Where to See Incredible Natural Beauty, Natives and Cannibals?

Papua New Guinea (PNG) is probably the most diverse yet least explored country in the Asia-Pacific region. This British Commonwealth country, which gained independence from Australia in 1975, was also once a German colony, and has long fascinated travelers and adventurers. By 2011 it had become the seventh fastest growing economy in the entire world, mainly due to its vast mining and natural resource industry. Isolated tribes often never see outsiders.

PNG has over 600 islands and more than 800 different cultural groups that have a wide range of dialects, art, music, dance, fashion and architecture. Over 95 percent of the almost 6 million people are Christians, though many combine this faith with their indigenous animism. Seashells were the official currency until 1933. PNG is less than a tenth of the size of Australia but has just as many species of animals. This is a place where the kangaroos live in trees and the marsupials are plentiful.

The Korowai, also called the Kolufo, live in southeastern Papua in the Indonesian provinces of South Papua and Highland Papua. Until the late 1970s, when anthropologists embarked on a study of the tribe, the Korowai were unaware of the existence of any peoples other than themselves, due to vast distances in their communities. Most of the Korowai clans live in tree houses on their isolated forested territory. The 2007 BBC documentary First Contact, presented by Mark Anstice, features footage from his 1999 encounter with members of the Korowai people, and describes how they were disturbed upon seeing a “white ghost”, whose presence indicated the end of the world was nigh. The Korowai have been reported to practice ritual cannibalism up to the present day. Anthropologists suspect that cannibalism is no longer practiced by the Korowai clans that have had frequent contact with outsider’s.  Recent reports suggest that certain clans have been coaxed into encouraging tourism by perpetuating the myth that cannibalism is still an active practice.

PNG is physically spectacular, with lush rainforests, flooded deltas, pristine highlands, thick jungles, active volcanoes and picturesque mountains, the highest peak is 14,793 feet.

Military historians will enjoy visiting various sites which saw fierce combat during World War II – especially around Rabaul. Destinations include Alotau, the Sing Sing festivals at Mount Hagan, Goroka, world-class diving in Madang, Simbai/Kaironk Valley, Ambunti, canoe trips on the Sepik River and the capital of Port Moresby.

I’ve wanted to visit these intriguing islands for decades, and it requires advance planning, which is not how I usually travel! Adventure arrives in a random email invitation, or I add on areas to business trips, but this year I have planned to go on a luxury ship expedition to Papua New Guinea, a 17-day Ponant expedition cruise aboard Le Jacques Cartier to explore the wonders and ancestral tribes of Papua New Guinea. Located below the waterline, the Blue Eye offers a unique experience: the opportunity to enjoy undersea views and the sounds of the marine world whilst sipping a cocktail! In brief, Le Jacques Cartier has 92 staterooms and suites; 2 restaurants; and carries up to 184 guests. The ship is considered a small luxury cruise ship.

I will board ship in Cairns and the Le Jacques Cartier will sail for Papua New Guinea, a fascinating land that is home to no fewer than 700 ethnic groups within a highly diverse yet mainly unexplored ecosystem. Sail to Alotau, in Milne Bay province, and discover a rich history shaped by pearl farmers, miners and missionaries.

I’m not a cruise type person, and our clients charter yachts, so I’ve only enjoyed a few cruise or expedition adventures. Exploring PNG by boat is the best path to truly explore most of this area. Ponant is a different way to cruise, their travel philosophy reinterprets cruising and introduces you to discover or rediscover iconic destinations. Ponant isn’t listed under many prestigious travel firms like A&K, however they are the ships offered and managed by many high-end companies for their cruise Journeys. I think I will love the experience. Although the concept of unpacking once and not schlepping around the huge bags I normally tote sounds delicious!

My Voyage: Your call at Tufi will be one of the highlights of your voyage. Dubbed the Scandinavia of the Tropics, you will undoubtedly fall under the charm of this picturesque region, with its deep ‘fjords’ known locally as ‘rias’, which were formed through volcanic activity. In this unique setting, local Papuan tribes will share their customs, beliefs and artwork with you.

You will then head north along the coast to Madang, nicknamed ‘the most beautiful city in the South Pacific’. Within this stunning province exists great geographical diversity and 170 different languages are spoken there.

In the village of Kopar, situated at the mouth of the Sepik River, you will be welcomed with cultural performances and witness life in a traditional village.

As you voyage across Western New Guinea you will experience Cenderawasih Bay, with an unforgettable opportunity to swim with whale sharks and in the spectacular Kitikiti Waterfall, surrounded by lush nature.

You will then sail to the heart of Triton Bay. Located within a protected marine environment in the middle of the Coral Triangle, where you will enjoy an unforgettable zodiac cruise through the spectacular rainforest-capped karst islands.

