Where I Want to Go…Wandering or Adventuring.

According to Websters Dictionary Wandering means “traveling aimlessly from place to place”. Adventuring presents stories of astonishing miracles and heroic adventure.

A fluke hammock incident in my garden resulted in a minor concussion with three staples in my head… both firsts for me. I spent many sedentary days on a stable flat glider letting my brain heal.  Quiet time to reminisce driving through idyllic country roads in France for a Big Birthday.  For miles, a sheep herder was often the only obstacle; elderly farmers along the road selling bags of walnuts – my lack of language translated to opening my wallet, offering my French Francs. Layers of local experiences. One of my favorite photos of me is on a country lane in France, me with wallet open ‘negotiating’ a bag of walnuts from a local farmer! I’ll never forget the experience!

France – On my wish list. Two charming French properties in picturesque locations within hours of each other.  Highly regarded Michelin chef, Alain Ducasse, and a Michelin recommendation at the second property.  La Bastide Moustiers, sits in the heart of Provence, relax on a shaded terrace overlooking the valley, time seems to stand still here, truly a spot to ‘enjoy the moment’.  Ducasse’s four-star hotel and Michelin star restaurant is a labor of love. Gourmands helicopter in just for lunch. Shrewder travelers check in and cherish the historic charm and unpretentious sophistication of the rambling estate, located in one of Frances prettiest villages.

THE NATURAL JEWELS OF THE VERDON. The wild and majestic gorges are the largest natural canyons in Europe and without a doubt the most majestic: the Verdon Gorges are one of the sites not to be missed during your stay in this part of Provence. For 25km, the tall cliffs plunge straight down into the Verdon River before reaching the Lake of Sainte-Croix. Enjoy some hiking, mountain-biking, rock-climbing, river sailing… or simply spend time admiring this wild and unspoiled natural treasure.

A succession of villages Tourtour, Saint-Laurent-du-Verdon, Castellane, Entrevaux: there are so many villages in the Verdon that are worth a detour, not only for their location amid stunning landscapes, but also for their rich history, heritage treasures and breathtaking views they offer, especially over the Lake of Sainte-Croix. Wandering.

Concealed on a quiet country lane on the fringes of Moustiers, which shields the entrance to Verdon Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in Europe.  In 2017, it had a population of 709. It is considered one of the “most beautiful villages of France. Dramatic limestone cliffs overlook the small village, where Old World griffon vultures soar on the updrafts.

In the village itself, steep streets and narrow alleys reveal charming restaurants and charming shops. The gorgeous shimmering Lac de Sainte-Croix, with its sandy shores and limpid shallows, is a 10-minute drive away. If you thrive on sporting activities, the lake is an outdoor enthusiast’s playground offering canyoning, rafting, rock climbing, hang gliding, kayaking, canoeing, and biking.

Ducasse fell in love with this 17th century former farmhouse. Plopped amid 10 acres of gardens, surrounded by gnarled olive trees and fragrant lavender plants, La Bastide abounds with historical qualities – a flagstone floors, ancient stone walls, broad wood beamed ceilings – all complemented by deliberately chosen antique furnishings.  The result is a dreamy property exuding an air of comfortable sophistication and elegance.

Wishing to be here Second Destination – Crillion Le Brave. I stayed eons ago, rested amid the swimmers on the stone terraces of the clifftop pool. In the heart of Vaucluse, a splendid 5-star hideaway reserved for those looking to disconnect from the urban frenzy and reconnect in a sublime natural environment.

Described as a Sublime Exile. the architectural ensemble made entirely of blond Crillon stone stands at the very top of the village and exudes an atmosphere full of charm and elegance. The Hotel Crillon le Brave stands like a peaceful haven facing the mountains of Ventoux, swathed by rolling vineyards and olive groves typical of Provence. Crillon le Brave, the luxury hotel literally merges with Mont Ventoux. Surrounding the church, a marvelous labyrinth of 17th and 18th century buildings lined with Virginia creeper, a secret passage is revealed leading to a panoramic terrace overlooking the breath-taking Mont-Ventoux. A dozen old houses make up the hotel, giving it a special, private and exclusive charm, creating a timeless getaway in Mont Ventoux

The hotel is a 40-minute drive (23 miles) from Avignon TGV station, itself three hours by train from Paris Gare de Lyon, and the hotel can arrange comfortable transfers if you’ve come by rail. Crillon sits at the southern foot of Mont Ventoux, ‘the beast of Avignon’, part of the Tour de France route with some stunning walks, and just under eight miles from Carpentras, frequent residence of Popes (the Papacy was based in Avignon in the 14th century), and now famous for its black truffle markets.

High end dining offering seasonal and local produce such as Cavaillon summer melon, Caromb figs and sweet Carpentras strawberries. Wine tasting with the sommelier is a delight. Visitors: Europeans, empty nesters, blue chip -bike enthusiasts due to the awesome hills. I stayed during crush, small grape filled combines crawled amid the dusty paths loading and unloading the fall harvest.

 A quintessentially French hideaway fusing the charms of a 17th-century hamlet with contemporary luxury. If you fancy descending from your hilltop, you’re perfectly placed to explore Provence. Dive into the bustle of a local market or a summer festival. Tour vineyards and wineries, sampling famous vintages like Ventoux and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Nearby Sault is the birthplace of lavender, while cities like Avignon are home to Roman and medieval wonders. Or, like Cezanne and Van Gogh, simply head for the hills (bicycle optional) with a sketchpad and let the celebrated Provençal light inspire you.

Facilities are flawless. The spa is in an old stable: stone troughs formerly used to feed horses are now filled with lavender. The swimming pool is a perfect rectangle of attractive dark green tile overlooking the plains below, with luxuriant loungers dotted by the pool and above a raised set of cypress-studded terraces.

