Tribal Off the Grid Epic Adventures

Punch Magazine once profiled my firm in their magazine: Going Above and Abroad. The editor concluded the piece with this: If there are cannibals, she is going to visit!

As time passes, a mishmash of age, pandemic lockdown, wisdom and breaking body parts has me noodling a long list of must go to travel locations: Cannibals would be on the list, my National Geographic Lindblad Expedition to the Marquesas was an epic adventure, it was pre-knee replacement which potentially downed me from days of canoe paddling a leafy river to see the Mudmen of Papua New Guinea, bouncing into a Zodiac and hiking to Tigers Nest in Bhutan!

Relish a few of the adventures on the top of my list with one of our extreme adventure teams.

This 14-day adventure itinerary covers the Highlands and remote areas of the Upper Sepik. You’ll have the chance to meet the legendary Mudmen, observing their rituals, and trek up the country’s highest peak. A four-day canoe adventure will take you past the incredible sights and sounds of villages and forests that line the country’s longest river, the mighty Sepik River. A Sepik canoe adventure includes spending several nights in humble abodes in local village. Finish off with some beach time in the white sands of Louisia.

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The Sepik River occupies a special place in Papua New Guinea. It is probably the most known region in the country. The people along the river depend heavily on it for transportation, water and food.

Mudmen

Crocodile eggs are a precious commodity together with crocodile skins, highly praised internationally for their quality. The tribes living along the Sepik River are well known for their impressive, intricately carved spirit houses with soaring gabled roofs called haus tambaran now used to debate village matters. The Sepik people are also world-renowned for their elaborate wood carvings, including shields, masks, canoes with crocodile-head prows, suspension hooks for food, spirit house posts, orators’ stools, ceremonial hooks and drums known as garamut. The carvers are greatly respected by their tribes.

I’m certain if you sip coffee at your local cafe, none of the locals will ever provide as much intrigue as these natives.

Highlights: Meet the legendary Asaro mudmen and learn about their fascinating history; Trek the country’s highest peak, all the way to its Base Camp; enjoy a languid four-day Sepik canoeing adventure; relax on the pristine beaches of Louisia; get well-acquainted with Louisia on a full-day tour, with activities that include the local Tapioca dance, visits to local villages, and a boat trip to nearby islands. Bed down for the night at Kiriwina Lodge.

Intrepid travelers send dates! My knee replacement is now at ‘intrepid’ level!

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Additional Papua New Guinea – Goroka Festival This 14-day itinerary, built around its main highlight, the Goroka Cultural Show, takes you deep into the culture of Papua New Guinea. You’ll be entertained by all kinds of varied traditional local dances put on by different tribes decked out in vibrant ancestral dress, while also meeting with local chieftains, and local villagers who will welcome you with grand smiles. You’ll arrive a visitor to Papua New Guinea, and leave a friend.

Highlights: Exclusive meetings with village Chiefs; get a front-row seat to one of the country’s most entertaining festivals; watch traditional village life as you drift by along the river in a wooden canoe; sip fresh, delicious Goroka coffee.

Enticed? There’s more! Can I tell you about the Gulf Mask Festival in PNG?
Location: The Gulf Mask Festival is held in the Gulf Province located on the southern coast of Papua New Guinea, in a small village of Toare.

While Gulf isn’t an entirely isolated province, it’s a remote region located on the southern coast of Papua New Guinea. Barely served by roads, river and sea remain the main means of transportation. But even with the sea access, small boats stay ashore for about half a year. The southeast trade winds blowing directly into the Gulf bring heavy rains, make the sea rough and the journey dangerous. This remoteness has contributed to the uniqueness of the Gulf culture.

Toare village, with its blue sea and white sandy beach, is an idyllic location. Listen for the growing rhythmic drum beating a signal to start. Proudly wearing the best of their exquisite traditional attire and elaborate masks, the dancers entertain in an assembled group.

Papuans in the Yahukimo Regency Photo attributed to Frans Huby

In PNG, each tribe has its own distinctive attire and ornaments, or bilas. The Huli are known for the wigs made from their own hair. Large round hats made of moss, plants and hair are the identity of people from the Enga province. The Western Highlanders take pride in towering feathered headgear and vivid colors of the body paint. The Chimbus are recognized by giant headdresses made of bird of paradise feathers, an ornithologist’s nightmare. The Elema, the coastal people of the Gulf province, have the trademark too, their intricate masks.

With its stylized facial features, the Gulf masks show diversity in style, shape, colors and size. Ornate, large, tall or narrow, the masks are made of natural materials. Bark cloth, known as tapa, is stretched over a split-cane frame, sewn with plant fibre and painted with natural pigments. Although large, the masks are light-weighted allowing the men to wear them for long hours. It’s a mid-day and the sun is restless. And so are the masked men, who don’t stop their frenzy dancing on the beach, with their eyes staring through masks’ tiny gaps. It feels ancient and tribal. Not so long after, the men representing characters from local legends make the public giggle and laugh with their blunders and silly gestures.

