Tag Archives: Papua New Guinea

Where to See Incredible Natural Beauty, Natives and Cannibals?

Posted on by

Papua New Guinea (PNG) is probably the most diverse yet least explored country in the Asia-Pacific region. This British Commonwealth country, which gained independence from Australia in 1975, was also once a German colony, and has long fascinated travelers and adventurers. By 2011 it had become the seventh fastest growing economy in the entire world, mainly due to its vast mining and natural resource industry. Isolated tribes often never see outsiders.

PNG has over 600 islands and more than 800 different cultural groups that have a wide range of dialects, art, music, dance, fashion and architecture. Over 95 percent of the almost 6 million people are Christians, though many combine this faith with their indigenous animism. Seashells were the official currency until 1933. PNG is less than a tenth of the size of Australia but has just as many species of animals. This is a place where the kangaroos live in trees and the marsupials are plentiful.

The Korowai, also called the Kolufo, live in southeastern Papua in the Indonesian provinces of South Papua and Highland Papua. Until the late 1970s, when anthropologists embarked on a study of the tribe, the Korowai were unaware of the existence of any peoples other than themselves, due to vast distances in their communities. Most of the Korowai clans live in tree houses on their isolated forested territory. The 2007 BBC documentary First Contact, presented by Mark Anstice, features footage from his 1999 encounter with members of the Korowai people, and describes how they were disturbed upon seeing a “white ghost”, whose presence indicated the end of the world was nigh. The Korowai have been reported to practice ritual cannibalism up to the present day. Anthropologists suspect that cannibalism is no longer practiced by the Korowai clans that have had frequent contact with outsider’s.  Recent reports suggest that certain clans have been coaxed into encouraging tourism by perpetuating the myth that cannibalism is still an active practice.

PNG is physically spectacular, with lush rainforests, flooded deltas, pristine highlands, thick jungles, active volcanoes and picturesque mountains, the highest peak is 14,793 feet.

PNG
PNG

Military historians will enjoy visiting various sites which saw fierce combat during World War II – especially around Rabaul. Destinations include Alotau, the Sing Sing festivals at Mount Hagan, Goroka, world-class diving in Madang, Simbai/Kaironk Valley, Ambunti, canoe trips on the Sepik River and the capital of Port Moresby.

I’ve wanted to visit these intriguing islands for decades, and it requires advance planning, which is not how I usually travel! Adventure arrives in a random email invitation, or I add on areas to business trips, but this year I have planned to go on a luxury ship expedition to Papua New Guinea, a 17-day Ponant expedition cruise aboard Le Jacques Cartier to explore the wonders and ancestral tribes of Papua New Guinea. Located below the waterline, the Blue Eye offers a unique experience: the opportunity to enjoy undersea views and the sounds of the marine world whilst sipping a cocktail! In brief, Le Jacques Cartier has 92 staterooms and suites; 2 restaurants; and carries up to 184 guests. The ship is considered a small luxury cruise ship.

I will board ship in Cairns and the Le Jacques Cartier will sail for Papua New Guinea, a fascinating land that is home to no fewer than 700 ethnic groups within a highly diverse yet mainly unexplored ecosystem. Sail to Alotau, in Milne Bay province, and discover a rich history shaped by pearl farmers, miners and missionaries.

I’m not a cruise type person, and our clients charter yachts, so I’ve only enjoyed a few cruise or expedition adventures. Exploring PNG by boat is the best path to truly explore most of this area. Ponant is a different way to cruise, their travel philosophy reinterprets cruising and introduces you to discover or rediscover iconic destinations. Ponant isn’t listed under many prestigious travel firms like A&K, however they are the ships offered and managed by many high-end companies for their cruise Journeys. I think I will love the experience. Although the concept of unpacking once and not schlepping around the huge bags I normally tote sounds delicious!

My Voyage: Your call at Tufi will be one of the highlights of your voyage. Dubbed the Scandinavia of the Tropics, you will undoubtedly fall under the charm of this picturesque region, with its deep ‘fjords’ known locally as ‘rias’, which were formed through volcanic activity. In this unique setting, local Papuan tribes will share their customs, beliefs and artwork with you.

  • PNG
  • PNG
  • PNG

You will then head north along the coast to Madang, nicknamed ‘the most beautiful city in the South Pacific’. Within this stunning province exists great geographical diversity and 170 different languages are spoken there.

