Category Archives: Safari

Follow the Herd? Africa Migration

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Migration Safari – Lodges and Luxury Tents are Teeming!

The annual movement of wildebeest and other grazing herbivores across the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is one of the greatest spectacles in the natural world. The horizon fills with 1.5 million wildebeest, 200,000 zebra, 18,000 eland and 500,000 Thompson’s gazelle, relentlessly tracked by Africa’s great predators. The Migration is rarely the same in terms of precise timing and direction – it is Mother Nature, after all!

The African wild animal migration is one of the most exciting periods to visit. During the year, the herds move most of the time, however, they move most in May – July and November. These times are hard to predict where they will be, so are not necessarily ideal if you stay in one location. Following the herd is not a euphemism on the savannah. Another popular time is from August to October when the animals are in the far northern Serengeti of Tanzania and the Masai Mara in Kenya, and is known for the crossings of the Mara River.

In August you can predict with more accuracy where they will be. All these times are “summer” but are distinctly different as far as which itinerary we would recommend. Mixing up a five star lodge and a luxury portable tent safari is the most efficient method of following the herd during this period. However you need to be adventurous, keen on different experiences…..

A Day in the Life of A Safari Guest

  • As your plane descends towards the sun-baked airstrip, a beaming member of my land team is ready and waiting to welcome you with chilled drinks before you are whisked off on a scenic game drive en route to your lodge or camp.
  • The lodge staff is waiting at the entrance to greet you with refreshing drinks and fragrant towels. Your personal butler escorts you to your bush suite, where your luggage is already waiting, as you unwind and drink the views of the surrounding bush.
  • Mouth watering aromas waft on the still air as lunch is served on the private deck of your suite, on the wide veranda of the main guest area or at the poolside.
  • Choose between a blissful nap on your downy bed or chilling out at the pool.
  • After a sumptuous high tea, embark on a thrilling afternoon-into-evening game drive. Chances are excellent that you will encounter a great variety of exciting animals and birds. Your professional, highly trained ranger and tracker will interpret the wonders of the wilderness, making your experience effortlessly enlightening and unforgettable.
  • As the golden orb of the sun sinks towards the horizon, you stop in a scenic bush setting. As if by magic, a table with snacks and drinks appear, with the noises of the African bush as a primeval soundtrack. A traditional Sundowner is a nightly occurrence in the bush.
  • After a dramatic spot-lit night drive where you thrill to predators hunting and other nocturnal animal activity, you return to the lodge, where iced drinks and snacks await you in the fire- and lantern-lit boma under a bright canopy of stars.
  • Alternatively, you may experience a real surprise on your night game drive. Rounding a turn in the bush, you come across an enchanting scene: dozens of lanterns festoon the trees, and huge fire-bowls illuminate damask-clad tables twinkling with crystal and silver. An alfresco feast of scrumptious Pan-African cuisine is served by smiling chefs in crisp white, followed by cigars, cognac and stargazing.
  • As you drift into a deep sleep, you contemplate the delights that the next day will bring: an early morning wake- up tap on your door, fragrant coffee and muffins before setting off on a game drive as the pre-dawn sky reveals tints of cerise, gradually turning to azure blue as the new day welcomes the warmth of the rising sun. The bush is alive with wildlife, early risers browsing, lion stretching and yawning as their fluffy cubs frolic nearby. A mid-drive stop produces welcome hot drinks, chilled fresh juice and snacks: merely a prelude to the delicious breakfast that awaits your return to the lodge.
  • Later, you may decide on a fascinating bush walk, where your ranger will share intriguing insights into the fauna and flora of the area. Or you may simply opt to relax in a quiet corner, where warm, friendly land teams will ensure that your every desire is anticipated and exceeded.

 Safari is the Ultimate Journey many months of the year!

