India The Passage-Aman- New Delhi

Those who travel with us know we are thrilled by Aman properties. It seems all the luxury properties in India have mastered the welcome ceremony, setting the stage for a remarkable visit. Act One, landing in New Delhi at 4 am, one can use a lovely welcome!

Daylight was just breaking and I could barely see the city ahead in the morning fog. Surprisingly, the streets are busy with rumbling festooned Tata trucks, bicycle riders, people walking along the road, and the sacred cows, this is India.  I discovered later there is always movement in the cities and villages and the ubiquitous cows are present everywhere and revered. India does not sleep.

Aman at dawn, one does not sense the grace and elegance upon first glimpse of the monumental stone building. I soon learn of the myriad types of stone used in the forts, palaces and hotels. Aman is imposing, very modern, yet, very calming – the perfect refinement following a long Journey.


Welcomed by a charming manager with a refreshing warm scented towel and a beautiful garland of delicate flowers, check in is immediate and efficient.

The turbaned and tunic clad gentlemen escort me quietly through the silent corridors to my suite. Steaming plunge pool on my terrace, it can wait –  the huge sunken tub is all I need to relax before napping. Surprisingly refreshed five hours later, ready to explore India. Delicious breakfast delivered and served in a beautiful wooden box, again- the level of service and the attention to detail is superb. My favorite flower, tuberose, on the bedside table has filled the room with it’s delightful fragrance.

Art- besides exceptional service, interesting architecture, the dramatic art within the hotel is gallery quality.  The six-acre property showcases a full range of conceptual art; hallways lined with paintings, shadowed alcoves are filled with beautiful golden goddesses.

A 50-meter outdoor lap pool is flanked by luxurious chaise lounges, overhead wooden fans create a gentle breeze. Lunch is served  under a shaded colonnade, a terrace begging to used for a a day of indulgent reading. Traditional carved jaali screens filter sunlight onto the terraces, subtle Indian architectural elements. 

Best rooms Aman suite 802, overlooking the monument Humayun’s Tomb. Aman Deluxe Room 803 faces the grassy expanse of Lodhi Golf Course.