San Sebastian, Bilbao & Paris, Mom & Son Adventure

Friday September 22 Paris and onward to Bilbao and San Sebastian, Spain

Hemingway Bar, Ritz Paris

Mom & Son – Paris and Spain Adventure! Once our kids leave the nest, it often seems the days of summer trips with them has concluded. Thus, I was thrilled to curate a Journey for an art enthusiast mom and her writer son – he, who has inherited her passion for art and history. His international travel has refined a sense of gourmet gastronomy. Perfect trip for these two: planning a few marvelous days in Paris and onward to Bilbao and San Sebastian. You might imagine the writer son requested a luxurious stay at The Ritz, which will include a visit to the  Hemingway Bar.

“When I dream of afterlife in heaven, the action always takes place in the Paris Ritz,” Hemingway was to say.

Paris Private And Exclusive

Versailles Private Visit Grand Apartments

Versailles: Away from the crowds, we invite you on an exclusive private tour that goes behind the walls of the Grand Apartments to explore the private lives of both Louis XV and Louis XVI.  In their personal quarters, you will visit the dining room where there was never a shortage of decadent meals and indulgences for the kings to enjoy, such as at-the-time delicacies like fresh lemons and oranges. 

Following in the actual footsteps of a king, you will then venture through the corner room with the cylinder desk of Louis XV, which is regarded as one of the most outstanding pieces of furniture in the world, the library of Louis XVI, as well as many other treasures and fascinating details that can be lauded as a masterpiece in interior design.

Day Two  Giverny/Roche Guyon/Auvers 

Practically walk through a Monet painting at his home and gardens in Giverny. Located just
50 miles outside of Paris, the tranquility that can be found in his serene paintings. In the late 19th century, the Impressionist painter was aboard a train when he discovered the village of Giverny and was immediately captured by its charm. Shortly after, he purchased a home and cultivated the gardens that would soon be the landscapes to some of his most famous pieces. Today it remains a museum honoring the life of this great talent, and although there are no actual canvases on-site, during the spring and summer months when the garden is in full bloom, you get to experience the real-life canvas, looking through the eyes of Monet. 

Giverny. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Giverny. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Musee Des Impressionnismes Giverny  The museum is dedicated to the Impressionist movement in the broad sense of the term, in France and abroad. It also intends to explore its infancy and aesthetic consequences it has trained since the Second World War and into contemporary art.

Day Three van Gogh  La Maison van Gogh -Auvers Sur Oise

The Ravoux Inn is situated in the heart of Auvers-sur-Oise, a village 30 kilometers to the north of Paris, and was the last home Vincent van Gogh. During the 37 years of his short
life van Gogh had no fewer than 37 other abodes in the Netherlands, Belgium, England and France.

The site is a listed French historic monuments and the only place lived in by van Gogh still surviving in its original state. The attic rooms of Ravoux Inn are still redolent of the spirit of
the painter. Room 5 was his; it is where suddenly we are aware that Van Gogh’s illustrious destiny is tempered by intimacy and humility. The House of Van Gogh is what is known in French as a lieu de mémoire, a place of historic association, yet it is still a living place. Just as much as in 1890, the restaurant welcomes guests from all over the world, recreating the convivial ambience of artists’ cafés of bygone days. Vincent van Gogh spent a mere seventy days in Auvers-sur-Oise. Yet he was astonishingly prolific in this short time: the picturesque location and its inhabitants and surrounding countryside inspired him to paint more than seventy pictures.

Maria Christina Hotel San Sebastian

Bilbao. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Henry Moore. Photo credit Susan Hyatt

Bilbao – Visit the Guggenheim Museum, the city center, Old Quarter, Norman Foster subway and the new architecture by the riverbed.

Day Two – Exclusive Visit Mutriku and a Secret Art Gallery. The Basque way of life invites guests to understand local life in Mutriku. A charming fishing town where you will get the feel of  the typical life of a Basque sea related life. Walk through cobbled streets and hear stories of their whale hunters, sea captains, counts, princess in towers and even pirates, you will end up sitting in the oldest fish auction machine bidding for the days catch!

