It’s the people you meet on the Journey – Taste Dalmatia

The people you meet while traveling can be a significant slice of each Journey. Often, some of the encounters I’ve enjoyed are more impactful memories than the scenery – amazing individuals I’ve met along the way. Chefs, home cooks or professional, guides or strangers– I collect nuggets from my random chance meetings, every Journey is transformative and the strangers who become friends are to be cherished.

Only 20 minutes from the old town of Dubrovnik is an ancient garden estate in Trsteno, known now as Trsteno Arboretum. The oldest arboretum in the Dalmatian coast doubles as the gardens in Game of Thrones. My VIP Croatia team know I love to visit home chefs and take private cooking classes, I’ve learned not to take classes in India and in kitchens where a complex menu requires serious cooking skills. I am a good cook, lesson learned in the Maldives with a Michelin chef at the yummy Indian restaurant, my kitchen skills cannot do justice to such a complicated meal. I’m quite efficient at making reservations!

Double pleasure when I dined at Taste Dalmatia, arrive at sunset to the private gate of a massive overgrown garden and walk through the Trsteno Arboretum to reach the cozy home of Katja. An exclusive offering from our VIP Croatia team. Gardens and yummy home cooked dinner! We have clients in Croatia now who will be dining in Katja’s garden this week!

In 1494, a Nobleman named Ivan Marinov Gučetić-Gozze erected a summer villa and laid out a beautiful garden at his estate in Trsteno, a small fishing town just outside Dubrovnik. Both the villa and its botanical gardens soon became a hub of Renaissance humanism in the Croatian city. The garden arboretum extends across 70 acres overlooking the Adriatic Sea and is the oldest arboretum on the Dalmatian coast. It’s home to more than 300 species of plants and trees, including many exotic types. The highlight of the collection are two rare Oriental Plane trees that are around 150 feet tall and over 500 years old.

Trsteno Arboretum came to life when the Gozze family requested the returning ship captains to bring seeds and plants from their travels. The gardens house banana trees, cactus and are decorated with ruins and sculptures including the remains of an old olive press. The scent of lavender, rosemary and fuchsia fills the air.

Stroll to the edge of the gardens and enter a small estate owned by a local family for over 250 years, a well-maintained olive grove with a stunning view of the Elafites.

Leafy winding paths lead to vegetable gardens, more olives and humble stone homes ending at the beach. The vegetable garden is amazing, the soil and sea air produce massive show stopping vegetables and flowers.

This fresh organic produce and herbs are incorporated by the home-based chef, Katja who serves dinner or brunch on her cozy terrace. Classic Home Cooking, comfort food. She offers classes or in my case, a delightful dinner and a couple of hours of cooking conversation! Her terraced garden is the perfect location to end a hot summer day in Dubrovnik. Oh, did I mention the summer cicada symphony?!

Cooking classes can include bread making as no true traditional meal in Croatia is complete without a hot loaf of bread. Baked in an iron pot with a dome called a peka, as their ancestors used to make every day. Fresh fish, her father offers catch of the day.

A bottle of Croatian wine and her special rose liquor aids in the telling of stories. Local olive oils, Adriatic salt and just picked vegetables are served in abundance.

Delicious vegetable dishes, fish from the sea, caught at dawn by her father – this is a family affair and a rare private peek into a local home with an engaging talented chef and host.

A silver crescent moon emerged over the cozy garden; I could have chatted with Katja all evening!

Rosolio. Rose Petal Liquor from Katja: Layer rose petals and sugar in a large glass jar, making sugar the last layer. Keep in the sun for 1.5 months, until the sugar melts and the rose petals begin to release their scent. Filter juice and mix it with grappa- this is the extraordinary elixir!

The wine captures the delicate floral aroma of fresh rose petals in a light and fresh summertime aperitif.  Serve over crushed ice. živjeli!

Rosolio, also known as “the liqueur of the past” for its extremely ancient origins, started spreading at the end of the 17th century. It was first produced in monasteries, where nuns used to macerate rose petals in alcohol to produce a liqueur for important guests.

Croatian food and wine are one of the most popular aspects of each travel arrangement but also a major reason for arrival for an increasing number of travelers and groups. Food and wine travel in Croatia is diverse as the country’s cultural heritage itself. From the Central European North, Hungarian influences East to Italian flavors of Istria and unique East-meets-Mediterranean on the coast. Each region has its own dishes, treasures they value and cherish.

Food and wine travel in Croatia brings these treasures closer and opens the closed doors of old konobas, wine cellars, grandmother’s kitchens and introduces the travelers to the authentic tastes of the region. The private class or dinner includes a driver to and from your five-star hotel.

Katja!

Highly Recommend!