Aman-i-Khas In Search of Tigers

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Most, who know me, appreciate my love of safari; offer me a trip anywhere and a bush adventure is always at top of my list! Thus, in planning my recent Journey to India, knowing tigers lurked in the jungles, I had to visit…the trek is off the beaten path, but an Aman resort and tigers prove too tempting to resist.

Departing the town of Agra, it is a complicated route, five hours by car and a short train journey. The roads in India require a very skillful driver who is well versed in using the horn and dodging every nature of animal. Raju, my driver for over 12 days, wears more than the hat of an exceptional driver; we shed tears when we left him in Udaipur to fly to Mumbai! Always patient and possessing the eye of an expert safari spotter, he called out numerous camel, goat, sacred cow, baby monkey, and gypsy encampment photo-ops along the route; plus Raju was an expert at managing the ever growing piles of luggage. As noted earlier, shopping in India is fantastic! Raju and the train ride deserve separate blogs; loved it all, but one must be a bit daring to take some of the road trips and the train; in the skilled hands of Raju and my expert guides, I would do it again!
Our guide on the train kept watch on us until we arrived in Ranthambore where he turned us over to Raju (who had shockingly arrived before the train), and our new guide. Arriving at sunset to Aman-i-Khas Jungle Resort, the entire Aman staff was lined up to welcome us with a chilled lemon tipple, and a refreshingly cool mint scented linen towel. Flickering lanterns lined the path to the terrace bonfire, musicians played in the background. Again, Aman welcomes are extraordinary, the stage is set!

Aman-i-Khas is located on the fringe of Ranthambhore National Park with a dramatic backdrop of the Aravali Hills. The camp consists of 10 tents, in the midst of a stunning natural setting. Delightful luxurious tents, simple, yet fully equipped with loo, sunken tub – yes, bubbles and roses here too, king size bedroom, dressing room and living room, plus a spacious verandah. The French-Belgian architect, Jean- Michel Gathy achieved simplicity and purity in the design of these lovely tents…I could stay for a very long time and I don’t camp. A minimalist approach to replicate the by gone era of nomadic tents of the people of the northern desert and the royal hunting parties, as the area was once the hunting grounds of the Maharaja of Jaipur.

My batmen, Surender, who anticipated every need before I made a request, provided a personal tour of the beautiful organic garden. At all of the five star properties I visited, organic gardens are the norm, filtered water for drinking and the garden- one does not need be denied fresh vegetables and salad at any of these fine resorts.

Local villagers have organized many women’s collectives in this area; beautiful textiles, silk pajamas, woven rugs and jewelry are offered in small collectives.

Several schools welcome visitors, the children are eager to share their chalkboard math and spelling lists – this is one of my favorite events wherever I travel. Pencils and paper are very welcome and are easy to pack. I encourage meeting the locals and spending time understanding their way of life. In one village, a lovely young woman valiantly attempted to teach me how to carry the enormous water pitcher atop my head- I failed miserable- she deftly transported the full jug with supreme grace and elegance. Her lesson and laughter will endure as one my favorite recollections of my trip.

Tigers – the theme of this adventure. The tigers were elusive, despite several dawn safari drives. The jungle and forest are teeming with deer, antelope, monkeys and stunning birds. Sadly, tiger paw prints were as close as I came to the tiger. But the excitement of the search and bounding through the jungle in an open jeep always elicits a thrill.

Camel safari is offered for a sunset viewing. Definitely recommended riding a delightfully festooned camel around the extraordinary terrain encircling Aman-i-Khas. Chaldi- Chaldi (quick quick) is not in their vocabulary; a gentle ride is marvelous fun.

Aman-I Khas is an extraordinary property, the staff is extremely hospitable, the Western and Indian menu is extensive and delicious. Traditional tea is an elegant pause in the midst of a quiet afternoon, sun-downer cocktails are served around the outdoor fireplace. Blankets and cashmere shawls heaped atop the cushions, a Royal atmosphere ensues at Aman-i-Khas.