In the village of Kopar, situated at the mouth of the Sepik River, you will be welcomed with cultural performances and witness life in a traditional village.

As you voyage across Western New Guinea you will experience Cenderawasih Bay, with an unforgettable opportunity to swim with whale sharks and in the spectacular Kitikiti Waterfall, surrounded by lush nature.

You will then sail to the heart of Triton Bay. Located within a protected marine environment in the middle of the Coral Triangle, where you will enjoy an unforgettable zodiac cruise through the spectacular rainforest-capped karst islands.

Before ending your cruise in Darwin, you will set the course for the Kei Islands, located in the Maluku Islands. These hidden gems surrounded by unbelievably blue water boast some of the most beautiful white-sand beaches in Indonesia.

The best time to visit Papua New Guinea is between May and October, when the weather is dry and most of the festivals are held.

Festivals Morobe Agricultural Show. October Hosted by the Morobe Provincial Agricultural Society in the city of Lae, this annual two-day event in Papua New Guinea shows off the surrounding province’s impressive culture diversity. Among the tribal dances and songs of this 50-year-old event, visitors will also find agricultural, livestock, educational and cultural exhibitions.

Crocodile Festival August. Every year in the East Sepik province of Papua New Guinea, a three-day event is held to celebrate everything crocodile. The stars of the show – the fresh and saltwater river crocodiles – are an important part of local heritage. This festival highlights their importance within the ecosystem and also promotes conservation.

Location East Sepik, Papua New Guinea. Enga Cultural Show August. For three days in August, Wabag Town in the Highlands region of Papua New Guinea stages a sensational meeting for the people of Enga, showcasing all their cultural variants in spectacular fashion. The people of this province are unique in that they can all speak the same language, making them the largest linguistic group in the country.

Mask Festival July. This three-day festival held in Rabaul showcases Papua New Guinea’s instantly recognizable mask culture. Groups from across the region display their masks, provide musical performances and host fire dances. Organized by the Cultural Commission there really is no better place to see such a wealth of masks on live display.

5th Melanesian Festival. June-July. The 5th Melanesian Festival invites cultural groups from across the South Pacific to visit Papua New Guinea and participate in this vibrant two-week cultural and art exhibition. Port Moresby hosts the major events, with Kokopo, Alotau, Wewak and Mt. Hagen also joining in the fun with a series of performances and shows.

Kenu & Kundu Festival November. Visitors will find the Kenu and Kundu Festival along the beautiful bay in the equally stunning town of Alotau, Milne Bay Province. As both drums and canoes play a significant role in the lives of locals here, expect to see them in rich supply during this 3-day cultural show. There’s also a host of arts and crafts, music and plays.

Goroka Festival, September. The Goroka Festival is an important date for many in the Eastern Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea. Stretching back over 50 years, this weekend show is a well-known gathering showcasing as many as 100 different tribes, all of whom sing, dance and parade in front of each other, as well as the many onlooking international guests.

My PNG Adventure.

Tribal Off the Grid Epic Adventures

Posted on by

Punch Magazine once profiled my firm in their magazine: Going Above and Abroad. The editor concluded the piece with this: If there are cannibals, she is going to visit!

As time passes, a mishmash of age, pandemic lockdown, wisdom and breaking body parts has me noodling a long list of must go to travel locations: Cannibals would be on the list, my National Geographic Lindblad Expedition to the Marquesas was an epic adventure, it was pre-knee replacement which potentially downed me from days of canoe paddling a leafy river to see the Mudmen of Papua New Guinea, bouncing into a Zodiac and hiking to Tigers Nest in Bhutan!

Relish a few of the adventures on the top of my list with one of our extreme adventure teams.

This 14-day adventure itinerary covers the Highlands and remote areas of the Upper Sepik. You’ll have the chance to meet the legendary Mudmen, observing their rituals, and trek up the country’s highest peak. A four-day canoe adventure will take you past the incredible sights and sounds of villages and forests that line the country’s longest river, the mighty Sepik River. A Sepik canoe adventure includes spending several nights in humble abodes in local village. Finish off with some beach time in the white sands of Louisia.

Image result for crocodile festival png


The Sepik River occupies a special place in Papua New Guinea. It is probably the most known region in the country. The people along the river depend heavily on it for transportation, water and food.

