Mapping Patagonia   Via Santiago Trekking, Southern Argentina.

Arrive to Santiago de Chile, commonly known as Santiago, founded by the Spanish in 1541. It’s Chile’s largest, most populated city and has served as the country’s capital since colonial days. Set in a valley surrounded by the snow-capped Andes Mountains, Santiago is a vibrant city with unique neighborhoods full of history and culture, a thriving culinary scene and active nightlife.

From the Plaza de Armas, home to the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and the Metropolitan Cathedral, through the hip, artsy Bellavista barrio, to La Chascona Museum House, the former residence of Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, Santiago is a great place to explore on foot. . Pablo Neruda was an eccentric romantic, composing love poems that are renowned for their sensual desire and lend a new meaning to passion. In 1951, Neruda bought La Chascona in the Bellavista neighborhood for his secret lover, Matilde Urrutia. Many of his friends were kept in the dark about the love affair, among them was the Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, who painted a portrait of Matilde with two heads. If you look closely at her hair, you can see the profile of Neruda, the lover who still remained hidden, appear diffuse. This is one of the pieces displayed today in the house museum. Today, the house (in reality, four small cottages clustered together) is now a museum part of the Fundación Pablo Neruda. Inside, visitors will find an eclectic collection of the Nobel-winning poet’s personal items, from the portrait of Matilde by Diego Riviera to odd sculptures and English china. Wander by beautiful parks, neoclassical architecture, historic mansions, and cathedrals.

Head out with your guide and driver for a full-day private overview of Santiago de Chile, including the downtown area surrounding La Moneda – the Presidential Palace, and the pedestrian streets of Huérfanos and Ahumada. You will also visit some of the local barrios of Santiago including the cobblestoned Lastarria neighborhood, with the nearby Parque Forrestal and, if interested, the Bellas Artes Museum.

Enjoy the views of Santiago from either the Sky Center tower, which is the highest building in Santiago, or Cristobal Hill. If interested in a look at 20th century history, your guide to the Memory & Human Rights Museum, which tells the story of the country’s military dictatorship through the lens of its victims and is a testament to Chile’s democracy and grappling with its past. Another great option is the Pre-Columbian Museum, in the historic center.

Your guide will help you get the most out of your day exploring the Chilean capital before returning to your hotel. This can easily be designed to your specific interests such as street art, biking, cooking class and more!

Hotels – a few we can recommend: The Singular and The Mandarin Oriental garner attention with their rooftop pools. What better place to relax after a day of exploring, than with a cocktail in hand and quietly gaze at the stunning city views. The Hotel Santiago by Mandarin takes things to the next level! An impressive lagoon-style swimming pool with a waterfall and a large spa, it’s easy to understand why this is often voted as the best luxury hotel in Santiago. Rooms are chic, with modern touches, marble bathrooms and gorgeous views over to the Andes mountains and the hotel’s pristine gardens. Foodies will love this hotel too, as there are highly rated Japanese, Thai and Mediterranean restaurants within the property.

Mandarin Oriental, Santiago

Check out and fly to Puerto Natales Airport. Arrive at hotel: Estancia Cerro Guido. At the end of the 19th century, this estancia (cattle ranch) was born as part of the Tierra del Fuego Exploitation Society, the largest cattle network in Chilean Patagonia’s history. Today, the estancia maintains and uses the original houses and facilities built on the slopes of the imposing Cerro Guido, preserving the abundant cultural heritage.  Get swept up into Patagonia’s fascinating heritage and culture on this 10,000-hectare (247 100-acre) working ‘estancia’, or ranch. On the slope of the imposing Cerro Guido, farmhouses were built by pioneers in 1920, in a striking wilderness where puma roamed, and condor wheeled overhead (and still do today).

The elegant décor of the 12 rooms is inspired by the original English style, exuding tranquility and calm. Each room includes oh-so-comfy featherbeds, a private bathroom with shower, hairdryer, biodegradable toiletries, central heating, a safe, Wi-Fi and views overlooking the verdant gardens.

Dine on spectacular three-course meals made from the organic produce grown in the estancia’s allotments; delicious lamb cooked in the traditional ‘al palo’ style (roasted whole over a fire), and Chile’s finest wines. Free-range and organically fed hens provide delicious farm eggs every day for sumptuous breakfasts. Using fresh products from the garden and the countryside, the restaurant offers gourmet dishes inspired by traditional recipes. Combining ingredients from the English pioneers and the locals, with firewood playing a starring role in some of the special preparations

This vast territory located at the southern end of the planet tells the story of a captivating culture; simple and connected with the land and climate. Explore the estancia’s greenhouses and orchards and see the wonderful abundance of greens and vegetables that are ingeniously grown in this challenging climate.

