on their beads or rosaries. 

Thousands of people circumambulate this stupa every day. Mornings and evenings are particularly crowded. Young and old come here from dawn till dusk to pray and cleanse the sin they might have accumulated through various ways by way of bodily action and speech.

One of the elderly ladies saying her prayers at the National Memorial Chorten, Bhutan
National Memorial Chorten, prayer wheel. Bhutan
National Memorial Chorten, local elders pray and visit. Bhutan

It was built in 1974 as a memorial to the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928–72). The whitewashed chorten, with its sun-catching golden finial, is decorated with richly painted annexes facing the cardinal directions, and features elaborate mandalas, statues and a shrine dedicated to the popular King. The main patron was the Druk Gyalpo’s mother, Phuntsho Choden. While the interior of the chorten is decorated with richly carved annexes facing the four directions, and contain mandalas, statues and a shrine dedicated to the third king.The ground floor of the chorten is consecrated to the teachings of Vajrakilya. It has four shrines, each with different pictures of the king; with the eastern shrine housing a Buddha image.

National Memorial Chorten, local elders pray and visit. Bhutan