Mutriku and a Secret Art Gallery. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Visit to a Secret gallery and tour with the owner. Several exhibitions of modern art are exhibited in this exclusive gallery. Bilbao is a surprise for many when they first arrive. No one expects such art and architecture apart from the Guggenheim. An art gallery which will also knock you off your feet, we hope! This gallery was an amazing surprise and loved by the clients who texted photos of the superb collection. We were thrilled to receive photo texts from these two almost every day, sharing their meals, art installations and vistas.  

Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Enjoy a stroll through the cobblestone streets and then transfer to famed Three Michelin Star Restaurant Azurmendi for a leisurely lunch. This text arrived with food photos and a note: Tell Gwen we are taking three hours for this feast! 

San Sebastian. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Any trip to Spain should always include a stop in San Sebastian – they happened to be visiting during the San Sebastian International Film Festival, a time when the city shines bright with glamour and pride and especially this year, as the festival was celebrating its 65th anniversary with the same exuberance and enthusiasm felt at their debut on September 21st 1953. During all these years the list of personalities and celebrities attending the festival and staying at the five star Hotel Maria Cristina is extensive.

The drive to San Sebastian from Bilbao should include a hike through the etherial Oma Forest. Walk the forest and admire Ibarrola’s piece of natural art.

Onward to the famed hotel Maria Christina. Since the hotel opened in 1912 the 136-room Hotel Maria Cristina has been intimately linked to the history and cultural life of San Sebastian. In the late 19th century the seaside town on the southern point of the Bay of Biscay became a favorite destination for royalty and aristocrats who came to enjoy the sunshine and newly recognized therapeutic properties of sea bathing. A traditional afternoon stroll along the boardwalk offered an opportunity to see and be seen while the many cafés and open-air terraces were filled with high society.

San Sebastian has passed from being a sleepy fishing village into a thriving cosmopolitan town offering luxurious, modern facilities to meet the demands of its discerning guests.

Serendipitously this urban blossoming occurred at the height of the Belle Époque era, and today the majority of buildings flanking the famed La Concha beach, including the city hall, Victoria Eugenia Theater and the Hotel Maria Cristina, are constructed in this style. The majestic design of the hotel by architect Charles Mewes, the man responsible for the Ritz in Madrid and Paris, combined with the property’s enviable river setting and sea views, resulted in it immediately becoming the favored accommodation for international high society.

In July 1912 the hotel’s namesake, Spain’s regent Maria Cristina, was the first person to cross the threshold. We can certainly add to the illustrious list with the names of our dear clients!

San Sebastian Dining Mirador de Ulía Restaurant

Our pick of the regions’ museums, small beach communities and more importantly, long lunches! As all foodies are aware, one of the Basque Country’s main specialties is the culinary culture, as San Sebastian possess the highest concentration of Michelin Stars in the world – we’ve reserved a grand adventure of Michelin star restaurants every day, interspersed with a few Pintox’ stops to balance the rich food. San Sebastian however is a marvelous walking town to balance the fine dining activities!

A quick look at the touring opportunities in San Sebastian, before we head back to Bilbao for – yes, more fine dining and art.

First of all, we recommend visiting the old town “la parte vieja”, which is a 5 minute walk from the Hotel, here you discover historical monuments including the church of Santa Maria or La Plaza de la Constitución. Plan the walk after your Michelin Star lunch!

We cannot forget the Pintxo Experience, a fun and delicious local traditional not to be missed in the Old Town. ‘Barhopping’ for tapas and sips, meeting locals and tasting tiny bites of local specialties. Jamón ibérico, is heavenly delicious, don’t be temped to toss a leg into your suitcase at the airport, Custom’s agents will confiscate for their dining pleasure!

There are also a lot of walking itineraries, such as visiting the Monte Urgull, walking along the Paseo De La Concha or even taking the old funicular that will take you to the top of Monte Igueldo, which offers spectacular views over the bay of San Sebastian.