Wandering.

Six Degrees of Separation – Jnane Tamsna, Magic in Marrakech

Six degrees of separation is the idea that all people are six or fewer social connections away from each other. As a result, a chain of “friend of a friend” statements can be made to connect any two people in a maximum of six steps. It is also known as the six handshakes rule.

This is how I met Meryanne Loum-Martin and her husband Dr. Gary Martin the charming owners of Jnane Tamsna (Big Garden), in Marrakech. I love a story; I love connections and this meeting has blossomed into a full-blown novella!

Before I departed last November on my Moroccan 19 Day Camel Caravan, an old friend asked if I was visiting Jnane Tamsna, I wasn’t sure, my Journeys are greatly mapped out and sometimes don’t leave much time for impulsiveness in my schedule. A week in the chaos that is Marrakech had me begging for serene settings, gardens for late afternoon lunch. Amangena is always on the top of my list as is Royal Mansour and La Mamounia…when I remembered Jnane Tamsna, voila!

Arrive and meet the stunning proprietress, Meryanne, a striking natural beauty. Extending my enormous, gilded business card, I mention my bay area friends and I am quickly cloaked in a hug! Oh, you are friends with Jenny’s parents? My husband Gary was in their wedding in Berkeley!  Yes, I knew the background – I was now practically family!

Mosey through the beautiful wild gardens, and nosh at the edge of the pool on a sumptuous salad and yummy ice cream for dessert. Meryanne and Gary return to chat, she mentions she is leaving soon for Paris- Me too!  My son was planning to meet me for Thanksgiving and mounting Covid cases sent him home early. I mention I have reservations for the Alain Ducasse Pop up Dinner and the Louis Foundation exhibit – Meryanne checks calendar, and we have two dates in Paris next week! We add a delightful and delicious rainy-day lunch at Pavilion de la Reine as a guest of her friend, the owner, Jérôme Chevalier.

The story continues as I plot a month of working from Morocco before European spring travel. Three days stay at Jnane Tasmna and Meryanne consulting with one of my visiting clients. She has a design studio in the souk where one can purchase local décor, pieces which she has designed or had made by her legion of fine local craftsmen. She has an impeccable eye and amazing resources – and is frequently involved in community projects for local businesspeople.

I realized when I returned home, her book, Inside Marrakesh: Enchanting Homes and Gardens was in my library.

Jnane Tamsna blends Meryanne Loum-Martin’s splendid interior design and Gary Martin’s serene nine-acre garden. Integrating 5 houses, 5 pools and a tennis court, this unique boutique property offers 24 individual rooms, scattered about between five private villas with pools and gardens and can be reserved fully exclusive for private events. 

To describe this property as a hotel is not quite accurate, it is more like an extension of a gorgeous rambling family home. Multiple salons are connected by gardens and stunning sunny terraces. Cushy loungers, cozy corners for reading, napping or working. At six pm, an assistant wanders through the property, lighting hundreds of candles and all the fireplaces – it’s truly a magical transformation. Bubbly is served and all is well in the world at Jnane Tasmna!

Wander the paths of the botanical garden, enjoy a refreshing swim in one of the five swimming pools and savor a delicious lunch in the shade of the elegant date palms… all part of a refreshing and rejuvenating day at Jnane Tamsna. Ride a camel through the date palms, improve your back hand at tennis, cruise the medina in a sidecar …or simply lunch and lounge around the pool. My clients arrived in a horse drawn carriage for a romantic private dinner in one of the candle lit salons.

This is a very relaxed atmosphere, I could have moseyed about barefoot, but I didn’t! Located in the Palmeraie, the historic palm grove that borders Marrakech, town is not far, but the jumble of Marrakech is left behind in the quiet garden oasis. The entire property feels like a large secret garden.

The rooms vary in size and are impeccably decorated in an eclectic combination of colorful textiles, African art, all with Meryanne’s elegant boho chic sense of style. A delightful mix of Moroccan crafts with Middle Eastern furnishings and bright colorful walls, it’s beyond comfortable. Many rooms have fireplaces, most have deep soaking tubs and spacious bathrooms. It’s abundantly clear they share a deep passion and deep knowledge of Morocco and its culture.

All the 24 rooms are light and airy, and open out onto verandahs that overlook the gardens. Decorated with Meryanne’s impeccable and eclectic style, with an amazing collection of African textiles, reflecting the Martin’s wide-ranging travels and interests. Meryanne’s flawless style is present everywhere throughout the property.

Gary Martin, a respected ethnobotanist, tends the ever-changing garden, Meryanne, a French-Senegalese designer, is responsible for the interiors and the elegant meals and an abundance of ever-changing floral bouquets.

Gary, wanders through the property greeting guests, and has an impressive CV as a cultural anthropologist and ethnobotanist. A former University lecturer, he is the founder of the Global Diversity Foundation. The Foundation is a non-profit organization that supports local communities along with agricultural, biological, and cultural diversity. Gary oversees farm gardens off property which grow herbs and crops for local restaurants.

Dinners in the salon or on a private terrace make the most of sun-ripe vegetables and pungent herbs plucked directly from the organic gardens. Meals are never in one prescribed location, and the tables are beyond spectacular in settings and décor. It’s magic, truly! Every meal I’ve enjoyed has been fresh, creative, and delicious.

 Jnane Tamsna is an enchanting oasis just outside the city of Marrakech and is far from a typical hotel property in Marrakech. Creature comforts abound, casual chic style and effortless dining in stunning salon locations or amid the garden palms, poolside. Highly Recommend for short or long visit, I can envision moving in for a month or longer!