San Sebastian, Bilbao & Paris, Mom & Son Adventure

Friday September 22 Paris and onward to Bilbao and San Sebastian, Spain

Hemingway Bar, Ritz Paris

Mom & Son – Paris and Spain Adventure! Once our kids leave the nest, it often seems the days of summer trips with them has concluded. Thus, I was thrilled to curate a Journey for an art enthusiast mom and her writer son – he, who has inherited her passion for art and history. His international travel has refined a sense of gourmet gastronomy. Perfect trip for these two: planning a few marvelous days in Paris and onward to Bilbao and San Sebastian. You might imagine the writer son requested a luxurious stay at The Ritz, which will include a visit to the  Hemingway Bar.

“When I dream of afterlife in heaven, the action always takes place in the Paris Ritz,” Hemingway was to say.

Paris Private And Exclusive

Versailles Private Visit Grand Apartments

Versailles: Away from the crowds, we invite you on an exclusive private tour that goes behind the walls of the Grand Apartments to explore the private lives of both Louis XV and Louis XVI.  In their personal quarters, you will visit the dining room where there was never a shortage of decadent meals and indulgences for the kings to enjoy, such as at-the-time delicacies like fresh lemons and oranges. 

Following in the actual footsteps of a king, you will then venture through the corner room with the cylinder desk of Louis XV, which is regarded as one of the most outstanding pieces of furniture in the world, the library of Louis XVI, as well as many other treasures and fascinating details that can be lauded as a masterpiece in interior design.

Day Two  Giverny/Roche Guyon/Auvers 

Practically walk through a Monet painting at his home and gardens in Giverny. Located just
50 miles outside of Paris, the tranquility that can be found in his serene paintings. In the late 19th century, the Impressionist painter was aboard a train when he discovered the village of Giverny and was immediately captured by its charm. Shortly after, he purchased a home and cultivated the gardens that would soon be the landscapes to some of his most famous pieces. Today it remains a museum honoring the life of this great talent, and although there are no actual canvases on-site, during the spring and summer months when the garden is in full bloom, you get to experience the real-life canvas, looking through the eyes of Monet. 

Giverny. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Giverny. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Musee Des Impressionnismes Giverny  The museum is dedicated to the Impressionist movement in the broad sense of the term, in France and abroad. It also intends to explore its infancy and aesthetic consequences it has trained since the Second World War and into contemporary art.

Day Three van Gogh  La Maison van Gogh -Auvers Sur Oise

The Ravoux Inn is situated in the heart of Auvers-sur-Oise, a village 30 kilometers to the north of Paris, and was the last home Vincent van Gogh. During the 37 years of his short
life van Gogh had no fewer than 37 other abodes in the Netherlands, Belgium, England and France.

The site is a listed French historic monuments and the only place lived in by van Gogh still surviving in its original state. The attic rooms of Ravoux Inn are still redolent of the spirit of
the painter. Room 5 was his; it is where suddenly we are aware that Van Gogh’s illustrious destiny is tempered by intimacy and humility. The House of Van Gogh is what is known in French as a lieu de mémoire, a place of historic association, yet it is still a living place. Just as much as in 1890, the restaurant welcomes guests from all over the world, recreating the convivial ambience of artists’ cafés of bygone days. Vincent van Gogh spent a mere seventy days in Auvers-sur-Oise. Yet he was astonishingly prolific in this short time: the picturesque location and its inhabitants and surrounding countryside inspired him to paint more than seventy pictures.

Maria Christina Hotel San Sebastian

Bilbao. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Henry Moore. Photo credit Susan Hyatt

Bilbao – Visit the Guggenheim Museum, the city center, Old Quarter, Norman Foster subway and the new architecture by the riverbed.

Day Two – Exclusive Visit Mutriku and a Secret Art Gallery. The Basque way of life invites guests to understand local life in Mutriku. A charming fishing town where you will get the feel of  the typical life of a Basque sea related life. Walk through cobbled streets and hear stories of their whale hunters, sea captains, counts, princess in towers and even pirates, you will end up sitting in the oldest fish auction machine bidding for the days catch!