Besides the masks and clay, many men only wear bark loincloth and arse gras, a bunch of leaves stuck into a belt to cover the backside. The women aren’t more dressed up either. Bare-breasted, with big kina shells dangling on their chests and wearing colorful grass skirts decorated with small shells, they are swinging their hips to the beats of kundu, PNG traditional drums. Made from sago palms, the grass skirts are the object of pride of local women.

Websters definesIntrepid:fearless, unafraid, undaunted, unflinching, unshrinking, bold, daring, gallant, audacious, adventurous, heroic, dynamic, spirited, indomitable; brave, courageous, valiant, valorous, stouthearted, stalwart, plucky, doughty; informal gutsy, gutty, spunky, ballsy.

Such an interesting captivating Journey ! Postcards soon, I hope!

Reasons to visit – Best of Madrid

Last fall, after I meandered the medinas of Fez and Marrakech, the intricate maze of the souks, the ancient cities, and the deserts of Morocco, I moved on to Europe’s sunniest capital city, Madrid. A first peek for me I will return for the full Spain architecture and gastronomic tour. There’s a spicy unique rhythm to life in Spain. From the staccato of the fiery flamenco dancers, animated chatter over tapas and rioja, bustling boulevards and cobblestone walkways, the excitement is palpable in Madrid.

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Madrid

Endless cultural and culinary options, Madrid, Spain’s central capital, is a city of elegant boulevards and expansive, manicured parks such as the Buen Retiro. There’s far more to this vibrant city than tapas, bull fighting and flamenco although you will find all three here. It’s renowned for its rich cache of European art, including the Prado Museum’s works by Goya, Velázquez and other Spanish masters. The heart of old Hapsburg Madrid is the portico-lined Plaza Mayor, and nearby is the baroque Royal Palace and Armory, displaying historic weaponry. 

Goya at Prado Museum, Madrid

Over eighty museums and more than two thousand monuments -both historic and artistic, contribute to the city’s richness, Madrid’s cultural legacy offers visitors an incomparable tour: El Paseo del Arte, an Art Walk which includes the Prado Museum, the Reina Sofía National Museum and Art Centre, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and, more recently, CaixaForum.

I spent several days wandering with our expert guide, she a foodie and art major, with a deep love of her city.

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Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral

Art lovers will delight in Madrid’s ‘Golden Triangle of Art’, which comprises three world-renowned galleries, including the famed Prado Museum. Admire some of Europe’s finest art before wandering through the opulent chambers and salons of Madrid’s magnificent Royal Palace. Built in the 18th century, this lavish royal residence is one of the largest palaces in Europe, and with 2,800 rooms, visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to exploring the elegant interior.

Museums Museo Reina Sofia and Museo del Prado are an absolute must for art lovers. The Reina Sofia for contemporary art (and Museo del Prado for the classics. Museo Nacional del Prado is Spain’s main national art museum. Along with the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and the Museo Reina Sofía, the Prado forms Madrid’s Golden Triangle of Art. 

Markets and Shops.  Madrid is a shopper’s heaven, the El Rastro Sunday market is a social gathering place for madrileños. Locals come every Sunday to shop, stroll, and grab a bite at the generations-old tapas bars that dot the neighborhood.

Culinary Scene. Any trip to Madrid could become food focused due to its diverse culinary scene. Mercado de San Miguel opened as a wholesale food market more than 100 years ago. Nowadays, it’s the place to sample everything from Iberian ham to fresh fish and tapas from more than 20 stands serving up authentic Spanish food.

Spend a day outside the hustle and bustle of Madrid in the enchanting city of Toledo. This ancient city is renowned for its cultural heritage – this was where Christian, Jewish and Muslim cultures peacefully coexisted in the Middle Ages. Situated on a hilltop overlooking the Tagus River, Toledo offers wonderfully dramatic views across the gorge below. Discover the history behind this multi-cultural city and admire the works of controversial artist El Greco, who once lived within the city walls.

Sobrino de Botin. For a truly memorable meal, head to Sobrino de Botin, the official oldest restaurant in the world and a favorite of authors Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Sobrino de Botin opened its doors in 1725 and continues to base its dishes on its original recipes. Among those recipes? The roast suckling pig that earned a mention in Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”. Casa Botín, founded in 1725, is the oldest restaurant in the world according to the Guinness Book of Records and a benchmark of Madrid’s best traditional cuisine. Forbes magazine gave the House third place in the list of the world’s top 10 classic restaurants, together with its two specialties, the delicious suckling pig and lamb roasted in the Castilian style. Three and four times per week, shipments of the best Segovia suckling pigs and lambs arrive at the restaurant from the magical triangle for this meat: Sepúlveda-Aranda-Riaza. My guide and I spent a few leisurely hours here over a delightful Sunday afternoon. Highly Recommend!

We have an amazing team for touring and exclusive events. I’ve stayed at the best hotels and can recommend both five star properties depending on client needs!