Back to Bangkok!

Thailand’s capital city draws an estimated 45 million tourists yearly and several travel publications have deemed it one of the world’s best cities. It’s easy to see why travelers would gravitate here, with its colorful patchwork of Buddhist temples and ultra-modern hotels, gleaming temples and three-wheeled tuk-tuks.

Temple Offerings at Jim Thompson House and Garden[/caption]

Peak season is between November and March when tourism is particularly high. The months of March, April and May are the hottest. December to February: regarded as the ‘cold months’, the perfect time to explore Bangkok on foot. Visitors looking to participate in Bangkok’s festival season should visit from November through May.

[ The Temple of Dawn, Bangkok

My two visits in December coincided with a heatwave, one from a cold northern California winter shouldn’t complain, but 95 degrees combined with 95% humidity was challenging. Modify touring, visit Temples and shrines as soon as they open and add a long tail boat for a canal tour in the afternoon and sip gallons of freshly juiced pomegranates!

A long list of tours, besides the city Temple tours, Wat Pho, the glimmering golden reclining Buddha is breathtaking. Chinatown night tour with sidewalk snacking from street vendors – yes, I did this! My first evening out, my guide took me to a small hillside bar with a stunning illuminated view of the Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. An easy walk down the hill through the Pak Klong Talat market, one of Bangkok’s largest, liveliest and loveliest markets. A maze of wholesale and retail vendors selling flowers, vegetables, fruits, Pak Klong is truly a delight for the senses. Nighttime doesn’t limit activity, Bangkok never sleeps, in my case a behind the scene look at the flower vendors preparing for a National Holiday, florists were creating dozens and dozens of orange marigold wreaths to be laid on local altars. My favorite is the small jasmine bracelets, enchanting fragrant adornment for your pillow!

Wat Pho, Bangkok

 

[ Flower Market Bangkok

Bangkok is overflowing with ancient markets, easily reached by the long tail ferry boats – narrow down your choices and definitely include a few of the floating markets outside of the city. I love the vibrant market scene – similar to the souks of Marrakech, in that the markets are in small cavernous buildings, narrow foot traffic is interrupted by small scooters, workers dragging transport carts, a vibrant sea of activity. Booths and small permanent shops offering strange, sometimes useful, sometimes not so useful items. Clay handicrafts, wooden furniture, ceramic ware, local artists host small studios. 

Tha Kha floating market

Start in early morning to visit the local floating markets and the Mae Klong market where the train rolls through, vendors quickly move their tarps of fresh vegetables to allow the train to pass. Minutes later, they’ve unrolled their tarps of vegetables and the market continues. Saturday is a popular local day for the floating markets and less touristy. Dawn to dusk floating market tour at Tha Kha floating market, is one of the most authentic markets in Bangkok. Observe an age-old way of living, ancient ladies in their wooden rowboats selling meals, drinks, household objects, vegetable and fruit from their gardens. A long tail boat ride here offers a quiet glimpse of Thai living, their somewhat dated wooden homes along the river bank interrupted by deep green fields and local farms. My knowledgeable guide picked up greens from the rowboat ladies and we took to a local restaurant to enjoy with massive prawns – the restaurant was happy to steam the just picked greens.

Jim Thompson House, the Bangkok based American businessman who is still missing since 1967, is honored by the firm still running his silk business in maintaining his unique house and beautiful gardens. Thompson pieced together his small estate from six traditional Thai teak wood houses in order to house his growing collection of Southeast Asian art. A beautiful representation of authentic Thai design and a stunning inspiring garden set along the banks of the river. 
  Jim Thompson Home and Garden

 Jim Thompson Home and Garden

[ Amulet Market, Bangkok

One of my goals was to visit the amulet market, a rewarding afternoon combined with visiting a few Thai temples and hidden neighborhoods. My last day in Bangkok was spent at the amulet market, a mini sacred day outing. After my 10 days in Bhutan absorbing Buddhist culture this was the perfect end to my three-week Asia exploration. City tour of the spiritual and mystic side of Bangkok, with a focus on religious shrines, spiritual art and local worship ceremonies.  Talismans, some prized by collectors are sorted by type, vintage and provenance. Religious charms and traditional medicine can be discovered in one of Bangkok’s oldest markets, you may be bumping elbows with monks as well as men in dangerous occupations, looking for an amulet to ward off danger or to ensure long life. Bargaining is expected!