Visit the stables and accompany the gauchos in the daily care of the horses; participate in different tasks such as brushing, saddling or feeding these magnificent animals. Discover the ‘chenque’, the highest indigenous cemetery at Cerro Guido’s summit, opening a window to the Tehuelche culture.

Guests are encouraged to disconnect and immerse themselves in the breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. Wander through the garden, relax on the patio, or unwind in one of three inviting living rooms.

Experience & Activities- Daily excursions are organized by the team of guides in combination with guests, considering your interests and the weather conditions ensuring an unforgettable experience. Activities include conservation safaris, 4×4 adventures, hiking in the park, horse riding, historical tours, fishing, and more – all planned on your arrival.

Located on the edge of Torres del Paine National Park, on the slopes of the 390 sq. mile Cerro Guido is surrounded by beautiful mountains, lakes, pampas & wildlife.

Next day. After check-out this morning, depart your lodge by private transfer to El Calafate and drop-off at your hotel there. (Approx. duration 5-6 hours, depending on speed of border procedures exiting Chile and entering Argentina.)

Overnight  at Xelena Hotel & Suites, an elegant retreat in the breathtaking region of Patagonia, located in El Calafate, Argentina. With its unrivaled views of the imposing Lake Argentino and the magnificent Cerro El Calafate Mountain peak, the hotel offers a blend of luxury and personalized attention that ensures an unforgettable stay.

On the banks of Lake Argentina, a few kilometers away from the city of El Calafate. Dedicated hotel staff create the perfect environment to unwind, appreciate the magnetism of nature and recharge one’s batteries, catering for families, business-related excursions and even romantic getaways.

The hotel boasts an indoor-outdoor heated pool overlooking the crisp lake and the entertainment area houses a jacuzzi, dry sauna, fitness area and a luxury spa.

Xelena’s rooms are quaint and comfortable, with deluxe coffee machines, soft linen and luxury products. Bathed in the early morning sunlight, guests can enjoy a sumptuous buffet breakfast on the restaurant patio overlooking the still lake. Dinner promises mouthwatering Patagonian cuisine enjoyed within a comfortable distance from the world-renowned Perito Moreno Glacier. Hotel Xelena’s imposing presence acts like a lighthouse against the backdrop of the breathtaking, snowcapped landscape.

Highlights: Unrivaled views of Lake Argentino & the splendid Cerro El Calafate. Indoor-outdoor heated pool. Short walking distance from the center of El Calafate. El Calafate (cal-uh-fah-te) and El Chalten (shall-ten) are the main towns in the Argentinian section of Patagonia. They sit on separate glacial lakes that are both among the largest in all of Argentina. Both places take advantage of their incredible location and offer all sorts of adventure activities; hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing, cycling, boat rides, and even walking on a glacier.

Check out and transfer to Punta Bandera. Board the Estancia Cristina boat and depart for the approximately 2.5-hour journey to the lodge. This transfer is your initial expedition of your stay. From El Calafate you board a small boat for the ride across the deep blue Lago Argentino and up into its long glacial fingers, ringed by impossibly tall peaks, and when finally, you arrive at the Estancia you’ll feel — with some rationalization — as though you’ve arrived in utterly another world.

Three nights Estancia Cristina. Estancia Cristina was founded in 1914 by Joseph Percival Master and his wife, Jessie. The estancia (ranch) retains its original essence, keeping alive the spirit of this pioneering family who turned this place into a little paradise. Staying at Estancia Cristina means living the experience of a real Patagonian lodge. Situated in the middle of Argentine Patagonia’s 3,000 square mile Los Glaciares National Park, its remote and exquisite location, vast green glacial valley, and majestic mountain range will leave guests in awe of nature’s grandeur.

Estancia Cristina

Built and decorated to pay homage to the estancia’s history, the ‘Octagon’ is an exclusive common area for overnight guests at Estancia Cristina. This is where guests gather after the day’s adventures to relax, share stories, enjoy a drink, and dine on quality farm-fresh food. The bedrooms are traditionally decorated, cozy, and inviting but keep guests connected with the grand Patagonian scenery through spacious windows.

Estancia Cristina offers short self-guided walking or mountain biking circuits and longer tours on which bilingual guides accompany guests on treks, horseback rides, four-wheel drives, or fishing expeditions. All included activities take place on the estancia’s grounds and surroundings and are planned on arrival based on weather.

