Back to Bangkok!

Thailand’s capital city draws an estimated 45 million tourists yearly and several travel publications have deemed it one of the world’s best cities. It’s easy to see why travelers would gravitate here, with its colorful patchwork of Buddhist temples and ultra-modern hotels, gleaming temples and three-wheeled tuk-tuks.

Temple Offerings at Jim Thompson House and Garden[/caption]

Peak season is between November and March when tourism is particularly high. The months of March, April and May are the hottest. December to February: regarded as the ‘cold months’, the perfect time to explore Bangkok on foot. Visitors looking to participate in Bangkok’s festival season should visit from November through May.

[ The Temple of Dawn, Bangkok

My two visits in December coincided with a heatwave, one from a cold northern California winter shouldn’t complain, but 95 degrees combined with 95% humidity was challenging. Modify touring, visit Temples and shrines as soon as they open and add a long tail boat for a canal tour in the afternoon and sip gallons of freshly juiced pomegranates!

A long list of tours, besides the city Temple tours, Wat Pho, the glimmering golden reclining Buddha is breathtaking. Chinatown night tour with sidewalk snacking from street vendors – yes, I did this! My first evening out, my guide took me to a small hillside bar with a stunning illuminated view of the Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. An easy walk down the hill through the Pak Klong Talat market, one of Bangkok’s largest, liveliest and loveliest markets. A maze of wholesale and retail vendors selling flowers, vegetables, fruits, Pak Klong is truly a delight for the senses. Nighttime doesn’t limit activity, Bangkok never sleeps, in my case a behind the scene look at the flower vendors preparing for a National Holiday, florists were creating dozens and dozens of orange marigold wreaths to be laid on local altars. My favorite is the small jasmine bracelets, enchanting fragrant adornment for your pillow!

Wat Pho, Bangkok

 

[ Flower Market Bangkok

Bangkok is overflowing with ancient markets, easily reached by the long tail ferry boats – narrow down your choices and definitely include a few of the floating markets outside of the city. I love the vibrant market scene – similar to the souks of Marrakech, in that the markets are in small cavernous buildings, narrow foot traffic is interrupted by small scooters, workers dragging transport carts, a vibrant sea of activity. Booths and small permanent shops offering strange, sometimes useful, sometimes not so useful items. Clay handicrafts, wooden furniture, ceramic ware, local artists host small studios. 

Tha Kha floating market

Start in early morning to visit the local floating markets and the Mae Klong market where the train rolls through, vendors quickly move their tarps of fresh vegetables to allow the train to pass. Minutes later, they’ve unrolled their tarps of vegetables and the market continues. Saturday is a popular local day for the floating markets and less touristy. Dawn to dusk floating market tour at Tha Kha floating market, is one of the most authentic markets in Bangkok. Observe an age-old way of living, ancient ladies in their wooden rowboats selling meals, drinks, household objects, vegetable and fruit from their gardens. A long tail boat ride here offers a quiet glimpse of Thai living, their somewhat dated wooden homes along the river bank interrupted by deep green fields and local farms. My knowledgeable guide picked up greens from the rowboat ladies and we took to a local restaurant to enjoy with massive prawns – the restaurant was happy to steam the just picked greens.

Jim Thompson House, the Bangkok based American businessman who is still missing since 1967, is honored by the firm still running his silk business in maintaining his unique house and beautiful gardens. Thompson pieced together his small estate from six traditional Thai teak wood houses in order to house his growing collection of Southeast Asian art. A beautiful representation of authentic Thai design and a stunning inspiring garden set along the banks of the river. 
  Jim Thompson Home and Garden

 Jim Thompson Home and Garden

[ Amulet Market, Bangkok

One of my goals was to visit the amulet market, a rewarding afternoon combined with visiting a few Thai temples and hidden neighborhoods. My last day in Bangkok was spent at the amulet market, a mini sacred day outing. After my 10 days in Bhutan absorbing Buddhist culture this was the perfect end to my three-week Asia exploration. City tour of the spiritual and mystic side of Bangkok, with a focus on religious shrines, spiritual art and local worship ceremonies.  Talismans, some prized by collectors are sorted by type, vintage and provenance. Religious charms and traditional medicine can be discovered in one of Bangkok’s oldest markets, you may be bumping elbows with monks as well as men in dangerous occupations, looking for an amulet to ward off danger or to ensure long life. Bargaining is expected!