Mutriku and a Secret Art Gallery. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Visit to a Secret gallery and tour with the owner. Several exhibitions of modern art are exhibited in this exclusive gallery. Bilbao is a surprise for many when they first arrive. No one expects such art and architecture apart from the Guggenheim. An art gallery which will also knock you off your feet, we hope! This gallery was an amazing surprise and loved by the clients who texted photos of the superb collection. We were thrilled to receive photo texts from these two almost every day, sharing their meals, art installations and vistas.  

Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Enjoy a stroll through the cobblestone streets and then transfer to famed Three Michelin Star Restaurant Azurmendi for a leisurely lunch. This text arrived with food photos and a note: Tell Gwen we are taking three hours for this feast! 

San Sebastian. Photo Credit Susan Hyatt

Any trip to Spain should always include a stop in San Sebastian – they happened to be visiting during the San Sebastian International Film Festival, a time when the city shines bright with glamour and pride and especially this year, as the festival was celebrating its 65th anniversary with the same exuberance and enthusiasm felt at their debut on September 21st 1953. During all these years the list of personalities and celebrities attending the festival and staying at the five star Hotel Maria Cristina is extensive.

The drive to San Sebastian from Bilbao should include a hike through the etherial Oma Forest. Walk the forest and admire Ibarrola’s piece of natural art.

Onward to the famed hotel Maria Christina. Since the hotel opened in 1912 the 136-room Hotel Maria Cristina has been intimately linked to the history and cultural life of San Sebastian. In the late 19th century the seaside town on the southern point of the Bay of Biscay became a favorite destination for royalty and aristocrats who came to enjoy the sunshine and newly recognized therapeutic properties of sea bathing. A traditional afternoon stroll along the boardwalk offered an opportunity to see and be seen while the many cafés and open-air terraces were filled with high society.

San Sebastian has passed from being a sleepy fishing village into a thriving cosmopolitan town offering luxurious, modern facilities to meet the demands of its discerning guests.

Serendipitously this urban blossoming occurred at the height of the Belle Époque era, and today the majority of buildings flanking the famed La Concha beach, including the city hall, Victoria Eugenia Theater and the Hotel Maria Cristina, are constructed in this style. The majestic design of the hotel by architect Charles Mewes, the man responsible for the Ritz in Madrid and Paris, combined with the property’s enviable river setting and sea views, resulted in it immediately becoming the favored accommodation for international high society.

In July 1912 the hotel’s namesake, Spain’s regent Maria Cristina, was the first person to cross the threshold. We can certainly add to the illustrious list with the names of our dear clients!

San Sebastian Dining Mirador de Ulía Restaurant

Our pick of the regions’ museums, small beach communities and more importantly, long lunches! As all foodies are aware, one of the Basque Country’s main specialties is the culinary culture, as San Sebastian possess the highest concentration of Michelin Stars in the world – we’ve reserved a grand adventure of Michelin star restaurants every day, interspersed with a few Pintox’ stops to balance the rich food. San Sebastian however is a marvelous walking town to balance the fine dining activities!

A quick look at the touring opportunities in San Sebastian, before we head back to Bilbao for – yes, more fine dining and art.

First of all, we recommend visiting the old town “la parte vieja”, which is a 5 minute walk from the Hotel, here you discover historical monuments including the church of Santa Maria or La Plaza de la Constitución. Plan the walk after your Michelin Star lunch!

We cannot forget the Pintxo Experience, a fun and delicious local traditional not to be missed in the Old Town. ‘Barhopping’ for tapas and sips, meeting locals and tasting tiny bites of local specialties. Jamón ibérico, is heavenly delicious, don’t be temped to toss a leg into your suitcase at the airport, Custom’s agents will confiscate for their dining pleasure!

There are also a lot of walking itineraries, such as visiting the Monte Urgull, walking along the Paseo De La Concha or even taking the old funicular that will take you to the top of Monte Igueldo, which offers spectacular views over the bay of San Sebastian.

Museums in San Sebastian, an interesting variety; there is the San Telmo Museum and the new international cultural center called the Tanakalera in San Sebastian, the Balenciaga Museum in Getaria which is a 25 minute drive from the hotel or the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao which is a 1 hr. drive from the hotel.

