“If One Had But A Single Glance To Give To The World, One Should Gaze on Istanbul.”
Earlier posts have included locals and their trades, now for the city. Arriving in Istanbul for the first time, one is unprepared for the dazzling mosques and minarets, the sparkling Bosphorus Strait, your grade school history classes come to life: Constantinople, Byzantine architecture, the supremely elegant Sultan Palaces, Mosques with a dizzying array of blue tiles, soaring vaulted ceilings; oh, and did I mention the muezzin calling out the five time daily call to prayer. In Istanbul, many of the mosques do not use a taped prayer call; each haunting rendition is individually sung, I find it very calming and reflective. Here, finally, I was allowed to visit a mosque.
Summer is sizzling in Istanbul and the traffic and the heat can be wearing – best to plan visiting the spectacular sites on the closed day and gaze privately and at your own pace. Private tours can be arranged with some advance planning, I visited Hagia Sophia privately, an hour of blissful roaming throughout the great Ottoman basilica/mosque/museum. The massive dome soars above the ground floor, and the once plastered mosaics are being restored and are peeking out from years of hiding. The bright tiles and mosaics are still stunning after so much time.
It is worth taking the time to slowly explore the landmarks, Topkapi Palace, a former royal residence exudes splendor and grace; it houses a graceful collection of Ottoman attire, sumptuous jewels and pottery. Looking at the costumes and the magnificent jewel encrusted serving urns, swords, shields and reminds you that the Sultans were not isolated in their realms. Ancient precious Chinese, Japanese and Turkish pottery traveled either by the Silk Road or by sea. Water features within the Palace are extensive, used for washing before prayer and also as a noise diversion to protect private conversations, so much to see, so much to absorb.
A week in Istanbul barely covers the historical monuments. It is essential to cruise the Bosphorus Strait and glimpse the spectacular skyline- I found the most enchanting time was just at dusk, a two hour private cruise up the Strait, disembark and have dinner at one of the many delicious restaurants – driver can fetch and return you to hotel. The Four Seasons’ and The Cirgan Palace can be reached directly by boat, stop off and enjoy an aperitif.
Excellent restaurants, the Spice Market, exploring the Grand Bazaar, cruising to the Prince’s Islands for an afternoon horse and buggy ride, a week just barely covers all of Istanbul. Sufi dancers mesmerize audiences in a small venue, music underground in an ancient water cistern, ancient hamam, temple to scrubbing and steam – so many activities besides enjoying the historic venues.
I was reluctant to depart and I cannot wait for a return visit that will include more of Turkey.
