Most, who know me, appreciate my love of safari; offer me a trip anywhere and a bush adventure is always at top of my list! Thus, in planning my recent Journey to India, knowing tigers lurked in the jungles, I had to visit…the trek is off the beaten path, but an Aman resort and tigers prove too tempting to resist.
Departing the town of Agra, it is a complicated route, five hours by car and a short train journey. The roads in India require a very skillful driver who is well versed in using the horn and dodging every nature of animal. Raju, my driver for over 12 days, wears more than the hat of an exceptional driver; we shed tears when we left him in Udaipur to fly to Mumbai! Always patient and possessing the eye of an expert safari spotter, he called out numerous camel, goat, sacred cow, baby monkey, and gypsy encampment photo-ops along the route; plus Raju was an expert at managing the ever growing piles of luggage. As noted earlier, shopping in India is fantastic! Raju and the train ride deserve separate blogs; loved it all, but one must be a bit daring to take some of the road trips and the train; in the skilled hands of Raju and my expert guides, I would do it again!
Our guide on the train kept watch on us until we arrived in Ranthambore where he turned us over to Raju (who had shockingly arrived before the train), and our new guide. Arriving at sunset to Aman-i-Khas Jungle Resort, the entire Aman staff was lined up to welcome us with a chilled lemon tipple, and a refreshingly cool mint scented linen towel. Flickering lanterns lined the path to the terrace bonfire, musicians played in the background. Again, Aman welcomes are extraordinary, the stage is set!
Aman-i-Khas is located on the fringe of Ranthambhore National Park with a dramatic backdrop of the Aravali Hills. The camp consists of 10 tents, in the midst of a stunning natural setting. Delightful luxurious tents, simple, yet fully equipped with loo, sunken tub – yes, bubbles and roses here too, king size bedroom, dressing room and living room, plus a spacious verandah. The French-Belgian architect, Jean- Michel Gathy achieved simplicity and purity in the design of these lovely tents…I could stay for a very long time and I don’t camp. A minimalist approach to replicate the by gone era of nomadic tents of the people of the northern desert and the royal hunting parties, as the area was once the hunting grounds of the Maharaja of Jaipur.
My batmen, Surender, who anticipated every need before I made a request, provided a personal tour of the beautiful organic garden. At all of the five star properties I visited, organic gardens are the norm, filtered water for drinking and the garden- one does not need be denied fresh vegetables and salad at any of these fine resorts.
Local villagers have organized many women’s collectives in this area; beautiful textiles, silk pajamas, woven rugs and jewelry are offered in small collectives.
Several schools welcome visitors, the children are eager to share their chalkboard math and spelling lists – this is one of my favorite events wherever I travel. Pencils and paper are very welcome and are easy to pack. I encourage meeting the locals and spending time understanding their way of life. In one village, a lovely young woman valiantly attempted to teach me how to carry the enormous water pitcher atop my head- I failed miserable- she deftly transported the full jug with supreme grace and elegance. Her lesson and laughter will endure as one my favorite recollections of my trip.
Tigers – the theme of this adventure. The tigers were elusive, despite several dawn safari drives. The jungle and forest are teeming with deer, antelope, monkeys and stunning birds. Sadly, tiger paw prints were as close as I came to the tiger. But the excitement of the search and bounding through the jungle in an open jeep always elicits a thrill.
Camel safari is offered for a sunset viewing. Definitely recommended riding a delightfully festooned camel around the extraordinary terrain encircling Aman-i-Khas. Chaldi- Chaldi (quick quick) is not in their vocabulary; a gentle ride is marvelous fun.
Aman-I Khas is an extraordinary property, the staff is extremely hospitable, the Western and Indian menu is extensive and delicious. Traditional tea is an elegant pause in the midst of a quiet afternoon, sun-downer cocktails are served around the outdoor fireplace. Blankets and cashmere shawls heaped atop the cushions, a Royal atmosphere ensues at Aman-i-Khas.
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