Warm Winter Wanderings

When it’s chilly here, it will be HOT in Argentina…time to begin plotting your escapes! Located at the foot of the snow capped Andes – one is instantly impressed and awed by this spectacular wine growing area. There are five different regions within the Province of Mendoza. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Chenin Blanc, and Malbec grapes are grown. Most of the better Argentine wines come from the province of Mendoza, desert flatlands in the foothills of the Andes that are irrigated from melting snow. While the grape varieties are European, the weather and soil conditions give the Argentine wines a very special quality. Few of us realize that Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world; and there are some spectacularly good Argentine wines. The primary reason Argentine wines are only just beginning to appear on international markets is that, with an average wine consumption of around 60 liters per head annually, there has been little surplus for export! And we thought the Italians and French consumed wine by the barrel full.

Mendoza Argentina

Mendoza is an area of magnificent estancias, marvelous wines, wonderful horseback riding, fishing and birding, rafting in the summer, golf – countless activities for families, all nearby. Or if you are inclined, follow the vineyard trail, taste from the barrel with the wine maker, and explore charming ancient wineries or appealing boutique modern facilities. Wine tasting here is by appointment only, and often includes a leisurely lunch and tasting of 4 – 8 different wines.

Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza

Empanadas

Lodging options include modern hotels in Mendoza City – or boutique properties in the countryside. Cavas Wine Lodge is a short 20 minutes away, nestled at the base of the snow capped Andes – plopped down in the middle of 35 acres of a working vineyard. Cecilia Diaz Chuit and Martin Rigal have created a splendid, award winning hotel built in a Spanish colonial style and devoted to the joys of wine. In the rooms, the spa and the Arabian feel of the patios, paintings and pottery is a constant reminder to slow down and enjoy solitude, excellent meals and delicious wine. Each room a private cabana with a roof deck with an outdoor fireplace. A small private plunge pool outside your cabana for soaking at the end of a hot day with a view of the Andes, it’s hard to imagine a more perfect setting. The trip here is a bumpy one on a gravel road, but the journey is worth it. The entrance is impressive, with a view of snow on the mountains beyond and a lobby featuring a twisted grape vine chandelier and commissioned original modern art. A sunny rectangular sitting area is outfitted with designer furniture and enough books to occupy anyone for days. Since Cavas is a bit out of town, the staff offers entertainment every night: a wine tasting class, Tango lessons, cooking classes with the Cavas chef. Actually besides wine tasting excursions, no reason to leave Cavas.

A car and driver can be arranged for dinner excursions into Mendoza, again marvelous food at very reasonable prices. Francis Mallmann 1884 restaurant recently voted as 7th best restaurant in the world by Restaurant Magazine serves high-end fusion Patagonian ingredients and French technique. Housed in an atmospheric Spanish-style building inside the Bodega Escorihuela, 1884 uses a wood- fired oven in the winery’s courtyard to prepare roasted meats and empanadas. Respecting the seasonality of his ingredients, Mallmann changes the menu every two weeks and prepares dishes with matching wine selections. During the week, you can easily combine a meal at 1884 with a tour of the bodega, which also has an art gallery.

Other Estancias are options, some an hour or two from Mendoza City, each exuding charm and within minutes of vineyards.

Mendoza is home to quite a few internationally known artists, meeting them in their studios is easily arranged. Of course private tours to wineries, dinners or lunches in vineyards or olive groves- You can also savor regional Argentine cuisine amidst olive groves and gardens, and even stargaze from vineyards, wineglass in hand.

Buenos Aires Tango

Begin with a stop in Buenos Aires, mosey to Mendoza – still craving adventure? Then trek to Chile and the beach or to more wine country at the sensational Vina Vik in Chile.

Days are shorter, summer is gradually fading, begin thinking about your winter wanderings!

Vina Vik, Chile

Vina Vik, Chile

Brilliant in Buenos Aires Floreria Atlantico

Sunny Saturday wandering in the charming Retiro neighborhood of Buenos Aires, streets lined with art galleries and chic antique emporiums, one would never expect to discover a wine and flower shop with a secret underground bar. Floreria Atlantico is an exquisite gem combining all three ingredients in a rare basement location.Floreria AtlanticoActually, I’ve never before seen this innovative combination. Running late for your dinner party? Step in for the perfect gift of fine wine and a beautiful bouquet of flowers, AND pop in downstairs to the hidden cocktail lounge for a champers or distinctive cocktail while your gifts are scrumptiously packaged.

The silver buckets brimming with fragrant tuberose and lilies are intoxicating, the flower shop is a mere prelude to the tapas treats and complex cocktails downstairs in the hidden bar. Venture down the secret stairway to a little slice of cocktail heaven.

Aline Vargas, Renato Giovannoni and Julian Diaz, owner of the celebrated local restaurant 878, opened Floreria Atlantico in 2013, envisioning a speakeasy style. Replacing an unpopular bar in this gentrified neighborhood, the flower and wine shop was an afterthought, a gift to the locals of Arroyo Street.Floreria AtlanticoThe neighborhood during the 19th-century has a shipping history which spawned the   period immigrant bar theme. Discovering a building that at one time was the most important shipping company of Latin America, was an inspiration. Apparently the man who built it intended it to be the tallest tower at that time, wanting it elevated to watch his boats entering and exiting the Plata River. The river port in Buenos Aires was the main entry point of the immigrant boats arriving from the Atlantic.

The menu consists of five sections of classic cocktails enhanced by the founders’ personal signature. The sections are Spain, Italy, France, England, and Poland. There’s also a sixth section in the menu with criollo cocktails, where they mix selected products that reflect Argentina today. This approach incorporates the dining menu as well, using an old ‘parrilla’ grill over firewood to mix distinctive Spanish, English and Italian cuisine.

Cool, chic and clever!

The bar hours:
– Monday to Friday: from 7 pm to 2 am (last call 1:30)
– Thursday: 7 pm to 3 am (last call 2:30)
– Friday: 7 pm to 4 am (last call 3:30)
– Saturday: 8 pm to 4 am (last call 3:30)
– Sunday: 8pm to 1 am (last call 12:30)
– Holidays: open at 8 pm

The flower and wine shop:
– Open every day except holidays from 10am at end of bar
– open Saturdays from 11 am
– Sundays closed

Arroyo 872, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Bar photo by Floreria Atlantico