Before ending your cruise in Darwin, you will set the course for the Kei Islands, located in the Maluku Islands. These hidden gems surrounded by unbelievably blue water boast some of the most beautiful white-sand beaches in Indonesia.

The best time to visit Papua New Guinea is between May and October, when the weather is dry and most of the festivals are held.

Festivals Morobe Agricultural Show. October Hosted by the Morobe Provincial Agricultural Society in the city of Lae, this annual two-day event in Papua New Guinea shows off the surrounding province’s impressive culture diversity. Among the tribal dances and songs of this 50-year-old event, visitors will also find agricultural, livestock, educational and cultural exhibitions.

Crocodile Festival August. Every year in the East Sepik province of Papua New Guinea, a three-day event is held to celebrate everything crocodile. The stars of the show – the fresh and saltwater river crocodiles – are an important part of local heritage. This festival highlights their importance within the ecosystem and also promotes conservation.

Location East Sepik, Papua New Guinea. Enga Cultural Show August. For three days in August, Wabag Town in the Highlands region of Papua New Guinea stages a sensational meeting for the people of Enga, showcasing all their cultural variants in spectacular fashion. The people of this province are unique in that they can all speak the same language, making them the largest linguistic group in the country.

Mask Festival July. This three-day festival held in Rabaul showcases Papua New Guinea’s instantly recognizable mask culture. Groups from across the region display their masks, provide musical performances and host fire dances. Organized by the Cultural Commission there really is no better place to see such a wealth of masks on live display.

5th Melanesian Festival. June-July. The 5th Melanesian Festival invites cultural groups from across the South Pacific to visit Papua New Guinea and participate in this vibrant two-week cultural and art exhibition. Port Moresby hosts the major events, with Kokopo, Alotau, Wewak and Mt. Hagen also joining in the fun with a series of performances and shows.

Kenu & Kundu Festival November. Visitors will find the Kenu and Kundu Festival along the beautiful bay in the equally stunning town of Alotau, Milne Bay Province. As both drums and canoes play a significant role in the lives of locals here, expect to see them in rich supply during this 3-day cultural show. There’s also a host of arts and crafts, music and plays.

Goroka Festival, September. The Goroka Festival is an important date for many in the Eastern Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea. Stretching back over 50 years, this weekend show is a well-known gathering showcasing as many as 100 different tribes, all of whom sing, dance and parade in front of each other, as well as the many onlooking international guests.

My PNG Adventure.

Santa Fe In My Boots, Walking the Streets Fantastic Fall

Late summer, early fall is my favorite time of year to visit Santa Fe. Caution in going too late in October as the temperatures can drastically drop 20 degrees overnight and generate lightening boosted thunderstorms with buckets of rain!

Autumn in Santa

I’ve visited during the annual Indian Market and Spanish Market which offer hundreds of gallery openings, art shows and related events on both dates. Avoid the early October International Hot Air Balloon Festival and you will be rewarded with robin egg blue skies, huge puffy white clouds and endless landscapes of exploding gold Chamisa shrubs, cottonwood trees and golden aspens…just majestic, no camera filters needed!

Not one, but two delightful museums invite you to experience an authentic array of art culture and nature both on a hill overlooking the mountains. The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art. And these are merely two of the many marvelous museums in Santa Fe, downtown museums and galleries are enormously easy to navigate on foot.

See exclusive post on Georgia O’Keeffe activities, day trips to Abiquiu.

Fall Offerings. Enjoy the thrill and passion of Flamenco dancing during holiday season in an intimate dinner theater setting. This special Spanish cabaret at Entreflameno runs nightly November 29, 2024 – January 4, 2025.

Entreflamenco is a nonprofit organization with cultural and educational purpose. The dance company was created and founded by Antonio Granjero in 1998 in Madrid, Spain, the company traveled throughout the Iberian Peninsula presented in places such as the Palau de la Musica de Barcelona, Festival de Verano de la Communidad de Madrid and Ciclos Culturales de Alcala de Henares (Madrid).The company has traveled throughout the United States performing nearly 100 performances year at EL FLAMENCO DE SANTA FE with four distinct performance seasons while creating a new generation of youth dancers for the future of flamenco in Santa Fe.

Take in a Show at the Lensic or The Santa Fe Opera. In the heart of summer experience Santa Fe Opera’s world-renowned performances or find some of the world’s most exciting performers at the Lensic, in their grand Pueblo Deco style structure on West San Francisco Street.

Shop From the historic Plaza to the oldest church in the United States to the Palace of the Governors, downtown Santa Fe is full of stories and classic architecture. The historic Santa Fe Plaza, and surrounding avenues offer something for everyone. 