Visiting the Amulet Markets, Giant Swing, Wat Suthat, and the historic Bang Luang Mosque. One can learn a great deal about Thailand, its belief system, and the life of everyday Thais by looking beneath the surface of the city, in the spirit shrines, amulet markets, tattoo houses, and other symbols that connect the people and their faiths. From Chinese shrines to Brahmin deities, picturesque mosques and talismans galore, multi-faith Thailand offers fascinating windows into the diverse beliefs of the people.

Dining and Hotels to come, something intriguing for all tastes. Bangkok is overflowing with Michelin restaurants and authentic street food stalls – an exciting gamut of dining experiences.. 

Street Scenes Bangkok

Allerton Garden Kauai

SUNSET ALLERTON ESTATE TOUR – an intimate sensual experience. The garden island of Kauai has three botanical gardens under management of the National Tropical Botanical Garden organization. The Allerton Garden is tucked away in the secluded Lāwa‘i Valley.Allerton Garden KauaiArrive late afternoon and board the small bus with your knowledgeable guide. Do arrive early enough to peruse the fascinating gift shop. Everyone we met on property, staff and guide seem to love the garden, their work place is in this magical jade green kingdom.

What I loved about the Sunset Tour is that it includes a scenic view of the expansive property from above; traversed in the tram on an old winding sugar cane dirt road, plus it includes hiking amid the series of garden rooms which unfold between the Lāwa`i Stream and the cliffs of the Valley.

Besides the sheer beauty of the immense tropical plants, the gardens were designed to delight the senses with the sound of water…miniature waterfalls and gurgling fountains are secreted amid the landscapes. Even a gentle wind ruffling the dainty leaves in the great bamboo grove stimulates the senses. Enormous Buddha graces the bamboo grove, serenity is guaranteed.

This garden also contains the ancient Jurassic Fig trees; hefty spreading roots large enough to conceal an average size adult. Nothing in this garden is small; the tropical paradise is a garden of colossal growth.Allerton Gardens KauaiAppreciate the grounds in the late afternoon on a hot and humid day, the garden provides dappled shade and cool breezes ripple through the monstrous trees. After a meandering hike through various distinctive rooms, you reach a private beach where a light supper is served on the lānai in the former home of the Allertons. At dusk, cross the suspension bridge for a beach walk and gaze across the lagoon, the graceful home glows under the pink tinges of sunset. With his detailed trust, Robert Allerton ensured that nothing would change in his magical garden, including detailed manuals outlining tree height and tree trimming – his dream garden will never be modified, a perpetual gift to visitors.

Allerton Bamboo GroveFrom the Allerton Garden website: Once a retreat of Hawai`i’s Queen Emma, the cliffs of the Lāwa`i Valley still cascade with her favorite deep-purple bougainvillea. Pass into a majestic garden of beauty, a masterpiece of landscape design, and a natural showcase for tropical plants.

Towering rainforest trees with tall curving roots grow near bronze mermaids, a grove of swaying golden bamboo, a cut-flower garden, and tropical fruit trees. Here the focus is on landscape design, but among the plantings are botanically important species of the tropics, including varieties of palms, ki (ti), heliconias, and gingers.

Imagine yourself visiting the Allertons through private invitation. Venture beyond the golden bamboo forest, along a gentle stream, and past the guesthouse where such notables as Jacqueline Kennedy once stayed.

Walk across the expansive oceanfront lawn and get an inside peek of the estate home with the Allertons’ personal collection of paintings, pictures, and memorabilia.

Allerton Garden extends along the banks of the Lāwa‘i Stream where the valley narrows before opening onto the Pacific Ocean. The earliest history of Allerton Garden was intermingled with the upper part of the Lāwa‘i Valley that is now the McBryde Garden. Both were integral to the ahupua`a (land division) of Lāwa‘i. It was not until well after the arrival of the first Europeans in the late 1700s and the subsequent changes to the traditional Hawaiian way of life that the history of the lower Lāwa‘i Valley began to diverge from that of the upper valley.