Exclusive Yves Saint Laurent, Dar el-Hanch – Marrakech

Join us for an Exclusive Journey in Marrakech, to the original home of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, Very few visitors are allowed in this private home, but we are! Last winter, an utterly serendipitous meeting in Morocco led me directly to the lacquered red door of the captivating owner, an American woman who owns the first home of YSL and his partner Pierre Bergé. I was giddy with excitement and enchanted after spending the morning sipping tea on a sun-filled terrace in the magical historic home. We are pen-pals and I hope to see her again in Marrakech or in the states. She is an absolute delight and a superb conversationalist.

Waiting to visit Dar el-Hanch, Marrakech!

Explore the first home of YSL, Dar el-Hanch, with our exceptional Moroccan team. It’s possible to meet the owner, it’s possible to spend a private morning sipping tea, it’s possible to organize a private sunset cocktail event or a decadent evening absorbing the energy of Yves Saint Laurent. We are thrilled to share this Exclusive Experience in Marrakech.

The Story.  It’s well-known by fashionistas that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, lived in Morocco, enjoying many happy years in Marrakech and Tangier, leaving tangible homes and gardens infused with the dazzling style and color known to YSL.

In 1966, they arrived Marrakech and for many years, lived at the now famed La Mamounia before buying their first home. La Mamounia was a much humbler, yet slightly luxurious hotel at the time.

Marrakech was an inspiration, YSL was in lust with the colors, the light and the culture. He was raised in Algeria, and some say he was reminded of the Maghreb of his youth. Marrakech was a place to recharge his batteries, an exotic city with endless inspiration. He has been quoted:  “Marrakech has opened me to colour.”

Our Exclusive Story. What most travelers are unaware of, is the story of their first modest home in Marrakech, Dar el-Hanch, Arabic for ‘House of the Serpent‘. Last winter, I had the serendipitous good fortune of spending half a day at this charming home in the Marrakech Medina with the current owner. She has lived here for years, with the original hand drawn and painted coiled serpent painting on the dining room wall, painted by YSL. A ubiquitous symbol in his work, in jewelry, note cards and fashion. The painted serpent is mesmerizing. Gardens infused with climbing vines, melodic fountains, exotic colorful tile terraces and staircases. Moroccan architecture reflecting the history of the country, even in this humble home, include open arches gazing down on colorful mosaic tile-work floors. Moroccan style isn’t lost at Dar el-Hanch, intricate patterned brick fireplaces, colorful tiled walls, a typical Moroccan home is centered around a center tiled or marbled courtyard. A cooling breeze floats through the top floor terrace, covered in blooming vines, stately palms feather in the neighbor gardens. Interior windows are framed with the intricate carved wood lattice panels, known as Mashrabiya screens, providing privacy and a cool breeze.

Dar el-Hanch, was unpretentiously furnished by YSL and Pierre Bergé. Yet it provided a true sense of liberation behind the high walls, a small garden filled with orange blossoms, flowering vines and towering palm trees. It became a meeting place of creatives: Andy Warhol, Mick and Bianca Jagger.

Make a YSL pilgrimage to Marrakech, visit the rarely open to the public, Dar el-Hanch and continue onward with a private guide for a tour of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The museum opened in 2017 to much fanfare, as the French designer regularly celebrated his love for Marrakech and the inspiration it gave his work.

You and your guide will then go next door for a tour of the famously blue Jardin Majorelle, a botanical fantasy designed by Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. It was given to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé by the city of Marrakech when they purchased Villa Oasis. The couple spent much of their time devotedly restoring the space, we can also arrange this as a private experience.

This colorful corner of Marrakech also includes the small but equally important, Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Celebrating the heritage of the original nomadic Moroccans.

Next, experience an exclusive, private visit to the exquisite retreat of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé: the Villa Oasis. The former home of the French expat artist Jacques Majorelle, Villa Oasis was acquired by the couple in the 1980s, and they spent part of every year at their treasured sanctuary until their deaths.

The villa interiors include pieces that Majorelle painted, as well as many traditional Moroccan elements such as hand painted tiled floors, coffered ceilings, and intricate stencil and metalwork and arched doors. The rooms are also home to an incredible private collection of books, paintings and works of art amassed by the couple over the years.

Linger on a hidden bench in the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle, a glamorous space decorated with rare plants in the iconic blues and yellows that are synonymous with YSL’s  life in Marrakech. Surrounded by the soft reverberations of dribbling fountains and birdsong, we can arrange a private lunch in the garden for you and your friends. We may have other local professionals who can join and share their direct knowledge of this fascinating couple.

More here, A Moroccan Passion translated by my new friend, José Abete.

In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Bergé recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. Bergé awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. Photos of Dar el-Hanch are included in this beautiful book.