Visiting the Amulet Markets, Giant Swing, Wat Suthat, and the historic Bang Luang Mosque. One can learn a great deal about Thailand, its belief system, and the life of everyday Thais by looking beneath the surface of the city, in the spirit shrines, amulet markets, tattoo houses, and other symbols that connect the people and their faiths. From Chinese shrines to Brahmin deities, picturesque mosques and talismans galore, multi-faith Thailand offers fascinating windows into the diverse beliefs of the people.

Dining and Hotels to come, something intriguing for all tastes. Bangkok is overflowing with Michelin restaurants and authentic street food stalls – an exciting gamut of dining experiences.. 

Street Scenes Bangkok

Departure Bangkok and Bhutan

Plotting my Bangkok expeditions – A country, steeped in legends and myths, a storied history of olden kingdoms and national icons. If you haven’t visited, the Bangkok buzz is unlike any other city in the world. Unrelenting traffic can be avoided by utilizing the long tail boats on the quiet Chao Phraya River and around the klongs (canals). The distinctive boats are sometimes compared to the ‘gondolas’ of the south.  The name Bangkok, is according to one interpretation, derived from a name that dates to the time before the city was built – the village or district (bang) of wild plums (makok). The Thai call their capital Krung Thep. Bangkok became the capital of Siam (as Thailand was previously known) in 1782, when General Chao Phraya Chakkri, the founder of the ruling Chakkri dynasty, assumed the throne as Rama I and moved the court from the west to the east bank of the Chao Phraya River

An arrival to BKK can be combined with the captivating countries of Southeast Asia: Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Vietnam and Bhutan. In my case, pre-12-day excursion to all of the Aman properties in the kingdom of Bhutan. Aman Resorts has five lodges throughout the country, situated in unsurpassed locations in Bhutan and can offer Journeys of any duration with emphasis on 8, 10 and 12 days. Amankora, as the lodges are named are luxurious lodge resorts amidst glacial valleys, forests. A comfortable circuit for an Amanjunkie! Devoid of crowds and the trappings of tourism, the kingdom of Bhutan is unlike anywhere else on earth. Traipsing between these five lodges will provide the best insights into Bhutanese life and traditions. Become a scholar of the Buddhist kingdom at the resorts, amid Bhutan’s natural splendor and rich ancient heritage.

Your Travel Lesson is to understand how and why the Bhutanese prefer Happiness over Wealth.

Follow along on my upcoming Bangkok Journeys. Early morning arrival at The Siam, the best of the best!  http://www.thesiamhotel.com/ Many of our clients have enjoyed this urban sanctuary. A stunning luxury hotel replete with exquisite art and antiques and set amidst 3 acres of lush gardens on the Chao Phraya River, adjoining Bangkok’s must-see historical and cultural attractions. The River winds its way from the northern edge of Bangkok to the city’s southern port, where it flows to the gulf of Thailand. The banks of the river host the city’s best hotels, prime riverfront real estate.

Ease into the bustling vibrant city after enjoying a decadent treatment at the Opium Spa and tasty lunch, ready to explore this pulsating city.  One advantage of staying at The Siam is a pier and a private hotel boat and long tail boats at your doorstep! Besides unique suites, The Siam has several cottages on property. Hand crafted furnishings envelope you in these specialized Villas. Move beyond the cliché for a truly unique Bangkok experience in Connie’s Cottage, a century-old traditional Thai teak house (with a storied history) that has been transformed into a luxurious Pool Villa. An oasis within a Sanctuary. Floating in your private pool, fringed with greenery, the only thing missing from this hidden oasis is a camel. Step up from the courtyard onto a sheltered terrace and relax overlooking The Siam’s infinity pool and the tranquil Chao Phraya River beyond.

Prepared for an early afternoon introduction to the city: walkers on, camera ready. A stroll through Pak Khlong Talat Market, one of Bangkok’s largest, liveliest and loveliest markets. A veritable maze of wholesale and retail vendors selling flowers, vegetables, fruits, and casual lunch food, Pak Klong is truly a delight for the senses, the market is open 24 hours a day – a delightful introduction to the city.

Moving onward to discover the sophisticated flavors of Bangkok’s 200-year old community in vibrant Chinatown, rich with Thai-Chinese tradition and delicious food. There is also a dazzling array of shops and stands selling gold, computer parts, antiques, textiles, stationery-almost anything can be found here, right alongside a stunning variety of hot food and produce. I’m excited about enjoying a private food tour through Bangkok’s lively Chinatown, otherwise known as Yaowarat, one of the world’s most renowned street food destinations and the local favorite dining district.