Lāwa‘i Valley was granted to James Young Kanehoa in 1848. He was the son of John Young, an advisor to Hawaii’s King Kamehameha I. Kanehoa willed a third of the land to his niece Queen Emma when he died and she received the rest of it in 1885 from Kanehoa’s widow, Hikoni. She first visited Lāwa‘i on a tour of the kingdom with her husband Liholiho, King Kamehameha IV. After the death of her husband and young son the Queen retreated to Lāwa‘i. She planted rose apples, Alexandrian laurel, mangoes, bamboo, pandanus, ferns, and bougainvillea on the valley cliffs. Some of these plants still grace the Allerton Garden today.

The McBryde family, who owned a significant amount of agricultural land on the southwest side of the island, leased the Lāwa‘i Valley from Queen Emma, who reserved for herself the cottage and surrounding land. They purchased the property outright from her estate in 1886. The upper valley was intensively cultivated in sugar cane, while taro and rice were grown in the lower portion by tenant farmers. In 1899 the lower valley was conveyed to Alexander McBryde. He lowered one of Queen Emma’s cottages to the valley floor and lived in it for many years. Alexander planted palms, gingers, plumerias, and ferns in gardens along the beach. By 1930 most of the small-scale agriculture in the lower valley had decreased and the tenant farmer population had declined.Allerton Gardens KauaiIn 1938 McBryde sold the property to Robert Allerton. Allerton was the only son of a Mayflower descendant who had made his fortune in Chicago in livestock, banking, and real estate. After spending five years studying art in Europe, Allerton concluded that he would never be successful as an artist and he returned to Chicago. He became an avid art collector and patron. He also became fascinated by landscape architecture and set about planning a series of formal gardens and settings for statues at “The Farms” in Monticello, Illinois.

Allerton met John Gregg, a young architectural student at the University of Illinois, whom he eventually adopted. The two men traveled the world on collecting trips, purchasing works of art and getting new inspiration for the gardens. On their way home to Illinois from a collecting trip in the Pacific in 1937, the Allertons visited Kaua‘i and were captivated with the lower portion of the Lāwa‘i Valley. They purchased the property. In 1938 they moved into their new home, which was designed by John Gregg. They called the property “Lāwa‘i-kai” (kai is the Hawaiian word for “near the sea.”).

Robert Allerton and John Gregg immediately began designing and laying out the gardens, continuing to include exotic plants as Alexander McBryde had done. They enlarged the gardens with plants they collected in Southeast Asia and the Pacific and they introduced classic statuary that they collected as well.

In the 1960s Robert joined with a group of organizations and individuals committed to establishing a tropical botanical garden for the United States. Together they petitioned Congress and in 1964, the last year of Robert Allerton’s life, the charter was granted to establish the Pacific Tropical Botanical Garden. A gift from Robert to the fledgling institution made possible the purchase of land adjacent to the Allerton Garden, which became part of its first garden (now known as the McBryde Garden).

John Gregg Allerton inherited Lāwa‘i-kai and continued to live there. He often extended impromptu invitations to those on NTBG’s public tours to venture into his garden for a personally guided visit. John passed away in 1986, leaving the estate in trust. The National Tropical Botanical Garden formally assumed management of the Allerton Garden for the Allerton Gardens Trust in the early 1990s.

No history of the Allerton Garden would be complete without the mention of Hideo Teshima, who grew up in the Lāwa‘i Valley and was employed by the Allertons at age 14.  Hideo eventually became superintendent of the garden under the direction of the NTBG and served in that capacity until his death in 2001. The impression that Teshima left on the garden is deep, including the creation of the Palmetum, which is named in his honor.

Today the National Tropical Botanical Garden nurtures this land in the tradition of its past stewards, as a place where nature and human creativity meet in unparalleled beauty.Allerton Gardens KauaiSchedule an evening visit and if you are looking for a wonderful foundation to support, they need to build a museum to house the owners’ beautiful artifacts.

http://ntbg.org/gardens/allerton.php