Salta in the Lerma Valley is named Salta la Linda, translated the beautiful, is one of the most beautiful cities in Argentina, it is a popular destination due to the Colonial architecture and the amazing natural scenery of the western landscape. In the 1400’s the Incas traveled down this ancient road to conquer the southern tribal people. By the mid-1500s, the Royal Road became a well-established trade route; you can see the remains of pre- Hispanic and colonial cultures in the villages and lifestyles of the people as well as in the ruins of 17th century Jesuit churches. The landscapes are as abundantly diverse, from 22,000 foot-high Andean peaks, deserts and deep gorges known as quebradas and humid subtropical jungles. Amazing scenery, which rivals our Grand Canyon – and it, stretches for hours and hours through beautiful canyons and valleys. The climate year around is quite agreeable.

Of note in the Plaza 9 de Julio, is the neoclassical Iglesia Cathedral, built in 1882. The plaza is one of the most maintained town squares in the country; the square is filled with greenery, fountains and benches. Bordering the perimeter by elegant recovas, a perfect spot for an afternoon of people watching and sipping an afternoon cafe cortado.

In Salta you will see the famous gauchos; driving through the countryside, hundreds of roadside shrines to Gaucho Gil are visible for miles, the red flags waving in the wind. Gaucho Antonio Gil or El Gauchito who lived in the 19th century, deserted the Army; while evading capture, he robbed the rich and shared with the poor. Eventually he was captured and strung up by his feet in order to be beheaded. Gaucho Gil prophesied to his executioner: “When you return home you’ll discover that I have actually been pardoned and you’ll find your son gravely ill”. He pleaded to be properly buried, which was unusual in those days for a hoodlum, in exchange for which he would assure the recovery of the executioner’s mortally ill son. But his pleas didn’t work and Gaucho Gil was beheaded. When the executioner came home he found both prophecies to be true, he hastened to return to execution place, in order to properly bury Gaucho Gil. Soon the executioner’s son recovered – a miracle had occurred and a legend was born. Word spread and the shrines were built and are still maintained; gifts are left at the roadside shrines in an offering of devotion and gratitude. The red scarves and flags characteristically waving in the breeze are thought to represent Gaucho Gil’s neck scarf soaked in his blood. Gauchos are still prevalent in the pampas, herding cattle and employed by Estancias. In Salta, a Gaucho is traditionally dressed in a bright red cape, high black boots and loose fitting black trousers, belted with a piece of cloth known as a tirador. Their large knife hangs from the trousers, gaucho attire is topped off with a traditional leather cowboy hat. They roam the countryside on horseback and I saw several Gauchos in the streets of Salta as well; mystery still travels with the gauchos. Similar to the lore of Western cowboys, gaucho’s enjoy a reputation as silent and strong, honest and hard working; however, certainly when provoked, capable of fierceness. Classic Gaucho’s more likely benefit from romantic notions and idyllic prose than our Western cowboys, their myth and history is celebrated yearly and honored through the countryside.

Small boutique hotels are near the town square; I particularly like Bodega Legado Mitico, in the historic quarter. An old mansion which once belonged to a patrician Saltenean family; it has been carefully restored and renovated with 11 lovely rooms. The room décor is a pleasing mix of classical and modern – every object, piece of furniture and painting has been chosen carefully for its cultural significance. Large comfy library for afternoon cocktails, a delightful poplar lined patio, and many of the rooms have balconies, Conde Nast added it to their 2009 Hot List – for many good reasons – Mitico is lovely, elegant and charming!

One special event in Salta is the yearly celebration of the Virgin Mary on September 15. La Fiesta del Señor y la Virgen del Milagro is the biggest religious festival in the North of Argentina. Over 500,000 Pilgrims come from all over the Northwest of Argentina, many walking for days to get to Salta to pay homage to the images of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The legend surviving 400 years, honors Mary as the locals prayed to her to protect them from an earthquake, she saved the city of Salta and the event is commemorated every year in an outpouring of amazing faith and elaborate processions. Even if you are not Catholic, it is an impressive site to witness the peregrino’s filling the beautiful church for several days of celebration. The midnight Mass is in Spanish, is standing room only among 500,000 worshipers, truly an amazing celebration.