If you’re trekking in Patagonia, fully immerse yourself in the experience, if remoteness is the new face of luxury, then Estancia Cristina deserves many stars.  One reason to love South American lodges is that they know better than to try to compete with the views — like the best of them, Estancia Cristina is not without its architectural charms, but it’s restrained, almost practical, its indulgences more a matter of warm, rich textures, simple fabrics and raw woods. Here four cottages contain the Estancia’s 20 rooms, each one dominated by a wide picture window oriented towards the mountains.

The lodge has five buildings, each with a common entryway and living room leading to four completely independent rooms with their own en-suite bathrooms. The rooms provide an extremely comfortable and private place to rest and soak up the views and silence of the surroundings. The design of each building allows the option to provide connecting rooms while maintaining individual privacy and space, which is ideal for families and groups of friends. Founded in 1914 in a remote valley guarded by mountains & lakes. The majestic Upsala glacier is located only a few kilometers from the estancia.

Estancia Cristina allows visitors to see a wild part of Los Glaciares National Park unseen by 99% of visitors. Experience local hospitality firsthand without sacrificing the luxuries of home, and enjoy access to one of the remotest travel locations on the planet.

Visits run daily from October 1st to April 30th – even on special dates such as Christmas and New Year’s Eve. From May 1st to September 30th, Estancia Cristina is closed.

Day 11 Transfer to Punta Bandera. Depart Estancia Cristina. Depart aboard the 2 pm boat transfer back to El Calafate, exclusively for guests staying at least 2 nights. Transfer to Airport and depart Punta Bandera. On arrival at Punta Bandera, private transfer directly to the El Calafate airport for your flight onward.

Flight from El Calafate to Buenos Aires. Arrive Buenos Aires, stay for a night or two or make your way home.

Estancia Cristina, Octagon

One reason to love South American lodges is that they know better than to try to compete with the views.

Naviva, A Four Seasons Resort, Punta Mita, Adult-only Tented Resort

Although I vowed to stay home all summer, a few temptations lured me from my garden! My favorite Four Seaons GM, known as Irishman, invited me to enjoy Naviva, come when I am there…which is summer! Hot and humid and rainy! But when he says, visit, I fly!

View from my bed Naviva

It’s a quick three-hour flight, landing in Puerto Vallarta. The Four Seasons ‘Birdies’ know all my favorites… I love a chilled Cerveza on arrival – to me, it says you have arrived in Mexico! I may not even finish it; it’s just my little tradition! A baby bottle of beer and snacks were offered in the car!  

Passing through colorful quaint rural villages, I felt at home – travel truly feeds my soul, suddenly excited to be in Mexico! I find travel the absolute essential antidote to everyday routines. Away from my lovely little world, away from schedules. I let out a sigh of relief and let the pure sense of excitement wash over me.

I stayed at my ‘home’, Four Seasons Punta Mita for a night to see all that is new: always in my ocean front suite with plunge pool. Waves crashing below, door open for the breeze and sound of surf.  The arrival sets the stage, the Four Seasons ‘Birdies’ share my desires and secrets, so many little ‘Birdies’ who know my needs!  Am I spoiled here? Si! But so are our clients!

Four Seasons Arrival Punta Mita

Always a refreshing welcome drink, a yummy fruit concoction garnished with a popsicle, was enhanced with a splash of Mezcal! Si si! Greeted by my pal, Irishman, the dear GM who is admired by everyone he knows. The Irish poet, artist and Hotelier Extraordinaire! Hola and welcome – visit the new villas, enjoy a nap and see you for dinner! This is a Work Trip, after all!

A brief escape, for a couple of days in the humid summer heat of Punta Mita to explore all that is new in the Americas! I had a sneak peek before Naviva opened and this is my first stay in the amazing adults only, fully inclusive Glamping Tent resort affiliated with the iconic Four Seasons Punta Mita. This five-star property has always been our client Number One go to for years and now there is another reason to visit!

Navivia Arrival refreshing Tuba drink

Naviva Tent Camp is mere minutes from the main hotel, but it feels miles away from civilization! A nature retreat featuring 15 luxury Glamping Tents nestled amid 48 forested acres on a private peninsula overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the unrivaled Naviva experience creates an environment that allows guests to mingle or isolate and absorb the sights and sounds of nature, undisturbed in an untamed jungle oasis.