Night falls, the time lag may creep in and I will mosey back to The Siam for a nightcap at Chon Thai Restaurant.

My first full day of touring will begin at the stunning Grand Palace, the residence of the noteworthy Emerald Buddha. Next, I’ll head over to Wat Pho for a glimpse of a giant reclining Buddha. Get on a boat and cross to the quaint Kudajeen neighborhood, a community of mixed religions and cultures. Take a late afternoon stroll around Lhong 1919, a riverside street of reclaimed Sino-Thai historical warehouses and an ancient temple, now housing boutiques and restaurants. Time permitting, I may enjoy a Muay Thai (traditional boxing) demonstration at one of Bangkok’s foremost gyms

Wake up to breakfast at Café Cha within the hotel. Off to explore again, easing into the morning on a leisurely private canal tour, this is why Bangkok was once referred to as the Venice of the East. Long tail boat travel provides a sense of tranquility drifting past enchanting wooden homes on stilts, floating kitchens, Buddhist temples, and small family businesses.

We will stop to see the traditional art of puppetry, an art form vanishing from Thailand’s cultural scene, I feel lucky to catch a glimpse of this historic theatre. Thai puppetry, known as hun lakhon lek, is an ancient art form similar to Japanese buruku puppetry. Each puppet is usually under 3 feet long and is controlled by three people with a rope and pulley system, which help make the puppet appear gracefully moving across the stage. The shows are usually accompanied by music and a narrator who shares a story derived from the Thai version of the Hindu Ramayana.

Stop to visit the impressive Wat Arun, a poetic name meaning the Temple of Dawn. At the end of the klong tour, view the gilded royal barges, ornate ships exemplifying Thai art and craftsmanship.

Also visiting the famed Jim Thompson House, we can organize a private tour here – a garden enclosed compound on the bank of the Saen Saeb Canal, it might go unnoticed had it not been for the legacy that the mysterious missing American, Jim Thompson left behind.  His discharge from the US Army and his architecture background led him to Bangkok where he became a renowned collector of South Eastern art, assembling a massive collection while reviving the languishing Thai silk industry. He spent 30 years introducing Thai silk, The Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company to the top fashion houses and catwalks in Paris London, New York and Milan. At the pinnacle of his success, with plans to build a new home based on traditional wood Thai houses, showcasing his incongruous collections of antiques, he mysteriously vanished into the Malaysian jungle on a hike in the 1960’s – leaving a historic legacy. Fortunate for travelers, his home has survived and is treated as a museum.

Next, it’s off to explore some of Bangkok’s more local markets. Including Klong Toey Fresh Market and Klongsan Market. These are less visited by tourists and have a very local feel.

If you are an Anthony Bourdain fan, you have probably seen him indulge in decadent delicacies, including goat brains at Gaggan – Asia’s number one restaurant, look for my photo Journey online of the 25 courses! I will explore Bangkok pre-Bhutan and again for a few days after my trek through the wonderland that is Bhutan.

Exploring Bhutan over 12 days at Amankora resorts, the breathtaking arrival with views of the Himalayan peaks as you land into Paro is one of the most spectacular in the world. The name Amankora is derived from aman, the Sanskrit word for peace, and kora, meaning circular pilgrimage in Dzongkha.

Devoid of crowds and the trappings of tourism, Bhutan is unlike anywhere on Earth – and Amankora offers unprecedented access to its breathtaking beauty. Bhutan is still only slowly opening up to tourism, yet Amankora has been on the ground here for 15 years, cultivating a caring passionate team whose experience is unrivalled in the Buddhist Kingdom. Guided excursions through the valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Phobjikha and Bumthang offer the chance to experience a remote kingdom, with vast forests, dramatic inclines and 7,000-meter peaks.

Amankora, Bhutan - Punakha Dzong

Located in the Eastern Himalayas, it is bordered by Tibet Autonomous Region of China in the North, India and Tibet. The independence of Bhutan has endured for centuries and it has never been colonized in its history. Situated on the ancient Silk Road between Tibet, the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia, the Bhutanese state developed a distinct national identity based on Buddhism. The country’s landscape ranges from lush subtropical plains in the south to the sub-alpine Himalayan mountains in the north, where there are peaks in excess of 7,000 meters.

The government is a parliamentary democracy; the head of state is the King of Bhutan, known as the “Dragon King”.

Bhutan is also notable for pioneering the concept of gross national happiness.Image result for aman bhutan