Getting here can be a challenge, as Colome Estancia and Bodega is perched at 7500 feet in the Andes. A 5 hour car journey on a mostly one lane winding dirt road is spectacular and rewarding, cresting at 12,000 feet, the vistas are unlike no other.

There are two routes from Salta, each about the same drive time, although the scenery could not be more different. Soaring peaks, wide valleys, or enormous windswept volcanic rocks, which make the Grand Canyon, seem ordinary! If you have the time and enjoy driving, I would recommend renting a 4-wheel drive or have one of my drivers deliver you and enjoy the spectacular scenery. Helicopter & small plane into the valley is also easily organized.

The native population who were excellent stewards of the land farmed Colome for thousands of years. The original Indio language in the Calchaqui Valley was “Kakan”; but at the end of the 15th century the Incas entered the valley. In the late 1500’s the Spanish conquistadors gifted the Incas with vines, the old Colome winery was founded in 1831, most likely by the Spanish governor of Salta. Three vineyards dating from this time still produce grapes, Colome is considered the oldest existing winery in Argentina, and some areas of the vineyards are the highest in the world.

Situated within the majestic backdrop of the valley and foothills of the Saltena Andes, Colome Estancia is an oasis of luxurious green, fields of lavender, native cactus, vineyards and forest. The setting could not be more impressive, the nine beautiful appointed rooms are accessed from a central courtyard and each room has an outward facing balcony overlooking stunning vistas. The organic food is served in the peaceful dining room dotted with marvelous art; sommelier Pedro Aquino is eager to share his knowledge of wine. Colome Malbec has become one of my favorite wines. There are numerous opportunities for hiking or exploring the mountains and valleys with regular guided tours and a well-posted set of routes for those wanting to go on their own.

Other amenities include a tennis court, putting green and bocce court. Mountain bikes, scenic trail riding on Peruvian Paso horses and shuttle transfer to local sites are always available. The scenic pool affords uninterrupted views of both valley and mountains; linger and read or just doze, I cannot imagine a more restful location, a week here would be oh so restorative and quite divine.

Bodega Colome has it’s own horse whisperer, Ernesto Gonzalez. I rode with my Gaucho, Ruben Belazquez, on two occasions, an afternoon ride and an early sunrise trek up and down very steep foothills, through the pampas, traversing streams and up a huge boulder on the gentle natured Peruvian Paso ponies- Ruben who doesn’t speak much English, watched carefully to ascertain my proficiency on these gentle horses- and pronounced me to be: es muy bueno! after I confidently made it up and down a few challenging cliffs – then I galloped past him upstream, magnificent morning! Even if you have never ridden a horse, this naturally gaited breed inspires confidence and makes riding marvelous fun!

The first museum entirely dedicated to James Turrell resides at Bodega Colome- a sunrise or sunset visit is an absolute essential experience. Lying on the floor for 45 minutes viewing the sunset in this extraordinary museum is worth the drive on the winding long road leading to paradise! Turrell manipulates light in many of his installations, challenging the viewer’s perception through light and space, creating illusions of shapes and objects. His Skyspace piece, Unseen Blue, an enclosed room with an aperture in the roof through which one can observe the sky above is thought provoking and if one is of a certain generation, produces memories of 60’s light shows, which were of course not created by a sunset- an amazing experience.

Gauchos are indeed a reality; Tango masters are in short supply and are mostly romantic notions in Buenos Aires- however, to my amazement in my first class row journeying from BSAS to SFO, I met a Tango master who lives in Hillsborough and in BSAS- sometimes we find what we are looking for right here at home.

But then we miss the experience of the journey.
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