San Sebastian. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Visiting neighboring coastal towns is another worthy activity to include, we would suggest the following towns: Hondarribia, Zarautz, Getaria and Zumaia which are all within a 35-minute drive from the hotel.

San Sebastian is also very close to the French Basque Country. Here Biarritz, Saint Jean de Luz, Hendaye and Bayonne are a great choice for leisurely walks and chic shopping.

Bilbao. Photo credit Susan Hyatt.

Also, an interesting area to add to your itinerary if you indulge in vino is La Rioja (1hr 45min drive), where you can taste some of the most famous and exquisite wines in the world. Recommend a variety of experiences at the Marques de Riscal Estate with its wine cellars, vineyards, hotel & spa, it is one of the oldest and most quality oriented in this area. During the same trip, it could be very interesting visiting Dinastía Vivanco Wine Museum and make a tour of its winery located in the village of Briones.

Are your Spanish cooking skills in need of a brush up? We can organize classes in the Mimo San Sebastian Cooking School, http://sansebastian.mimofood.com/en , a beautiful facility located right in the hotel.  Designed specifically for cooking enthusiasts, the facility offers a range of hands on classes, wine tastings and pintxo experiences.

Return to Paris for one last day to stay at Le Reserve, one of our favorite petite hotels. Mid-way between Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne, a stone’s throw from the Champs-Elysées, where the heart of Paris beats. Nestled in a peaceful location, slightly set back from the world’s most beautiful avenue, La Réserve Paris – Hotel and Spa overlooks the Grand Palais, the Eiffel Tower, the Pantheon and the Concorde obelisk. Just in front, a majestic curtain of trees preserves the intimacy of this place, like an echo of the Elysée gardens nearby.

Michel Reybier’s highly distinctive urban mansion has all the elegance of a 19th century private apartment, where ultra-personalized services can be enjoyed in complete simplicity and discretion.

Tempt your kids with an Escape!

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Réserve, Paris

Traditional Parisian Opulence is practiced at La Réserve on Avenue Gabriel, a block from the Champs-Elysées, with encompassing grand views of the Eiffel Tower and the Grand Palais. An admitted Francophile, it’s natural for me to swoon over palatial Parisian hotels. However, my ‘there is a perfect hotel for each traveler’ philosophy allows me to recognize a sophisticated dramatic property and perhaps a less decorated, yet still charming Parisian hotel, discovering the perfect property for each and every client…

La Réserve Paris

Originally constructed in this Haussmann style neighborhood, in 1854 for Charles de Mornay, the half brother of Napoleon III, the boutique property is a sumptuous pleaser in every way. The last owner, Pierre Cardin may have set the tone, however the inspired renovation by Jacques Garcia is a vision of a particular period and ambience. Its origins as a home truly set the mood, if your home is a dramatic Parisian Salon and includes an indoor pool and spa. On a winter day, I would suggest a stay in day, tote an engrossing book and mosey from the library to a decadent lunch in the charming restaurant Le Gabriel, scoot back to the roaring fire in the main salon or the library. An afternoon espresso, the French have incorporated massive amounts of coffee into their lifestyle, will liven you up for a short saunter to the spa for a traditional hamam and deep tissue massage before cocktails and dinner! A delectable decadent, off the grid day, as one might have enjoyed in another era, do indulge.

Soaking tub La Reserve Paris

The details in the 26 suites and 14 rooms are authentic and mesmerizing: bold colors, acres of fine silk drape the windows and in some rooms, the walls. A dramatic palette of white, gold and black and red in many of the suites and rooms instill a restful ambience. I felt cocooned in my massive suite – velvet covered sofas, a sleek glass bar outfitted with fine crystal and complimentary drinks and snacks, triple glass floor to ceiling windows  swathed by silk or heavy velvet drapes, ensure the city noise remains outside, layers of elegance. The bathrooms are worthy of their own photo shoot, mountains of white and grey Carerra marble covers the floor, the vanities and the massive soaking tubs – tubs to die for. Stand alone showers with several shower heads, really these massive sized bathrooms could host a small group! If you prefer a lighter touch, say grey or pale champagne tones, do state a room preference, as not everyone loves decadent dark tones. The rooms all glow and are warm and inviting.