Hiking, fishing, stargazing, yoga, meditation or just plain sitting quietly with a book and catching your breath and balance. Disconnect or if you must, the Four Seasons resort is a golf buggy away, Naviva is only for registered guests, the main hotel guests don’t have access, this is a private commune with nature! During your stay, a complimentary massage and other complimentary activities are offered to each guest.

With only 15 luxury tents designed by Luxury Frontiers – all with private plunge pools – Naviva is one of the smallest Four Seasons resorts in the world. The Resort’s transformative approach and certified Naviva guides come together to create a high-touch, yet unassuming adult-only experience, the name translates to “love of life or living things.”

The natural setting is wild jungle, interspersed with massive boulders, cascading waterfalls and of course, the sparkling Pacific, a stone’s throw away. One does feel like you are sitting on the edge of the world, the horizon extends forever…a fishing boat may bob on the waves or in winter your view, will include whales passing by!

Luxury Frontiers designed the spaces of each tent. My favorite tent, #7, near a massive Ceiba Tree, with the name Alas, means Wings in Spanish, perfect for me! The larger footprint tent included an open-air safari type tent room, which has screens but not AC, set up as a comfy place to lounge or enjoy cocktails.  The bedroom with AC and glass walls overlooking the ocean is the perfect size for two guests. Each tent features spacious indoor and outdoor areas that seamlessly blend together. A sweeping deck bordered my deep private plunge pool, the perfect sunset viewing location… bobbing in the pool as birds soar, frigate birds hunting for dragonfly dinner, swoop across the deep jungle below my pool. At dusk, I think a bat tucked up into the roof line of my tent. Nature, including hundreds of butterflies, are your only neighbors. Gaze from your lounger or sway in the gigantic white cotton hammock. Luxurious in feel, yet not fussy.

A large bathroom with deep soaking tub has unobstructed views of the sparking sea and the winter whales. Just outside the bathroom is an outdoor shower, between my plunge pool and the outdoor shower, I was refreshed all day long!

On arrival, guests are immediately immersed in the outdoors, meeting their guide on a cocoon-inspired bamboo bridge overlooking a deep forest ravine. The bamboo bridge has small platforms jutting over a mini canyon waterfall, the end of the roof line suggests a curved Frank Geary copper rooftop. It’s petite, but quite majestic.

Authentic local experiences with a sense of place are offered to guests. Daily life at Naviva is tailored to the whims of each guest with certified Naviva guides. Unscripted Naviva experiences such as sampling small-batch Mexican coffees, stargazing, and joining in sunset rituals, are among spontaneous activities for guests to pursue at the exclusive Resort.

Guests can also enjoy Signature Naviva experiences that bring the character, heritage and expertise of local talent and tradition to the forefront, such as visiting award-winning local artist Jose Juan Esparza at his private home and studio, nocturnal forest bathing, sound therapy and breathwork.

Journeys for the Mind, Body and Soul. Deviating from traditional hotel wellness offerings, Naviva offers a series of intimate spaces including two spa pods tucked away in the lush forest, a traditional Mexican temazcal or “house of heat,” an outdoor gym, a serene jungle oasis at the Alma Pool and a private 575-foot expanse of pristine Pacific beachfront – a calming place to practice yoga or mindfulness.

Naviva also gives guests the opportunity to focus fully on their physical wellbeing. Workouts at Naviva include cliffside yoga sessions at Risco Terrace, scenic hiking and running trails, and strength training in the outdoor open-air gym overlooking the Pacific, where guests can incorporate existing formations such as boulders and trees, connecting to nature with every stretch and every breath.

Dining: Rustic luxury is brought to life overlooking the coastal seascapes of the Pacific at Copal, the heart of Naviva. More than simply a restaurant, the shared space is designed to evoke the feeling of being in a living room and kitchen of a private home, inviting guests to gather for games, reading, conversation, ideas, and music. No set dining hours, no set menu, this is your casa, and you tell the chef what you are craving!

At Copal Cocina, not only do you see the live cooking energy of the open-air kitchen, which is at the center of the space and features all natural open-fire cooking methods with traditional BBQ pits, wood-fire grill rotisseries and wood-fire ovens. Met the chefs, chat about what is fresh from the sea or the garden. Bountiful sea catches and seasonal produce are the inspiration and foundation of fresh daily offerings.