Three shops on the Plaza owned by same family, you may not want to leave – and yes, they will stash your bags while you try on the gorgeous designer clothing. Workshop, Wild Life and Santa Fe Dry Goods. Wild Life has a stunning curated collection of home goods including Vessels of the Borana Peoples– I collect African art, but the food storage containers from Southern Ethiopia are unlike any I’ve ever seen. Unique designer clothing, take your breath away designers with a few hold your breathe price tags, but gorgeous!

Cicada Collection If you wear Black or White – you will be very happy here!

Savory Spice Shop- I buy spices wherever I go for myself for Benjamin and friends who love to cook. In cellophane packages or jars and they ship overnight, amazing service! Local indigenous spice packets and an array of international blends.

Secret & Sons. The Seret family who own Inn of Five Graces also own this shop. I’m spellbound in this exotic souk emporium, transported across the world with their impeccable taste in carpets, hand painted furniture, jewelry, Susanis from Afghanistan.  You don’t need a passport to shop here! 

Mediterrania Antiques, furniture, a significant collection of Uriarte Talavera  pottery, and they are only 2 doors away from Seret & Sons. 

 Santa Fe Vintage – Have our concierge book you an appointment at this unparalleled collection of vintage Levi’s, hats, and jackets. This is where the in the know glam stars shop for their looks!

Santa Fe Hat Company For the best selection of hats in the Southwest. A legend since 1976, offering custom, artisan and high-end brands.

Lucchese Bootmaker  If you have one more shopping stop in you, Lucchese boots is a short walk and offers the best you’re going to find.

4Kinship  This Navajo-owned (Diné) boutique for indigenous pieces, colorful up-cycled fashion, vintage denim, along with blankets courtesy and modern silver-turquoise jewelry.

Cielo Handcrafted, a few doors down you can shop local New Mexico and Latin America wares; colorful pillows handmade from Cusco, espresso mugs planters and more.

Stroll Canyon Road Art Galleries – filled with amazing art and galleries, including Morning Star. Many of the galleries on Canyon Road have established reputations with major art collectors, major art fairs, and museums throughout the country. With more than 80 galleries, studios, and designers in the Canyon Road Arts District you’ll find art that is contemporary, abstract, modern, expressionistic, digital, figurative, photorealistic, traditional, western and Native American.

Santa Fe Blue Gate Gallery represents this artist, whose work I saw at Bishops Lodge. Fritz Scholder, Hollywood Indian.

Fritz Scholder Hollywood Indian #2 Casterline|Goodman Gallery

DINING Sazon Originally from Mexico City, Chef Fernando Olea has been enthralling diners in Santa Fe since 1991 with his unique interpretation of contemporary and traditional Mexican dishes.

315 Bistro Chef-owned and operated for nearly three decades, 315 is dedicated to serving both modern and contemporary French cuisine inspired by seasonal local ingredients.

La Boca Tapas and Spanish small plates are paired with Mediterranean & South American wines at this refined venue. Santa Fe owes a significant portion of its modern identity to Spanish influences, from architecture to cuisine. Nowhere is this cookery celebrated more keenly than the intimate La Boca, where Chef James Campbell Caruso delivers small plates that transport diners to the streets of Cadiz. Campbell Caruso, who has received multiple James Beard nominations, also imports Spanish sherries and wines to pair with small plates such as turmeric-yogurt grilled chicken thigh and chicharrones de Andaluz laced with harissa. If you’re not in a hurry, paellas in classic and vegetable versions 

The Compound One of my favorite restaurants! Designed by O’Keeffe’s close friend, Alexander Girard, in the heart of the historic Canyon Road arts district and near O’Keeffe’s Santa Fe residence.

Geronimo Fine dining in a 1756 adobe home. Warm and inviting, the elegant “Borrego House” was built by Geronimo Lopez in 1756.  Thick adobe walls, kiva fireplaces and wood beams surround. Geronimo is the recipient of the AAA Four Diamond and Mobil/Forbes 4 Star Awards.  Executive Chef Sllin Cruz creates the “Global Eclectic” menu that changes seasonally. The liveliest seat in the house is on terrace on summer evenings when Canyon Road gallery gazers stroll by.

The Shed Creative New Mexican Cooking on the Santa Fe Plaza. Family owned & operated since 1953. Has won the renowned James Beard Award and is a local favorite.

EscondidoSF Chef Fernando Ruiz, three-time Food Network Champion.

Tucked into the inky blue mountains of Northern New Mexico, a week in the high desert Santa Fe, might not be long enough to enjoy all this town has to offer. The oldest state Capital in the United States, inhabited since 1607, by members of Native American pueblos. The city is brimming with creatives, eccentrics and solitude seekers. City Map 2025 published for locals and visitors.

Highly Recommend, Santa Fe