Mudmen

Crocodile eggs are a precious commodity together with crocodile skins, highly praised internationally for their quality. The tribes living along the Sepik River are well known for their impressive, intricately carved spirit houses with soaring gabled roofs called haus tambaran now used to debate village matters. The Sepik people are also world-renowned for their elaborate wood carvings, including shields, masks, canoes with crocodile-head prows, suspension hooks for food, spirit house posts, orators’ stools, ceremonial hooks and drums known as garamut. The carvers are greatly respected by their tribes.

I’m certain if you sip coffee at your local cafe, none of the locals will ever provide as much intrigue as these natives.

Highlights: Meet the legendary Asaro mudmen and learn about their fascinating history; Trek the country’s highest peak, all the way to its Base Camp; enjoy a languid four-day Sepik canoeing adventure; relax on the pristine beaches of Louisia; get well-acquainted with Louisia on a full-day tour, with activities that include the local Tapioca dance, visits to local villages, and a boat trip to nearby islands. Bed down for the night at Kiriwina Lodge.

Intrepid travelers send dates! My knee replacement is now at ‘intrepid’ level!

Image result for - Goroka Festival

Additional Papua New Guinea – Goroka Festival This 14-day itinerary, built around its main highlight, the Goroka Cultural Show, takes you deep into the culture of Papua New Guinea. You’ll be entertained by all kinds of varied traditional local dances put on by different tribes decked out in vibrant ancestral dress, while also meeting with local chieftains, and local villagers who will welcome you with grand smiles. You’ll arrive a visitor to Papua New Guinea, and leave a friend.

Highlights: Exclusive meetings with village Chiefs; get a front-row seat to one of the country’s most entertaining festivals; watch traditional village life as you drift by along the river in a wooden canoe; sip fresh, delicious Goroka coffee.

Enticed? There’s more! Can I tell you about the Gulf Mask Festival in PNG?
Location: The Gulf Mask Festival is held in the Gulf Province located on the southern coast of Papua New Guinea, in a small village of Toare.

While Gulf isn’t an entirely isolated province, it’s a remote region located on the southern coast of Papua New Guinea. Barely served by roads, river and sea remain the main means of transportation. But even with the sea access, small boats stay ashore for about half a year. The southeast trade winds blowing directly into the Gulf bring heavy rains, make the sea rough and the journey dangerous. This remoteness has contributed to the uniqueness of the Gulf culture.

Toare village, with its blue sea and white sandy beach, is an idyllic location. Listen for the growing rhythmic drum beating a signal to start. Proudly wearing the best of their exquisite traditional attire and elaborate masks, the dancers entertain in an assembled group.

Papuans in the Yahukimo Regency Photo attributed to Frans Huby

In PNG, each tribe has its own distinctive attire and ornaments, or bilas. The Huli are known for the wigs made from their own hair. Large round hats made of moss, plants and hair are the identity of people from the Enga province. The Western Highlanders take pride in towering feathered headgear and vivid colors of the body paint. The Chimbus are recognized by giant headdresses made of bird of paradise feathers, an ornithologist’s nightmare. The Elema, the coastal people of the Gulf province, have the trademark too, their intricate masks.

With its stylized facial features, the Gulf masks show diversity in style, shape, colors and size. Ornate, large, tall or narrow, the masks are made of natural materials. Bark cloth, known as tapa, is stretched over a split-cane frame, sewn with plant fibre and painted with natural pigments. Although large, the masks are light-weighted allowing the men to wear them for long hours. It’s a mid-day and the sun is restless. And so are the masked men, who don’t stop their frenzy dancing on the beach, with their eyes staring through masks’ tiny gaps. It feels ancient and tribal. Not so long after, the men representing characters from local legends make the public giggle and laugh with their blunders and silly gestures.

Besides the masks and clay, many men only wear bark loincloth and arse gras, a bunch of leaves stuck into a belt to cover the backside. The women aren’t more dressed up either. Bare-breasted, with big kina shells dangling on their chests and wearing colorful grass skirts decorated with small shells, they are swinging their hips to the beats of kundu, PNG traditional drums. Made from sago palms, the grass skirts are the object of pride of local women.

Websters definesIntrepid:fearless, unafraid, undaunted, unflinching, unshrinking, bold, daring, gallant, audacious, adventurous, heroic, dynamic, spirited, indomitable; brave, courageous, valiant, valorous, stouthearted, stalwart, plucky, doughty; informal gutsy, gutty, spunky, ballsy.

Such an interesting captivating Journey ! Postcards soon, I hope!