One afternoon, I wandered into Copal for a Mezcal class, solo class, at my pace. Chef Miike knew I only eat fish, he said come look – the fisherman who provides catch of the day is offshore. With binoculars, we saw a speck in the waves – moments later the fisherman who fishes with a spear gun appeared in the kitchen with a massive catch for dinner! He is a special diver who utilizes the rare Japanese method of killing the fish. Ikejime is a Japanese term for the immediate killing of a live fish. The technique, results in a high-quality fish product and is considered the most humane way of killing a fish, it enhances the quality and flavor of seafood. Gwen – pick out your dinner!

I was spoiled, the Jungle Birdies alerted the teams on my favorite beverage’s, snacks and even my Friday Night Popcorn and Champagne addiction – nothing is sacred! After dinner, Charlie knocked on my door with hot buttered popcorn and a flute of Champagne! Dinner at Copal was fun and amazingly delicious. Garden salads, divine fresh tuna, a foamy soup, tempted me to lick the bowl! Plates of fresh vegetables, yummy fruit-based desserts, with staff and chef nearby to describe each delectable dish.  Where else do you have the chef and team within feet of your table, and a background of dramatic ocean views?

Since it is summer, the rainy season, somehow it usually rains at night not during the day. Irishman and I dined through a thunder and lightening spectacle that was astonishing, truly an epic display of Mother Nature at her Very Best, within feet of our table! The wait staff described each dish while massive bolts of lightning lit up the ocean behind them, thunder bellowed, and they never flinched! We jumped out of our chairs before the torrential down pour. So good in so many ways!

On Mexico’s Pacific coast, within the Riviera Nayarit, Naviva is located at the northern tip of Bahía de Banderas on the same peninsula as Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita. Just 45 minutes from Puerto Vallarta International Airport, this self-contained paradise is nestled within a 48-acre cliffside jungle.

Fully Inclusive – Luxury tents include all meals and snacks at any time of the day throughout the Resort, 24-hour in-tent dining, pool and beach service, all beverages including premium wine and spirits, one 60-minute spa treatment per guest, community activities, mind and body classes, Unscripted Naviva experiences, guide planning and in-tent amenities. Signature Naviva experiences, rare or specialty-ordered beverages, additional spa treatments, private classes or training, and airport transfers are available for an additional cost. Our clients receive VIP amenities.

Naviva guests also receive full access to the adjacent Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, located just five minutes away. The Resort features ten restaurants and bars, two golf courses, three pools, two beaches and additional spa and fitness facilities. 

I grew up fishing and thought shore casting would be a fun casual activity. Chris had the rods set up on the sand, mentioned the tide was racing in rapidly and hard due to a previous day tropical storm. First wave smacked and soaked me, I withstood it, but as I sank into the wet sand, I realized my metal knee, deep sand and the strong surf would be a bit daunting! I prevailed with Chis running to prop me as each wave hit. Casting was fun and strenuous and fruitless, no fish for me! He was a great sport and instructor, all very casual and spirited!

This beach is not a swimming beach; you can go to the Four Seasons hotel for safer swimming! But the beach is a divine location for a romantic dinner. Staff sets up a lovely table at the base of the steps and serves your private dinner on the sand!

Shore Casting – alas, no fish!

A newish program called Unplugged brings in Grammy winning artists, celebrated songwriters and rising star musicians for a private evening of music. I wandered to Copal, found a comfy chair and enjoyed a fabulous live acoustic performance by Anderson East, a young Nashville singer, it was such a treat to sit 10 feet away, the crashing sea to my right and jungle surrounding the open-air living room. Rosa who taught my Mezcal class, sent a scrumptious cocktail and Charlie served yummy appetizers…no fanfare, just enchanting music in an intimate setting. It was extraordinary!

I ran into a travel pal whom I had not seen in years, he and his husband were staying a week, they love it! I only saw them again when I was departing; with only 15 tents, it is unlikely you will see other guests. Literally hidden in the jungle, the pool area was always deserted when I meandered. The three-tiered pool is perched below colossal palm trees, each pool pod set amid jungle fronds and enormous boulders. Forget your reading material, a basket of books sits next to the sunblock lotion!  

My Nature massage was over the top relaxing; Ivette is a wonder woman masseuse. To reach the Massage Pod, follow a curved path to a hidden door which conceals the elevated massage chamber… two beds if you are inclined to share the experience. Incense, sage and herbal oils set the stage – your intention is drawn from an array of colorful cards. I randomly selected one and held it near me. My card read: I connect with People who make me happy. I attract Wonderful people into my life. I choose to be around people who make my heart.

I would return in a heartbeat, Naviva is a magical experience! Gracias to the Jungle Birdies for paving my path!

Highly Recommend!