Museums in San Sebastian, an interesting variety; there is the San Telmo Museum and the new international cultural center called the Tanakalera in San Sebastian, the Balenciaga Museum in Getaria which is a 25 minute drive from the hotel or the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao which is a 1 hr. drive from the hotel.

San Sebastian. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Visiting neighboring coastal towns is another worthy activity to include, we would suggest the following towns: Hondarribia, Zarautz, Getaria and Zumaia which are all within a 35-minute drive from the hotel.

San Sebastian is also very close to the French Basque Country. Here Biarritz, Saint Jean de Luz, Hendaye and Bayonne are a great choice for leisurely walks and chic shopping.

Bilbao. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Also, an interesting area to add to your itinerary if you indulge in vino is La Rioja (1hr 45min drive), where you can taste some of the most famous and exquisite wines in the world. Recommend a variety of experiences at the Marques de Riscal Estate with its wine cellars, vineyards, hotel & spa, it is one of the oldest and most quality oriented in this area. During the same trip, it could be very interesting visiting Dinastía Vivanco Wine Museum and make a tour of its winery located in the village of Briones.

Are your Spanish cooking skills in need of a brush up? We can organize classes in the Mimo San Sebastian Cooking School, http://sansebastian.mimofood.com/en , a beautiful facility located right in the hotel.  Designed specifically for cooking enthusiasts, the facility offers a range of hands on classes, wine tastings and pintxo experiences.

Return to Paris for one last day to stay at Le Reserve, one of our favorite petite hotels. Mid-way between Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne, a stone’s throw from the Champs-Elysées, where the heart of Paris beats. Nestled in a peaceful location, slightly set back from the world’s most beautiful avenue, La Réserve Paris – Hotel and Spa overlooks the Grand Palais, the Eiffel Tower, the Pantheon and the Concorde obelisk. Just in front, a majestic curtain of trees preserves the intimacy of this place, like an echo of the Elysée gardens nearby.

Michel Reybier’s highly distinctive urban mansion has all the elegance of a 19th century private apartment, where ultra-personalized services can be enjoyed in complete simplicity and discretion.

Tempt your kids with an Escape!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m Thinking Summer in San Sebastian

Barcelona, as a starter course, then mosey to the coast of San Sebastian. Traveling with teenagers who might not savor the top foodie restaurants – we have the ultimate solution. Exhaust them with all day activities and you head out at 10 pm for divinely decadent gastronomy.

A sampling: arrive airport and transfer to your private yacht and sail to San Sebastian, heading East, passing the fabulous rock formations along the coast of Sokoa, arrive in front of the bay of Saint Jean de Luz, once the Corsair’s capital of the Basque Country. Entering La Concha bay from the ocean will give you a totally different perspective of San Sebastian, the same one that the ancient fishermen had, every time they returned home after a glorious fresh fish catch! Private transfer to Hotel Maria Cristina.san seb sailingOnce freshened up, indulge in an Insider’s Private Pintxos Tour in San Sebastian. To every resident of San Sebastian, the terms “pintxos” conjures up images of mouth-watering delicacies, from simple eats to highly elaborate haute cuisine creations. Such is the fervor of the residents of San Sebastian for its gastronomy and pintxos. Every year the city stages competitions in which all the bars seek to create the tastiest, most original pintxos. Winners proudly proclaim their plaques outside their doors, and many establishments are renowned for one dish above all others.

With almost one hundred bars to choose from, knowing where to go and what to order only comes with experience and local knowledge. Your host for the evening has plenty of both, and together you can enjoy an evening of fine food and good company. It’s a must-do experience in San Sebastian.

orio_restaurante_pintxos_gastronomia_vasca Next morning, for the active members of the family, enjoy a mountain biking experience in the Basque countryside outside San Sebastian. For those who prefer to take it easy, we can arrange a stroll through the town, with a focus on specialty stores, local markets and shops.

