Salta in the Lerma Valley is named Salta la Linda, translated the beautiful, is one of the most beautiful cities in Argentina, it is a popular destination due to the Colonial architecture and the amazing natural scenery of the western landscape. In the 1400’s the Incas traveled down this ancient road to conquer the southern tribal people. By the mid-1500s, the Royal Road became a well-established trade route; you can see the remains of pre- Hispanic and colonial cultures in the villages and lifestyles of the people as well as in the ruins of 17th century Jesuit churches. The landscapes are as abundantly diverse, from 22,000 foot-high Andean peaks, deserts and deep gorges known as quebradas and humid subtropical jungles. Amazing scenery, which rivals our Grand Canyon – and it, stretches for hours and hours through beautiful canyons and valleys. The climate year around is quite agreeable.

Of note in the Plaza 9 de Julio, is the neoclassical Iglesia Cathedral, built in 1882. The plaza is one of the most maintained town squares in the country; the square is filled with greenery, fountains and benches. Bordering the perimeter by elegant recovas, a perfect spot for an afternoon of people watching and sipping an afternoon cafe cortado.

In Salta you will see the famous gauchos; driving through the countryside, hundreds of roadside shrines to Gaucho Gil are visible for miles, the red flags waving in the wind. Gaucho Antonio Gil or El Gauchito who lived in the 19th century, deserted the Army; while evading capture, he robbed the rich and shared with the poor. Eventually he was captured and strung up by his feet in order to be beheaded. Gaucho Gil prophesied to his executioner: “When you return home you’ll discover that I have actually been pardoned and you’ll find your son gravely ill”. He pleaded to be properly buried, which was unusual in those days for a hoodlum, in exchange for which he would assure the recovery of the executioner’s mortally ill son. But his pleas didn’t work and Gaucho Gil was beheaded. When the executioner came home he found both prophecies to be true, he hastened to return to execution place, in order to properly bury Gaucho Gil. Soon the executioner’s son recovered – a miracle had occurred and a legend was born. Word spread and the shrines were built and are still maintained; gifts are left at the roadside shrines in an offering of devotion and gratitude. The red scarves and flags characteristically waving in the breeze are thought to represent Gaucho Gil’s neck scarf soaked in his blood. Gauchos are still prevalent in the pampas, herding cattle and employed by Estancias. In Salta, a Gaucho is traditionally dressed in a bright red cape, high black boots and loose fitting black trousers, belted with a piece of cloth known as a tirador. Their large knife hangs from the trousers, gaucho attire is topped off with a traditional leather cowboy hat. They roam the countryside on horseback and I saw several Gauchos in the streets of Salta as well; mystery still travels with the gauchos. Similar to the lore of Western cowboys, gaucho’s enjoy a reputation as silent and strong, honest and hard working; however, certainly when provoked, capable of fierceness. Classic Gaucho’s more likely benefit from romantic notions and idyllic prose than our Western cowboys, their myth and history is celebrated yearly and honored through the countryside.

Small boutique hotels are near the town square; I particularly like Bodega Legado Mitico, in the historic quarter. An old mansion which once belonged to a patrician Saltenean family; it has been carefully restored and renovated with 11 lovely rooms. The room décor is a pleasing mix of classical and modern – every object, piece of furniture and painting has been chosen carefully for its cultural significance. Large comfy library for afternoon cocktails, a delightful poplar lined patio, and many of the rooms have balconies, Conde Nast added it to their 2009 Hot List – for many good reasons – Mitico is lovely, elegant and charming!

One special event in Salta is the yearly celebration of the Virgin Mary on September 15. La Fiesta del Señor y la Virgen del Milagro is the biggest religious festival in the North of Argentina. Over 500,000 Pilgrims come from all over the Northwest of Argentina, many walking for days to get to Salta to pay homage to the images of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The legend surviving 400 years, honors Mary as the locals prayed to her to protect them from an earthquake, she saved the city of Salta and the event is commemorated every year in an outpouring of amazing faith and elaborate processions. Even if you are not Catholic, it is an impressive site to witness the peregrino’s filling the beautiful church for several days of celebration. The midnight Mass is in Spanish, is standing room only among 500,000 worshipers, truly an amazing celebration.

Located at the foot of the snow capped Andes- one is instantly impressed and awed by this spectacular wine growing area. There are five different regions within the Province of Mendoza. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Chenin Blanc, and Malbec grapes are grown. Most of the better Argentine wines come from the province of Mendoza, desert flatlands in the foothills of the Andes that are irrigated from melting snow. While the grape varieties are European, the weather and soil conditions give the Argentine wines a very special quality. Few of us realize that Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world; and there are some spectacularly good Argentine wines. The primary reason Argentine wines are only just beginning to appear on international markets is that, with an average wine consumption of around 60 liters per head annually, there has been little surplus for export! And we thought the Italians and French consumed wine by the barrel full.

Mendoza is an area of magnificent estancias, marvelous wines, wonderful horseback riding, fishing and birding, rafting in the summer, golf- countless activities for families, all nearby. Or if you are inclined, follow the vineyard trail, taste from the barrel with the wine maker, and explore charming ancient wineries or appealing boutique modern facilities. Wine tasting here is by appointment only, and often includes a leisurely lunch and tasting of 4- 8 different wines.

Lodging options include modern hotels in Mendoza City- or boutique properties in the country-side. Cavas Wine Lodge is a short 20 minutes away, nestled at the base of the snow capped Andes- plopped down in the middle of 35 acres of a working vineyard. Cecilia Diaz Chuit and Martin Rigal have created a splendid hotel built in a Spanish colonial style and devoted to the joys of wine. In the rooms, the spa and the Arabian feel of the patios, paintings and pottery is a constant reminder to slow down and enjoy solitude, excellent meals and delicious wine. Each room a private cabana with a roof deck with an outdoor fireplace. A small private plunge pool outside your cabana for soaking at the end of a hot day with a view of the Andes, it’s hard to imagine a more perfect setting. The trip here is a bumpy one on a gravel road, but the journey is worth it. The entrance is impressive, with a view of snow on the mountains beyond and a lobby featuring a twisted grape vine chandelier and commissioned original modern art. A sunny rectangular sitting area is outfitted with designer furniture and enough books to occupy anyone for days. Since Cavas is a bit out of town, the staff offers entertainment every night: a wine tasting class, Tango lessons, cooking classes with the Cavas chef.

A car and driver can be arranged for dinner excursions into Mendoza, again marvelous food at very reasonable prices. Francis Mallmann 1884 restaurant recently voted as 7th best restaurant in the world by Restaurant Magazine serves high-end fusion Patagonian ingredients and French technique. Housed in an atmospheric Spanish-style building inside the Bodega Escorihuela, 1884 uses a wood- fired oven in the winery’s courtyard to prepare roasted meats and empanadas. Respecting the seasonality of his ingredients, Mallmann changes the menu every two weeks and prepares dishes with matching wine selections. During the week, you can easily combine a meal at 1884 with a tour of the bodega, which also has an art gallery.

Other Estancias are options, some an hour or two from Mendoza City, each exuding charm and within minutes of vineyards.

Mendoza is home to quite a few internationally known artists, meeting them in their studios is easily arranged. Of course private tours to wineries, dinners or lunches in vineyards or olive groves- You can also savor regional Argentine cuisine amidst olive groves and gardens, and even stargaze from vineyards, wineglass in hand.