I should mention the very comfortable beds; the mattress is topped with feathers and down pillows, and all covered with custom Italian Quagliotti linens. At turn down, besides slippers, a puffy floor mat is placed next to the side of your bed. I never knew I needed a pillowed mat, but now I know, a very special touch. Modern technology has been combined with the old world glamour. Use the Ipad to control all conveniences or a simple toggle switch to turn off the lighting; I love less complication in shutting off lighting in a hotel. Another mention, my jumble of travel cosmetics sprawled out on any surface with the best light, were tidily organized when I went out; however, one very thoughtful staff person upgraded my makeup remover with a new bottle from the spa, La Roche-Posay micellar water, from what I’ve been told, it is the latest chic product..details do matter!

La Réserve Paris bedroom

The public rooms are ornate and exquisitely decorated in layers of traditional French fabrics and antiques. Intimate in scale, the sumptuous dark wood and book lined library and the smoking/cigar bar are available only to hotel guests. A fireplace burns in the library and in front of a petite table for two adjacent to the stunning dining room. Summer dining can be enjoyed alfresco on the terrace off the breakfast room and library. Indoor dining is intimate and once seated in the oversize cushioned chairs, one feels compelled to tarry.  Tables are arranged salon style with overstuffed sofas and exquisitely upholstered neoclassic bergere chairs, tres inviitng. The snug bar sparkles at night, although it’s not large enough to host many outsiders, small tables are surrounded by comfy chairs, this is not a crowded stand up bar scene. Perfect for hotel guests to savor fine wines and traditional cocktails, lingering encouraged!

Le Bar La Réserve Paris

Library, La Réserve Paris

Le Grande Salon La Réserve Paris

Chef Jérôme Banctel

I’ve published my brief interview with the charming and cuisine passionate Chef Jérôme Banctel who helms the two Michelin Stars Restaurant Le Gabriel. Extraordinary imaginative dishes, combined with delicate technique, the menu offers authentic French dining displaying the particular flair of the chef. Allow hours to savor lunch or dinner; this is an experience not to be rushed. Restaurant Le Gabriel is romantic and elegant adorned in black lacquered furnishings, delicate gold trimmed walls and mirrors – you will feel as if you have stepped into a romantic French film. http://www.gwenbooks.com/2017/01/executive-chef-jerome-banctel-la-reserve-travel-tales/

Also on property is La Pagode de Cos with a spice-route themed menu. In tribute to Cos d’Estournel, Second Grand cru classé, owned by hotel proprietor Michel Reybier, La Pagode de Cos invites you to on a culinary spice route journey. Since its beginnings, Cos d’Estournel wine surpassed the ratings of the most prestigious vintages and was exported as far afield as India. Its founder, Louis Gaspard d’Estournel became the “Maharaja of Saint-Estèphe” and to celebrate his far-off conquests, he had exotic pagodas built over his cellars.

There’s more! Le Réserve Spa is a bold statement in glossy red detail, located downstairs in a whisper quiet environment. Forget weather, stress, fatigue and even what time it is… let go and recharge your batteries with vital energy in an intimate hushed haven, sheltered from the hustle and bustle outside.

Set around the 16-meter indoor pool are just three treatment rooms, a fitness area with a sports coach, creating a peaceful atmosphere where one is relieved of pressure and can succumb to a complete disconnect from the daily grind. Men are not forgotten, with a range of services indispensable to modern-day gentlemen.

Le Spa La Réserve Paris

La Réserve Paris spa offers Nescens-Swiss anti-aging science cosmetic products. An oasis of calm and serenity awaits you in the Spa.

La Réserve Library Paris

La Réserve Paris

La Réserve Paris

Heavenly corner at Le Gabriel – La Réserve Paris

Our clients are spoiled, upgraded, and are repeat guests, what else would you need to know?

My French is sorely lacking, however I can advise you Oui, La Reserve, J’adore!