After a quick turnaround for the bikers, it’s time to get together and indulge further with the Basque Gastronomy. A Special Basque Experience – Private Cooking Class in a Gastronomic Society. Explore Basque cuisine, in a venue usually closed to outsiders. Basque men gather at sociedades gastronómicas to cook, eat, drink, sing, and socialize. (Until recently, women were excluded.) These clubs have nurtured the Basque culinary tradition, resulting in the current proliferation of top restaurants in and around San Sebastian. It is estimated that over 160 sociedades gastronómicas co-exist and we offer exclusive private access to the most prestigious gastronomic society of them all.

Your host and instructor is a young, yet very accomplished chef working is his native city. He is often called upon to cook lunches and dinners for San Sebastian’s elite. The mayor is frequently in touch requesting that he prepare meals for his distinguished guests. You will spend the morning cooking traditional dishes and discussing Basque cuisine. Once prepared, you will enjoy the fruits of your labor for lunch accompanied by local wines in the society’s very egalitarian and modest dining area.

Next morning, either spend the morning at leisure or with our guide visiting the sights of the city you haven’t seen yet OR we recommend the following for all the family… at the end of which an authentic Basque experience awaits you.

Hiking the Basque coastline. This wonderfully inviting hike takes you from the heart of San Sebastian to the fishing village of Pasajes de San Juan. As you climb up the Monte Ulia overlooking the city, the views of the city and its spectacular location become more and more glorious. Behind the beautiful beaches and the historic center of San Sebastian, you’ll be able to appreciate the mountainous landscape of the Basque Country that many talk about, but few are able to enjoy first hand.

From the stunning vistas of the city below and mountains on the horizon, you’ll then turn away from the city and follow a picturesque route that hugs the rugged coastline and which remains surprisingly unspoiled. You’ll pass a striking area of rocky cliffs inhabited by seagulls, your guide will point out medieval ruins and the remnants of defense posts that were carved out of the rock during the War of Spanish succession in the 19th century. After a little over 3 miles, you’ll come to La Plata Lighthouse, named by the sailors who were struck by its silver tone when viewed from the sea. Head down into Pasajes de San Pedro, a large fishing harbor and where your hike finishes. You can either take a taxi back to San Sebastian with your guide or take the launch across the short stretch of water to Pasajes de San Juan and enjoy a fine lunch with views overlooking the water. This village boasts a colorful cluster of 18th- and 19th-century astride the channel to the sea. The village boasts history too; General Lafayette set out from here to aid the American Revolution and Victor Hugo spent the summer of 1843 here writing his Voyage aux Pyrenees. Highly recommended and much more than just a good walk.

In the afternoon, why not head to the beach, it’ll be hot and la Concha beach is the perfect spot to hit the waves in San Sebastian.

Surfing – Apart from having one of the most beautiful bays in the world, Bahía de la Concha, the city has a love affair with surfing and tons of infrastructures for the visiting surfer, professional, amateur or beginner.

Kayaking – head out into the Bay of Biscay for some kayaking, revel on a warm sunny day and with your English speaking guide, you can get your arms in action and enjoy the views of San Sebastian from the water.

Stand up Paddle – the latest craze and you can do it here too.

This evening, head out for Pintxos as a family or head to another of the Europe’s best restaurants….

A whole range of options for the rest of the week:

  • Excursion to Bilbao including a Private tour of the Guggenheim Museum
  • Full Day Customized Wine Tour of La Rioja. Head to La Rioja’s traditional wine capital Haro. Your first winery of the day is one of the historical wineries in Rioja, dating back to the second half of the nineteenth century. It has remained in the same family throughout many generations with Don Rafael Lopez de Heredia and his sons and daughters currently steering it successfully into the 21st century. Astonishingly, as you will see, the family absolutely insists on and firmly believes in employing traditional methods in all facets of the wine making, including their very own in-house cobblers or barrel makers – a sight to behold! Indeed, tradition oozes from every nook and cranny here, very unique in every way. And who’s to blame them, their trademark wine, the famous Viña Tondonia, has an avid base not only in Spain but worldwide, and it remains one of the few wineries still producing aged white wines. The tour takes you through a labyrinth of underground caves excavated in the rock, home to more than 15000 oak barrels used for aging their wines. A fascinating visit which culminates in the stunning new reception area, where you can enjoy a short tasting of two of its most emblematic wines.
  • Following the Lopez de Heredia, it is time for a complete contrast and an opportunity for you to experience contemporary trends in La Rioja, not just in wine making but also architectonically. You will continue to one of Spain’s most modern and innovative wineries, Ysios. Designed by the Spanish architect, Santiago de Calatrava, the winery takes the form of an extraordinary, curving and rippling shape, not untypical of Calatrava’s other projects but viewed in the reflection of the water moat that runs astride it, one can see the shape of six barrels sitting against the backdrop of the wavy Cantabrian mountains.

