Tag Archives: Puglia

La Fiermontina Urban Resort

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Lecce

My initial introduction to Puglia was the shining star Lecce, which is nestled in the middle of the Salentine Peninsula, surrounded by the brilliant sapphire blue Ionian and Adriatic Seas. Lecce is the perfect springboard to reach the picturesque hill towns and cliff clinging villages of all that is Puglia. Intricate Baroque architecture dates back to the early Roman Empire, the entire city is composed from one distinctive material Lecce stone or la Pietra Leccese. Soft porous sandstone that casts a slightly golden glow to the treasured intricately carved buildings in the historic center. Lecce is often referred to as the Florence of the South.

Courtesy of La Fiermontina

La Fiermontina lobby

Narrow cobblestone streets limit cars to the locals which adds charming allure to this very walkable city center. Imagine carriage wide streets flanked by brightly colored flower filled balconies, enormous wooden doors fitted with massive bronze lion head rappers. This is Lecce, you can explore for hours steps from your hotel. The hotel we recommend is the outstanding recently restored villa known as La Fiermontina Urban Resort.

They must have read my blog posts on my love of: The Arrival – the moment we sauntered upstairs to the art filled lobby, helmed by a woman in a gorgeous pink linen outfit – we were handed a frothy lemonade concoction, an instant heat soother! Later, not only did the owner meet us and make dinner reservations for us, she gave us a map with directions to the Atelier which designs the very chic employee linen outfits.

Essential to Lecce is at least a three-night stay at the architecturally stunning La Fiermontina. The 17th Century Palace is partially surrounded by ancient city walls, the modern rooms built of the beautiful local stone are restful and tastefully decorated with pieces from the owners amazing art collection. Parisian born brother and sister Giacomo Fiermonte and his sister Antonia, came upon the land and the original house while visiting Old Lecce. Originally Giacomo intended the site for a personal residence, the major restoration was accomplished with the Italian architect Antonio Annicchiarico to envision the restoration incorporating a portion of the 17th century villa into the new project.Courtesy of La Fiermontina

The slightly buffed arched star pinnacle ceilings in my Suite 7 reminded me of a cathedral. The high ceilings are found in almost all of the rooms and public spaces, wooden beams and vaulted stone is in abundance providing texture and a seamless elegant simplicity.

My beautiful terrace abutting an original Roman town wall overlooked the sculpture garden and provided a mesmerizing platform for stargazing. Antiques and family treasures are shared in the rooms and public spaces; this property is truly a labor of love and a nostalgic homage to their Pugliese heritage. The owners are frequently in residence, greeting guests, providing dining suggestions and in my case, the delightful Antonia joined us in the garden for an aperitivo. Personal and professional, truly a significant measure of familial pride in this endeavor.

An intimate setting with only 16 rooms and suites, La Fiermontina also offers a spa, garden setting dining and a very impressive modern art collection enhancing the public and private spaces. The collection is a tribute to the grandmother of the Fiermonte family, who was wooed and pursued by two artists. Antonia married a French sculptor and eventually left him for another artist, his best friend. The muse is in residence, inhabiting each and every corner of this gorgeous chic Palace.

The urban resort offers the only and most essential hotel pool in the ages old olive tree studded garden. Loungers are strategically placed beneath the canopy of the enormous twisted trees, truly a peaceful sanctuary on a typically sizzling summer afternoon; at night, the massive cubist Fernand Léger sculptures are punctuation points to the gnarled olive trees, natures sculptures.

The historic center of Lecce is dotted with small artisan shops, traditional trattorias and ristorante’s serving Salento meals and local wine. Corner cafes dot the narrow streets, gelato shops tempt; opera season fills the winter months and the Roman amphitheater hosts concerts and recitals. Lecce is oozing with historic architecture and artistic charm; delicious dining with cuisine from the sea and the farm, the foodie movement is a natural occurrence in the area encompassing Puglia.

Highly recommend La Fiermontina and an adventure in Lecce.

I’m pining to return and walk the narrow winding streets again and again and sit below the whispering olive trees at La Fiermontina.

 

 

Olive Oil Legend, Puglia!

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My recent Journey, taken only in July, due to the cooking schedule of David Tanis at Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School; otherwise, I would not recommend Italian travel in the blistering hot month of July, unless perhaps you are on a lake or a yacht prowling the seductively blue Adriatic Seas.

Antica Masseria Brancati

Ambitious schedules and heat left me limp each day on this overland Journey. I was raised in heat and spent many childhood afternoons stretched out on a sofa with a cold compress on my forehead, nursing a nosebleed due to the extreme temperatures. Hot weather, we are incompatible.

But give me an afternoon under the enormous branches of a shady Stone Pine, and if you must, more chilled Prosecco, countless Italian delicacies and I can manage the heat. We arrived at Antica Masseria Brancati in Ostuni via a winding dirt road, flanked by perfectly stacked rock walls and surrounded by hundreds of massive olive trees. Eventually, I learned at least 800 of the trees are considered Monument Olives due to the age – 2000 – 3000 years old, planted when Jesus was roaming the fields. Brilliantly hued bougainvillea draped and dangled over the white washed walls of the beautiful masseria. A long stone path leads to the main Villa, chapel and garden in the central courtyard of Antica Masseria Brancati.

Seven generations of Corrado Rodio’s family have managed the Olive Oil farm, which includes an amazing underground museum room with olive mill tools that date back centuries. Large plots of the ancient gnarled trees are planted as the Romans originally planted them, 60 Roman feet between each tree planted in a specific grid. Many of the ancient trees, which still produce olives, have been given colorful descriptive names. The Old Man (Grande Vecchio) is bent and twisted three times around itself, and rests on a column of stones, like an old man and his walking stick. Nearby, the tree of Adam & Eve each have a very distinctive face, a likening of a serpent and of course, an apple. Corrado is extremely proud of the farm and its heritage and has incorporated olive oil tasting into the experience, he beams in sharing his family story.

We enjoyed a specially prepared lunch by Alma di Bari, who learned to cook at the apron of her grandmother; she glowed in her descriptions of each dish. And thankfully she will be passing on her recipes to her children, traditions are treasured still in some areas of the world.

Alma di Barri

Puglia is spilling with locals instilled with a passion and pride in their endeavors, whether it is an olive farm, a fisherman or a chef. Alma thought nothing of hand rolling the special Fricelli pasta that morning.

Olive Oil tasting, who knew it would result in a job offer!

Initially, Corrado seemed shy, his English and our Italian was a pretty good match, as he enthusiastically conducted a scientific olive oil tasting. It was abundantly clear in his beaming face that I correctly identified the deep fragrance of green grassy fields, spices and a distinct fruit in different cups of the oil. At conclusion, his smile and laughter confirmed that indeed, I was being offered a job! We then spotted the colossal tall wooden ladders used for picking, perhaps we will return after the harvest.

Notice, my notebook, I am a serious student!

Notice, my notebook, I am a serious student!

The enormous Stone Pine provided shade and the chirping cicadas bestowed the soundtrack of summer, as our poetic guide Michaela noted…I modified his poetry to the Symphony of Summer.Ancient Olive Trees

My tins of specific extra virgin – Salentino and Coratina Olive Oil have arrived, come for an official tasting, I’ve been deemed certified by a legend of Olive Oil, Corrado Rodio.

Of course, we can organize this for you as well on your next visit to Puglia. Trust me, two dozen words of Italian will get you through any hot summer day beneath a massive Stone Pine.

Ciao!