Your guide will take you though all the processes including the carefully monitored stainless steel tanks whose temperature is controlled by a constant stream of water bathing the exterior of each. As for the end product, the wine, judge for yourself in the magnificent tasting room overlooking the vineyards.

Following Ysios, it is time for lunch in either one of the nearby traditional restaurants, or at the restaurant at the other masterpiece of architecture; Frank Gehry’s newly designed Marques de Riscal winery.

After lunch, enjoy a short stroll around Laguardia, one of the most perfectly preserved medieval villages in Spain, a medieval hill hamlet (called “villa” in Spanish), reminiscent of Tuscan hilltop villages. It is surrounded by an ancient wall, and has a delightful jumble of cobbleston streets lined with “Tabernas”, wine shops, palaces, and cafes.

It is also home to the third and final winery visit of the day at the Bodegas El Fabulista de Laguardia, a subterranean wine cellar six meters beneath the historic home of Félix María Sánchez Samaniego, the famous Spanish fable writer.

And at times, you’ll think the El Fabulista is part of a fable. Its two large vats in the entrance are not for decoration. It is here that every year, all the grape harvest is trodden and crushed under feet. Heading down the narrow stairs underground, visit the caves used for fermentation and processing of the wine. Finally, enjoy a final tasting of the young reds produced here, in the good company of one of the family owners or the winery manager.

  • Full Day Excursion to Biarritz. After breakfast your guide/driver will meet you at your hotel and together will discover the wonderful Basque coast. You may head to Biarritz and discover the French Basque area just across the border. Biarritz, the “king of beaches and the beach of kings”, ever since Eugenie de Montijo and her husband Napoleon III made it the favorite resort of the European aristocracy. The most diverse of architectural styles combine here, much in the same way as quiet families mingle with festive surfers on the beaches. Because surfing, which hit the Basque coast in 1956 with an incredibly rejuvenating effect, rapidly became a tradition here in its own right, on level terms with the fandango (a dance) or the sardinade (a delicacy).

You may continue to Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Like in Biarritz, fishing is a thriving tradition. Obviously, sailors no longer hunt whales or sail to Newfoundland, but the ports are still full of color and activity.  Saint-Jean-de-Luz has some beautiful architectural pieces, notably the Maison Louis XIV and the Maison de l’Infante, which provide a reminder of the period spent by the Sun King in the town when he married Maria-Theresa, the Spanish Infanta in 1660. And to find out more about the Basque world (from the pelota game to linen craft via history and legends), just go to the Eco-museum of Basque Tradition.

On your way back to the Spanish border, you will stop in Hondarribia. Wander through Hondarribia’s old town, visiting the restored sixteenth century gothic church of Santa María de la Asunción and the 10th century castle, now a parador.

  • Private Touring of the Basque Coastline including Getaria &/or a Txacoli Winery. This can be modified to make it much more “family friendly”. Focus on authentic experiences but to conclude the trip, finish in a similar fashion the way you started (opt for sailing transfer to San Sebastian) and actually sail from San Sebastian to Getaria.

Last, but by no means least, although closed to the public, we are able to set up a private visit to Chillida-leku, the open-air museum a few miles south of San Sebastián. Here, views the works of one the Basque Country’s most famous sons, Eduardo Chillida.views of donosti